Date   

Re: Web page update - Wiring

MartinErni@...
 

One thing to remember with this method is that if you print your label on a
thermal printer it with turn black when you heat shrink it. Test your label
before you make to many.

Earnest

In a message dated 1/31/2008 12:30:57 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jeffrey.letempt@... writes:




Joseph,

Using clear heat shrink tubing to indentify your circuits is not that
hard and it will certainly make things easier if you ever have a
problem. I did this on many of my wires, but I got inpatient and did
not do it on all the wires. I did slip a piece of clear heat shrink on
all the wires before I crimped on the terminal, so if I ever have
nothing else to do I can go back and print out the labels and install
them. Terminal Town has a brief description on how to do the labels.

_http://www.terminalhttp://wwhttp://www.tehttp_
(http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page94.html)

Jeff

The absence of an accident does not indicate the presence of safety!!!

-----Original Message-----
From: _Q-LIST@... (mailto:Q-LIST@...)
[mailto:_Q-LIST@... (mailto:Q-LIST@...) ] On Behalf
Of Joseph M Snow
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 6:36 PM
To: _Q-LIST@... (mailto:Q-LIST@...)
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Re: Web page update - Wiring

John,

Excellent commentary. I have already made a copy of your email and
placed it on my "to do"clipboard.

I like the idea of labeling the wires. I do not understand how you could
read such a lable wrapped around a 22 awg wire. The information might be
read if it were printed as a long sentence, about 1-2 "...? Is this what
you have in mind?

Joseph







**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489


Re: Q2 Propellor on Order

Peter Harris <peterjfharris@...>
 

Phil,

When I was configured as a Q-2 Revmaster (tail dragger) I got 140KTS level
cruise at 1500ft. Static and climb RPM was 2750RPM and max cruise was 3200 =
max horsepower.

The prop was a 56X49 Cowley wood prop. and I figured it was well matched as
a cruise prop but climb was better than 1000FPM near SL. The engine had the
larger valves and was rated at 75HP.

Peter



_____

From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...] On Behalf Of
britmcman99
Sent: Thursday, 31 January 2008 11:32 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Q2 Propellor on Order



Calling all Q2 pilots - I have a little bit of an activity update to
fill you all in on. I have sold my Tri-Q N87TQ and have begun to move
in a direction to begin completion of a Q2. The motor is at Revmaster
getting fitted with 94 mm bores on 78 mm stroke stoke crankshaft. The
cylinder heads are by Great Plains and it looks like we will be aiming
for a 8.2 (or less)to 1 compression ratio. The engine also gets a
modern Revmaster cam. So if everything specs out just right, maybe I
can expect an honest 78 horsepower.

I just spoke with Jay Anderson of Cloudcars Propellors and I am in the
que for a new prop. Jay mentioned he would like to tool up for
multiple orders over a single order if possible, so I am asking the
group to find other potential buyers (Q2 pilots who might be getting
close to needing a new prop)who might be out there.

Otherwise, I would love to hear about your particular propellor and
engine combination, performance, temps, etc.

Jay is backlogged so I may be waiting approximately 4 months before
taking delivery. The prop I am interested in will be designed for
cruise.

Cheers,

Phil Lankford


Re: Q2 Propellor on Order

Doug Humble <hawkidoug@...>
 

Phil, check with Rene Robertson. He has a propeller that I think you would like.

Doug "Hawkeye" Humble
A Sign Above www.asignabove.net
Omaha NE
N25974

----- Original Message -----
From: britmcman99
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:32 PM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Q2 Propellor on Order


Calling all Q2 pilots - I have a little bit of an activity update to
fill you all in on. I have sold my Tri-Q N87TQ and have begun to move
in a direction to begin completion of a Q2. The motor is at Revmaster
getting fitted with 94 mm bores on 78 mm stroke stoke crankshaft. The
cylinder heads are by Great Plains and it looks like we will be aiming
for a 8.2 (or less)to 1 compression ratio. The engine also gets a
modern Revmaster cam. So if everything specs out just right, maybe I
can expect an honest 78 horsepower.

I just spoke with Jay Anderson of Cloudcars Propellors and I am in the
que for a new prop. Jay mentioned he would like to tool up for
multiple orders over a single order if possible, so I am asking the
group to find other potential buyers (Q2 pilots who might be getting
close to needing a new prop)who might be out there.

Otherwise, I would love to hear about your particular propellor and
engine combination, performance, temps, etc.

Jay is backlogged so I may be waiting approximately 4 months before
taking delivery. The prop I am interested in will be designed for
cruise.

Cheers,

Phil Lankford


Re: Q2 Propellor on Order

raoborg@...
 

Hi Phil, as you know I am getting close to finish my type 4 VW engine for my Q2 so I would be interested in propeller if the price is right and the prop is wood. Let me know. Thank you Raoul

--- britmcman@... wrote:

From: "britmcman99" <britmcman@...>
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Q2 Propellor on Order
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 01:32:29 -0000

Calling all Q2 pilots - I have a little bit of an activity update to
fill you all in on. I have sold my Tri-Q N87TQ and have begun to move
in a direction to begin completion of a Q2. The motor is at Revmaster
getting fitted with 94 mm bores on 78 mm stroke stoke crankshaft. The
cylinder heads are by Great Plains and it looks like we will be aiming
for a 8.2 (or less)to 1 compression ratio. The engine also gets a
modern Revmaster cam. So if everything specs out just right, maybe I
can expect an honest 78 horsepower.

I just spoke with Jay Anderson of Cloudcars Propellors and I am in the
que for a new prop. Jay mentioned he would like to tool up for
multiple orders over a single order if possible, so I am asking the
group to find other potential buyers (Q2 pilots who might be getting
close to needing a new prop)who might be out there.

Otherwise, I would love to hear about your particular propellor and
engine combination, performance, temps, etc.

Jay is backlogged so I may be waiting approximately 4 months before
taking delivery. The prop I am interested in will be designed for
cruise.

Cheers,

Phil Lankford





_____________________________________________________________
Netscape. Just the Net You Need.


Q2 Propellor on Order

britmcman99
 

Calling all Q2 pilots - I have a little bit of an activity update to
fill you all in on. I have sold my Tri-Q N87TQ and have begun to move
in a direction to begin completion of a Q2. The motor is at Revmaster
getting fitted with 94 mm bores on 78 mm stroke stoke crankshaft. The
cylinder heads are by Great Plains and it looks like we will be aiming
for a 8.2 (or less)to 1 compression ratio. The engine also gets a
modern Revmaster cam. So if everything specs out just right, maybe I
can expect an honest 78 horsepower.

I just spoke with Jay Anderson of Cloudcars Propellors and I am in the
que for a new prop. Jay mentioned he would like to tool up for
multiple orders over a single order if possible, so I am asking the
group to find other potential buyers (Q2 pilots who might be getting
close to needing a new prop)who might be out there.

Otherwise, I would love to hear about your particular propellor and
engine combination, performance, temps, etc.

Jay is backlogged so I may be waiting approximately 4 months before
taking delivery. The prop I am interested in will be designed for
cruise.

Cheers,

Phil Lankford


Re: Q2 Propellor on Order

britmcman99
 

Those sound like good numbers, Peter. Thanks.

In a message dated 1/30/2008 8:12:50 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
peterjfharris@... writes:




Phil,

When I was configured as a Q-2 Revmaster (tail dragger) I got 140KTS level
cruise at 1500ft. Static and climb RPM was 2750RPM and max cruise was 3200 =
max horsepower.

The prop was a 56X49 Cowley wood prop. and I figured it was well matched as
a cruise prop but climb was better than 1000FPM near SL. The engine had the
larger valves and was rated at 75HP.

Peter

_____

From: _Q-LIST@... (mailto:Q-LIST@...)
[mailto:_Q-LIST@... (mailto:Q-LIST@...) ] On Behalf Of
britmcman99
Sent: Thursday, 31 January 2008 11:32 AM
To: _Q-LIST@... (mailto:Q-LIST@...)
Subject: [Q-LIST] Q2 Propellor on Order

Calling all Q2 pilots - I have a little bit of an activity update to
fill you all in on. I have sold my Tri-Q N87TQ and have begun to move
in a direction to begin completion of a Q2. The motor is at Revmaster
getting fitted with 94 mm bores on 78 mm stroke stoke crankshaft. The
cylinder heads are by Great Plains and it looks like we will be aiming
for a 8.2 (or less)to 1 compression ratio. The engine also gets a
modern Revmaster cam. So if everything specs out just right, maybe I
can expect an honest 78 horsepower.

I just spoke with Jay Anderson of Cloudcars Propellors and I am in the
que for a new prop. Jay mentioned he would like to tool up for
multiple orders over a single order if possible, so I am asking the
group to find other potential buyers (Q2 pilots who might be getting
close to needing a new prop)who might be out there.

