Date   

Re: Q-200 What to look for when buying?

HawkiDoug <hawkidoug@...>
 

Some good reading on this subject can be found at Sam's site:

http://home.mchsi.com/~shoskins/wantQuickie.html

Be sure you scan his whole site as it is a good one.

Doug "Hawkeye" Humble
www.asignabove.net
Omaha NE
N25974

----- Original Message -----
From: "R_Christenson" <r_christenson@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 10:12 PM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Q-200 What to look for when buying?




I have always wanted to build a Long-EZ but had never flown in one. I
just got Microsoft Flight Simulator 2004 and down loaded the Long E-Z
and the Quickie Q200. If this is anything close to real life I would
rather build the Q200. Has anyone tried this flight simulator?

I have been looking online at some of the Q200 for sale and I am
unsure about how to tell if it was built correctly. How can you tell
if it was built to specification? I worry about someone not putting
the correct number of layers, sanding through some of them,
delaminating, etc. What can I look for to be sure it was built to
specification? One of the Q200's I was looking at is painted.

Ross Christenson
Minnesota
Considering a Q200 project.







Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links








Re: Q-200 What to look for when buying?

REBECCA SIMPSON
 

Ross,
I have MS flight simulator - Where did you get a Q2 for it ?
Tad Simpson
N1007p

R_Christenson <r_christenson@...> wrote:

I have always wanted to build a Long-EZ but had never flown in one. I
just got Microsoft Flight Simulator 2004 and down loaded the Long E-Z
and the Quickie Q200. If this is anything close to real life I would
rather build the Q200. Has anyone tried this flight simulator?

I have been looking online at some of the Q200 for sale and I am
unsure about how to tell if it was built correctly. How can you tell
if it was built to specification? I worry about someone not putting
the correct number of layers, sanding through some of them,
delaminating, etc. What can I look for to be sure it was built to
specification? One of the Q200's I was looking at is painted.

Ross Christenson
Minnesota
Considering a Q200 project.






Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





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Re: New Member and a Question

REBECCA SIMPSON
 

Robert,
I had a similar plan last year - ended up buying a project and renting a 172 for the lessons.
Spent a lot of time looking for a good affordable cessna - Found a good project so I bought it and just rented the cessna for lessons. Lessons, and completed project with a rebuilt to new c90-12F for less than the 152's I was looking at. The project was once flying and I have it air worthy and in inspection/test flights in less than 8 months.

Suggestions:
Get a pre - med exam 1st and make sure that you will get the physical. If you get turned down you are done. My Dr was a pilot and actually said that he would give me the physical and if I failed would just write it up as annual- I passed so he did the full.

Take lessons at a small town airport (cheaper, friendlier and committed) I took mine at Purdue and spent an extra thousand or more because they changed my instructor 4 times and you have to get the sign off from each (like taking many check rides)

The time & money you loose hunting down a good cessna that would be a good time builder/trainer that will resell quickly could be the time it took to get lessons and locate the long term plane. ( I looked at several - days drive - expenses etc )

Make sure you have a nearby hanger and a back up before you get a plane. I had a verbal commitment at the local airport and bout a plane 3 weeks later and ended up rebuilding it at my vacation home 300 miles away and then hauling it closer to home (another $500 over the $1000 delivery fee). It is now in a hanger 80 miles from home but I moved from 7th to 1st on the wait list at the airport near work (30 miles)

I bought the plane - then took lesson and rebuilt concurrently - having read many cases of 17 year projects I wanted to commit and follow through before the life events took over and all was gone. It took about 6 months for the family to loose their enthusiasm and support and that really slows down progress..

Check the old posts here and on the dragonfly list . You can see a lot of good, bad and ugly from other builders or flyers. Tail dragger vs trike, GU vs LS1, vortex generators etc...
Good Luck.
Tad Simpson
N1007p

Robert Bounds <rebounds@...> wrote:
Plan would be to buy a 150/152/172, learn to fly and get a license,
sell the Cessna and buy a canard.

I've been looking at the Q-200, Tri-Q200, and Cozy. Mission is to fly
my wife and me (5'6, 180' and 5'2, 100') to see the grand kids four
times a year (1,000 miles one way). Speed is more important than
economy. There is also a restaurant we like a lot (Gaston's) with a
3,000' grass field that we'd like to fly into once a month for dinner.
It's about 30 miles from Calico Rock.

There is an asphalt strip in Calico Rock that I could use if grass
strips and these planes are incompatible.

Anyone have any insight for me on Q-200 vs. Tri-Q vs. Cozy? Also,
critique my plan please! Thanks in advance.


