Date   

Q2 Accident

Doug Humble <hawkidoug@...>
 

I have been alerted to the info below. It appears to have been owned by a Robert Justin of St. Louis. Anybody know him?

Here is a story I found: http://www.kmov.com/topstories/stories/kmov_localnews_070305_planedown.20dea27c.html


** Report created 3/6/2007 Record 3 **
********************************************************************************

IDENTIFICATION
Regis#: 89WW Make/Model: EXP Description: QUICKIE Q-2
Date: 03/05/2007 Time: 2045

Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: Fatal Mid Air: N Missing: N
Damage: Unknown

LOCATION
City: EDWARDSVILLE State: IL Country: US

DESCRIPTION
ACFT CRASHED AFTER REPORTING A ROUGH RUNNING ENGINE, THE ONE PERSON ON
BOARD WAS FATALLY INJURED, 1 MILE FROM EDWARDSVILLE, IL

INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 1
# Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:

WEATHER: ALN WX 2055Z 36014 10 FEW150 A3029

OTHER DATA
Activity: Pleasure Phase: Unknown Operation: OTHER

Departed: ALTON, IL Dep Date: Dep. Time:
Destination: Flt Plan: VFR Wx Briefing:
Last Radio Cont:
Last Clearance:

FAA FSDO: SPRINGFIELD, IL (GL19) Entry date: 03/06/2007


Doug "Hawkeye" Humble
A Sign Above www.asignabove.net
Omaha NE
N25974


Attending Sun-N-Fun 2007?

Kevin Sheeley
 

Will anyone be at Sun-N-Fun on Saturday the 21st with their Q2 or Q200?

Kevin (building Q200)


Craig Jones Q1 in Q-talk

davedrosen <d2r@...>
 

Craig:
I saw the picture of your Q in Q-talk. I would be very interested in
some better pictures of the interior, in particular the brake handles
and their set-up, cabling etc. I need to do something like this for my
Q soon, and like the setup in yours. You can e-mail me directly.

Thanks,
Dave R.
Q1
Texas
N4YQ


Re: q-1 with rotax 503

DENNIS GONZALEZ <edge540gas@...>
 

let me see if I can get a picture


Dennis in S. Fla.
"For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return."
Leonardo da Vinci. the ingenious-eer

----- Original Message ----
From: Keith Welsh <kfly@juno.com>
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 6:12:10 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] q-1 with rotax 503

It's easy to tell, ours have 9 head bolts and the P224 engine (60cid) has 10. Also the shaft is or can be the same size, I had one of em. It's about 1.5" wider & the same taller with a larger sump. Good news is that the gear case is the same and will bolt right on.

Keith Welsh

----- Original Message -----
From: DENNIS GONZALEZ
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] q-1 with rotax 503

do you have a picture of the 60 c.i. engine, I have a couple of onan engines that I don't know what they are, it might help ya.........

Dennis in S. Fla.
"For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return."
Leonardo da Vinci. the ingenious-eer

----- Original Message ----
From: "denpau@mchsi. com" <denpau@mchsi. com>
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 9:10:37 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] q-1 with rotax 503

Isaksson Roger said,

"Onan actually have a history of pretty high hours Q1's."

"The 60 Cu Inch is probably the best upgrade you can do and still be as close
as possible from the original plans."

"My opinion, (take it or leave it) get a 60 cu inch Onan, and fly."

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _

I have the 48 Cu inch Onan in my Quickie, with some mods (mikuni carb,
reground cam, dual ignition, firewall mounted remote oil filter, cooling air
ducted under and around the cylinders, to cool the exhaust side first, as Onan
does from the factory. Part of the air is directed around the oil sump for low
oil temps.
I had thoughts of getting the 60 cube Onan later for the extra power.

BUT ! ! ! ! !

All of the internet sites that I have visited that sell this type (industrial)
of engine report that Onan has stopped making the flat head engine and there
are none available. Maybe there are a few to be found some where, but it might
take some searching.

The Jabiru looks great, but I'm not rich.

Dennis



____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
http://new.mail. yahoo.com










____________________________________________________________________________________
Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check.
Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta.
http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailbeta/newmail_tools.html


Re: q-1 with rotax 503

Keith Welsh <kfly@...>
 

It's easy to tell, ours have 9 head bolts and the P224 engine (60cid) has 10. Also the shaft is or can be the same size, I had one of em. It's about 1.5" wider & the same taller with a larger sump. Good news is that the gear case is the same and will bolt right on.

Keith Welsh

----- Original Message -----
From: DENNIS GONZALEZ
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] q-1 with rotax 503


do you have a picture of the 60 c.i. engine, I have a couple of onan engines that I don't know what they are, it might help ya.........

Dennis in S. Fla.
"For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return."
Leonardo da Vinci. the ingenious-eer

----- Original Message ----
From: "denpau@mchsi.com" <denpau@mchsi.com>
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 9:10:37 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] q-1 with rotax 503

Isaksson Roger said,

"Onan actually have a history of pretty high hours Q1's."

"The 60 Cu Inch is probably the best upgrade you can do and still be as close
as possible from the original plans."

"My opinion, (take it or leave it) get a 60 cu inch Onan, and fly."

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _

I have the 48 Cu inch Onan in my Quickie, with some mods (mikuni carb,
reground cam, dual ignition, firewall mounted remote oil filter, cooling air
ducted under and around the cylinders, to cool the exhaust side first, as Onan
does from the factory. Part of the air is directed around the oil sump for low
oil temps.
I had thoughts of getting the 60 cube Onan later for the extra power.

BUT ! ! ! ! !

All of the internet sites that I have visited that sell this type (industrial)
of engine report that Onan has stopped making the flat head engine and there
are none available. Maybe there are a few to be found some where, but it might
take some searching.

The Jabiru looks great, but I'm not rich.

Dennis



__________________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
http://new.mail.yahoo.com


Re: No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral zone )

Kevin Boddicker <trumanst@...>
 

Richard,
I used UV Smooth Prime from Poly Fiber. It is a catalyzed water born
primer applied with a foam roller. I followed with their epoxy primer
and top coated with Aerothane.
The foam roller fills "most" of the pinholes due to the pressure of
the rolling process.
It requires six coats, as per the directions. Sands very very
smoothly with 320 grit, if you get on it in several days. After a
week or so the primer gets too hard to knock down with 320 grit. So
180 will knock it down, and the 320 will smooth it up.
The most important thing is to stay with one manufacturer all the way
through.
Conversations with the Poly Fiber factory also told me to let the
epoxy primer cure for at least 48 hours. If not cured the "gas" from
the primer might bubble under the Aerothane.
If longer than 48 hours the epoxy primer may need to be lightly
scuffed before the Aerothane is applied.
My paint was applied in the fall of 04. So far so good.
Hope this helps
Kevin Boddicker
Tri Q 200 N7868B 45.7 hours
Luana, IA.

On Feb 25, 2007, at 2:11 PM, viggenbuilder2 wrote:

Hi All,
I had dealt with all the bumps that had been there on the tail cone
before Xmas, so after the cold spell began to lift back in mid Jan, I
looked to get things ready to start priming.
I started sanding back, and noticed some more bumps had appeared. So I
picked at these and bingo, before I knew it I had stripped about 2 sq
feet of paint without any adhesion at all.
So with Mike D's advice ringing in my head, I decided enough was
enough
and set to work to strip it all off the tail cone. This is now done,
and I have started to refill with epoxy filler and things are at last
seemingly better. At least I can now see the substrate and know that
the filler will be good.
Now the interesting part is that all the paint seemed to strip from a
neutral zone (To pinch a term from Star Trek), which as it came off in
sheets or strips, the paint was black on the back, but the black layer
was still on the surface it had come off of. So the black layer had
separated causing the lack of adherance. Looking at the paint strips,
the black on the back was firmly adhered to the paint. The black layer
on the tail cone was also firmly attached. So it was the black layer
that had "split"! Has anybody else had this happen ? Is this relate to
damp conditions?
This has caused me to wonder what to do with regard to the
refinishing.
I am using epoxy primer, and two pack poly top coat, which is an
effective UV barrier, so do I need to reapply the black layer with the
possible further problem of lack of adhesion ? Do you guys still use
the black UV layer, or have you all moved on from it now ?

Richard Thomson
Tri Q G-BMFN 368 hours old.
richard@cloudland.co.uk



Re: No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral zone )

aerofxinc <aerofxinc@...>
 

hello guys,
I haven't read the messages in quite a while and have just caught
myself up on the paint issues. I am a professional aircraft painter
(20 years) and have had my own shop in Fl for seven years; Aero FX. I
have painted my share of composite aircraft and I would be happy to
help anyone with any questions. From what I've read there seems to be
a question about "the black". I'm guessing this is a UV barrier
applied at construction. Depending on the type of paint you are
using, many newer generation (last 10 years) paints have incredible
UV protectors built in. Paint, like the fiberglass on your planes is
a resin. Resins are UV sensitive meaning they can be cured by UV
rays. Many paints become faded and brittle over time due to the
continual curing effect of the sun. Any paint that
says "photochemically sensitive" on the can will require a UV base
under it. If you have paint already and can't tell, place some
uncatalyzed paint on a stirstick and put it in the sun. Most will
cure over time but some designed for aircraft use will not cure until
catalyzed. These are generally polyurethanes like Jet Glo.

It was also mentioned that "gassing" and moisture might be culprits
and both are true. Any materials with a poly base are moisture
magnets. Make sure to keep your booth, hangar, etc. warm and dry. For
gassing, let the product cure out before covering it with something
else. Many hi-build primers are poly based and take a long time to
cure out completely. (30 days @ 70 degrees) Shrinking is also limited
by curing time. That's when you don't see the glass weave after
priming and sanding and then it pops up after you've painted and
flown for a month! Patience is the only answer.

I'm sorry for such a long post but paint is a laboriuos and very
meticulous process if you are to expect good results. I am available
to answer what I can via this discussion.

Mike Gifford

--- In Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <sham@...> wrote:

The better the prep the better the finish. I am using PPG. Whatever
you use make sure it is all the same product after the two part
primer/sealer.
There are a lot of guys on the list with good tips. Some have used
a paint booth and some have painted outside. I am using my hanger and
building a tent out of visqueen, Go to a auto paint shop and ask for
some advice. There are also some good dvd's and several books on "How
to. "



Good luck Steve Ham



----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph M Snow
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral
zone )


I hope be painting early April. Would you care to share some
insights?

Joseph

Steve <sham@...> wrote:
You guys need to be careful about "picking at your bumps". I
started doing this 14 months ago and I have been in the process of
COMPLETLY stripping and refinishing my plane. I thought I did a good
job of finishing the first time....but the second time you really
learn how to get the find the PERFECT finish. 40 hours the first time
and 200 the second time. Obsessive compulsive behavior...

Steve Ham

----- Original Message -----
From: Allan Farr
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral
zone )

Hi. It's funny how these subjects come up. I was picking at some
cracked paint on the coaming of my a/c last night and it just started
flaking off right down to the fibreglass. I am carefully using a
blunt chisel and it's easily coming off. Hope it's not all like that.
Allan F

----- Original Message -----
From: viggenbuilder2
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, 26 February 2007 09:11
Subject: [Q-LIST] No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral
zone )

Hi All,
I had dealt with all the bumps that had been there on the tail
cone
before Xmas, so after the cold spell began to lift back in mid
Jan, I
looked to get things ready to start priming.
I started sanding back, and noticed some more bumps had appeared.
So I
picked at these and bingo, before I knew it I had stripped about
2 sq
feet of paint without any adhesion at all.
So with Mike D's advice ringing in my head, I decided enough was
enough
and set to work to strip it all off the tail cone. This is now
done,
and I have started to refill with epoxy filler and things are at
last
seemingly better. At least I can now see the substrate and know
that
the filler will be good.
Now the interesting part is that all the paint seemed to strip
from a
neutral zone (To pinch a term from Star Trek), which as it came
off in
sheets or strips, the paint was black on the back, but the black
layer
was still on the surface it had come off of. So the black layer
had
separated causing the lack of adherance. Looking at the paint
strips,
the black on the back was firmly adhered to the paint. The black
layer
on the tail cone was also firmly attached. So it was the black
layer
that had "split"! Has anybody else had this happen ? Is this
relate to
damp conditions?
This has caused me to wonder what to do with regard to the
refinishing.
I am using epoxy primer, and two pack poly top coat, which is an
effective UV barrier, so do I need to reapply the black layer
with the
possible further problem of lack of adhesion ? Do you guys still
use
the black UV layer, or have you all moved on from it now ?

Richard Thomson
Tri Q G-BMFN 368 hours old.
richard@...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Sam H's Sparrow Strainers

Richard Thomson
 

Thanks Everyone, thats most informative. Mine are also behind the centre
support currently, but they need remaking, so the inboard sounds like place
to go.
By the way, has anyone got pages 19 - 32 of the Tri Q conversion
construction notes ? Recompense to any willing person.

