Date   

Re: Fuel filler problem and brake seals.

chris rayner <rayners@...>
 

My solution probably won't help you guys in the US, which is why I didn't post it. I bought from a local scrap yard, the fuel filler pipe (steel) and locking filler cap from a 1994 Leyland Metro - for 2.50. It has the right diameter and a 45 degree angle top - just right for me. I will glass it from the top to the tank, so replace the whole downpipe.

Coincidentally, the same car provides the gas struts for the forward opening canopy, so another 5 bought a good pair of those.

I hate to open the debate about brake fluid again, but is Peter's suggestion of ATM fluid definitive, or are there disadvantages?

Thanks
Chris

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Patillo" <logistics_engineering@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2005 11:45 PM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Fuel filler problem and brake seals.


Unsolicited!

Jerry,

I glassed 2"-2 1/2" steel muffler pipe nipples out of the header and
main and coupled between the two with Goodyear Fuel Hose. Has been
working perfectly for 5 years.

Regards,
Jim Patillo

P.S. Sam Kittle has just done this same mod so he can help you for
parts and where to get them.



--- In Q-LIST@..., Jerry Marstall <jnmarstall@b...> wrote:
Chris, thanks for the post on the PVC problem. I used PVC between
the
header tank and the main tank. Upon reading your post I checked
mine to
find soft spots as well. Thanks for taking the time to note your
problem so the rest of us could benefit. What kind of material are
you
using to replace the PVC?
Jerry Marstall

chris rayner wrote:

Guys, I found a problem which maybe only affects me, but maybe
not. Nearly twenty years ago, the original builder of my Q followed
an instruction in the builders manual and "trundled down to the local
plumbing store" and bought some PVC pipe which he built in the two
filler points.
Jump to present and I have had the fuselage upside down for a few
weeks while I work on the underside. There was a little fuel in the
tanks and this was sitting around the filler caps. After a while,
some drips appeared around the caps, so I tried to tighten them a
bit. I found that the PVC had gone very soft and distorted. The epoxy
is fine.
Maybe no-one else has used the PVC option, but maybe someone has
done and isn't aware there could be a problem. I am replacing the PVC
with metal - steel and aluminium.

After the discussions about brake fluid and seals etc a while ago,
I looked on the Shell website. I was a bit concerned that the BUNA
used by Airheart for the seals has poor compatibility with both types
a aircraft fluid (natural and synthetic). Has anyone had a problem
with the seals though?

Chris Rayner - still building; still learning....






Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links












Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links








Re: Fuel filler problem and brake seals.

Jim Patillo
 

Unsolicited!

Jerry,

I glassed 2"-2 1/2" steel muffler pipe nipples out of the header and
main and coupled between the two with Goodyear Fuel Hose. Has been
working perfectly for 5 years.

Regards,
Jim Patillo

P.S. Sam Kittle has just done this same mod so he can help you for
parts and where to get them.



--- In Q-LIST@..., Jerry Marstall <jnmarstall@b...> wrote:
Chris, thanks for the post on the PVC problem. I used PVC between
the
header tank and the main tank. Upon reading your post I checked
mine to
find soft spots as well. Thanks for taking the time to note your
problem so the rest of us could benefit. What kind of material are
you
using to replace the PVC?
Jerry Marstall

chris rayner wrote:

Guys, I found a problem which maybe only affects me, but maybe
not. Nearly twenty years ago, the original builder of my Q followed
an instruction in the builders manual and "trundled down to the local
plumbing store" and bought some PVC pipe which he built in the two
filler points.
Jump to present and I have had the fuselage upside down for a few
weeks while I work on the underside. There was a little fuel in the
tanks and this was sitting around the filler caps. After a while,
some drips appeared around the caps, so I tried to tighten them a
bit. I found that the PVC had gone very soft and distorted. The epoxy
is fine.
Maybe no-one else has used the PVC option, but maybe someone has
done and isn't aware there could be a problem. I am replacing the PVC
with metal - steel and aluminium.

After the discussions about brake fluid and seals etc a while ago,
I looked on the Shell website. I was a bit concerned that the BUNA
used by Airheart for the seals has poor compatibility with both types
a aircraft fluid (natural and synthetic). Has anyone had a problem
with the seals though?

Chris Rayner - still building; still learning....






Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links









Re: Fuel filler problem and brake seals.

Jerry Marstall <jnmarstall@...>
 

Chris, thanks for the post on the PVC problem. I used PVC between the header tank and the main tank. Upon reading your post I checked mine to find soft spots as well. Thanks for taking the time to note your problem so the rest of us could benefit. What kind of material are you using to replace the PVC?
Jerry Marstall

chris rayner wrote:

Guys, I found a problem which maybe only affects me, but maybe not. Nearly twenty years ago, the original builder of my Q followed an instruction in the builders manual and "trundled down to the local plumbing store" and bought some PVC pipe which he built in the two filler points. Jump to present and I have had the fuselage upside down for a few weeks while I work on the underside. There was a little fuel in the tanks and this was sitting around the filler caps. After a while, some drips appeared around the caps, so I tried to tighten them a bit. I found that the PVC had gone very soft and distorted. The epoxy is fine. Maybe no-one else has used the PVC option, but maybe someone has done and isn't aware there could be a problem. I am replacing the PVC with metal - steel and aluminium.

After the discussions about brake fluid and seals etc a while ago, I looked on the Shell website. I was a bit concerned that the BUNA used by Airheart for the seals has poor compatibility with both types a aircraft fluid (natural and synthetic). Has anyone had a problem with the seals though?

Chris Rayner - still building; still learning....





Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org

Yahoo! Groups Links







Re: Q-200 Microsoft Flight Simulator 2004

William Swearingen
 

Thank you. I am going out and getting x-plane to try it. By the way... who is the DF group and how do I get those files?

Thanks,
Bill Swearingen

REBECCA SIMPSON <rebeccaandtad_simpson@...> wrote:
I can get 2 versions flying just fine. I do not get 100% of the options available as you would in standard MSFS. Still flies like a cessna.
The DF group suggests X Plane and the DF they have created for it. They indicate it is more realistic. I could forward the fles later from my home pc ...
Tad

William Swearingen <william_van_swearingen@...> wrote:
Did you get all the kinks worked out? How do I get a copy of the file?

Thanks,
Bill Swearingen

larry severson <larry2@...> wrote:
At 03:39 PM 4/12/2005 +0000, you wrote:

How do I get a copy of your updated aircraft.cfg file?
I find that I need some more work. Last night it seemed on, but I am now
getting an 8 degree pitchbuck at 80MPH. with a TOW of 1100 pounds. I will
get it right, and make available to everyone.


Larry Severson
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
(714) 968-9852
larry2@...





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833 South 820 East
Spanish Fork, Utah
84660
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View my photos: Laughlin 2005

bfarnam@...
 

You're invited to view my online photos at the Gallery. Enjoy!

You're invited to view these photos online at Kodak Easyshare Gallery!
Just click on View Photos to get started.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=5bho7xg.u6cu0p0&x=1&y=lk6ex0

If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or
if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account.
Once you've signed in, you'll be able to view this
album whenever you want and order Kodak prints of
your favorite photos.

Enjoy!

Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're
an existing member you'll be asked to sign
in. If not, you can join the Gallery for free.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp

Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com.

------------------------------------------------
EASYSHARE Gallery Customer Service
http://help.kodakgallery.com/support
Phone: (800) 360-9098
Outside the US and Canada: (512) 651-9770
------------------------------------------------

If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the
following URL directly into your browser:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=5bho7xg.u6cu0p0&x=1&y=lk6ex0


Re: Exhaust System.

rondefly@...
 

Thanks Brad, this coating thing is getting interesting.

Ron T

Ron & Carolyn Triano Q-200 N4710P

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On Behalf Of
Brad/Iris Baerg
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 8:41 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.


----- Original Message -----
From: <rondefly@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 5:48 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.


Is this Ceramic coat a dipping process or did you just spray the exterior?

Ron:
Ceramic coatings best on sand blasted surfaces, are applied with a spray
gun,and
can be polished for a polished aluminum look. Engine compartment temps can
drop as much
as 30 to 50 degrees. The combustion chamber,pistons,valves and exhaust port
can also be coated
to drop engine temps (oil) around 40 to 60 degrees. If you have a sand
blaster and an oven you can do
it your self. Check it out at:
http://www.techlinecoatings.com/index.htm

Brad
Tri Q
CGTCA




Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





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Tandem Wing Yard Sale

Sam Hoskins <shoskins@...>
 

All,

Larry Koutz just listed some items that he may make available at the
up-coming Tandem Wing Spring Fling, May 20 and 22. I'll add to the pot:

For Sale: Q-2/Q-200 cockpit canopy, clear and uncut. $275.00.

If you guys bring stuff to sell, I may be able to set up a table or two to
display your wares.

Sam

http://home.mchsi.com/~shoskins/springfling.html


Fuel filler problem and brake seals.

chris rayner <rayners@...>
 

Guys, I found a problem which maybe only affects me, but maybe not. Nearly twenty years ago, the original builder of my Q followed an instruction in the builders manual and "trundled down to the local plumbing store" and bought some PVC pipe which he built in the two filler points.
Jump to present and I have had the fuselage upside down for a few weeks while I work on the underside. There was a little fuel in the tanks and this was sitting around the filler caps. After a while, some drips appeared around the caps, so I tried to tighten them a bit. I found that the PVC had gone very soft and distorted. The epoxy is fine.
Maybe no-one else has used the PVC option, but maybe someone has done and isn't aware there could be a problem. I am replacing the PVC with metal - steel and aluminium.

After the discussions about brake fluid and seals etc a while ago, I looked on the Shell website. I was a bit concerned that the BUNA used by Airheart for the seals has poor compatibility with both types a aircraft fluid (natural and synthetic). Has anyone had a problem with the seals though?

Chris Rayner - still building; still learning....


Re: Exhaust System.

JohntenHave <Jtenhave@...>
 

I have been following this thread with some interest and having faced
the same problem, decided that there had to be an easier way without
bending and without resorting to steel. Here is what I did.

I made a four into four exhaust for my long eze exiting inside the
cowling and found the easy way was to buy the 180 bends, the slip
joints, the flanges and straight lengths of 321 ss from AC Spruce.
You make life much easier if you start with virgin material.

I bought the springs from a motorcycle shop. To figure out where the
cuts went, I first bent alloy welding rod into the desired shape (
this defines / simulates the centerline of the pipe.)for each pipe.
If you have trouble visualising the finished product, you can feed
pipe diameter discs onto the welding rod to get a better feel for the
clearances.

I next made 2D cardboard patterns of the uncut bend segments and
the straight pipes. This meant that the pattern was consumed at the
same rate as the bends would be and allowed me to assess the angle of
the cut for the next piece. I offered them up to the engine, marked
and cut with a felt pen and then taped them up to the welding rod.
When I was happy with that option, I then started at the exhaust end,
bolted a flange up to the engine and cut the first tube using the
first cardboard pattern( straight into the slip joint), and part by
part cut and fitted each segment until it was done.

As I went, I stuck each part together with masking tape and put
reference marks on each joint. If it needed extra jigging, hot melt
glue and welding rod segments did the biz. Because this needed to
interact with other parts of the engine, I made sure that all the
parts were in place, and I double checked with the bottom cowl before
anything was welded. This included the heat muff and it's associated
ducting.

The next trick was to weld it all up and this was done by argon
backing the assembly ( block the ends with cardboard and tape, and
bleed argon through a small pipe into the inside of the job). Tack
it up, try it in place and then weld it.

The last part was to locate and attach lugs which the springs could
attach to. I cut these out of the pipe material and located them
such that I could still get a socket onto the exhaust nuts and offer
the whole assy up to the engine without interference.

No bending, custom formed 321 ss exhausts. Simple.






--- In Q-LIST@..., Mike Dwyer <mdwyer@t...> wrote:
Hey Qers.
I had written about putting together a stainless exhaust system
and ...
you were right, it is next to impossible to bend that stuff. It
appears
only the mandrel bend machines can touch it.

Now I'm thinking about using steel to make a 4 pipe system. Each
pipe
will exit at the bottom near the oil sump. I checked out this
place
that ceramic coats the pipes, $20 per foot. They say it keeps the
heat
in the pipes better. Does anyone here believe that or is it a
waste of
money?

Thanks,
Mike Q200


Re: Fuel filler problem and brake seals.

