|
Re: Q-200 Microsoft Flight Simulator 2004
REBECCA SIMPSON
Ron,
I can't even get it on the list ? How did you get it that far ? Thanks, Tad Simpson Ron <rondefly@...> wrote: Ross, I went to that site and downloaded the file, Put it in my MS flight simulator 2000, I unzipped it and it shows up in the choose aircraft file but can't find any image. Is there any more I have to do or maybe it will not run on my MSFS 2000. Ron T Ron Triano N4710P http://bld01.ipowerweb.com/contentmanagement/websites/rtrianoc/page8.html _____ From: Ross Christenson [mailto:r_christenson@...] Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 12:41 PM To: Q-LIST@... Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Q-200 Microsoft Flight Simulator 2004 To download the Q200 I used: http://library.wspilots.com/pafiledb.php?action=category <http://library.wspilots.com/pafiledb.php?action=category&id=3> &id=3 Ross MN Considering a Q200 Project. --- REBECCA SIMPSON <rebeccaandtad_simpson@...> wrote: Ross, __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Quickie Builders Association WEB site http://www.quickiebuilders.org _____ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Q-LIST-unsubscribe@... <mailto:Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe> * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Service. Quickie Builders Association WEB site http://www.quickiebuilders.org --------------------------------- Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Q-LIST-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
|
|
|
|
Re: Q-200 Microsoft Flight Simulator 2004
Ron <rondefly@...>
Ross, I went to that site and downloaded the file, Put it in my MS flight
simulator 2000, I unzipped it and it shows up in the choose aircraft file but can't find any image. Is there any more I have to do or maybe it will not run on my MSFS 2000. Ron T Ron Triano N4710P http://bld01.ipowerweb.com/contentmanagement/websites/rtrianoc/page8.html _____ From: Ross Christenson [mailto:r_christenson@...] Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 12:41 PM To: Q-LIST@... Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Q-200 Microsoft Flight Simulator 2004 To download the Q200 I used: http://library.wspilots.com/pafiledb.php?action=category <http://library.wspilots.com/pafiledb.php?action=category&id=3> &id=3 Ross MN Considering a Q200 Project. --- REBECCA SIMPSON <rebeccaandtad_simpson@...> wrote: Ross, __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Quickie Builders Association WEB site http://www.quickiebuilders.org _____ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Q-LIST-unsubscribe@... <mailto:Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe> * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Service.
|
|
|
|
Re: SUBARU ENGINES
Reginald Clarke <airryder@...>
Hello Damian
I have an engine mount that goes with EA81 Subaru. I have a cowling for my Q2 .I haven't made mould, Reg Clarke On 10-Apr-05, at 4:13 PM, damiantwinsport@... wrote: Reg, Do you have prints or engine mounts for sale to fit a Q200? What[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
|
|
|
Re: need a way to determine canard
Larry Severson
At 08:28 PM 4/10/2005 -0400, you wrote:
I am considering acquiring a Q2 airframe. The owner does not know whetherYes, the GU looks about 2X the thickness of the wing (really fat). The LS1 looks about the same thickness as the wing. Larry Severson Fountain Valley, CA 92708 (714) 968-9852 larry2@...
|
|
|
|
need a way to determine canard
Copeland <datcope@...>
I am considering acquiring a Q2 airframe. The owner does not know whether it is a Gu canard or a LS1. Is there an easy way for him to determine which it is?
Todd Copeland
|
|
|
|
The files are gone
Leon <leon@...>
Thought I might let everyone know that I let my former site where I had
parked some Q relevant files expire. As of yesterday they and my old E- mail address no longer exist. I will try to get the files reposted to my new space soon. In the mean time please note my new E-mail address and take whatever measure you see fit............... ======================== Leon McAtee Q-1 builder and former Q-2 builder but sanding on my Duster today Rocky Mountains USA Leon@...
|
|
|
|
Re: SUBARU ENGINES
damiantwinsport@...
Reg, Do you have prints or engine mounts for sale to fit a Q200? What about cowlings?