Otherwise, I would love to hear about your particular propellor and
engine combination, performance, temps, etc.

Jay is backlogged so I may be waiting approximately 4 months before
taking delivery. The prop I am interested in will be designed for
cruise.

Cheers,

Phil Lankford

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489


Re: Q2 Propellor on Order

britmcman99
 

Hello Raoul. I think the price is just fine. I have been in contact with
Rene and he is a guiding influence in all this activity as Rene has recommended
I contact Cloudcars. Raoul, contact Jay Anderson at _cloudcars@...
(mailto:cloudcars@...) or 325-356-2810. I will probably be out the
door and delivered for under $350.00. with this prop and those VGs - ooooh,
we are gonna be so quick.

Cheers,

Phil

In a message dated 1/30/2008 7:03:28 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
raoborg@... writes:




Hi Phil, as you know I am getting close to finish my type 4 VW engine for my
Q2 so I would be interested in propeller if the price is right and the prop
is wood. Let me know. Thank you Raoul

--- _britmcman@... (mailto:britmcman@...) wrote:

From: "britmcman99" <_britmcman@... (mailto:britmcman@...) >
To: _Q-LIST@... (mailto:Q-LIST@...)
Subject: [Q-LIST] Q2 Propellor on Order
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 01:32:29 -0000

Calling all Q2 pilots - I have a little bit of an activity update to
fill you all in on. I have sold my Tri-Q N87TQ and have begun to move
in a direction to begin completion of a Q2. The motor is at Revmaster
getting fitted with 94 mm bores on 78 mm stroke stoke crankshaft. The
cylinder heads are by Great Plains and it looks like we will be aiming
for a 8.2 (or less)to 1 compression ratio. The engine also gets a
modern Revmaster cam. So if everything specs out just right, maybe I
can expect an honest 78 horsepower.

I just spoke with Jay Anderson of Cloudcars Propellors and I am in the
que for a new prop. Jay mentioned he would like to tool up for
multiple orders over a single order if possible, so I am asking the
group to find other potential buyers (Q2 pilots who might be getting
close to needing a new prop)who might be out there.

Otherwise, I would love to hear about your particular propellor and
engine combination, performance, temps, etc.

Jay is backlogged so I may be waiting approximately 4 months before
taking delivery. The prop I am interested in will be designed for
cruise.

Cheers,

Phil Lankford

__________________________________________________________
Netscape. Just the Net You Need.






**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489


Re: q1? flying

FR Jones <seabeevet@...>
 

Ground test went well and I was pleased at how easy she was to handle. The
only thing I did not like was the brake system (hand pull). There must be a
better way within weight limits.

On Jan 27, 2008 2:58 PM, Jan Safranek <jany77@...> wrote:

i readed that im interested in flying characteristics any bad habits
ground handling etc

Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins@... <sam.hoskins%40gmail.com>> wrote: Buyer
beware. There is no such thing as "just needs paint".
You can start reading here:
http://home.mchsi.com/~shoskins/wantQuickie.html

Good luck.

Sam Hoskins
Murphysboro, IL

On Jan 26, 2008 9:17 PM, jan <jany77@...<jany77%40sbcglobal.net>>
wrote:

hi guys im looking for someone who can give me more info about flying
characteristics of q1 i found one q1 on airport which needs just paint
and im interested in this bird i dont have much flying hours also so
any +/- are welcome








Re: project web pages

Joseph M Snow <1flashq@...>
 

Cameron,

I have a yearly subscription with "Go Daddy", and I have about 9 months to go. Someone else on the list might find it useful.

Joseph

uncleducati <cameron@...> wrote:
Forgive me if this is inappropriate, but I would be willing to provide
free web space if anyone wants it to host their builder website, I own
a website design/hosting company and would be willing to donate that
to anyone interested, just contact me offlist and I'll set you up.
You'd still have to design it somehow, but the hosting would be free
on our servers indefinitely :) Just a way of supporting fellow builders.

Thanks,
Cameron
San Diego
N87TQ


Re: Web page update - Wiring

Joseph M Snow <1flashq@...>
 

John,

Excellent commentary. I have already made a copy of your email and placed it on my "to do"clipboard.

I like the idea of labeling the wires. I do not understand how you could read such a lable wrapped around a 22 awg wire. The information might be read if it were printed as a long sentence, about 1-2 "...? Is this what you have in mind?