I'll take a stab at this. Probably get flamed good-n-plenty. If you are going into a grass strip, I don't think you want a canard. By nature, they land fast and most have pretty small tires. Some guys fly them out of grass strips but they're mostly pavement planes. If you plan on long trips with two people with a fair load of luggage, and are set on a canard, I'd go with a Cozy. This is simply a matter of horsepower. Most Cozy's have a 160 in them and will pick up a bigger load. It's a bigger plane with more motor, simple as that. Your wife and you are fairly small so you might get along okay with a Q-200. In my limited experience flying them both, the Cozy is a more stable but the Q is more fun to fly. Fun to fly is relative. Both of them are worlds apart from a Cessna. I'd learn to fly in a Cessna or a Cherokee and mooch rides in the canard types you're interested in and then get serious about buying one. Don't ever be afraid to go up and ask for a ride in any canard.
Most are flown by nice guys that would just love to give you a ride. Fly in more than one of each type, they're all a little different. My qualifications for this one data point of pure opinion are these. I've built and flown a Q-1 and a Vari-eze. Ridden in Q-200's and Dragon-fly's. Helped to build two RV's and flown them. I hate to say it but they are better grass airplanes. (Lot's more money, too) Learn to fly first and fly every type you get a chance at and enjoy them all.
R Bounds





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http://www.quickiebuilders.org





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Re: New Member and a Question

Robert Bounds
 

Plan would be to buy a 150/152/172, learn to fly and get a license,
sell the Cessna and buy a canard.

I've been looking at the Q-200, Tri-Q200, and Cozy. Mission is to fly
my wife and me (5'6, 180' and 5'2, 100') to see the grand kids four
times a year (1,000 miles one way). Speed is more important than
economy. There is also a restaurant we like a lot (Gaston's) with a
3,000' grass field that we'd like to fly into once a month for dinner.
It's about 30 miles from Calico Rock.

There is an asphalt strip in Calico Rock that I could use if grass
strips and these planes are incompatible.

Anyone have any insight for me on Q-200 vs. Tri-Q vs. Cozy? Also,
critique my plan please! Thanks in advance.


I'll take a stab at this. Probably get flamed good-n-plenty. If you are going into a grass strip, I don't think you want a canard. By nature, they land fast and most have pretty small tires. Some guys fly them out of grass strips but they're mostly pavement planes. If you plan on long trips with two people with a fair load of luggage, and are set on a canard, I'd go with a Cozy. This is simply a matter of horsepower. Most Cozy's have a 160 in them and will pick up a bigger load. It's a bigger plane with more motor, simple as that. Your wife and you are fairly small so you might get along okay with a Q-200. In my limited experience flying them both, the Cozy is a more stable but the Q is more fun to fly. Fun to fly is relative. Both of them are worlds apart from a Cessna. I'd learn to fly in a Cessna or a Cherokee and mooch rides in the canard types you're interested in and then get serious about buying one. Don't ever be afraid to go up and ask for a ride in any canard. Most are flown by nice guys that would just love to give you a ride. Fly in more than one of each type, they're all a little different. My qualifications for this one data point of pure opinion are these. I've built and flown a Q-1 and a Vari-eze. Ridden in Q-200's and Dragon-fly's. Helped to build two RV's and flown them. I hate to say it but they are better grass airplanes. (Lot's more money, too) Learn to fly first and fly every type you get a chance at and enjoy them all.
R Bounds


Q-200 What to look for when buying?

R_Christenson <r_christenson@...>
 

I have always wanted to build a Long-EZ but had never flown in one. I
just got Microsoft Flight Simulator 2004 and down loaded the Long E-Z
and the Quickie Q200. If this is anything close to real life I would
rather build the Q200. Has anyone tried this flight simulator?

I have been looking online at some of the Q200 for sale and I am
unsure about how to tell if it was built correctly. How can you tell
if it was built to specification? I worry about someone not putting
the correct number of layers, sanding through some of them,
delaminating, etc. What can I look for to be sure it was built to
specification? One of the Q200's I was looking at is painted.

Ross Christenson
Minnesota
Considering a Q200 project.


MacDill AFB airfare

Mike Dwyer <mdwyer@...>
 

Hey Guys,
Went to an airshow at MacDill AFB Tampa, FL today. It was great but a special speaker was the Navigator,

Capt. Theodore J. Van Kirk

from the Enola Gay. Living history that you may be interested in... See the following website.
http://www.theenolagay.com/

More on Van Kirk: http://home.att.net/~sallyann4/secret-mission.html

MacDill website: http://public.macdill.amc.af.mil/airfest/


Enjoy,
Mike Q-200


'


Re: SUBARU ENGINES

James Postma <james@...>
 

Please let us know when the Q2 flys.

