Fuel filler plumbing


Bruce Crain
 

Here is the set up that I plagiarized from Sammy Hoskins. It has worked great for years for Sammy and I. We cut off the threads of the old filler neck. Then went to the hardware store and picked up the plumbing for a sink drain. It is all metal. Then cut off the threaded drain about 2 1-2 inches down. Clean the outside of the metal and then scratch it up with 40 grit so it’s rough. Put some wadded up newspaper down in the filler neck with string so you can pull it out. Then inside of the filler neck clean extra well and scratch the surface so epoxie and flox will bond.
Mix some epoxie and whet out the filler neck and the outside scratched up surface of the plumbing drain pipe. You should have checked to see how far down into the filler neck the plumbing pipe will go before this.
When you are securing the plumbing pipe into the filler neck you can put some more wadded up newspaper in the hole so the flox and epoxie won’t run down the outside of the pipe into the filler neck and fuel neck tank.
Fill the cavity with flox and epoxie inside the filler neck and outside the pipe. Let it cure. Be sure your cover over the large nut can close before you start to epoxie.

After that you will need to cut out a round aluminum piece to fit inside the large cap/nut and find some J B Weld or something fuel compatible to secure it in place. You don’t want to leave it loose in the nut as when you least expect it the turkey will depart with the wind and the chase will be on.

For the inside of the cap you will need a round cut to shape piece of fuel compatible gasket rubber material and clean and scratch to top side up so the fuel compatible glue will bond and stay bonded. You want it to seal very well so you don’t lose any fuel tank pressure. Our fuel head pressure is pretty short so nothing but ram air getting into and out of the tank.

Clear as mud?

Bruce Crain
N96BJ

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