Joseph

johntenhave <johntenhave@...> wrote:
Joseph,

Good work. Your web site is an excellent illustration of the
observation that a home built aircraft project can be divided into 1/3
of the time for airframe, 1/3 for systems and 1/3 for finishing (and
maybe another 1/3 for documenting ;-))

Some comments for you to consider:

Depending upon the airflow the alternator may provide asymmetric
cooling airflow to the cylinders. Radiant heat may also affect the
reliability of the alternator. Locating it at 90 degrees would fix that..

As you have illustrated the wiring grows like topsy, and as you build
your looms wire by wire it all seems crystal clear. However, come fix
it time at some remote field, the lack of consistent labeling is going
to make it tough. (read : the avionic guy has just been handed an open
cheque.) Particularly when all the wires are considerately colour
coded white for simplicity..

Flippant question: how many folk carry a wiring diagram with them when
flying? Show of hands? Quick count? Answer, almost one..

Here is an alternative. When you do your wiring design (this did
happen first didn't it?) (Idle question: Do the terms essential buss
and auxiliary buss mean anything?) There are obvious places to put
test points, terminal blocks, multi-pin quick release sockets etc
which feature on your wiring diagram. An hour of effort can result in
a listing of all the wires.

First a quick diversion :

Each wire has two ends, and it goes from somewhere to somewhere. When
I addressed this issue my aim was deceptively simple and it was this:

To be able to pick up any wire, without any wiring diagram, and know
where it came from and where it was going.

OK how to do it? Simple. Recall our list of wires and lets take an
example :

Instrument lighting

A wire runs from the instrument lighting circuit breaker, to the
terminal block, from the terminal block to the dimmer, from the dimmer
to the light +ve and from the light -ve to earth.

So the ideal would be to label each wire saying just that. One method
which works really well is to laser print up on plain white paper (in
6pt arial) the following labels:

Inst CB to TB 2-3
TB 2-3 to Dimmer R
Dimmer B to Inst L +
Inst L - to E

Inst CB to TB 2-3
TB 2-3 to Dimmer R
Dimmer B to Inst L +
Inst L - to E

Notice we have printed them twice? That is because there are two ends.

TB 2-3? terminal block 2, terminal 3.

Dimmer R? Dimmer Red

Dimmer B? Dimmer Black

Have a system that is logical eg red at the higher potential, black
at the lower..

Next, get clear heat shrink. Cut each label out. Cut a length of heat
shrink 1/4"longer. Strip the wires and slip the label on to each end.
Cover it with heat shrink and shrink it on, leaving enough bare
insulation to complete the termination (twice).

While I was working this out, I carried a sample around in my shirt
pockets for week or so. Eventually I forgot to take it out and through
the washing machine it went. A week of submersion later when I
recovered it, no degradation. So I can now wander with impunity
around my Long Eze, multimeter in hand and know what I am measuring
and where.

Re batteries, why are you not using an Odyssey Battery, and why is it
so far from where it needs to be to do its work? CofG I suspect..

Batteries go flat. Verify that it is easy to get a set of jumper leads
onto your battery without removing the tail-cone. You might want to
consider a light weight socket(which runs to the outside of the
airframe,underneath the fuselage)and carry a custom plug with short
flying leads. Make them different lengths.

Check your unsupported lengths of wire - 10" maximum (look down your
left hand side foot well). Speaking of footwells, some of your wires
running to your common ground are very vulnerable to being stomped on.
A cover would be smart.

When your wires pass through bulkheads, grommet them or p clip them
and make the hole bigger, otherwise they will chafe through..not now,
not tomorrow, but soon. You did great work on the firewall and then
downstream - the music seemed to stop...

You also have a lot of spade terminals which are mighty close to the
firewall. Give some thought to a garden hose being sprayed through
the intake. Dust, grime and other conductive grime build up - do you
still have electrical isolation? Think about dropping a spanner into
the works....

Speaking of failures, most wiring faults occur at the terminals so it
is cheap insurance to ensure that you have enough slack in every wire
to be able to re-terminate if required. If you are really forward
thinking running an extra pair of wires or so from terminal block to
terminal block can be a life saver come modification time..

Think about loctiting your screws into the terminal blocks otherwise
vibration may back them out...oops!

Speaking of dropping, make sure you mount your contactors
horizontally, so that shock loadings do not trigger inadvertent
starter operation - the starter flashing up during a series of PIOs is
not component life prolonging. Neither is the master switch cutting in
and out.

