Re: Quickie Tri-Q200

Jerry Marstall <jnmarstall@...>

I have been running a Denso since 1997.  First on the Revmaster and now on the 0-200.  Charges at idle. No problems.



From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 7:36 PM
To: Quickie List
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Quickie Tri-Q200



I have had the B&C 30 amp alternator for several years.  It works great. Just remember that it doesn't produce power until 1,500 RPM or so. 


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On Apr 17, 2017 4:56 PM, "'Jon Matcho' jonmatcho@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:


Paul Fischer asked:  “BTW, what does the term "IRAN'd" mean?”


IRAN:  Inspect and Repair as Necessary.  I have been told to expect $2,500 to open the engine into pieces and inspect tolerances, a $2,500 parts allowance, and $2,500 to put back together.  I am betting it will easily top $10,000 either for parts, inflation, or this equation just isn’t right


Emron wrote:  “Jon, I'm pretty sure that any real tear down is going to require some form of break-in because the cylinders will get a new hone.”


Yes, there is little-to-no reasonable choice but to tear down the engine because of a prop strike.


Since I do not “want” to afford a rebuild of the MT constant speed hub and two new blades for $8,000+ I am moving the aircraft to use a fixed pitch prop for which I need a different prop extension.  Rather than machine or clamp-on a forward belt-drive slot, I decided to go with a rear-mounted B&C 30-amp alternator.  If I have to move the battery forward I’ll save a couple more pounds in weight.


Kevin Boddicker wrote:  “The reason that the alt was moved to the front in the first place was because of the poor design of the mounting hardware with the original Denso alt. Some of the units made metal shavings, some had bad bearings etc.”


That was a concern of mine as well and I have heard of issues with gear-driven accessories doing that.  I am not sure of the timing, but there are new alternator gear part numbers that superseded older part numbers which is why I bought new gears to fit the B&C alternator.  I am going to have the engine shop mount and test the alternator.


Jay Scheevel wrote:  “Set my alternator up so it can be removed without removing the engine from the plane…”


Jay, are you going with a rear mounted gear-driven setup as well?  I plan to use a B&C 30-amp gear-driven alternator in the back and would love to know more about how you’re going to provide access to it without removing the engine.


Emron wrote:  “The big area I can see this impacting is your taxi-time familiarity. For the TriQ this will be a lot easier. If ~30 mins won't be enough time, is it possible for you to get taxi-comfortable before the rebuild or in a different aircraft?  It's not clear what your experience is, but I did find that a little bit of Grumman Cheetah/Tiger and Diamond DA/20 time was helpful to me to get used to similar(-ish) ground handling.”


I am still a student pilot and am considering having my instructor transitioned into the aircraft (he is willing and is also an A&P) so that he may keep it airworthy and train me in it.  Thanks, I knew about the Grumman but not the Diamond having similar braking.  Do you know if the Piper Cherokee close as well (I do not care for that plane much at all)?


Thanks everyone, I am now looking to maintain as much of my existing hardware as possible; replace with new only when necessary – especially considering the challenging transition I will have to break-in the engine. 






Jon Matcho

Repairing a Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E

Quickie Builders Association Administrator

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