Peter Harris <peterjfharris@...>
 

Chris I was told by my original builder to use only ATM fluid as brake fluid will spoil the large O ring seals. I have used this for 15 years with absolutely no effect on the seals and this fluid is kind to paint and non corrosive. The brakes work fine.
Peter
<After the discussions about brake fluid and seals etc a while ago, I looked on the Shell website. I was a bit concerned that the BUNA used by Airheart for the seals has poor compatibility with both types a aircraft fluid (natural and synthetic). Has anyone had a problem with the seals though?

Chris Rayner - still building; still learning....>





Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
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Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

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Re: Tandem Wing Spring Fling approaching

L Koutz <koutzl@...>
 

I am going to be coming to the "Spring Fling" but I will be driving as, unfortunately, as my Corvair powered Q is not yet done.



I have a few aviation items that I wish to sell and can bring them along if someone has any interest. This is a list of the items.



Continental O-200A engine. This engine ran fine and had lots of power but I had low oil pressure and I decided to ground the engine. This is nearly a complete engine. The MA3-SPA carb I am using on the Corvair. One mag gear is gone and there is no starter. It was a pull start starter and I replaced it with a Sky-Tec starter so I had to cut off the pull start pivot. You will have to replace that part or buy the Sky-Tec starter or the B & C one that fits. The oil pump has been overhauled about 20 hours ago and didn't fix my low oil pressure situation.



Q-200 cowl This part was made from a my mold. This cowl is missing the lower area where the carb intake and carb would go. It is about 3-4 layers of glass and would have to be reinforced.



O-200 swing away engine mount. This engine mount allows the engine to swing out for maintenance. Also included is a removable mag box.



Lycoming style alt mounting bracket and pulleys. This allows a Nipendensu alt to be mounted to the fuel pump pad area of the Continental O-200 engine.



Subaru EJ-22 Engine. This engine is the basic core and I stripped most of the parts off to use it as an engine for the Q-200. I have most of the parts and I have a Don Paraham modified engine harness that allows this engine to run without all the excess wires. This engine has run on the new harness. The engine had over 100,000 miles on it when removed.



Prince P-Tip propeller suitable for the Continental O-200 I think it is a 58" diam X 68" pitch. This prop took my Q-200 to just shy of 200 MPH. Also included is a spinner for the prop.



Fiberglass air intake/ filter/carb heat part that fits the Q-200 Continental.



Various Continental O-200 gaskets



Continental O-200 accessory case.



Continental O-200 intake elbows.



If you have any interest in these parts please call me at 229-247-5297 or E-mail me at koutzl@...



I will not sell these parts at give away prices but something that is fair or if you have something to trade let me know. I am interested in:

Corvair engines, VW props, Mazada RX-7 RX-8 engines.



I don't know now when I will be leaving for the Spring Fling. It may be as much as a week prior to the event so if you are interested you need to get in touch with me early!



Larry Koutz


Re: Exhaust System.

Brad/Iris Baerg <brirbrg@...>
 

----- Original Message -----
From: <rondefly@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 5:48 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.


Is this Ceramic coat a dipping process or did you just spray the exterior?

Ron:
Ceramic coatings best on sand blasted surfaces, are applied with a spray gun,and
can be polished for a polished aluminum look. Engine compartment temps can drop as much
as 30 to 50 degrees. The combustion chamber,pistons,valves and exhaust port can also be coated
to drop engine temps (oil) around 40 to 60 degrees. If you have a sand blaster and an oven you can do
it your self. Check it out at:
http://www.techlinecoatings.com/index.htm

Brad
Tri Q
CGTCA


Re: [Dragonflylist] Laughlin

Patrick Panzera <panzera@...>
 

I flew into Jean a couple of years ago and I think it would be ideal. There
are nice places to stay right next to the field. We could do fly-by's and
maybe some kind of landing contest. The EZ group used to meet there and do
speed tests over the runway.
I'm liking it.

http://maps.google.com/maps?q=jean+nv&ll=35.773373,-115.326490&spn=0.027122,0.04
2400&t=k&hl=en

Left click (and hold) on the image and move your mouse to scroll around.