Richard Thomson
Weston s Mare , UK
Tri-Q G-BMFN (Aged 368 hours )
richard@cloudland.co.uk


Re: No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral zone )

Steve <sham@...>
 

The better the prep the better the finish. I am using PPG. Whatever you use make sure it is all the same product after the two part primer/sealer.
There are a lot of guys on the list with good tips. Some have used a paint booth and some have painted outside. I am using my hanger and building a tent out of visqueen, Go to a auto paint shop and ask for some advice. There are also some good dvd's and several books on "How to. "



Good luck Steve Ham

----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph M Snow
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral zone )


I hope be painting early April. Would you care to share some insights?

Joseph

Steve <sham@indy.rr.com> wrote:
You guys need to be careful about "picking at your bumps". I started doing this 14 months ago and I have been in the process of COMPLETLY stripping and refinishing my plane. I thought I did a good job of finishing the first time....but the second time you really learn how to get the find the PERFECT finish. 40 hours the first time and 200 the second time. Obsessive compulsive behavior...

Steve Ham

----- Original Message -----
From: Allan Farr
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral zone )

Hi. It's funny how these subjects come up. I was picking at some cracked paint on the coaming of my a/c last night and it just started flaking off right down to the fibreglass. I am carefully using a blunt chisel and it's easily coming off. Hope it's not all like that.
Allan F

----- Original Message -----
From: viggenbuilder2
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, 26 February 2007 09:11
Subject: [Q-LIST] No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral zone )

Hi All,
I had dealt with all the bumps that had been there on the tail cone
before Xmas, so after the cold spell began to lift back in mid Jan, I
looked to get things ready to start priming.
I started sanding back, and noticed some more bumps had appeared. So I
picked at these and bingo, before I knew it I had stripped about 2 sq
feet of paint without any adhesion at all.
So with Mike D's advice ringing in my head, I decided enough was enough
and set to work to strip it all off the tail cone. This is now done,
and I have started to refill with epoxy filler and things are at last
seemingly better. At least I can now see the substrate and know that
the filler will be good.
Now the interesting part is that all the paint seemed to strip from a
neutral zone (To pinch a term from Star Trek), which as it came off in
sheets or strips, the paint was black on the back, but the black layer
was still on the surface it had come off of. So the black layer had
separated causing the lack of adherance. Looking at the paint strips,
the black on the back was firmly adhered to the paint. The black layer
on the tail cone was also firmly attached. So it was the black layer
that had "split"! Has anybody else had this happen ? Is this relate to
damp conditions?
This has caused me to wonder what to do with regard to the refinishing.
I am using epoxy primer, and two pack poly top coat, which is an
effective UV barrier, so do I need to reapply the black layer with the
possible further problem of lack of adhesion ? Do you guys still use
the black UV layer, or have you all moved on from it now ?

Richard Thomson
Tri Q G-BMFN 368 hours old.
richard@cloudland.co.uk


Re: No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral zone )

Joseph M Snow <1flashq@...>
 

I hope be painting early April. Would you care to share some insights?

Joseph

Steve <sham@indy.rr.com> wrote:
You guys need to be careful about "picking at your bumps". I started doing this 14 months ago and I have been in the process of COMPLETLY stripping and refinishing my plane. I thought I did a good job of finishing the first time....but the second time you really learn how to get the find the PERFECT finish. 40 hours the first time and 200 the second time. Obsessive compulsive behavior...

Steve Ham

----- Original Message -----
From: Allan Farr
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral zone )

Hi. It's funny how these subjects come up. I was picking at some cracked paint on the coaming of my a/c last night and it just started flaking off right down to the fibreglass. I am carefully using a blunt chisel and it's easily coming off. Hope it's not all like that.
Allan F

----- Original Message -----
From: viggenbuilder2
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, 26 February 2007 09:11
Subject: [Q-LIST] No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral zone )