James Postma

----- Original Message -----
From: "Reginald Clarke" <airryder@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 6:50 PM
Subject: [Q-LIST] SUBARU ENGINES



I have TWO engines for sale
ONE- firewall forward EA81 NEW REMANIFACTURED Bye AIR-RYDER
100 HP Direct drive turbocharged. Same set up as I had in my dragonfly.
$7500.OO U.S
Two- a New 2.5 Legacy engine with 10 miles on it.
150 HP DIRECT DRIVE, turbocharged.
single overhead cam. I bought Three putting one in my Q2.I sold one
and have one for sale
A rail car tipped over on the way to car dealer and I bought three
engines.

I have flown over 800 HRS with SUBARUS DIRECT DRIVE TURBOCHARGED in my
DRAGONFLY.
$5500.00 U.S

Reg Clarke---building Q2 SUBARU
Lethbridge ,AB.CANADA
403-331-1301




Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links







SUBARU ENGINES

Reginald Clarke <airryder@...>
 

I have TWO engines for sale
ONE- firewall forward EA81 NEW REMANIFACTURED Bye AIR-RYDER
100 HP Direct drive turbocharged. Same set up as I had in my dragonfly.
$7500.OO U.S
Two- a New 2.5 Legacy engine with 10 miles on it.
150 HP DIRECT DRIVE, turbocharged.
single overhead cam. I bought Three putting one in my Q2.I sold one and have one for sale
A rail car tipped over on the way to car dealer and I bought three engines.

I have flown over 800 HRS with SUBARUS DIRECT DRIVE TURBOCHARGED in my DRAGONFLY.
$5500.00 U.S

Reg Clarke---building Q2 SUBARU
Lethbridge ,AB.CANADA
403-331-1301


Re: Oil SepArator

David Chalmers <David@...>
 

Jim, I don't think I'll make it to Laughlin this year. I just got done with the yearly maintenance including replacing the engine instruments with an engine monitor (grand rapids EIS4000) and changing to a capacitive fuel level sensor. Still have to get it back to the airport and tested. Don't think it's going to happen in time. Thanks for the offer though - it would be fun to fly over as a group.

Dave Chalmers
TriQ200 N4016G (200 hrs)
Redmond, WA

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Patillo [mailto:logistics_engineering@...]
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 11:22 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Oil SepArator

Dave,

I originally had the return from seperator dumping back into my oil
tank but did not want that nasty used "stuff" back in my engine. I
too still have that capability but choose not to use it.

Are you going to Laughlin? If so do you wnat to go with us from
LVK?

Jim P.
--- In Q-LIST@..., "David Chalmers" <David@C...> wrote:

I have a firewall mounted oil separator (ACS homebuilder type). I
used to take the drain tube into a plastic bottle mounted in a
couple of pipe clips on the firewall. The tube was just a loose fit
in the top of the bottle and it never spilled in flight. Bottle is a
small shampoo bottle I think - about 6" high and 2" diameter.
Draining the bottle became a chore but it was useful to be able to
measure how much oil was being blown out. I welded a 1/4" tube to
the oil filler neck and connected the drain tube to it - no more
bottle emptying required. (Yes, I have read all the pros and cons of
putting the oil back in the sump). The bottle holder is still there
so if I ever want to measure the output I can stick it in the bottle
for a few hours but I prefer the no-maintenance drain to the sump.

Dave Chalmers
TriQ200 N4016G (200 hrs)
Redmond, WA



-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Patillo [mailto:logistics_engineering@m...]
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 9:33 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Oil Seperator





Hi Sam,

I do not use the standard seperator sold with the kit but one that
is about 2" dia x 5" mounted behind the baffle on the pax side.
The
5/8" breather line flows into and through the seperator as usual
and
exits bottom pax side.

The bottle is mounted in a craddle (large Adel clamp mounted on
firewall with safty wire basket twisted to make craddle)and
mounted
just under the dip stick tube. It is easily removable with one
hand
for draining. This works really slick. I dump it every 7-10 hours
and by that time the bottle is 1/4" full.

As far as the bottle goes, I went to a $$(dollar) store and bought
a
1/2 sized Fred Flintstone microwaveable bottle. (Pretty
sofisticated
huh?) It comes with a nipple and solid top. Throw away the nipple
unless you have some sort of fetish, otherwise keep it. Drill a
hole
in the solid top to accept plastic barbed fitting. Screw barbed
fitting into top of solid cap and attach overflow tube from
seperator. The cap is screwed on tight.

This is a very simple solution to an oil problem (belly oil)with
most all 0200's.

Hope this helps!

Jim P.

--- In Q-LIST@..., "Sam Hoskins" <shoskins@m...> wrote:
Jim, I like this idea. Just one question - where is the
crankcase
vented
to? Is the baby bottle sealed tight?

Sam



_____

From: Jim Patillo [mailto:logistics_engineering@m...]
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 5:34 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Oil Seperator





Mike,

It was me. I removed the separator and installed a "5/8 to 3/8
T"
inline in the breather tube. The 5/8" line then ran through an
anti
kickback valve into the 4:1 header at the collector. The 3/8"
line
from the "T" went to a pvc valve installed in the intake spyder.

This set up worked great for about 25 hours then the oil
crystalized
in the 3/8" stainless nipple at the collector and plugged.
Eventually blowing the front seal, additionally allowing oil to
emerge from places you wouldn't even expect.

As a result, I came up with a new plan and solved the problem
completely. I put the separator back on, still venting a 5/8"
tube
overboard but put the return line into a microwaveable baby
bottle
(1/2 size) with barbed plastic fitting and clear 3/8" tubing
from
separator to baby bottle. This has worked great for quite a
while
now with no oil on the belly. I installed the baby bottle just
below
the oil stick and empty it every 10 hours or so. Usually get
about
1
OZ.

Its amazing what a fraction of that can do to the belly of your
plane.

I'm very happy with the result.

Jim P.


Mike Dwyer <mdwyer@t...> wrote:
Hey guys,
One of you wrote about taking the crankcase oil breather to
the
oil
separator and then burning the output oil from the separator
in
the
exhaust. My question is how did you do it. Specifically why
doesn't
the exhaust get into the crankcase?

I also found this interesting tidbit on the web.
From:
http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/fenton.htm#carb_parts
Remove the cam gear and any parts associated with the vacuum
pump
drive. The vac pump gear acts like a big fan and will blow
all
of
the
oil of the engine at high rpm.

I'm going to rip off my cam gear now!

Is anybody running without an oil separator?

Thanks,
Mike Q200




Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






_____

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* To visit your group on the web, go to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links





Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Oil SepArator

Jim Patillo
 

Dave,

I originally had the return from seperator dumping back into my oil
tank but did not want that nasty used "stuff" back in my engine. I
too still have that capability but choose not to use it.

Are you going to Laughlin? If so do you wnat to go with us from
LVK?

Jim P.
--- In Q-LIST@..., "David Chalmers" <David@C...> wrote:

I have a firewall mounted oil separator (ACS homebuilder type). I
used to take the drain tube into a plastic bottle mounted in a
couple of pipe clips on the firewall. The tube was just a loose fit
in the top of the bottle and it never spilled in flight. Bottle is a
small shampoo bottle I think - about 6" high and 2" diameter.
Draining the bottle became a chore but it was useful to be able to
measure how much oil was being blown out. I welded a 1/4" tube to
the oil filler neck and connected the drain tube to it - no more
bottle emptying required. (Yes, I have read all the pros and cons of
putting the oil back in the sump). The bottle holder is still there
so if I ever want to measure the output I can stick it in the bottle
for a few hours but I prefer the no-maintenance drain to the sump.

Dave Chalmers
TriQ200 N4016G (200 hrs)
Redmond, WA



-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Patillo [mailto:logistics_engineering@m...]
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 9:33 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Oil Seperator





Hi Sam,

I do not use the standard seperator sold with the kit but one that
is about 2" dia x 5" mounted behind the baffle on the pax side.
The
5/8" breather line flows into and through the seperator as usual
and
exits bottom pax side.

The bottle is mounted in a craddle (large Adel clamp mounted on
firewall with safty wire basket twisted to make craddle)and
mounted
just under the dip stick tube. It is easily removable with one
hand
for draining. This works really slick. I dump it every 7-10 hours
and by that time the bottle is 1/4" full.

As far as the bottle goes, I went to a $$(dollar) store and bought
a
1/2 sized Fred Flintstone microwaveable bottle. (Pretty
sofisticated
huh?) It comes with a nipple and solid top. Throw away the nipple
unless you have some sort of fetish, otherwise keep it. Drill a
hole
in the solid top to accept plastic barbed fitting. Screw barbed
fitting into top of solid cap and attach overflow tube from
seperator. The cap is screwed on tight.