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Regards, Damian Gregory N8427 Q 200 under repair{ with a very wounded O200 }
-----Original Message-----
From: Reginald Clarke <airryder@...> To: Q-LIST@... Sent: Fri, 8 Apr 2005 19:50:05 -0600 Subject: [Q-LIST] SUBARU ENGINES I have TWO engines for sale ONE- firewall forward EA81 NEW REMANIFACTURED Bye AIR-RYDER 100 HP Direct drive turbocharged. Same set up as I had in my dragonfly. $7500.OO U.S Two- a New 2.5 Legacy engine with 10 miles on it. 150 HP DIRECT DRIVE, turbocharged. single overhead cam. I bought Three putting one in my Q2.I sold one and have one for sale A rail car tipped over on the way to car dealer and I bought three engines. I have flown over 800 HRS with SUBARUS DIRECT DRIVE TURBOCHARGED in my DRAGONFLY. $5500.00 U.S Reg Clarke---building Q2 SUBARU Lethbridge ,AB.CANADA 403-331-1301 Quickie Builders Association WEB site http://www.quickiebuilders.org Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|
|
Re: Q-200 Microsoft Flight Simulator 2004
Ross Christenson <r_christenson@...>
To download the Q200 I used:
http://library.wspilots.com/pafiledb.php?action=category&id=3 Ross MN Considering a Q200 Project. --- REBECCA SIMPSON <rebeccaandtad_simpson@...> wrote: Ross, __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
|
|
|
|
Re: Q-200 What to look for when buying?
HawkiDoug <hawkidoug@...>
Some good reading on this subject can be found at Sam's site:
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
http://home.mchsi.com/~shoskins/wantQuickie.html Be sure you scan his whole site as it is a good one. Doug "Hawkeye" Humble www.asignabove.net Omaha NE N25974
----- Original Message -----
From: "R_Christenson" <r_christenson@...> To: <Q-LIST@...> Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 10:12 PM Subject: [Q-LIST] Q-200 What to look for when buying?
|
|
|
|
Re: Q-200 What to look for when buying?
REBECCA SIMPSON
Ross,
I have MS flight simulator - Where did you get a Q2 for it ? Tad Simpson N1007p R_Christenson <r_christenson@...> wrote: I have always wanted to build a Long-EZ but had never flown in one. I just got Microsoft Flight Simulator 2004 and down loaded the Long E-Z and the Quickie Q200. If this is anything close to real life I would rather build the Q200. Has anyone tried this flight simulator? I have been looking online at some of the Q200 for sale and I am unsure about how to tell if it was built correctly. How can you tell if it was built to specification? I worry about someone not putting the correct number of layers, sanding through some of them, delaminating, etc. What can I look for to be sure it was built to specification? One of the Q200's I was looking at is painted. Ross Christenson Minnesota Considering a Q200 project. Quickie Builders Association WEB site http://www.quickiebuilders.org --------------------------------- Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Q-LIST-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we.
|
|
|
|
Re: New Member and a Question
REBECCA SIMPSON
Robert,
I had a similar plan last year - ended up buying a project and renting a 172 for the lessons. Spent a lot of time looking for a good affordable cessna - Found a good project so I bought it and just rented the cessna for lessons. Lessons, and completed project with a rebuilt to new c90-12F for less than the 152's I was looking at. The project was once flying and I have it air worthy and in inspection/test flights in less than 8 months. Suggestions: Get a pre - med exam 1st and make sure that you will get the physical. If you get turned down you are done. My Dr was a pilot and actually said that he would give me the physical and if I failed would just write it up as annual- I passed so he did the full. Take lessons at a small town airport (cheaper, friendlier and committed) I took mine at Purdue and spent an extra thousand or more because they changed my instructor 4 times and you have to get the sign off from each (like taking many check rides) The time & money you loose hunting down a good cessna that would be a good time builder/trainer that will resell quickly could be the time it took to get lessons and locate the long term plane. ( I looked at several - days drive - expenses etc ) Make sure you have a nearby hanger and a back up before you get a plane. I had a verbal commitment at the local airport and bout a plane 3 weeks later and ended up rebuilding it at my vacation home 300 miles away and then hauling it closer to home (another $500 over the $1000 delivery fee). It is now in a hanger 80 miles from home but I moved from 7th to 1st on the wait list at the airport near work (30 miles) I bought the plane - then took lesson and rebuilt concurrently - having read many cases of 17 year projects I wanted to commit and follow through before the life events took over and all was gone. It took about 6 months for the family to loose their enthusiasm and support and that really slows down progress.. Check the old posts here and on the dragonfly list . You can see a lot of good, bad and ugly from other builders or flyers. Tail dragger vs trike, GU vs LS1, vortex generators etc... Good Luck. Tad Simpson N1007p Robert Bounds <rebounds@...