Hi All,
I had dealt with all the bumps that had been there on the tail cone
before Xmas, so after the cold spell began to lift back in mid Jan, I
looked to get things ready to start priming.
I started sanding back, and noticed some more bumps had appeared. So I
picked at these and bingo, before I knew it I had stripped about 2 sq
feet of paint without any adhesion at all.
So with Mike D's advice ringing in my head, I decided enough was enough
and set to work to strip it all off the tail cone. This is now done,
and I have started to refill with epoxy filler and things are at last
seemingly better. At least I can now see the substrate and know that
the filler will be good.
Now the interesting part is that all the paint seemed to strip from a
neutral zone (To pinch a term from Star Trek), which as it came off in
sheets or strips, the paint was black on the back, but the black layer
was still on the surface it had come off of. So the black layer had
separated causing the lack of adherance. Looking at the paint strips,
the black on the back was firmly adhered to the paint. The black layer
on the tail cone was also firmly attached. So it was the black layer
that had "split"! Has anybody else had this happen ? Is this relate to
damp conditions?
This has caused me to wonder what to do with regard to the refinishing.
I am using epoxy primer, and two pack poly top coat, which is an
effective UV barrier, so do I need to reapply the black layer with the
possible further problem of lack of adhesion ? Do you guys still use
the black UV layer, or have you all moved on from it now ?

Richard Thomson
Tri Q G-BMFN 368 hours old.
richard@cloudland.co.uk


Knapp

Keith Welsh <kfly@...>
 

This is for Gene Knapp.

Just got back from being out of town for two weeks. Got your message but lousy signal where we were.
Give me a call on my cell.

Keith Welsh


Re: Sam H's Sparrow Strainers

Steve <sham@...>
 

2-3 inches from the fuselage.

Steve Ham

----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Dwyer
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 5:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Sam H's Sparrow Strainers


Mine are also close to the fuselage. I did it cause thats how the
factory plane was, also gives the least adverse yaw, which couldn't be much.
Mike N3QP

Sam Hoskins wrote:
> Yes, mine are close to the fuselage. I don't remember why they are there,
> since I installed them about 22 years ago.
>
> Anyone else?
>
> Sam Hoskins
>
> Murphysboro, IL
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> viggenbuilder2
> Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 2:35 PM
> To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Q-LIST] Sam H's Sparrow Strainers
>
>
>
> Sam H,
> Was I dreaming, or are your sparrow strainers fairly close to the root
> end. Mine are in the middle, so what is the thinking behind it ? Does
> it matter where they are ?
>
> Richard Thomson
> TriQ G-BMFN 368hrs old
> richard@cloudland. <mailto:richard%40cloudland.co.uk> co.uk
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Quickie Builders Association WEB site
> http://www.quickiebuilders.org
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>


Re: No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral zone )

Steve <sham@...>
 

You guys need to be careful about "picking at your bumps". I started doing this 14 months ago and I have been in the process of COMPLETLY stripping and refinishing my plane. I thought I did a good job of finishing the first time....but the second time you really learn how to get the find the PERFECT finish. 40 hours the first time and 200 the second time. Obsessive compulsive behavior...


Steve Ham

----- Original Message -----
From: Allan Farr
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral zone )


Hi. It's funny how these subjects come up. I was picking at some cracked paint on the coaming of my a/c last night and it just started flaking off right down to the fibreglass. I am carefully using a blunt chisel and it's easily coming off. Hope it's not all like that.
Allan F

----- Original Message -----
From: viggenbuilder2
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, 26 February 2007 09:11
Subject: [Q-LIST] No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral zone )

Hi All,
I had dealt with all the bumps that had been there on the tail cone
before Xmas, so after the cold spell began to lift back in mid Jan, I
looked to get things ready to start priming.
I started sanding back, and noticed some more bumps had appeared. So I
picked at these and bingo, before I knew it I had stripped about 2 sq
feet of paint without any adhesion at all.
So with Mike D's advice ringing in my head, I decided enough was enough
and set to work to strip it all off the tail cone. This is now done,
and I have started to refill with epoxy filler and things are at last
seemingly better. At least I can now see the substrate and know that
the filler will be good.
Now the interesting part is that all the paint seemed to strip from a
neutral zone (To pinch a term from Star Trek), which as it came off in
sheets or strips, the paint was black on the back, but the black layer
was still on the surface it had come off of. So the black layer had
separated causing the lack of adherance. Looking at the paint strips,
the black on the back was firmly adhered to the paint. The black layer
on the tail cone was also firmly attached. So it was the black layer
that had "split"! Has anybody else had this happen ? Is this relate to
damp conditions?
This has caused me to wonder what to do with regard to the refinishing.
I am using epoxy primer, and two pack poly top coat, which is an
effective UV barrier, so do I need to reapply the black layer with the
possible further problem of lack of adhesion ? Do you guys still use
the black UV layer, or have you all moved on from it now ?