This is a very simple solution to an oil problem (belly oil)with
most all 0200's.

Hope this helps!

Jim P.

--- In Q-LIST@..., "Sam Hoskins" <shoskins@m...> wrote:
Jim, I like this idea. Just one question - where is the
crankcase
vented
to? Is the baby bottle sealed tight?

Sam



_____

From: Jim Patillo [mailto:logistics_engineering@m...]
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 5:34 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Oil Seperator





Mike,

It was me. I removed the separator and installed a "5/8 to 3/8
T"
inline in the breather tube. The 5/8" line then ran through an
anti
kickback valve into the 4:1 header at the collector. The 3/8"
line
from the "T" went to a pvc valve installed in the intake spyder.

This set up worked great for about 25 hours then the oil
crystalized
in the 3/8" stainless nipple at the collector and plugged.
Eventually blowing the front seal, additionally allowing oil to
emerge from places you wouldn't even expect.

As a result, I came up with a new plan and solved the problem
completely. I put the separator back on, still venting a 5/8"
tube
overboard but put the return line into a microwaveable baby
bottle
(1/2 size) with barbed plastic fitting and clear 3/8" tubing
from
separator to baby bottle. This has worked great for quite a
while
now with no oil on the belly. I installed the baby bottle just
below
the oil stick and empty it every 10 hours or so. Usually get
about
1
OZ.

Its amazing what a fraction of that can do to the belly of your
plane.

I'm very happy with the result.

Jim P.


Mike Dwyer <mdwyer@t...> wrote:
Hey guys,
One of you wrote about taking the crankcase oil breather to
the
oil
separator and then burning the output oil from the separator
in
the
exhaust. My question is how did you do it. Specifically why
doesn't
the exhaust get into the crankcase?

I also found this interesting tidbit on the web.
From:
http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/fenton.htm#carb_parts
Remove the cam gear and any parts associated with the vacuum
pump
drive. The vac pump gear acts like a big fan and will blow
all
of
the
oil of the engine at high rpm.

I'm going to rip off my cam gear now!

Is anybody running without an oil separator?

Thanks,
Mike Q200




Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






_____

Yahoo! Groups Links

* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...
<mailto:Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe>

* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Terms of Service.








Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Oil SepArator

David Chalmers <David@...>
 

I have a firewall mounted oil separator (ACS homebuilder type). I used to take the drain tube into a plastic bottle mounted in a couple of pipe clips on the firewall. The tube was just a loose fit in the top of the bottle and it never spilled in flight. Bottle is a small shampoo bottle I think - about 6" high and 2" diameter. Draining the bottle became a chore but it was useful to be able to measure how much oil was being blown out. I welded a 1/4" tube to the oil filler neck and connected the drain tube to it - no more bottle emptying required. (Yes, I have read all the pros and cons of putting the oil back in the sump). The bottle holder is still there so if I ever want to measure the output I can stick it in the bottle for a few hours but I prefer the no-maintenance drain to the sump.

Dave Chalmers
TriQ200 N4016G (200 hrs)
Redmond, WA

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Patillo [mailto:logistics_engineering@...]
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 9:33 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Oil Seperator





Hi Sam,

I do not use the standard seperator sold with the kit but one that
is about 2" dia x 5" mounted behind the baffle on the pax side. The
5/8" breather line flows into and through the seperator as usual and
exits bottom pax side.

The bottle is mounted in a craddle (large Adel clamp mounted on
firewall with safty wire basket twisted to make craddle)and mounted
just under the dip stick tube. It is easily removable with one hand
for draining. This works really slick. I dump it every 7-10 hours
and by that time the bottle is 1/4" full.

As far as the bottle goes, I went to a $$(dollar) store and bought a
1/2 sized Fred Flintstone microwaveable bottle. (Pretty sofisticated
huh?) It comes with a nipple and solid top. Throw away the nipple
unless you have some sort of fetish, otherwise keep it. Drill a hole
in the solid top to accept plastic barbed fitting. Screw barbed
fitting into top of solid cap and attach overflow tube from
seperator. The cap is screwed on tight.

This is a very simple solution to an oil problem (belly oil)with
most all 0200's.

Hope this helps!

Jim P.

--- In Q-LIST@..., "Sam Hoskins" <shoskins@m...> wrote:
Jim, I like this idea. Just one question - where is the crankcase
vented
to? Is the baby bottle sealed tight?

