A lower tech amd less gooey alternative is to wrap the plug with duct
tape, do the layup and excavate the foam with one of those snap off
blade knives fully extended - cut the foam into 1/2 inch squares and
dig it out.

(A bit hard for a fuel tank unless there is a reasonable inspection
panel built into the plan)

John



-- In Q-LIST@..., "Jim Patillo"
<logistics_engineering@m...> wrote:

Dennis,

I presumed Ron knew to use Bondo or some other filling material

with

release agent after getting the shape prior to glass. I guess I
should have been more clear. Sanding was just to knock off any
residue.

Dennis,

I presumed Ron knew to use Bondo or some other filling material with
release agent after getting the shape prior to glass. I guess I
should have been more clear. Sanding was just to knock off any
residue.

I actually made a quick disconnect aux tank using a foam shape then
Bondo and a release agent which was written up long ago.

Thanks for the clarification.

JP

Shape your foam tube, cover with wall joint
compound, sand smooth, paint with water
base paint, spray with release agent.
The release agent will ruin the joint
compound if not painted. Allow to dry,
then glass.
When cured, pour gas inside, pull out
the waste.
The inside of the tube will be
smoother than the outside.

Dennis Clark
N4324S

WOW!

I can't believe there was no response to my "Items to Sell" Either it did not get to the net or there is no interest! Anyway just in case it was missed I will resend the ads.

Larry

I am going to be coming to the "Spring Fling" but I will be driving as, unfortunately, my Corvair powered Q is not yet done.



I have a few aviation items that I wish to sell and can bring them along if someone has any interest. This is a list of the items.



Continental O-200A engine. This engine ran fine and had lots of power but I had low oil pressure and I decided to ground the engine. This is nearly a complete engine. The MA3-SPA carb I am using on the Corvair. One mag gear is gone and there is no starter. It was a pull start starter and I replaced it with a Sky-Tec starter so I had to cut off the pull start pivot. You will have to replace that part or buy the Sky-Tec starter or the B & C one that fits. The oil pump has been overhauled about 20 hours ago and didn't fix my low oil pressure situation.



Q-200 cowl This part was made from a my mold. This cowl is missing the lower area where the carb intake and carb would go. It is about 3-4 layers of glass and would have to be reinforced.



O-200 swing away engine mount. This engine mount allows the engine to swing out for maintenance. Also included is a removable mag box.



Lycoming style alt mounting bracket and pulleys. This allows a Nipendensu alt to be mounted to the fuel pump pad area of the Continental O-200 engine.



Subaru EJ-22 Engine. This engine is the basic core and I stripped most of the parts off to use it as an engine for the Q-200. I have most of the parts and I have a Don Paraham modified engine harness that allows this engine to run without all the excess wires. This engine has run on the new harness. The engine had over 100,000 miles on it when removed.



Prince P-Tip propeller suitable for the Continental O-200 I think it is a 58" diam X 68" pitch. This prop took my Q-200 to just shy of 200 MPH. Also included is a spinner for the prop.



Fiberglass air intake/ filter/carb heat part that fits the Q-200 Continental.



Various Continental O-200 gaskets



Continental O-200 accessory case.



Continental O-200 intake elbows.



If you have any interest in these parts please call me at 229-247-5297 or E-mail me at koutzl@...



I will not sell these parts at give away prices but something that is fair or if you have something to trade let me know. I am interested in:

Corvair engines, VW props, Mazada RX-7 RX-8 engines.



I don't know now when I will be leaving for the Spring Fling. It may be as much as a week prior to the event so if you are interested you need to get in touch with me early!



Larry Koutz

Thanks Jim, now I know what you are talking about, I already have the elbow
part that attaches to the carb, Can Do. Thanks



Ron t



Ron Triano N4710P
http://bld01.ipowerweb.com/contentmanagement/websites/rtrianoc/page8.html

_____

From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...] On Behalf Of
Jim Patillo
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 7:04 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Just uploaded 2 photos with the engine on




Ron,

Look in the files section up on the left and find my folder and then
0200 Engine for picture. I remember many years ago of a failure where
a "scat or skeet" hose failed and collapsed between the carb heat box
and carburetor causing the plane to crash.

I also think a fiberglass tube makes for a smoother flow into the
carb than the standard scat with ridges inside. The process is
simple. Make a foam plug to shape, glass it, let dry then pour gas
through. After drying, sand out the inside. Split ends of tube about
3/8" and install clamps.

Jim P.