Richard Thomson
Tri Q G-BMFN 368 hours old.
richard@cloudland.co.uk


Re: Q2 Pilot Manual / Performance numbers wanted

Mike Perry <dmperry1012@...>
 

The Q-200 POH is just the Q-2 POH with a four page supplement that gives
weight and balance and performance specs of the factory airplane. The
supplement info is also in QAC newsletter 20.

Mike Perry

At 07:35 AM 2/26/2007 +1000, Peter Harris wrote:

Doug

Is there a Q-200 POH also?

Peter


Re: Q2 Pilot Manual / Performance numbers wanted

Doug Humble <hawkidoug@...>
 

No Q-200 POH to my knowledge.

Doug "Hawkeye" Humble
A Sign Above www.asignabove.net
Omaha NE
N25974

----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Harris
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 3:35 PM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Re: Q2 Pilot Manual / Performance numbers wanted


Doug

Is there a Q-200 POH also?

Peter

_____

From: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Doug Humble
Sent: Monday, 26 February 2007 12:45 AM
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Re: Q2 Pilot Manual / Performance numbers wanted

I just downloaded the pdf from John's site and I'll put it out at the QBA
site soon. Good to have it in a couple of places anyway.

Doug "Hawkeye" Humble
A Sign Above www.asignabove.net
Omaha NE
N25974
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Hole
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups. <mailto:Q-LIST%40yahoogroups.com> com
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 7:49 PM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Q2 Pilot Manual / Performance numbers wanted

You will find the Q2 pilot manual link on this page:

http://www.finleywe
<http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/QuickieQ2Docs/tabid/58/Default.aspx>
b.net/JonsStuff/QuickieQ2Docs/tabid/58/Default.aspx

I also have this manual in a WORD document which could be posted on the
QBA site.

--- In Q-LIST@yahoogroups. <mailto:Q-LIST%40yahoogroups.com> com, "re5ande1"
<ckcoleman@...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of a source for an online version of the Q2 pilot
> manual? Among other things, I'd like to find out what the takeoff
and
> landing distances are for a Revmaster powered Q2 (64HP), GU airfoil,
> max gross wt (1000 lbs) over a 50 ft obstacle. If you know the
source
> of the manual, or know these numbers I'd appreciate a reply. Thanks
>
> re5ande1
>


Re: No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral zone )

Allan Farr <afarr@...>
 

Hi. It's funny how these subjects come up. I was picking at some cracked paint on the coaming of my a/c last night and it just started flaking off right down to the fibreglass. I am carefully using a blunt chisel and it's easily coming off. Hope it's not all like that.
Allan F

----- Original Message -----
From: viggenbuilder2
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, 26 February 2007 09:11
Subject: [Q-LIST] No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral zone )


Hi All,
I had dealt with all the bumps that had been there on the tail cone
before Xmas, so after the cold spell began to lift back in mid Jan, I
looked to get things ready to start priming.
I started sanding back, and noticed some more bumps had appeared. So I
picked at these and bingo, before I knew it I had stripped about 2 sq
feet of paint without any adhesion at all.
So with Mike D's advice ringing in my head, I decided enough was enough
and set to work to strip it all off the tail cone. This is now done,
and I have started to refill with epoxy filler and things are at last
seemingly better. At least I can now see the substrate and know that
the filler will be good.
Now the interesting part is that all the paint seemed to strip from a
neutral zone (To pinch a term from Star Trek), which as it came off in
sheets or strips, the paint was black on the back, but the black layer
was still on the surface it had come off of. So the black layer had
separated causing the lack of adherance. Looking at the paint strips,
the black on the back was firmly adhered to the paint. The black layer
on the tail cone was also firmly attached. So it was the black layer
that had "split"! Has anybody else had this happen ? Is this relate to
damp conditions?
This has caused me to wonder what to do with regard to the refinishing.
I am using epoxy primer, and two pack poly top coat, which is an
effective UV barrier, so do I need to reapply the black layer with the
possible further problem of lack of adhesion ? Do you guys still use
the black UV layer, or have you all moved on from it now ?

Richard Thomson
Tri Q G-BMFN 368 hours old.
richard@cloudland.co.uk


Re: Sam H's Sparrow Strainers

Joseph M Snow <1flashq@...>
 

Richard,
I have my sparrow strainers mounted just behind the middle hinge support of the elevator, as indicated on plans. I asked the same question this fall, because I noticed most Q2/200 have the strainers mounted close to the fuselage. I was told that the "close to fuselage position" takes advantage of prop wash.

