You can buy a huge variety of studs on based ready to fix to a laminated surface by flox and BID pads here; 

https://www.mcmaster.com/adhesive-mount-studs/

As to making AN hardware work in that context, take a drilled head bolt and open up the hole a little so it takes a short length of  welding rod. After you pot that in a BID/flox matrix, you can use a metal locknut on it and it wont run round. In fact, removing such an installation  is a Dremel job…. 

Bill Allen

On Tue, 4 Oct 2022 at 20:57, Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins@...> wrote:

You can use a drill to countersink the head of the bolt into the phenolic. Then pack around the head with flox.  For AN3, the bolt won't rotate.

Try not to cut into the skin when doing this.

As far as I can recall, the plans don't call for embedding in the canard.  Better to just attach to the outside.

This may or may not help.

http://samhoskins.blogspot.com/search?q=rudder+pedals

Sam

On Tue, Oct 4, 2022 at 11:36 AM Robert Schmid <robert@...> wrote:

Silly question I am sure but I am struggling with floxing in AN bolts, or SS Grade 8 ones for that matter, to mount various things inside the plane, some more structural than others. What I do know is ...
1 - I'd use phenolic as the base with the bolt thru it,
2 - then cover the phenolic with 2 layers of BID but ...

How do I make sure the bolt doesn't slip when I put on the nut?
Do I always need to cut the foam out to attach the phenolic to the outside instead of inside skin?
What about embedding in the canard?

Thanks Robert
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Robert "TheFrisco" Schmid
(408) 805-5450

www.facebook.com/TheFlyingFriscos
www.theflyingfriscos.com

Love building planes almost as much as flying. Latest completed build is "Loki", a Chinook Plus 2 bush plane.

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