Sam



_____

From: Jim Patillo [mailto:logistics_engineering@m...]
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 5:34 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Oil Seperator





Mike,

It was me. I removed the separator and installed a "5/8 to 3/8 T"
inline in the breather tube. The 5/8" line then ran through an
anti
kickback valve into the 4:1 header at the collector. The 3/8" line
from the "T" went to a pvc valve installed in the intake spyder.

This set up worked great for about 25 hours then the oil
crystalized
in the 3/8" stainless nipple at the collector and plugged.
Eventually blowing the front seal, additionally allowing oil to
emerge from places you wouldn't even expect.

As a result, I came up with a new plan and solved the problem
completely. I put the separator back on, still venting a 5/8" tube
overboard but put the return line into a microwaveable baby bottle
(1/2 size) with barbed plastic fitting and clear 3/8" tubing from
separator to baby bottle. This has worked great for quite a while
now with no oil on the belly. I installed the baby bottle just
below
the oil stick and empty it every 10 hours or so. Usually get about
1
OZ.

Its amazing what a fraction of that can do to the belly of your
plane.

I'm very happy with the result.

Jim P.


Mike Dwyer <mdwyer@t...> wrote:
Hey guys,
One of you wrote about taking the crankcase oil breather to the
oil
separator and then burning the output oil from the separator in
the
exhaust. My question is how did you do it. Specifically why
doesn't
the exhaust get into the crankcase?

I also found this interesting tidbit on the web.
From: http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/fenton.htm#carb_parts
Remove the cam gear and any parts associated with the vacuum
pump
drive. The vac pump gear acts like a big fan and will blow all
of
the
oil of the engine at high rpm.

I'm going to rip off my cam gear now!

Is anybody running without an oil separator?

Thanks,
Mike Q200




Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






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Re: Oil Seperator

Jim Patillo
 

Hi Sam,

I do not use the standard seperator sold with the kit but one that
is about 2" dia x 5" mounted behind the baffle on the pax side. The
5/8" breather line flows into and through the seperator as usual and
exits bottom pax side.

The bottle is mounted in a craddle (large Adel clamp mounted on
firewall with safty wire basket twisted to make craddle)and mounted
just under the dip stick tube. It is easily removable with one hand
for draining. This works really slick. I dump it every 7-10 hours
and by that time the bottle is 1/4" full.

As far as the bottle goes, I went to a $$(dollar) store and bought a
1/2 sized Fred Flintstone microwaveable bottle. (Pretty sofisticated
huh?) It comes with a nipple and solid top. Throw away the nipple
unless you have some sort of fetish, otherwise keep it. Drill a hole
in the solid top to accept plastic barbed fitting. Screw barbed
fitting into top of solid cap and attach overflow tube from
seperator. The cap is screwed on tight.

This is a very simple solution to an oil problem (belly oil)with
most all 0200's.

Hope this helps!

Jim P.

--- In Q-LIST@..., "Sam Hoskins" <shoskins@m...> wrote:
Jim, I like this idea. Just one question - where is the crankcase
vented
to? Is the baby bottle sealed tight?

Sam



_____

From: Jim Patillo [mailto:logistics_engineering@m...]
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 5:34 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Oil Seperator





Mike,

It was me. I removed the separator and installed a "5/8 to 3/8 T"
inline in the breather tube. The 5/8" line then ran through an
anti
kickback valve into the 4:1 header at the collector. The 3/8" line
from the "T" went to a pvc valve installed in the intake spyder.

This set up worked great for about 25 hours then the oil
crystalized
in the 3/8" stainless nipple at the collector and plugged.
Eventually blowing the front seal, additionally allowing oil to
emerge from places you wouldn't even expect.

As a result, I came up with a new plan and solved the problem
completely. I put the separator back on, still venting a 5/8" tube
overboard but put the return line into a microwaveable baby bottle
(1/2 size) with barbed plastic fitting and clear 3/8" tubing from
separator to baby bottle. This has worked great for quite a while
now with no oil on the belly. I installed the baby bottle just
below
the oil stick and empty it every 10 hours or so. Usually get about
1
OZ.

Its amazing what a fraction of that can do to the belly of your
plane.

I'm very happy with the result.

Jim P.


Mike Dwyer <mdwyer@t...> wrote:
Hey guys,
One of you wrote about taking the crankcase oil breather to the
oil
separator and then burning the output oil from the separator in
the
exhaust. My question is how did you do it. Specifically why
doesn't
the exhaust get into the crankcase?

