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I may have already been outed.
No tandem wing flying for me but I have been trading glass for air. I did a Cherokee nose bowl repair. Replaced the factory crappy sandwich stiffeners. He has taken me flying twice and let’s me fly if I want. Did my first right seat take off and landing in a Cherokee 140 last week. We are right in the middle of flying season, cool air, no snow, clear skies, 67 F today. We also landed on the dry lake bed near Wilson Az. and another dirt strip 2500 ft 4200 MSL.
The Oklahoma oil line problem on the Tri-Pacer has resulted in me making a precautionary landing on the way home from Ogden in September. The #2 rod bearing has failed. I do not know the crank condition. Looking at repair options now plane is at Benson hangar.
King of broken airplanes,
Charlie a.k.a. One Sky Dog
On Jan 4, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:
Sounds like the way to go, John. I would take Charlie’s advice.
For those who don’t know Charlie is One Sky Dog. I hope I haven’t blown your “witness protection program” cover, Charlie!
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of One Sky Dog via groups.io
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 9:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Cutting control cable
With all the analysis and getting out the chainsaw equivalent die grinder and pumping up the compressor.
As I used to tell my students power tools are not always faster or better.
With the cable in the spiral determine length. Remove plastic coating if present. With pliers kink the spiral to open up a coil where you want to cut it. File diagonally with the corner of a file to cut half way thru then use pliers to bend back and forth to break at the file cut. Controlled operation no chance of damage to inner cable no slip of the die grinder.
You are the mechanic in charge, 40 years of manufacturing and maintenance.
Cut many cables.
On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:39 PM, John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns@...> wrote:
It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years.
On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io
If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables. Phil
Wrap it with masking tape. Use a die grinder with cutting blade. You'll use the die grinder for lots of things.
I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands?