Date   

Re: E-Bay Q...now brakes

joseph.m.tygart.alion@...
 

Thanks Ryan - might be, I'll take apart the master. Could also be leaking
air from the caliper piston assembly? We'll see. joe

-----Original Message-----
From: Tri-Q1 [mailto:rryan@...]
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2005 10:03 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: E-Bay Q...now brakes




Joe,

It doesn't matter which brake system you have there is a problem to
be found and fixed. With no pressure at the master it might be a seal
or O-ring.

Ryan


--- In Q-LIST@..., joseph.m.tygart.alion@l... wrote:
Oh ye of knowledge - In my endless crusade to restore N672CP to a
flyable
condition, I have upgraded the brake mounting bracket and serviced
the
"Airheart Brakes." After totally dismantling the brakes & purging
the old
mineral oil fluid from the system, I am unable to completely bleed
the
brakes, i.e. with the first compression of the brake cylinder
(conventional
arm rest mounted handle) I consistently get air in the line with
negative
brake. These are the differential type Airhearts' with independent
approximate 5" brake cylinders with 1 ea. bleed valve per
cylinder. The
calipers have 2 ea. bleed valves. I've tried bleeding from the top
down and
several times from the caliper bleed valve up through the cylander
valve
with a "mityVac" vacuum system! No luck. Realizing this is a
hybrid old
system - is there a special tool or technique I'm missing or should
I scrap
the Airheart system altogether? Thanks, Joe



-----Original Message-----
From: jcrain2@j... [mailto:jcrain2@j...]
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 10:58 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] E-Bay Q



















Quickie Builders Association WEB site
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Re: Broken Skytech pinion tooth (Q200)

Jim Patillo
 

Kevin,

The shiny spot (scrape) you saw on the side of the housing is
indicative of the pinion gear being side loaded when fully engaged
into the starter gear on the engine. Rich Chappee would immediately
diagnose that as a kickback.

I'm of the opinion that you either had an electrical kickback or a
hydraulic kickback. Given the fact that you use a mag to start
indicates a hydraulic kickback. That happens when the battery you
are using doesn't have enough amperage to get over the top (high
compression). The result is a damaged housing, shaft, seals, etc.

As I've said before, the inrush amperage required to run a permanent
magnet starter is much greater than that of a B&C starter and
requires a larger battery. I still use a 25RG even though the B&C
will start an IO540 with an 18AH battery.

The reason we initially started using the Skytec was because it was
a direct replacement for the stock unit, no modifications.

The B&C requires modification to the mag box because the solenoid is
mounted at 45 degrees or so as opposed to vertical for the Skytec.

Simply mount the B&C and determine the area to be cut out of the mag
box. Use the piece you cut out, reverse it and flox back into place.
Reglass to restore rigidity to the mag box. Cut the interfering
corner of the motor mount pad so that the starter clears on
installation. You will need about a quarter of an inch clearance
around the new starter to prevent rubbing.

Hope this helps you. I really think you're wasting your time putting
on another reworked Skytec. Rich is a really nice guy but there is
an issue that needs to be solved here.

Good luck,

Jim P.
"Kevin Fortin" <kfortin@p...> wrote:
Jim,

I know about the motor mount mods that need to be done but haven't
heard
about the "magbox" mods you mentioned. What's happening there?

Thanks for you time and I wish I had listened to you earlier
(oops).

"Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want".



Kevin

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Patillo [mailto:logistics_engineering@m...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 9:24 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Broken Skytech pinion tooth (Q200)




Kevin,

1. Thank Rich for all his help, send it back and try to get a
refund.
Don't waste your time trying to make another Skytec work. I tried
that three times.
2. Buy a B&C, have Bruce Bainbridge upgrade the motor to a 320, no
charge(better for high compression)and install it.
3. Go fly!

The B&C starter has worked perfectly since the install. The
modification to the mag box was simple and the motor mount only
needed to have one corner cut off the pad. About 10 hours work,
start
to stop.

As I've said before the B&C starter takes much less power to run
it.
Hopefully I've put the starter issue behind me. You can do the
same.

Sorry to hear of your troubles. I do understand!


Regards,
Jim P

--- In Q-LIST@..., "Kevin Fortin" <kfortin@p...> wrote:
Brad Olsen and guys,



First off, my apologies to Brad Olsen for not responding to an
offline email
he sent me regarding the following subject. My email was
filtering
emails
without attachments and I didn't realize it.



I am responding to his email on list because I think it is of
interest to
many regarding Skytech starters.



Background: I ordered a Skytech starter on the basis of
what
Skytech
told me and after discussing what seemed to be the problem with
Jim
Patillo's starter aka. "electronic ignition induced kickback".
Upon
receiving the new starter I installed it and it seemed to work
well, but had
more of a "grinding" sound in operation than I would have
liked.
After a 10
MAXIMUM total starts, in a hurry to get the airplane to an
avionics
shop
(onfield), I forgot to turn on the fuel, and, after a very short
taxi, the
obvious happened, I ran out of gas. Duh!!! I turned the gas
valve
on,
waited about a minute, then tried starting again. The prop
turned
for
somewhere between 6 to 10 seconds before the engine caught and I
taxied on
my merry way. A couple of days later, I picked the airplane up,
jumped in to
start it, and was met with what seemed to be the grinding sound
of
gears
with missing teeth (the engine did start, however).



The following weekend I pulled the engine and the starter only
to
find a
tooth missing from the Skytech starters drive pinion gear. That
was
the bad
news. The good news, I was able to find the tooth. (I thank the
Q
god's for
that one.)



On the following Monday, I called Skytech and explained the
problem
and they
did all they could to help. I can't complain about their
customer
service.



At this point, I have received a replacement starter (new) from
Skytech, but
as of yet, I have not installed it. All my mental alarms are
going
off
related to something that can throw of a piece off big enough
that
it could
gum up my engine (read off field landing and/or a damaged
engine)
or at the
least break off a tooth on the crankshaft gear, which at the
least,
is going
to be damn expensive.



Relevant info 1. As far as I know I did not have a
kickback.

2. I was starting on left mag only

3. I believe the real problem is Skytech's
control of the
centerline distance of the pinion/crankshaft gear set. In an
effort
to
loosen the tolerances in the manufacture of the starter, Skytech
has allowed
the pinion to get too far away from the main gear on the
crankshaft. This
results in an incredible force trying to separate the gears.
This
force than
further deflects the shaft that holds the pinion, which leads to
even higher
forces on the gears, then ultimately to a broken tooth.

4. I am going to try to get some measurements
on
the
centerline distances this weekend and I will let you guys know
what
I find.

5. Item 3 is only conjecture at this point.
Please take it
as so.

6. I have high compression pistons, but I
don't
know the
ratio.

7. I usually don't write well and tonight is
even
worse.





If anyone has a better starting system idea, let me know. I am
not
feeling
to good with this right now.



Kevin Fortin

N275CH

Except for the starter, damn close to flyin'
















Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Need a pull starter for 0-200A

Steve <sham@...>
 

Hey Mike, Call me off line.
Steve Ham 317 538 9186

----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Dwyer
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2005 3:39 PM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Need a pull starter for 0-200A


Hey Guys,
Anyone have an old "Pull Starter" for the Cont 0-200A laying around. I
need to buy one. Mine just smoked! It actually still cranks the engine
but slower than normal and when I took it apart it smells of burned wire
plus some of the wire is now black... Not good!

Thanks,
Mike Q-200 N3QP


'


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Velocity Aircraft

Gordon Givens
 

Just tried to reach Velocity Aircraft in Sebastian Florida re: ordering parts and was told their number has been disconnected. Can anyone fill me in on what has happened there. Thanks.

Gord
Q2 builder
Ottawa Canada


Re: E-Bay Q...now brakes

Tri-Q1 <rryan@...>
 

Joe,

It doesn't matter which brake system you have there is a problem to
be found and fixed. With no pressure at the master it might be a seal
or O-ring.

Ryan


--- In Q-LIST@..., joseph.m.tygart.alion@l... wrote:
Oh ye of knowledge - In my endless crusade to restore N672CP to a
flyable
condition, I have upgraded the brake mounting bracket and serviced
the
"Airheart Brakes." After totally dismantling the brakes & purging
the old
mineral oil fluid from the system, I am unable to completely bleed
the
brakes, i.e. with the first compression of the brake cylinder
(conventional
arm rest mounted handle) I consistently get air in the line with
negative
brake. These are the differential type Airhearts' with independent
approximate 5" brake cylinders with 1 ea. bleed valve per
cylinder. The
calipers have 2 ea. bleed valves. I've tried bleeding from the top
down and
several times from the caliper bleed valve up through the cylander
valve
with a "mityVac" vacuum system! No luck. Realizing this is a
hybrid old
system - is there a special tool or technique I'm missing or should
I scrap
the Airheart system altogether? Thanks, Joe



-----Original Message-----
From: jcrain2@j... [mailto:jcrain2@j...]
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 10:58 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] E-Bay Q
















Re: E-Bay Q

joseph.m.tygart.alion@...
 

Oh ye of knowledge - In my endless crusade to restore N672CP to a flyable
condition, I have upgraded the brake mounting bracket and serviced the
"Airheart Brakes." After totally dismantling the brakes & purging the old
mineral oil fluid from the system, I am unable to completely bleed the
brakes, i.e. with the first compression of the brake cylinder (conventional
arm rest mounted handle) I consistently get air in the line with negative
brake. These are the differential type Airhearts' with independent
approximate 5" brake cylinders with 1 ea. bleed valve per cylinder. The
calipers have 2 ea. bleed valves. I've tried bleeding from the top down and
several times from the caliper bleed valve up through the cylander valve
with a "mityVac" vacuum system! No luck. Realizing this is a hybrid old
system - is there a special tool or technique I'm missing or should I scrap
the Airheart system altogether? Thanks, Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: jcrain2@... [mailto:jcrain2@...]
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 10:58 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] E-Bay Q


Re: X-Plane Q2/Q200?

Kent Sorensen <kents@...>
 

The Q2 files seems to be for an old version of X-plane and would not
load in the current version. However, you can download a Q1 design from
the x-plane repository at www.x-plane.org

Select Aircraft at the bottom of the page, then X-plane 6, then
Homebuilts. It will be on the second page. I wasn't too impressed with
it though.

Kent

On Feb 21, 2005, at 8:55 PM, Jon Finley wrote:

Could someone that has a Q2 or Q200 X-Plane "design" please email me a
copy??  My son has gotten into X-Plane and would like a Q to fly.

Thanks!

Jon Finley (jon at finleyweb dot net)
N90MG Q2 - Subaru EJ-22 DD - 467 Hrs. TT
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://www.FinleyWeb.net/Q2Subaru



Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





Yahoo! Groups Links

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• To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...
 
• Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.


Re: Laughlin

Bruce Crain
 

Jim,
Paul Fisher is in and very excited as am I! Lynn French is joining the gaggle also! It is a fun flight that takes a little bit of planning as the airports thin out in NM and AZ.
Can't wait to see you guys!
Bruce



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Re: Broken Skytech pinion tooth (Q200)

Kevin Fortin <kfortin@...>
 

Jim,

I know about the motor mount mods that need to be done but haven't heard
about the "magbox" mods you mentioned. What's happening there?

Thanks for you time and I wish I had listened to you earlier (oops).

"Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want".



Kevin

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Patillo [mailto:logistics_engineering@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 9:24 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Broken Skytech pinion tooth (Q200)




Kevin,

1. Thank Rich for all his help, send it back and try to get a refund.
Don't waste your time trying to make another Skytec work. I tried
that three times.
2. Buy a B&C, have Bruce Bainbridge upgrade the motor to a 320, no
charge(better for high compression)and install it.
3. Go fly!

The B&C starter has worked perfectly since the install. The
modification to the mag box was simple and the motor mount only
needed to have one corner cut off the pad. About 10 hours work, start
to stop.

As I've said before the B&C starter takes much less power to run it.
Hopefully I've put the starter issue behind me. You can do the same.

Sorry to hear of your troubles. I do understand!


Regards,
Jim P

--- In Q-LIST@..., "Kevin Fortin" <kfortin@p...> wrote:
Brad Olsen and guys,



First off, my apologies to Brad Olsen for not responding to an
offline email
he sent me regarding the following subject. My email was filtering
emails
without attachments and I didn't realize it.



I am responding to his email on list because I think it is of
interest to
many regarding Skytech starters.



Background: I ordered a Skytech starter on the basis of what
Skytech
told me and after discussing what seemed to be the problem with Jim
Patillo's starter aka. "electronic ignition induced kickback". Upon
receiving the new starter I installed it and it seemed to work
well, but had
more of a "grinding" sound in operation than I would have liked.
After a 10
MAXIMUM total starts, in a hurry to get the airplane to an avionics
shop
(onfield), I forgot to turn on the fuel, and, after a very short
taxi, the
obvious happened, I ran out of gas. Duh!!! I turned the gas valve
on,
waited about a minute, then tried starting again. The prop turned
for
somewhere between 6 to 10 seconds before the engine caught and I
taxied on
my merry way. A couple of days later, I picked the airplane up,
jumped in to
start it, and was met with what seemed to be the grinding sound of
gears
with missing teeth (the engine did start, however).



The following weekend I pulled the engine and the starter only to
find a
tooth missing from the Skytech starters drive pinion gear. That was
the bad
news. The good news, I was able to find the tooth. (I thank the Q
god's for
that one.)



On the following Monday, I called Skytech and explained the problem
and they
did all they could to help. I can't complain about their customer
service.



At this point, I have received a replacement starter (new) from
Skytech, but
as of yet, I have not installed it. All my mental alarms are going
off
related to something that can throw of a piece off big enough that
it could
gum up my engine (read off field landing and/or a damaged engine)
or at the
least break off a tooth on the crankshaft gear, which at the least,
is going
to be damn expensive.



Relevant info 1. As far as I know I did not have a
kickback.

2. I was starting on left mag only

3. I believe the real problem is Skytech's
control of the
centerline distance of the pinion/crankshaft gear set. In an effort
to
loosen the tolerances in the manufacture of the starter, Skytech
has allowed
the pinion to get too far away from the main gear on the
crankshaft. This
results in an incredible force trying to separate the gears. This
force than
further deflects the shaft that holds the pinion, which leads to
even higher
forces on the gears, then ultimately to a broken tooth.

4. I am going to try to get some measurements on
the
centerline distances this weekend and I will let you guys know what
I find.

5. Item 3 is only conjecture at this point.
Please take it
as so.

6. I have high compression pistons, but I don't
know the
ratio.

7. I usually don't write well and tonight is even
worse.





If anyone has a better starting system idea, let me know. I am not
feeling
to good with this right now.



Kevin Fortin

N275CH

Except for the starter, damn close to flyin'
















Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Broken Skytech pinion tooth (Q200)

Kevin Fortin <kfortin@...>
 

Guys,

I forgot to include in my previous email that a major deflection of the
pinion shaft was detectable because the pinion was pushed far enough off
center to put a gouge in an aluminum "shroud" that wraps around the "open"
side of the pinion (the shroud is part of the starter casting). Skytech knew
immediately what I was talking about when I mentioned this. This deflection
is what made me believe that the gears are off center to begin with. I know
from experience that improper centerline distances, on the plus side,
increase gear separation forces dramatically.

I don't think there is anything intrinsically wrong with the pinion itself.
Apparently it is supplied by Hitachi and is used for other starters in the
aircraft industry.


Kevin

-----Original Message-----
From: britmcman@... [mailto:britmcman@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 9:02 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Broken Skytech pinion tooth (Q200)


Hello All:

There is a lot of available science out there regarding failure analysis.
The broken gears that so many of you seem to have produced should be looked
at
by a metallurgical analytical lab. In order to solve this problem there
ought to be someone at Skytec doing all of this anyway. When something
isn't
right, there is a reason. Consider defective metals, castings, forgings,
heat
treatments, case hardenings, etc. A look at the fracture with an electron
microscope may reveal the real reason that gear tooth broke off.

I would insist that the manufacturer conduct a thorough root cause and
corrective action investigation. They should insist on doing it if they
want to
stay in business. The starter's design and materials should be robust
enough
to survive routine occurrences such as kickback.

Phil Lankford
N870BM
B&C Starter


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Laughlin

Jim Patillo
 

Bruce that is great news! We'll be looking for you.

I will be a lot of fun, especially with our estern brethern. Try to
get Fisher off the dime. He ought to be comming too.

Regards,
Jim P.

--- In Q-LIST@..., "jcrain2@j..." <jcrain2@j...> wrote:

Jim,
Several of us are "on it like a duck on a June bug"! Hopefully
with weather permitting a few of us from east of the "Rockies" will
be in attendance! It is an awesome trip through the mountains!
Although they aren't that tall flying out I-40 west. Look forward to
seeing you guys Jim!
Bruce


-- "Jim Patillo" <patillo@a...> wrote:




Hopefully we will have Livermore Q's in attendance. Bob, Jim, Brad,
Jeff and Mark. Alan too but no plane, he's still working on it.

Jim P.

--- In Q-LIST@..., "jcrain2@j..." <jcrain2@j...> wrote:

Hey Lynn,
Sam Kittle and I were discussing the Laughlin Fly in. We were
wondering if you could be provoked into flying out. Maybe a 2 or 3
or 4 ship from the frozen Midwest! I couldn't get your e-mail
address to work.
Bruce

___________________________________________________________________
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Re: Broken Skytech pinion tooth (Q200)

Kevin Fortin <kfortin@...>
 

Brad,

If my Q had a pull starter, from what I know, I would stick with that.

Kevin

-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Olson [mailto:n1tm@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 8:56 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Broken Skytech pinion tooth (Q200)



--- In Q-LIST@..., "Kevin Fortin" <kfortin@p...> wrote:
Kevin,

Thanks for the info and glad you found that tooth! I talked to Rich
at Sky Tec the day after you called, and he relayed your story. I
started asking general questions about a Sky Tec with a high
compression O-200, but then cut to the concern with Jim Patillo's
three failures. Rich was very upfront about the whole matter and told
me not to buy a Sky Tec for a high compression O-200. He said they
need to go to work and find the problem, and he assured me he would.

After searching the Internet and not finding any real issues with Sky
Tecs and O-200s, I was prepared to buy one as I thought Jim's
problems may have been partially related to the dual electronic
ignition. Instead, my pull starter comes off this weekend for an
overhaul. Maybe a B&C will go in next winter.

Brad Olson
N321TM, Livermore

Brad Olsen and guys,



First off, my apologies to Brad Olsen for not responding to an
offline email
he sent me regarding the following subject. My email was filtering
emails
without attachments and I didn't realize it.



I am responding to his email on list because I think it is of
interest to
many regarding Skytech starters.



Background: I ordered a Skytech starter on the basis of what
Skytech
told me and after discussing what seemed to be the problem with Jim
Patillo's starter aka. "electronic ignition induced kickback". Upon
receiving the new starter I installed it and it seemed to work well,
but had
more of a "grinding" sound in operation than I would have liked.





Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Broken Skytech pinion tooth (Q200)

Jim Patillo
 

Kevin,

1. Thank Rich for all his help, send it back and try to get a refund.
Don't waste your time trying to make another Skytec work. I tried
that three times.
2. Buy a B&C, have Bruce Bainbridge upgrade the motor to a 320, no
charge(better for high compression)and install it.
3. Go fly!

The B&C starter has worked perfectly since the install. The
modification to the mag box was simple and the motor mount only
needed to have one corner cut off the pad. About 10 hours work, start
to stop.

As I've said before the B&C starter takes much less power to run it.
Hopefully I've put the starter issue behind me. You can do the same.

Sorry to hear of your troubles. I do understand!