I also found this interesting tidbit on the web.
From: http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/fenton.htm#carb_parts
Remove the cam gear and any parts associated with the vacuum
pump
drive. The vac pump gear acts like a big fan and will blow all
of
the
oil of the engine at high rpm.

I'm going to rip off my cam gear now!

Is anybody running without an oil separator?

Thanks,
Mike Q200




Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






_____

Yahoo! Groups Links

* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...
<mailto:Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe>

* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Terms of Service.




Re: QBA Forum at Sun 'N Fun

a.shannon@...
 

Hello Joe
I hope your going to bring pictures of the construction you've done on your Q.
I look foreward to seeing you again and once again my plans changed, but for the
better, so my plane will be there fri and sat.
Roy Shannon
Q1, N3QS.

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: j.galletti@...


Re: New Member and a Question

James Doyle <jdoyle1941@...>
 

I think flying out of Gaston's in a Q will be marginal at best. I have a Tri-Q with a C-85 and I elected not to try it I landed at a strip north of there about 15 miles. Gaston's is a beautiful place but is down in a valley with power lines across one end of the strip. A 172 would be perfect for that type of strip.

Jim Doyle
N56DW

----- Original Message -----
From: "johnsilver20132" <johnajohnson@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 5:26 AM
Subject: [Q-LIST] New Member and a Question




Hi all. I'm a retired Air Force avionics maintenance guy,
specializing in autopilots, flight instruments, and navigation
equipment, troubleshooting on the bench, on the plane, and in the air.
Miscellaneous flying over the years in the right seat (Cessna 150,
KC-135, 141, 130), no takeoffs or landings.

Am retiring to the boonies (northern Arkansas, Calico Rock area) next
year and will try to find land suitable to hold a 3,000' grass runway.
Wife and I think it might be practical to fly ourselves around the
country visiting grand kids, etc., instead of driving or taking a
commercial. Our two routine destinations will be 1,000 miles
southeast, the other 1,000 miles west.

I want a canard, but will not attempt to build my own. The reason is
not laziness. I just know myself fairly well. I've always been good
with my hands, but sometimes take the easy way out and do things
half-assed, and I worry that I might be tempted to do this if building
a homebuilt. I'd rather find a plane, get it thoroughly checked out,
and have the piece of mind that it was put together correctly.

Plan would be to buy a 150/152/172, learn to fly and get a license,
sell the Cessna and buy a canard.

I've been looking at the Q-200, Tri-Q200, and Cozy. Mission is to fly
my wife and me (5'6, 180' and 5'2, 100') to see the grand kids four
times a year (1,000 miles one way). Speed is more important than
economy. There is also a restaurant we like a lot (Gaston's) with a
3,000' grass field that we'd like to fly into once a month for dinner.
It's about 30 miles from Calico Rock.

There is an asphalt strip in Calico Rock that I could use if grass
strips and these planes are incompatible.

Anyone have any insight for me on Q-200 vs. Tri-Q vs. Cozy? Also,
critique my plan please! Thanks in advance.






Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links









--
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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.4 - Release Date: 4/6/2005



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Re: Oil Seperator

Sam Hoskins <shoskins@...>
 

Jim, I like this idea. Just one question - where is the crankcase vented
to? Is the baby bottle sealed tight?

Sam



_____

From: Jim Patillo [mailto:logistics_engineering@...]
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 5:34 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Oil Seperator





Mike,

It was me. I removed the separator and installed a "5/8 to 3/8 T"
inline in the breather tube. The 5/8" line then ran through an anti
kickback valve into the 4:1 header at the collector. The 3/8" line
from the "T" went to a pvc valve installed in the intake spyder.

This set up worked great for about 25 hours then the oil crystalized
in the 3/8" stainless nipple at the collector and plugged.
Eventually blowing the front seal, additionally allowing oil to
emerge from places you wouldn't even expect.

As a result, I came up with a new plan and solved the problem
completely. I put the separator back on, still venting a 5/8" tube
overboard but put the return line into a microwaveable baby bottle
(1/2 size) with barbed plastic fitting and clear 3/8" tubing from
separator to baby bottle. This has worked great for quite a while
now with no oil on the belly. I installed the baby bottle just below
the oil stick and empty it every 10 hours or so. Usually get about 1
OZ.

Its amazing what a fraction of that can do to the belly of your
plane.

I'm very happy with the result.

Jim P.


Mike Dwyer <mdwyer@t...> wrote:
Hey guys,
One of you wrote about taking the crankcase oil breather to the
oil
separator and then burning the output oil from the separator in
the
exhaust. My question is how did you do it. Specifically why
doesn't
the exhaust get into the crankcase?

