Re: No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral zone )

Kevin Boddicker <trumanst@...>

I used UV Smooth Prime from Poly Fiber. It is a catalyzed water born
primer applied with a foam roller. I followed with their epoxy primer
and top coated with Aerothane.
The foam roller fills "most" of the pinholes due to the pressure of
the rolling process.
It requires six coats, as per the directions. Sands very very
smoothly with 320 grit, if you get on it in several days. After a
week or so the primer gets too hard to knock down with 320 grit. So
180 will knock it down, and the 320 will smooth it up.
The most important thing is to stay with one manufacturer all the way
Conversations with the Poly Fiber factory also told me to let the
epoxy primer cure for at least 48 hours. If not cured the "gas" from
the primer might bubble under the Aerothane.
If longer than 48 hours the epoxy primer may need to be lightly
scuffed before the Aerothane is applied.
My paint was applied in the fall of 04. So far so good.
Hope this helps
Kevin Boddicker
Tri Q 200 N7868B 45.7 hours
Luana, IA.

On Feb 25, 2007, at 2:11 PM, viggenbuilder2 wrote:

Hi All,
I had dealt with all the bumps that had been there on the tail cone
before Xmas, so after the cold spell began to lift back in mid Jan, I
looked to get things ready to start priming.
I started sanding back, and noticed some more bumps had appeared. So I
picked at these and bingo, before I knew it I had stripped about 2 sq
feet of paint without any adhesion at all.
So with Mike D's advice ringing in my head, I decided enough was
and set to work to strip it all off the tail cone. This is now done,
and I have started to refill with epoxy filler and things are at last
seemingly better. At least I can now see the substrate and know that
the filler will be good.
Now the interesting part is that all the paint seemed to strip from a
neutral zone (To pinch a term from Star Trek), which as it came off in
sheets or strips, the paint was black on the back, but the black layer
was still on the surface it had come off of. So the black layer had
separated causing the lack of adherance. Looking at the paint strips,
the black on the back was firmly adhered to the paint. The black layer
on the tail cone was also firmly attached. So it was the black layer
that had "split"! Has anybody else had this happen ? Is this relate to
damp conditions?
This has caused me to wonder what to do with regard to the
I am using epoxy primer, and two pack poly top coat, which is an
effective UV barrier, so do I need to reapply the black layer with the
possible further problem of lack of adhesion ? Do you guys still use
the black UV layer, or have you all moved on from it now ?

Richard Thomson
Tri Q G-BMFN 368 hours old.

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