Regards,
Jim P

--- In Q-LIST@..., "Kevin Fortin" <kfortin@p...> wrote:
Brad Olsen and guys,



First off, my apologies to Brad Olsen for not responding to an
offline email
he sent me regarding the following subject. My email was filtering
emails
without attachments and I didn't realize it.



I am responding to his email on list because I think it is of
interest to
many regarding Skytech starters.



Background: I ordered a Skytech starter on the basis of what
Skytech
told me and after discussing what seemed to be the problem with Jim
Patillo's starter aka. "electronic ignition induced kickback". Upon
receiving the new starter I installed it and it seemed to work
well, but had
more of a "grinding" sound in operation than I would have liked.
After a 10
MAXIMUM total starts, in a hurry to get the airplane to an avionics
shop
(onfield), I forgot to turn on the fuel, and, after a very short
taxi, the
obvious happened, I ran out of gas. Duh!!! I turned the gas valve
on,
waited about a minute, then tried starting again. The prop turned
for
somewhere between 6 to 10 seconds before the engine caught and I
taxied on
my merry way. A couple of days later, I picked the airplane up,
jumped in to
start it, and was met with what seemed to be the grinding sound of
gears
with missing teeth (the engine did start, however).



The following weekend I pulled the engine and the starter only to
find a
tooth missing from the Skytech starters drive pinion gear. That was
the bad
news. The good news, I was able to find the tooth. (I thank the Q
god's for
that one.)



On the following Monday, I called Skytech and explained the problem
and they
did all they could to help. I can't complain about their customer
service.



At this point, I have received a replacement starter (new) from
Skytech, but
as of yet, I have not installed it. All my mental alarms are going
off
related to something that can throw of a piece off big enough that
it could
gum up my engine (read off field landing and/or a damaged engine)
or at the
least break off a tooth on the crankshaft gear, which at the least,
is going
to be damn expensive.



Relevant info 1. As far as I know I did not have a
kickback.

2. I was starting on left mag only

3. I believe the real problem is Skytech's
control of the
centerline distance of the pinion/crankshaft gear set. In an effort
to
loosen the tolerances in the manufacture of the starter, Skytech
has allowed
the pinion to get too far away from the main gear on the
crankshaft. This
results in an incredible force trying to separate the gears. This
force than
further deflects the shaft that holds the pinion, which leads to
even higher
forces on the gears, then ultimately to a broken tooth.

4. I am going to try to get some measurements on
the
centerline distances this weekend and I will let you guys know what
I find.

5. Item 3 is only conjecture at this point.
Please take it
as so.

6. I have high compression pistons, but I don't
know the
ratio.

7. I usually don't write well and tonight is even
worse.





If anyone has a better starting system idea, let me know. I am not
feeling
to good with this right now.



Kevin Fortin

N275CH

Except for the starter, damn close to flyin'












Re: Broken Skytech pinion tooth (Q200)

Brad Olson <n1tm@...>
 

--- In Q-LIST@..., "Kevin Fortin" <kfortin@p...> wrote:
Kevin,

Thanks for the info and glad you found that tooth! I talked to Rich
at Sky Tec the day after you called, and he relayed your story. I
started asking general questions about a Sky Tec with a high
compression O-200, but then cut to the concern with Jim Patillo's
three failures. Rich was very upfront about the whole matter and told
me not to buy a Sky Tec for a high compression O-200. He said they
need to go to work and find the problem, and he assured me he would.

After searching the Internet and not finding any real issues with Sky
Tecs and O-200s, I was prepared to buy one as I thought Jim's
problems may have been partially related to the dual electronic
ignition. Instead, my pull starter comes off this weekend for an
overhaul. Maybe a B&C will go in next winter.

Brad Olson
N321TM, Livermore

Brad Olsen and guys,



First off, my apologies to Brad Olsen for not responding to an
offline email
he sent me regarding the following subject. My email was filtering
emails
without attachments and I didn't realize it.



I am responding to his email on list because I think it is of
interest to
many regarding Skytech starters.



Background: I ordered a Skytech starter on the basis of what
Skytech
told me and after discussing what seemed to be the problem with Jim
Patillo's starter aka. "electronic ignition induced kickback". Upon
receiving the new starter I installed it and it seemed to work well,
but had
more of a "grinding" sound in operation than I would have liked.


