Re: Fillers Richard


Thanks Richard... it is very wise to point out your background experience.


-----Original Message-----
From: Richard <mylittlemgb@...>
To: Q-LIST <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Thu, Feb 9, 2012 6:21 pm
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Fillers

Hey David sorry for my delay on this reply, work has been crazy. Is it safe to say you have a Smyth Sidewinder? Please feel free to give me a call on your painting issues. Other wise this weekend I will make a post as to how to paint a metal aircraft. As for the ezcote no it will not stay on metal but I do have the info for a filler to use that is light and works well on metal if preped right. Give me a shout and I will go threw it with you so you have a great long lasting paint job that is light. For all about to question my knowledge on this I was a painter at an aircraft paint shop for a number of years.

Richard Kaczmarek
Fast Little Airplanes
Woodstock, OH 43084

--- In Q-LIST@..., David Nix <drnix1@...> wrote:

I ran across this info. and would like to know if the EZ-Cote and micro ballons would work on metal where
bondo was used??Also, since you are a painter, do you use a LPHV spray gun?? I am going to try and
paint my Sidwinder which the previous owner painted and paint was sticky when I got it, but has since
hardened which took 4 months...anyway, any suggestions would be appreciated...t;hanks...David

From: Richard <mylittlemgb@...>
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2012 6:50 PM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Fillers

What I have found to use is a mix of micro balloons and a product called EZ-Cote works just like epoxy but much easier to sand even if you don't get the mix just right. My sanding block came from the local hobby shop and is about 24 or so inch. long and metal. When I prime a composite project I use a foam roller for the first filler coat. You will wet sand most of it off but the roller will fill any pin holes you have. As for paint do use a good primer sealer most all have good UV protection now days. I would not use Emron unless you have a good fresh breathing air mask, and suit up well. I am dealing with health problems from not taking the warnings serious. Now mind you I have been painting aircraft and custom cars for 20 years. Have fun with it, this is one of those times that seem to take forever but it is the most full filling when it is over for me.

Richard Kaczmark
Fast Little Airplanes LLC

-- In Q-LIST@..., Rob de Bie <robdebie@> wrote:

Just a wild question: would it help to vacuum the fresh epoxy-micro
mix to remove the air bubbles that later cause pinholes? Or maybe
it's too viscous for that? I vacuumed silicone rubber today, and I'm
always amazed at the amount of bubbles.


At 23:53 18-01-2012, you wrote:

After all these years, I have found THE BEST way to do this. Forget
fillers, other than micro. Forget sanding high spots. Forget using
progressive sandpapers, higher than 100 G or so. Forget poly fill feather
fill, etc. Forget spot putty. Forget filling the low areas ad nausea.

Back in 2003 a guy named George Sychrovsky wrote a great description of a
better way to do the filling. This was based on the method described by
Cory Bird in his perfect aircraft, Symmetry. Unfortunately, his link now
appears to be dead. If you can find a copy of the article, we should
archive it somewhere.

However, there are some resources available. Try doing a Google for "Cory
Bird Symmetry epoxy wipe". Here are some links

This is hands-down the best method. You can call me if you like.


On Wed, Jan 18, 2012 at 12:17 PM, <scheevel@> wrote:

OK. The time has come to start filling and sanding some parts in
preparation for primer.

Simple question. Those of you who feel you have found the holy grail of
fillers. Please give me your choice. I intend to use DuPont 210-S and
imron, if that makes a difference to the filler, I do not know, but give me
your opinions please.

Jay Scheevel -- Tri-Q, still building

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