I also found this interesting tidbit on the web.
From: http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/fenton.htm#carb_parts
Remove the cam gear and any parts associated with the vacuum pump
drive. The vac pump gear acts like a big fan and will blow all of
the
oil of the engine at high rpm.

I'm going to rip off my cam gear now!

Is anybody running without an oil separator?

Thanks,
Mike Q200




Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






_____

Yahoo! Groups Links

* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...
<mailto:Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe>

* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Terms of Service.


Re: gross weight and cockpit width

Copeland <datcope@...>
 

Thanks everyone for the fast answers.
Todd Copeland


New Member and a Question

johnsilver20132 <johnajohnson@...>
 

Hi all. I'm a retired Air Force avionics maintenance guy,
specializing in autopilots, flight instruments, and navigation
equipment, troubleshooting on the bench, on the plane, and in the air.
Miscellaneous flying over the years in the right seat (Cessna 150,
KC-135, 141, 130), no takeoffs or landings.

Am retiring to the boonies (northern Arkansas, Calico Rock area) next
year and will try to find land suitable to hold a 3,000' grass runway.
Wife and I think it might be practical to fly ourselves around the
country visiting grand kids, etc., instead of driving or taking a
commercial. Our two routine destinations will be 1,000 miles
southeast, the other 1,000 miles west.

I want a canard, but will not attempt to build my own. The reason is
not laziness. I just know myself fairly well. I've always been good
with my hands, but sometimes take the easy way out and do things
half-assed, and I worry that I might be tempted to do this if building
a homebuilt. I'd rather find a plane, get it thoroughly checked out,
and have the piece of mind that it was put together correctly.

Plan would be to buy a 150/152/172, learn to fly and get a license,
sell the Cessna and buy a canard.

I've been looking at the Q-200, Tri-Q200, and Cozy. Mission is to fly
my wife and me (5'6, 180' and 5'2, 100') to see the grand kids four
times a year (1,000 miles one way). Speed is more important than
economy. There is also a restaurant we like a lot (Gaston's) with a
3,000' grass field that we'd like to fly into once a month for dinner.
It's about 30 miles from Calico Rock.

There is an asphalt strip in Calico Rock that I could use if grass
strips and these planes are incompatible.

Anyone have any insight for me on Q-200 vs. Tri-Q vs. Cozy? Also,
critique my plan please! Thanks in advance.


Re: gross weight and cockpit width

Paul Buckley
 

Officially, the Q200 all up weight is 1100 lbs and was never increased above this figure.
A lot of builders seem to fix their own max weight depending on what is convenient for them, but officially it is 1100 lbs.

The cockpit width is 42", supposedly the same as a Cessna 172.

Paul Buckley
Cheshire, England
TriQ-200
....still building.

----- Original Message -----
From: Copeland
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 3:12 AM
Subject: [Q-LIST] gross weight and cockpit width


New to the group. Couple of questions. I know that early in the Q200's history I know they were considering raising the gross weight to 1200 lbs, did this happen? Also, what is the cockpit width?
Thanks,
Todd Copeland





Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

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Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.4 - Release Date: 06/04/2005

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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.5 - Release Date: 07/04/2005


Re: N275CH passed its annual!!!!!!!

Bruce Crain
 

Kevin,
You are resourceful! Glad to hear you are near the 1st flight! I think you are going to be pleased with N27CH. It is fast!

Congrats "Big Guy"!
Bruce



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Re: gascolator

James Postma <james@...>
 

Yes Dave. I have the exact same setup and it works fine. You should shield
your gascolator with a baffle and wrap the exhaust pipes.

I have a facet pump rom the header tank to the carb same as the one used to transfer fuel from the main to the header. I also have a pressure regulator set to 1-1/2 psi for the engine pump. This came from a dyno test at Revmaser.

I run the engine pump during all ground operations, take off and landing and turn it off in cruise. I had some problems during taxi until I did the above. I never had a problem in flight.

I fill the header tank at the hangar and then turn the transfer pump off so the header is not full during take off. This reduces the chance that the fuel vent could fill with fuel.

You could remove the gascolator and make a T fitting for the primer line.

Hope this helps.

James Postma
N145EX

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Wall" <fourwalls@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 10:42 PM
Subject: [Q-LIST] gascolator




Hi All,
It has been suggested that I remove the gascolator ,but on closer
examination I see that my primer is drawing from there.The carb is an
Ellison efs-2.Does anyone else have this setup? Any direction or
suggestion greatly appreciated.

dave






Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


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