"Ron" wrote:
Jim, Yea, it's raining here, hope it doesn't turn cold. What are the
advantages of a fiberglass section, is it for the carb heat? Is there
somewhere I can look at some photo's?

Ron T








Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






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Ron,

Look in the files section up on the left and find my folder and then
0200 Engine for picture. I remember many years ago of a failure where
a "scat or skeet" hose failed and collapsed between the carb heat box
and carburetor causing the plane to crash.

I also think a fiberglass tube makes for a smoother flow into the
carb than the standard scat with ridges inside. The process is
simple. Make a foam plug to shape, glass it, let dry then pour gas
through. After drying, sand out the inside. Split ends of tube about
3/8" and install clamps.

Jim P.

"Ron" wrote:
Jim, Yea, it's raining here, hope it doesn't turn cold. What are the
advantages of a fiberglass section, is it for the carb heat? Is there
somewhere I can look at some photo's?

Ron T

Jim, Yea, it's raining here, hope it doesn't turn cold. What are the
advantages of a fiberglass section, is it for the carb heat? Is there
somewhere I can look at some photo's?



Ron T



Ron Triano N4710P
http://bld01.ipowerweb.com/contentmanagement/websites/rtrianoc/page8.html

_____

From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...] On Behalf Of
Jim Patillo
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 3:59 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Just uploaded 2 photos with the engine on




Ron,

It looks like you have flexible "Scat" or "Skeet" hose between the
carb and carb heat box. You may want to consider making a fiberglass
section there.

Jim P.

Just got back from the ranch and it was raining there. Are you
getting any? Rain that is!

--- In Q-LIST@..., "Ron" <rondefly@r...> wrote:

If anyone is interested, I just uploaded two photos with the engine

on

to the photos section under Ron Triano. Now I can start laying out

all

the hookups to it. I started by taking the heat wrap off the pipes

and

am going to remove them and send them out for the ceramic thing.

Ron T

Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






_____

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* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/


* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...
<mailto:Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe>


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<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Service.

Hey Mike:

The overhaul manual for C75, C85, C90 & O-200 says in section III:

"...the C75 group differ from the corresponding dash numbered models in the
C85 group only in calibration of the carburetor installed. C90 models
differ from C75 and C85 models in the design of several major parts and
accessories, including the crankshaft, camshaft, crankshaft gear (in -8
models only), carburetor, oil sump, connecting rods, pistons and valve
springs. The O-200, in turn, differs from C Series in the design of its
crankcase, camshaft, crankcase cover, carburetor and oil sump."

There are other differences such as shielded ignition and compression; then
you get into the -8, -12, -14, -16, F and H models.

In general the manual discourages "field conversions" between models;
however, they are talking about use in certified aircraft.

The manual goes into great detail about the differences.

Hope this helps --

Mike Perry

Ron,

It looks like you have flexible "Scat" or "Skeet" hose between the
carb and carb heat box. You may want to consider making a fiberglass
section there.

Jim P.

Just got back from the ranch and it was raining there. Are you
getting any? Rain that is!

--- In Q-LIST@..., "Ron" <rondefly@r...> wrote:

If anyone is interested, I just uploaded two photos with the engine

on

to the photos section under Ron Triano. Now I can start laying out

all

the hookups to it. I started by taking the heat wrap off the pipes

and

am going to remove them and send them out for the ceramic thing.

Ron T

Mike, I have used an O-200 case to replace the C90-8F case I had which was cracked around the centre main bearing housing. There were obvious differences because the -8F had no mounting for the alternator (or is it starter) at the centre top, at rear. Other differences were because of the different studs placing for the accessory case - I am still using the one for the -8F. It was possible to modify as necessary though.

The other differences I was told about were the cranckcase through bolts - the O-200 is stronger, but compatible - so assuming the C-85 and C-90 are the same, (which I think they are) it should be OK. Be careful about the front of the crankshaft/thrust bearing though. They are not all the same and not interchangeable - some thrust bearings are bronze "C" shaped and some are (I believe) built into the main bearings. So check those items are the same.

PS the cracking around the centre main journal and also wear on the mating areas on the crankcase halves around the journal, is quite common and can lead to crank failure. You can normally see the signs of wear and cracks by looking very carefully.

I hope this helps, but I am not an expert. I am only telling what I found with my engine and by talking to someone who knows...
Regards

Chris Rayner

If anyone is interested, I just uploaded two photos with the engine on
to the photos section under Ron Triano. Now I can start laying out all
the hookups to it. I started by taking the heat wrap off the pipes and
am going to remove them and send them out for the ceramic thing.