Re: Steerable nose wheel

REBECCA SIMPSON
 

Pat - You always have a way of driving the point home - Thanks

Patrick Panzera <panzera@...> wrote:> Earnest,
Have differential brakes - Low time pilot just getting ready to test fly
project (Phoenix SL - TRI-DF with LS-1). I just have a warm cushy feeling
with a steerable nose wheel.
No worries Tad, the learning curve is maybe 10 min.
Worst thing you can do is park w/o making sure the wheel is straight.

Consider the weight, complexity and x-wind conditions (touching down with the up
wind wing down, and full rudder to realign with centerline... where is your nose
wheel pointing?) against the warm feeling.

Pat



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Re: Steerable nose wheel

Patrick Panzera <panzera@...>
 

Earnest,
Have differential brakes - Low time pilot just getting ready to test fly
project (Phoenix SL - TRI-DF with LS-1). I just have a warm cushy feeling
with a steerable nose wheel.
No worries Tad, the learning curve is maybe 10 min.
Worst thing you can do is park w/o making sure the wheel is straight.

Consider the weight, complexity and x-wind conditions (touching down with the up
wind wing down, and full rudder to realign with centerline... where is your nose
wheel pointing?) against the warm feeling.

Pat


Broken Skytech pinion tooth (Q200)

Kevin Fortin <kfortin@...>
 

Brad Olsen and guys,



First off, my apologies to Brad Olsen for not responding to an offline email
he sent me regarding the following subject. My email was filtering emails
without attachments and I didn't realize it.



I am responding to his email on list because I think it is of interest to
many regarding Skytech starters.



Background: I ordered a Skytech starter on the basis of what Skytech
told me and after discussing what seemed to be the problem with Jim
Patillo's starter aka. "electronic ignition induced kickback". Upon
receiving the new starter I installed it and it seemed to work well, but had
more of a "grinding" sound in operation than I would have liked. After a 10
MAXIMUM total starts, in a hurry to get the airplane to an avionics shop
(onfield), I forgot to turn on the fuel, and, after a very short taxi, the
obvious happened, I ran out of gas. Duh!!! I turned the gas valve on,
waited about a minute, then tried starting again. The prop turned for
somewhere between 6 to 10 seconds before the engine caught and I taxied on
my merry way. A couple of days later, I picked the airplane up, jumped in to
start it, and was met with what seemed to be the grinding sound of gears
with missing teeth (the engine did start, however).



The following weekend I pulled the engine and the starter only to find a
tooth missing from the Skytech starters drive pinion gear. That was the bad
news. The good news, I was able to find the tooth. (I thank the Q god's for
that one.)



On the following Monday, I called Skytech and explained the problem and they
did all they could to help. I can't complain about their customer service.



At this point, I have received a replacement starter (new) from Skytech, but
as of yet, I have not installed it. All my mental alarms are going off
related to something that can throw of a piece off big enough that it could
gum up my engine (read off field landing and/or a damaged engine) or at the
least break off a tooth on the crankshaft gear, which at the least, is going
to be damn expensive.



Relevant info 1. As far as I know I did not have a kickback.

2. I was starting on left mag only

3. I believe the real problem is Skytech's control of the
centerline distance of the pinion/crankshaft gear set. In an effort to
loosen the tolerances in the manufacture of the starter, Skytech has allowed
the pinion to get too far away from the main gear on the crankshaft. This
results in an incredible force trying to separate the gears. This force than
further deflects the shaft that holds the pinion, which leads to even higher
forces on the gears, then ultimately to a broken tooth.

4. I am going to try to get some measurements on the
centerline distances this weekend and I will let you guys know what I find.

5. Item 3 is only conjecture at this point. Please take it
as so.

6. I have high compression pistons, but I don't know the
ratio.

7. I usually don't write well and tonight is even worse.





If anyone has a better starting system idea, let me know. I am not feeling
to good with this right now.