> wrote: Plan would be to buy a 150/152/172, learn to fly and get a license, sell the Cessna and buy a canard. I've been looking at the Q-200, Tri-Q200, and Cozy. Mission is to fly my wife and me (5'6, 180' and 5'2, 100') to see the grand kids four times a year (1,000 miles one way). Speed is more important than economy. There is also a restaurant we like a lot (Gaston's) with a 3,000' grass field that we'd like to fly into once a month for dinner. It's about 30 miles from Calico Rock. There is an asphalt strip in Calico Rock that I could use if grass strips and these planes are incompatible. Anyone have any insight for me on Q-200 vs. Tri-Q vs. Cozy? Also, critique my plan please! Thanks in advance. I'll take a stab at this. Probably get flamed good-n-plenty. If you are going into a grass strip, I don't think you want a canard. By nature, they land fast and most have pretty small tires. Some guys fly them out of grass strips but they're mostly pavement planes. If you plan on long trips with two people with a fair load of luggage, and are set on a canard, I'd go with a Cozy. This is simply a matter of horsepower. Most Cozy's have a 160 in them and will pick up a bigger load. It's a bigger plane with more motor, simple as that. Your wife and you are fairly small so you might get along okay with a Q-200. In my limited experience flying them both, the Cozy is a more stable but the Q is more fun to fly. Fun to fly is relative. Both of them are worlds apart from a Cessna. I'd learn to fly in a Cessna or a Cherokee and mooch rides in the canard types you're interested in and then get serious about buying one. Don't ever be afraid to go up and ask for a ride in any canard. Most are flown by nice guys that would just love to give you a ride. Fly in more than one of each type, they're all a little different. My qualifications for this one data point of pure opinion are these. I've built and flown a Q-1 and a Vari-eze. Ridden in Q-200's and Dragon-fly's. Helped to build two RV's and flown them. I hate to say it but they are better grass airplanes. (Lot's more money, too) Learn to fly first and fly every type you get a chance at and enjoy them all. R Bounds Quickie Builders Association WEB site http://www.quickiebuilders.org --------------------------------- Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Q-LIST-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
|
|
|
|
Re: New Member and a Question
Robert Bounds
Plan would be to buy a 150/152/172, learn to fly and get a license,
sell the Cessna and buy a canard. I've been looking at the Q-200, Tri-Q200, and Cozy. Mission is to fly my wife and me (5'6, 180' and 5'2, 100') to see the grand kids four times a year (1,000 miles one way). Speed is more important than economy. There is also a restaurant we like a lot (Gaston's) with a 3,000' grass field that we'd like to fly into once a month for dinner. It's about 30 miles from Calico Rock. There is an asphalt strip in Calico Rock that I could use if grass strips and these planes are incompatible. Anyone have any insight for me on Q-200 vs. Tri-Q vs. Cozy? Also, critique my plan please! Thanks in advance. I'll take a stab at this. Probably get flamed good-n-plenty. If you are going into a grass strip, I don't think you want a canard. By nature, they land fast and most have pretty small tires. Some guys fly them out of grass strips but they're mostly pavement planes. If you plan on long trips with two people with a fair load of luggage, and are set on a canard, I'd go with a Cozy. This is simply a matter of horsepower. Most Cozy's have a 160 in them and will pick up a bigger load. It's a bigger plane with more motor, simple as that. Your wife and you are fairly small so you might get along okay with a Q-200. In my limited experience flying them both, the Cozy is a more stable but the Q is more fun to fly. Fun to fly is relative. Both of them are worlds apart from a Cessna. I'd learn to fly in a Cessna or a Cherokee and mooch rides in the canard types you're interested in and then get serious about buying one. Don't ever be afraid to go up and ask for a ride in any canard. Most are flown by nice guys that would just love to give you a ride. Fly in more than one of each type, they're all a little different. My qualifications for this one data point of pure opinion are these. I've built and flown a Q-1 and a Vari-eze. Ridden in Q-200's and Dragon-fly's. Helped to build two RV's and flown them. I hate to say it but they are better grass airplanes. (Lot's more money, too) Learn to fly first and fly every type you get a chance at and enjoy them all. R Bounds
|
|
|
|
Q-200 What to look for when buying?
R_Christenson <r_christenson@...>
I have always wanted to build a Long-EZ but had never flown in one. I
just got Microsoft Flight Simulator 2004 and down loaded the Long E-Z and the Quickie Q200. If this is anything close to real life I would rather build the Q200. Has anyone tried this flight simulator? I have been looking online at some of the Q200 for sale and I am unsure about how to tell if it was built correctly. How can you tell if it was built to specification? I worry about someone not putting the correct number of layers, sanding through some of them, delaminating, etc. What can I look for to be sure it was built to specification? One of the Q200's I was looking at is painted. Ross Christenson Minnesota Considering a Q200 project.
|
|
|
|
MacDill AFB airfare
Mike Dwyer <mdwyer@...>
Hey Guys,
Went to an airshow at MacDill AFB Tampa, FL today. It was great but a special speaker was the Navigator, Capt. Theodore J. Van Kirk from the Enola Gay. Living history that you may be interested in... See the following website. http://www.theenolagay.com/ More on Van Kirk: http://home.att.net/~sallyann4/secret-mission.html MacDill website: http://public.macdill.amc.af.mil/airfest/ Enjoy, Mike Q-200 '
|
|
|
|
Re: SUBARU ENGINES
James Postma <james@...>
Please let us know when the Q2 flys.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
James Postma
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reginald Clarke" <airryder@...> To: <Q-LIST@...> Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 6:50 PM Subject: [Q-LIST] SUBARU ENGINES
|
|
|
|
SUBARU ENGINES
Reginald Clarke <airryder@...>
I have TWO engines for sale
ONE- firewall forward EA81 NEW REMANIFACTURED Bye AIR-RYDER 100 HP Direct drive turbocharged. Same set up as I had in my dragonfly. $7500.OO U.S Two- a New 2.5 Legacy engine with 10 miles on it. 150 HP DIRECT DRIVE, turbocharged. single overhead cam. I bought Three putting one in my Q2.I sold one and have one for sale A rail car tipped over on the way to car dealer and I bought three engines. I have flown over 800 HRS with SUBARUS DIRECT DRIVE TURBOCHARGED in my DRAGONFLY. $5500.00 U.S Reg Clarke---building Q2 SUBARU Lethbridge ,AB.CANADA 403-331-1301
|
|
|
|
Re: Oil SepArator
David Chalmers <David@...>
Jim, I don't think I'll make it to Laughlin this year. I just got done with the yearly maintenance including replacing the engine instruments with an engine monitor (grand rapids EIS4000) and changing to a capacitive fuel level sensor. Still have to get it back to the airport and tested. Don't think it's going to happen in time. Thanks for the offer though - it would be fun to fly over as a group.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Dave Chalmers TriQ200 N4016G (200 hrs) Redmond, WA
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Patillo [mailto:logistics_engineering@...] Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 11:22 AM To: Q-LIST@... Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Oil SepArator Dave, I originally had the return from seperator dumping back into my oil tank but did not want that nasty used "stuff" back in my engine. I too still have that capability but choose not to use it. Are you going to Laughlin? If so do you wnat to go with us from LVK? Jim P. --- In Q-LIST@..., "David Chalmers" <David@C...> wrote: used to take the drain tube into a plastic bottle mounted in a couple of pipe clips on the firewall. The tube was just a loose fit in the top of the bottle and it never spilled in flight. Bottle is a small shampoo bottle I think - about 6" high and 2" diameter. Draining the bottle became a chore but it was useful to be able to measure how much oil was being blown out. I welded a 1/4" tube to the oil filler neck and connected the drain tube to it - no more bottle emptying required. (Yes, I have read all the pros and cons of putting the oil back in the sump). The bottle holder is still there so if I ever want to measure the output I can stick it in the bottle for a few hours but I prefer the no-maintenance drain to the sump. The 5/8" breather line flows into and through the seperator as usualand exits bottom pax side.mounted just under the dip stick tube. It is easily removable with onehand for draining. This works really slick. I dump it every 7-10 hoursa 1/2 sized Fred Flintstone microwaveable bottle. (Prettysofisticated huh?) It comes with a nipple and solid top. Throw away the nipplehole in the solid top to accept plastic barbed fitting. Screw barbedcrankcase ventedT"to? Is the baby bottle sealed tight? lineinline in the breather tube. The 5/8" line then ran through anantikickback valve into the 4:1 header at the collector. The 3/8" tubefrom the "T" went to a pvc valve installed in the intake spyder.crystalized bottleoverboard but put the return line into a microwaveable baby from(1/2 size) with barbed plastic fitting and clear 3/8" tubing whileseparator to baby bottle. This has worked great for quite a aboutnow with no oil on the belly. I installed the baby bottle justbelowthe oil stick and empty it every 10 hours or so. Usually get 1theOZ. inoilseparator and then burning the output oil from the separator http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/fenton.htm#carb_partstheexhaust. My question is how did you do it. Specifically whydoesn'tthe exhaust get into the crankcase? allpumpRemove the cam gear and any parts associated with the vacuumdrive. The vac pump gear acts like a big fan and will blow oftheoil of the engine at high rpm. Quickie Builders Association WEB site http://www.quickiebuilders.org Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|
|
Re: Oil SepArator
Dave,
I originally had the return from seperator dumping back into my oil tank but did not want that nasty used "stuff" back in my engine. I too still have that capability but choose not to use it. Are you going to Laughlin? If so do you wnat to go with us from LVK? Jim P. --- In Q-LIST@..., "David Chalmers" <David@C...> wrote: used to take the drain tube into a plastic bottle mounted in a couple of pipe clips on the firewall. The tube was just a loose fit in the top of the bottle and it never spilled in flight. Bottle is a small shampoo bottle I think - about 6" high and 2" diameter. Draining the bottle became a chore but it was useful to be able to measure how much oil was being blown out. I welded a 1/4" tube to the oil filler neck and connected the drain tube to it - no more bottle emptying required. (Yes, I have read all the pros and cons of putting the oil back in the sump). The bottle holder is still there so if I ever want to measure the output I can stick it in the bottle for a few hours but I prefer the no-maintenance drain to the sump. The 5/8" breather line flows into and through the seperator as usualand exits bottom pax side.mounted just under the dip stick tube. It is easily removable with onehand for draining. This works really slick. I dump it every 7-10 hoursa 1/2 sized Fred Flintstone microwaveable bottle. (Prettysofisticated huh?) It comes with a nipple and solid top. Throw away the nipplehole in the solid top to accept plastic barbed fitting. Screw barbedcrankcase ventedT"to? Is the baby bottle sealed tight? lineinline in the breather tube. The 5/8" line then ran through anantikickback valve into the 4:1 header at the collector. The 3/8" tubefrom the "T" went to a pvc valve installed in the intake spyder.crystalized bottleoverboard but put the return line into a microwaveable baby from(1/2 size) with barbed plastic fitting and clear 3/8" tubing whileseparator to baby bottle. This has worked great for quite a aboutnow with no oil on the belly. I installed the baby bottle justbelowthe oil stick and empty it every 10 hours or so. Usually get 1theOZ. inoilseparator and then burning the output oil from the separator http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/fenton.htm#carb_partstheexhaust. My question is how did you do it. Specifically whydoesn'tthe exhaust get into the crankcase? allpumpRemove the cam gear and any parts associated with the vacuumdrive. The vac pump gear acts like a big fan and will blow oftheoil of the engine at high rpm.
