Re: Diesel Q1, update, and propeller question.

Seeadler18 <marko.rocznik@...>

Yep - it looks like the Q-performance list is dead. I never liked the idea to splitting plan-build and advanced Qs - since almost everybody subscribed to both and it's just more effort to check the two user groups instead of one.


--- In, Isaksson Roger <scratchdeeper@...> wrote:

If you want performance you must have an engine

From: Phil Lankford <britmcman@...>
To: "" <>
Sent: Tue, April 13, 2010 11:43:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Diesel Q1, update, and propeller question.

Is the Q-Performance List dead? Should I begin to post all my
alternate engine and plane mods questions and discussions here on the

Phil Lankford

On Apr 13, 2010, at 10:08 AM, Mike Perry <dmperry1012@> wrote:


I think you have two different planes confused. Jon Finley used to fly
a Quickie with a VW; he now flies a Q2 with a Subaru and a Paul
Lipps prop.

On the three angle valve job and thermal coatings: I'm not sure you
much hp benefit at the rpms we usually run (~3200 in the VW). The
thermal coating does make cooling easier (coat the pistons also and
oil runs cooler). The Techline website currently shows a slight
decrease in power below ~4500 rpm; when I looked last year they
showed a
slight increase, but it can't be more than +/- 1-2% at that rpm range.
More than 5% is likely in the 6000 rpm range. I can't find a graph
right now but memory says most of the benefit from 3 angle valve jobs
and other intake mods comes in at 4000 rpm.

More discussion on this probably belongs on the VW list?


Isaksson Roger wrote:

Hi Jon

Thanks, yes I think I will go the way you suggest, get the IVO on it
and get ballpark figures, the Ellipse is definitely an efficient
design, and especially as I don't have much of HP in my project to
start up with, I am keen to have as efficint prop as ever possible.
Once I have my ballpark figure, I can submit it to Paul Lipps. I
am a
long way from there though.

One thing you might consider to get more oomp in your engine to get
more oomp out of it, but not having to machine work too much, is
to do
a small program.

You can let the engine stay in your plane, you only need to take out
the top part. ( I am assuming you have a VW) head, cylinders and

In most VW Hot rod books, there are pictures and diagrams how you
improve the flow of your head.

If you take a head and hold it in your hand, looking at the
side of your engine, you should se the valve heads, ok there is a
on one side that is restricting the flow, radius out that portion,
you get improved filling of the cylinders.

Do a what is called a three angle valve job, and you will improve
also, once the three angle valve job is done, put the valves back
the seat, and grind them in.

You will have on your valves now a polished grind mark on the
face of your valves, it will be a grinded, polished band all around
the contact face (again, the roughly 45 deg angle, that contacts the
valve seat.)

Most probably you will now find that the the polished surface , is
only a small part of the whole contact surface.

The "extra" part is stopping airflow.

This is really easy, you can do all this yourself , get a good
ironfile, and a drill with adjustable speed, and a piece of leather.

Wrap a piece of leather around the valvestem, and inser it into the
drills chuck, like if you were installing a drill.

Start the drill, you will find out with the variable speed what
rpm is
good(,'s a feel thing,.... but you will catch on really
quick.) and start filing the valve in following fashion.

Look at the edge of the valve face, and you will most probably see
some square or sharp profile, if it is a standard out of the box

That edge have to have a radius, a smooth round edge, prefereably
the way down to the polished valve seat mark.

Ok once that is done, look at the back of the valve, (still the
flat part, but the side that is facing the stem), from the stem, to
the 45 degree cut, you will se that there is a lot of unneccesary
material . The original slope down to the 45 degree cut is very
shallow, and it's meeting the 45 degree cut with a sharp edge.

File down the back of the valve in such a way that you will get a
surface funnel all the way to the grinded polished contact surface.

You really don't do too much, just sit there with the drill in your
hand, it's doing the job for you.

Ok that is all the machining you need to do, now clean the parts and
have them thermal coated.

You can either get a kit yourself, but you get the most consistent
result if you send them in to a shop that is doing it.

Coat the inside(compustion chamber) of the head, coat the valves,
especially the head, an up through the backside and the stem on the
exhaust valve.

Coat the top of the pistons, and have the piston skirts coated at
same time, with anti friction coating.

Get it back, and put it together, and you will now have an engine
breaths easier, runs cooler ( the heat is contained better, doing a
better job of pushing your prop) and will do more work for you. ( of
course, there is also the option of taking the whole engine apart
have every nock and cranny done per the book, but the pistons, heads
and the valves are the important parts)

Typical tests in Hot Rod magazines, shows ( they have done thousands
of them by this time) about 5 to 7 % increase in both HP and torque.

So Jon, now you will have an engine that will be more optimized for
your prop, and it is not too much of a deal to do all these steps.

Your prop, and engine compatiability solved.

Good luck Jon.


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