Pat


Re: q-200 building info. needed

Dorothea Keats and Chris Walterson <dkeats@...>
 

Brad------------ I have a complete Q-200 kit that has never been
started. It has all that's needed to build except the engine ,epoxi and
wheels. I am located in Geraldton Ontario Canada. I want 8,000
Canadian. This kit was worth 13,000 US in 1984. It comes with the carbon
fiber spars. I was gonna run a 2.5 turbocharged Subaru, but I have way
to may other project on the go. With the cost of the Subaru I figure I
could have a finished 200mph airplane for less than 20,000 Canadian. If
you're intersted give me a buzz. If you are not intersted and are
looking at a partially built aircraft, be very carefull. You never know
what you are getting. I have built and am flying a Super Quickie and a
Turbocharges Subaru Dragonlfy. Too may toys and no time.------------
Canada Chris


Re: Exhaust System.

Jim Patillo
 

--- In Q-LIST@..., Neil Jepsen <njepsen@i...> wrote:
Jim why did you do it twice? Did the first one fail or did you
want a
change of colour?
neil
rondefly@r... wrote:

Thanks Jim, I'll check it out.

Ron T

Ron & Carolyn Triano Q-200 N4710P

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On
Behalf
Of Jim
Patillo
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 7:32 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Exhaust System.


Ron,

There's a place in Redwood City that ceramic coats exhaust pipes
with
a process called Jet Hot. They wire clean the inside and outside
and
coat both sides. They mainly do racing headers but will do
airplanes.
My 4:1 cost $75.00 for the full monty. I've done mine twice. It
works very well.

Colors are white, black and aluminum.

Jim P.


Re: Exhaust System Reduex

Jim Patillo
 

Neil,

My 4:1 is steel. I did some welding on it and had the whole thing
recoated black this time. The coatings hold up well with no rust.

Jim P.

P.S. Ron I will try to find the supplier but have to go to my hangar
to get the address. Its between Redwood City and San Carlos at the
101 Freeway.

Jim Patillo


--- In Q-LIST@..., Neil Jepsen <njepsen@i...> wrote:
Jim why did you do it twice? Did the first one fail or did you
want a
change of colour?
neil
rondefly@r... wrote:

Thanks Jim, I'll check it out.

Ron T

Ron & Carolyn Triano Q-200 N4710P

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On
Behalf
Of Jim
Patillo
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 7:32 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Exhaust System.


Ron,

There's a place in Redwood City that ceramic coats exhaust pipes
with
a process called Jet Hot. They wire clean the inside and outside
and
coat both sides. They mainly do racing headers but will do
airplanes.
My 4:1 cost $75.00 for the full monty. I've done mine twice. It
works very well.

Colors are white, black and aluminum.

Jim P.

--- In Q-LIST@..., <rondefly@r...> wrote:
Is this Ceramic coat a dipping process or did you just spray
the
exterior?

Ron & Carolyn Triano Q-200 N4710P

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On
Behalf Of
Greg & Debbie Merrill
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 5:01 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.

Ditto!

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On
Behalf Of
Jerry Marstall
Sent: May 2, 2005 8:00 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.


I had it done for the 4 into 1 on my Revmaster. Not only did it
help
with heat reduction in the cowling, you don't have rusty pipes.
Jerry

Mike Dwyer wrote:

Hey Qers.
I had written about putting together a stainless exhaust
system
and ...
you were right, it is next to impossible to bend that stuff.
It
appears
only the mandrel bend machines can touch it.

Now I'm thinking about using steel to make a 4 pipe system.
Each
pipe
will exit at the bottom near the oil sump. I checked out this
place
that ceramic coats the pipes, $20 per foot. They say it keeps
the
heat
in the pipes better. Does anyone here believe that or is it a
waste of
money?

Thanks,
Mike Q200



Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links











Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


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Re: Exhaust System.

Jim Patillo
 

As I recall the white coating is 1300 degrees and the black
andaluminum is 2400 degrees.

Jim P

--- In Q-LIST@..., "Dave" <dave@h...> wrote:
Thanks! I had heard between $175 and $225 for the Revmaster pipes.

Jim got a good deal for only $75. Jim, Do you recall if you got
the
1300 or 2400 degree stuff?

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg & Debbie Merrill [mailto:q2pilot@r...]
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 4:14 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.

Dave
Don't recall the temperature rating as it was almost 7 years ago
when I
had
my pipes done. The finish is the standard silver(ish) color and as
I
recall,
the cost was around $175. They do nice work! Almost forgot, this
was for
the
Revmaster 2100D 4 into 1 exhaust system.

Greg

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On
Behalf Of
Dave
Sent: May 3, 2005 1:18 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.


Hi Greg,

Did you use the 1300 degree or the 2400 degree stuff?

Do you recall what you paid for them to do yours? (Q2 or Q200)?

Thanks,

Dave Richardson

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg & Debbie Merrill [mailto:q2pilot@r...]
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 1:10 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.

This is the place I used and they do nice work!

http://www.jet-hot.com/

Greg

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On
Behalf Of
rondefly@r...
Sent: May 3, 2005 8:49 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.


Is this Ceramic coat a dipping process or did you just spray the
exterior?

Ron & Carolyn Triano Q-200 N4710P

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On
Behalf Of
Greg & Debbie Merrill
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 5:01 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.

Ditto!

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On
Behalf Of
Jerry Marstall
Sent: May 2, 2005 8:00 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.


I had it done for the 4 into 1 on my Revmaster. Not only did it
help
with heat reduction in the cowling, you don't have rusty pipes.
Jerry

Mike Dwyer wrote:

Hey Qers.
I had written about putting together a stainless exhaust system
and ...
you were right, it is next to impossible to bend that stuff. It
appears
only the mandrel bend machines can touch it.

Now I'm thinking about using steel to make a 4 pipe system. Each
pipe
will exit at the bottom near the oil sump. I checked out this
place
that ceramic coats the pipes, $20 per foot. They say it keeps
the heat
in the pipes better. Does anyone here believe that or is it a
waste of
money?

Thanks,
Mike Q200



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http://www.quickiebuilders.org


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http://www.quickiebuilders.org


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Re: Exhaust System.

Neil Jepsen <njepsen@...>
 

Jim why did you do it twice? Did the first one fail or did you want a change of colour?
neil
rondefly@... wrote:

Thanks Jim, Ill check it out.

Ron T

Ron & Carolyn Triano Q-200 N4710P

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On Behalf Of Jim
Patillo
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 7:32 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Exhaust System.


Ron,

There's a place in Redwood City that ceramic coats exhaust pipes with
a process called Jet Hot. They wire clean the inside and outside and
coat both sides. They mainly do racing headers but will do airplanes.
My 4:1 cost $75.00 for the full monty. I've done mine twice. It
works very well.

Colors are white, black and aluminum.

Jim P.

--- In Q-LIST@..., <rondefly@r...> wrote:
Is this Ceramic coat a dipping process or did you just spray the
exterior?

Ron & Carolyn Triano Q-200 N4710P

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On
Behalf Of
Greg & Debbie Merrill
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 5:01 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.

Ditto!

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On
Behalf Of
Jerry Marstall
Sent: May 2, 2005 8:00 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.


I had it done for the 4 into 1 on my Revmaster. Not only did it
help
with heat reduction in the cowling, you don't have rusty pipes.
Jerry

Mike Dwyer wrote:

Hey Qers.
I had written about putting together a stainless exhaust system
and ...
you were right, it is next to impossible to bend that stuff. It
appears
only the mandrel bend machines can touch it.

Now I'm thinking about using steel to make a 4 pipe system. Each
pipe
will exit at the bottom near the oil sump. I checked out this
place
that ceramic coats the pipes, $20 per foot. They say it keeps the
heat
in the pipes better. Does anyone here believe that or is it a
waste of
money?

Thanks,
Mike Q200



Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links











Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links









Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





_____

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* To visit your group on the web, go to:
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<mailto:Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe>

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------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Re: Exhaust System.

rondefly@...
 

Jim, do you remember the name of the place in Redwood City? I could not find
it on the web.

Ron T

Ron & Carolyn Triano Q-200 N4710P

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On Behalf Of
Dave
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 1:49 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.

Thanks! I had heard between $175 and $225 for the Revmaster pipes.

Jim got a good deal for only $75. Jim, Do you recall if you got the
1300 or 2400 degree stuff?

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg & Debbie Merrill [mailto:q2pilot@...]
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 4:14 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.