Joseph

viggenbuilder2 <richard@cloudland.co.uk> wrote:
Sam H,
Was I dreaming, or are your sparrow strainers fairly close to the root
end. Mine are in the middle, so what is the thinking behind it ? Does
it matter where they are ?

Richard Thomson
TriQ G-BMFN 368hrs old
richard@cloudland.co.uk


Re: No More Sun Bumps ( or finding the neutral zone )

Mike Dwyer <mdwyer@...>
 

You need the UV barrier, remember Gore says the Ozone is gone and you don't want your plane melting in the hot sun. Also the paint that peeled off mine was also black on the bottom. I don't think it was so much that the black split. I think it's the out-gassing of the fiberglass that pops the paint off and the black tries to stick to everything... I left an unprotected piece of fiberglass in the sun and after a year the resin was gone leaving only the raw glass. Seems the resin sublimates (solid to gas) in the sun?
Mike N3QP

viggenbuilder2 wrote:

Hi All,
I had dealt with all the bumps that had been there on the tail cone before Xmas, so after the cold spell began to lift back in mid Jan, I looked to get things ready to start priming. I started sanding back, and noticed some more bumps had appeared. So I picked at these and bingo, before I knew it I had stripped about 2 sq feet of paint without any adhesion at all. So with Mike D's advice ringing in my head, I decided enough was enough and set to work to strip it all off the tail cone. This is now done, and I have started to refill with epoxy filler and things are at last seemingly better. At least I can now see the substrate and know that the filler will be good.
Now the interesting part is that all the paint seemed to strip from a neutral zone (To pinch a term from Star Trek), which as it came off in sheets or strips, the paint was black on the back, but the black layer was still on the surface it had come off of. So the black layer had separated causing the lack of adherance. Looking at the paint strips, the black on the back was firmly adhered to the paint. The black layer on the tail cone was also firmly attached. So it was the black layer that had "split"! Has anybody else had this happen ? Is this relate to damp conditions?
This has caused me to wonder what to do with regard to the refinishing. I am using epoxy primer, and two pack poly top coat, which is an effective UV barrier, so do I need to reapply the black layer with the possible further problem of lack of adhesion ? Do you guys still use the black UV layer, or have you all moved on from it now ?

Richard Thomson
Tri Q G-BMFN 368 hours old.
richard@cloudland.co.uk




Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org

Yahoo! Groups Links






Re: Progress update

Joseph M Snow <1flashq@...>
 

Thanks for the tip. I am using PPG DP90LF two part black primer. Since it is also a UV barrier and is appropriate for PPG finish coats, I will be using it as the final primer. Hopefully, I will have fixed all defects. If some defects do show up, I will give it a try.

Perhaps your primer to primer delamination was casued by using different brands of primer or inadequate sanding prep.

Joseph

viggenbuilder2 <richard@cloudland.co.uk> wrote:
Joseph,
One tip that I saw on the Canard Aviators site from Ken Miller I
believe, was if you are using epoxy primer add some dry micro in any
pin holes or small defects as you paint. It bonds tight and is easy
to sand ready for paint. I tried a small tester and it seems to work
quite well.

Rich Thomson
TriQ G-BMFN 368 hours old
richard@cloudland.co.uk

--- In Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com, Joseph M Snow <1flashq@...> wrote:

I am really sorry about not getting this link correct. Try this
one:

http://corvairq.info/Microfiller.htm

Joseph




Re: Sam H's Sparrow Strainers

Mike Dwyer <mdwyer@...>
 

Mine are also close to the fuselage. I did it cause thats how the factory plane was, also gives the least adverse yaw, which couldn't be much.
Mike N3QP


Sam Hoskins wrote:

Yes, mine are close to the fuselage. I don't remember why they are there,
since I installed them about 22 years ago.

Anyone else?

Sam Hoskins

Murphysboro, IL


_____
From: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
viggenbuilder2
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 2:35 PM
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Q-LIST] Sam H's Sparrow Strainers


Sam H,
Was I dreaming, or are your sparrow strainers fairly close to the root end. Mine are in the middle, so what is the thinking behind it ? Does it matter where they are ?

Richard Thomson
TriQ G-BMFN 368hrs old
richard@cloudland. <mailto:richard%40cloudland.co.uk> co.uk








Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org

Yahoo! Groups Links