Kevin Fortin

N275CH

Except for the starter, damn close to flyin'


Re: Steerable nose wheel

REBECCA SIMPSON
 

Earnest,
Have differential brakes - Low time pilot just getting ready to test fly project (Phoenix SL - TRI-DF with LS-1). I just have a warm cushy feeling with a steerable nose wheel.

Tad Simpson
Phoenix (Tri-DF)
N1007p

MartinErni@... wrote:
Who is asking and why on earth would you want one? Differential brakes work
as well and are much simpler
Earnest.







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http://www.quickiebuilders.org





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Re: E-Bay Q

Tri-Q1 <rryan@...>
 

N-number : N83PW
Aircraft Serial Number : 2723
Aircraft Manufacturer : WHETSTEN RONALD N
Model : QUICKIE Q-2
Engine Manufacturer : REVMASTER
Model : 2100 SERIES
Aircraft Year : 1983
Owner Name : WHETSTEN RONALD N
Owner Address : 4111 MAGNOLIA
BATTLEFIELD, MO, 65619
Type of Owner : Individual
Registration Date : 10-Apr-1984
Airworthiness Certificate Type : Experimental
Approved Operations : Amateur Built




--- In Q-LIST@..., "Letempt, Jeffrey CW4"
<jeffrey.letempt@u...> wrote:
Bruce,

I had a friend who tried to buy this airplane about 9 months ago.
He had
cash in his hand ready to buy it, but the owner put so many
restrictions on
the sale that I am not sure anyone would ever be able to register
the
airplane. He would not provide a bill of sale or even disclose the
aircraft
tail number. He was so secretitive that you would have sworn it
was some
kind of a drug deal.

I do see in the pictures now posted on eBay that you can see the N
number,
maybe he realized he would never be able to sell the airplane with
such
stipulations. I understand people are very concerned about getting
sued.....if you (not really you) are that worried about it just cut
the
plane up and sell off the parts. It sure looks like a pretty
airplane.

The airplane is located about 100 miles from my home near
Springfield, MO.
Maybe someone can give me a good reason to fly down to Springfield
to take a
look at it. I flew about 1.2 hours today....just out boring holes
in the
sky with my Dragonfly.

There is a builder on this list who is familar with this airplane
and may be
able to provide additional information about the quality if someone
is
interested. I am not going to volunteer him, but if you ask he will
probably reply.

Jeff

-----Original Message-----
From: jcrain2@j...
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: 2/21/2005 9:57 PM
Subject: [Q-LIST] E-Bay Q



Isn't this Ron Whetstin's TriQ on E-Bay?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=4529158482
&indexURL=10#ebayphotohosting

Bruce

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Re: E-Bay Q

Letempt, Jeffrey CW4 <jeffrey.letempt@...>
 

Bruce,

I had a friend who tried to buy this airplane about 9 months ago. He had
cash in his hand ready to buy it, but the owner put so many restrictions on
the sale that I am not sure anyone would ever be able to register the
airplane. He would not provide a bill of sale or even disclose the aircraft
tail number. He was so secretitive that you would have sworn it was some
kind of a drug deal.

I do see in the pictures now posted on eBay that you can see the N number,
maybe he realized he would never be able to sell the airplane with such
stipulations. I understand people are very concerned about getting
sued.....if you (not really you) are that worried about it just cut the
plane up and sell off the parts. It sure looks like a pretty airplane.

The airplane is located about 100 miles from my home near Springfield, MO.
Maybe someone can give me a good reason to fly down to Springfield to take a
look at it. I flew about 1.2 hours today....just out boring holes in the
sky with my Dragonfly.

There is a builder on this list who is familar with this airplane and may be
able to provide additional information about the quality if someone is
interested. I am not going to volunteer him, but if you ask he will
probably reply.

Jeff

-----Original Message-----
From: jcrain2@...
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: 2/21/2005 9:57 PM
Subject: [Q-LIST] E-Bay Q



Isn't this Ron Whetstin's TriQ on E-Bay?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4529158482
&indexURL=10#ebayphotohosting

Bruce

___________________________________________________________________
Speed up your surfing with Juno SpeedBand.
Now includes pop-up blocker!
Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today!




Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links