Dave
Don't recall the temperature rating as it was almost 7 years ago when I
had
my pipes done. The finish is the standard silver(ish) color and as I
recall,
the cost was around $175. They do nice work! Almost forgot, this was for
the
Revmaster 2100D 4 into 1 exhaust system.

Greg

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On Behalf Of
Dave
Sent: May 3, 2005 1:18 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.


Hi Greg,

Did you use the 1300 degree or the 2400 degree stuff?

Do you recall what you paid for them to do yours? (Q2 or Q200)?

Thanks,

Dave Richardson

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg & Debbie Merrill [mailto:q2pilot@...]
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 1:10 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.

This is the place I used and they do nice work!

http://www.jet-hot.com/ <http://www.jet-hot.com/>

Greg

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On Behalf Of
rondefly@...
Sent: May 3, 2005 8:49 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.


Is this Ceramic coat a dipping process or did you just spray the
exterior?

Ron & Carolyn Triano Q-200 N4710P

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On Behalf Of
Greg & Debbie Merrill
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 5:01 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.

Ditto!

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On Behalf Of
Jerry Marstall
Sent: May 2, 2005 8:00 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.


I had it done for the 4 into 1 on my Revmaster. Not only did it help
with heat reduction in the cowling, you don't have rusty pipes.
Jerry

Mike Dwyer wrote:

Hey Qers.
I had written about putting together a stainless exhaust system and ...
you were right, it is next to impossible to bend that stuff. It
appears
only the mandrel bend machines can touch it.

Now I'm thinking about using steel to make a 4 pipe system. Each pipe
will exit at the bottom near the oil sump. I checked out this place
that ceramic coats the pipes, $20 per foot. They say it keeps the heat
in the pipes better. Does anyone here believe that or is it a waste of
money?

Thanks,
Mike Q200



Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org <http://www.quickiebuilders.org>


Yahoo! Groups Links











Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org <http://www.quickiebuilders.org>


Yahoo! Groups Links









Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org <http://www.quickiebuilders.org>





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<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> > .







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http://www.quickiebuilders.org <http://www.quickiebuilders.org>


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http://www.quickiebuilders.org <http://www.quickiebuilders.org>


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Re: Exhaust System.

Dave <dave@...>
 

Thanks! I had heard between $175 and $225 for the Revmaster pipes.

Jim got a good deal for only $75. Jim, Do you recall if you got the
1300 or 2400 degree stuff?

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg & Debbie Merrill [mailto:q2pilot@...]
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 4:14 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.

Dave
Don't recall the temperature rating as it was almost 7 years ago when I
had
my pipes done. The finish is the standard silver(ish) color and as I
recall,
the cost was around $175. They do nice work! Almost forgot, this was for
the
Revmaster 2100D 4 into 1 exhaust system.

Greg

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On Behalf Of
Dave
Sent: May 3, 2005 1:18 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.


Hi Greg,

Did you use the 1300 degree or the 2400 degree stuff?

Do you recall what you paid for them to do yours? (Q2 or Q200)?

Thanks,

Dave Richardson

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg & Debbie Merrill [mailto:q2pilot@...]
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 1:10 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.

This is the place I used and they do nice work!

http://www.jet-hot.com/

Greg

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On Behalf Of
rondefly@...
Sent: May 3, 2005 8:49 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.


Is this Ceramic coat a dipping process or did you just spray the
exterior?

Ron & Carolyn Triano Q-200 N4710P

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On Behalf Of
Greg & Debbie Merrill
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 5:01 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.

Ditto!

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On Behalf Of
Jerry Marstall
Sent: May 2, 2005 8:00 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Exhaust System.


I had it done for the 4 into 1 on my Revmaster. Not only did it help
with heat reduction in the cowling, you don't have rusty pipes.
Jerry

Mike Dwyer wrote:

Hey Qers.
I had written about putting together a stainless exhaust system and ...
you were right, it is next to impossible to bend that stuff. It
appears
only the mandrel bend machines can touch it.

Now I'm thinking about using steel to make a 4 pipe system. Each pipe
will exit at the bottom near the oil sump. I checked out this place
that ceramic coats the pipes, $20 per foot. They say it keeps the heat
in the pipes better. Does anyone here believe that or is it a waste of
money?

Thanks,
Mike Q200



Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links











Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links









Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





_____

Yahoo! Groups Links
* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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