Ron T

Thank you for that information, it cleared things up a lot.

Paul Buckley <paulbuckley@...> wrote:Bill
Specifically, the original Q2 was fitted with a GU canard which was sensitive to rain and bug splatter on the leading edge. The canard would lose lift when contaminated, requiring more down elevator to compensate, resulting in a heavy stick force and the possibility of running out of elevator authority.
The cure was to fit vortex generators to the top surface of the canard, and there are a lot of Q2's flying safely in this configuration.
When the Revmaster engine was replaced with the 0-200, the canard aerofoil was redesigned to carry the additional weight and to have the necessary increase in elevator authority.
This is the LS-1 canard with the carbon fibre spar (the GU has a 'spar-cap' layup) and the redesign co-incidently solved the rain contamination problem.....the LS-1 does not require vortex generators and has no flight problems.

Paul Buckley
Cheshire, England.
TriQ-200
............still building.

Hey Guys,
Is a Continental C-85 engine case the same as a 0-200A case?
Sure look the same to me ...
Thanks,
Mike Q-200

Jim Patillo
Did you ever get any pictures of your front bulkhead?

Kevin Boddicker
Luana, Iowa
Tri Q200 N7868B
Building

Group,

How far do I need to sand the canard chordwise for rain, 50% or
100% ? Do the elevators also need sanding ?

Ryan
Tri-Q1

The way to cure the problem you describe is to install a flush mount
filler in the top of the header with a steel or aluminum (grounded)
2- 2 1/2" tube just below the header opening.

Exactly what I have.

That way you can fill
the header and main at the same time from the same opening. This
makes filling both tanks very fast and you know exactly how much
fuel is in the header and main simply by looking in the hole.

I can tell the header, but I need my fuel gage to tell the main.

I can
fill my tanks in half the time it takes to fill the conventional
setup.

yes

Larry Severson
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
(714) 968-9852
larry2@...

So you must be feeding the engine from the main tank

no

with the header 'overflow' taken from the bottom of the header tank

no, top

, linking the two together.
If you put a standpipe in to act as an overflow, as per plans,

it is.

you would solve the problem, but then you would have to feed from the header,

It does.

But why do you say it is a problem 'as is'......does it matter that the
header can only be full if the main is? Do you have a problem with an aft
C of G?

Under no conditions of fuel or passenger + legal baggage does the plane get
out of CG.

Your system is simple, just what we try to achieve.

yep


Larry Severson
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
(714) 968-9852
larry2@...

Larry
The way to cure the problem you describe is to install a flush mount
filler in the top of the header with a steel or aluminum (grounded)
2- 2 1/2" tube just below the header opening. That way you can fill
the header and main at the same time from the same opening. This
makes filling both tanks very fast and you know exactly how much
fuel is in the header and main simply by looking in the hole. I can
fill my tanks in half the time it takes to fill the conventional
setup. Sam Kittle has just finished this mod and can elaborate if
any one is interested.

The only kicker is the header we have is different than standard! If
you are building and at this stage you may want to look into this
option. I have 5 years and almost 600 hours on this mod and it works
well.

Jim P.


--- In Q-LIST@..., larry severson <larry2@s...> wrote:

At 04:28 PM 5/6/2005 +0100, you wrote:

Paul, the two filler points I mention are the one on the side -

to the main

tank and the one on the top - to the header. The side one had pvc

down pipe;

wrapped in BID

My Q2 has a single header fill point with an overflow to the main

tank. It

is simplicity in construction and prevents overfilling the header.

Its main

problem is that the header can't be full unless the main tank is.


Larry Severson
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
(714) 968-9852
larry2@s...

Larry

So you must be feeding the engine from the main tank with the header 'overflow' taken from the bottom of the header tank, linking the two together.
If you put a standpipe in to act as an overflow, as per plans, you would solve the problem, but then you would have to feed from the header, unless you fitted a selector valve rather than a transfer pump.
But why do you say it is a problem 'as is'......does it matter that the header can only be full if the main is? Do you have a problem with an aft C of G?
Your system is simple, just what we try to achieve.

Paul Buckley
Cheshire, England.

At 04:28 PM 5/6/2005 +0100, you wrote:

Paul, the two filler points I mention are the one on the side - to the main
tank and the one on the top - to the header. The side one had pvc down pipe;
wrapped in BID

My Q2 has a single header fill point with an overflow to the main tank. It
is simplicity in construction and prevents overfilling the header. Its main
problem is that the header can't be full unless the main tank is.


Larry Severson
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
(714) 968-9852
larry2@...