|
|
|
|
Re: Oil SepArator
David Chalmers <David@...>
I have a firewall mounted oil separator (ACS homebuilder type). I used to take the drain tube into a plastic bottle mounted in a couple of pipe clips on the firewall. The tube was just a loose fit in the top of the bottle and it never spilled in flight. Bottle is a small shampoo bottle I think - about 6" high and 2" diameter. Draining the bottle became a chore but it was useful to be able to measure how much oil was being blown out. I welded a 1/4" tube to the oil filler neck and connected the drain tube to it - no more bottle emptying required. (Yes, I have read all the pros and cons of putting the oil back in the sump). The bottle holder is still there so if I ever want to measure the output I can stick it in the bottle for a few hours but I prefer the no-maintenance drain to the sump.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Dave Chalmers TriQ200 N4016G (200 hrs) Redmond, WA
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Patillo [mailto:logistics_engineering@...] Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 9:33 AM To: Q-LIST@... Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Oil Seperator Hi Sam, I do not use the standard seperator sold with the kit but one that is about 2" dia x 5" mounted behind the baffle on the pax side. The 5/8" breather line flows into and through the seperator as usual and exits bottom pax side. The bottle is mounted in a craddle (large Adel clamp mounted on firewall with safty wire basket twisted to make craddle)and mounted just under the dip stick tube. It is easily removable with one hand for draining. This works really slick. I dump it every 7-10 hours and by that time the bottle is 1/4" full. As far as the bottle goes, I went to a $$(dollar) store and bought a 1/2 sized Fred Flintstone microwaveable bottle. (Pretty sofisticated huh?) It comes with a nipple and solid top. Throw away the nipple unless you have some sort of fetish, otherwise keep it. Drill a hole in the solid top to accept plastic barbed fitting. Screw barbed fitting into top of solid cap and attach overflow tube from seperator. The cap is screwed on tight. This is a very simple solution to an oil problem (belly oil)with most all 0200's. Hope this helps! Jim P. --- In Q-LIST@..., "Sam Hoskins" <shoskins@m...> wrote: Jim, I like this idea. Just one question - where is the crankcasevented to? Is the baby bottle sealed tight?anti kickback valve into the 4:1 header at the collector. The 3/8" linecrystalized in the 3/8" stainless nipple at the collector and plugged.below the oil stick and empty it every 10 hours or so. Usually get about1 OZ.pump ofdrive. The vac pump gear acts like a big fan and will blow all theoil of the engine at high rpm. Quickie Builders Association WEB site http://www.quickiebuilders.org Yahoo! Groups Links
|
|
|
|
Re: Oil Seperator
Hi Sam,
I do not use the standard seperator sold with the kit but one that is about 2" dia x 5" mounted behind the baffle on the pax side. The 5/8" breather line flows into and through the seperator as usual and exits bottom pax side. The bottle is mounted in a craddle (large Adel clamp mounted on firewall with safty wire basket twisted to make craddle)and mounted just under the dip stick tube. It is easily removable with one hand for draining. This works really slick. I dump it every 7-10 hours and by that time the bottle is 1/4" full. As far as the bottle goes, I went to a $$(dollar) store and bought a 1/2 sized Fred Flintstone microwaveable bottle. (Pretty sofisticated huh?) It comes with a nipple and solid top. Throw away the nipple unless you have some sort of fetish, otherwise keep it. Drill a hole in the solid top to accept plastic barbed fitting. Screw barbed fitting into top of solid cap and attach overflow tube from seperator. The cap is screwed on tight. This is a very simple solution to an oil problem (belly oil)with most all 0200's. Hope this helps! Jim P. --- In Q-LIST@..., "Sam Hoskins" <shoskins@m...> wrote: Jim, I like this idea. Just one question - where is the crankcasevented to? Is the baby bottle sealed tight?anti kickback valve into the 4:1 header at the collector. The 3/8" linecrystalized in the 3/8" stainless nipple at the collector and plugged.below the oil stick and empty it every 10 hours or so. Usually get about1 OZ.pump ofdrive. The vac pump gear acts like a big fan and will blow all theoil of the engine at high rpm.
|
|
|