On your next iteration, lose the solid instrument panel and put in
removable subpanels. We can talk about how to do that another time.

You have done lots of good work and you are well on the way to doing
a super job. You will be able to nip down to the nearest pilot
supplies and buy a set of Captain's rank slides in no time flat.

Hope this helps

John

--- In Q-LIST@..., Joseph M Snow <1flashq@...> wrote:

Hello Q-listers,

Here is another update of my web pages. This page is on the
electrical system. I received a number of helpful comments from my
previous update. Thank you! I am hoping you are still willing to
"look over my sholders" at this electrical system. While compiling
the page and thinking through what I had done, I found several issues
that I wanted to clean up. Perhaps you will see something I did not
see. Please let me know about it.

Here is the link: http://corvairq.info/Electrical.htm

Joseph Snow,
Q2xx, N240JS




project web pages

uncleducati <cameron@...>
 

Forgive me if this is inappropriate, but I would be willing to provide
free web space if anyone wants it to host their builder website, I own
a website design/hosting company and would be willing to donate that
to anyone interested, just contact me offlist and I'll set you up.
You'd still have to design it somehow, but the hosting would be free
on our servers indefinitely :) Just a way of supporting fellow builders.

Thanks,
Cameron
San Diego
N87TQ


Re: q1? flying

Richard Thomson
 

My wife also would like me to sell one of mine, but its probably easier to
sell the wife !! :-))


Re: Q2 Kit for Sale

Doug Humble <hawkidoug@...>
 

I saw your plane Jon and wondered for a moment if you were still with us. Then I saw the disclaimer.

Doug "Hawkeye" Humble
A Sign Above www.asignabove.net
Omaha NE
N25974

----- Original Message -----
From: Jon Finley
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 10:10 PM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Q2 Kit for Sale


Wow, taking a photo off of someone's website and using it to sell something
like you've done without at least first asking permission is not considered
very ethical to most in the IT industry...

Jon

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On Behalf Of
bob.slovak
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 6:06 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Q2 Kit for Sale

My VFW Post has acquired a Q2 kit from the widow of a member who
recently passed away. We are trying to sell it.

I have it listed on Ebay as item # 250210496046 in Ebay motors for any
who may be interested.

My thanks to one of your group whose photo I'm using as an "after".


Re: Web page update - Wiring

John ten
 

Joseph,

Good work. Your web site is an excellent illustration of the
observation that a home built aircraft project can be divided into 1/3
of the time for airframe, 1/3 for systems and 1/3 for finishing (and
maybe another 1/3 for documenting ;-))

Some comments for you to consider:

Depending upon the airflow the alternator may provide asymmetric
cooling airflow to the cylinders. Radiant heat may also affect the
reliability of the alternator. Locating it at 90 degrees would fix that..

As you have illustrated the wiring grows like topsy, and as you build
your looms wire by wire it all seems crystal clear. However, come fix
it time at some remote field, the lack of consistent labeling is going
to make it tough. (read : the avionic guy has just been handed an open
cheque.) Particularly when all the wires are considerately colour
coded white for simplicity..

Flippant question: how many folk carry a wiring diagram with them when
flying? Show of hands? Quick count? Answer, almost one..

Here is an alternative. When you do your wiring design (this did
happen first didn't it?) (Idle question: Do the terms essential buss
and auxiliary buss mean anything?) There are obvious places to put
test points, terminal blocks, multi-pin quick release sockets etc
which feature on your wiring diagram. An hour of effort can result in
a listing of all the wires.

First a quick diversion :

Each wire has two ends, and it goes from somewhere to somewhere. When
I addressed this issue my aim was deceptively simple and it was this:

To be able to pick up any wire, without any wiring diagram, and know
where it came from and where it was going.

OK how to do it? Simple. Recall our list of wires and lets take an
example :

Instrument lighting

A wire runs from the instrument lighting circuit breaker, to the
terminal block, from the terminal block to the dimmer, from the dimmer
to the light +ve and from the light -ve to earth.

So the ideal would be to label each wire saying just that. One method
which works really well is to laser print up on plain white paper (in
6pt arial) the following labels:

Inst CB to TB 2-3
TB 2-3 to Dimmer R
Dimmer B to Inst L +
Inst L - to E

Inst CB to TB 2-3
TB 2-3 to Dimmer R
Dimmer B to Inst L +
Inst L - to E

Notice we have printed them twice? That is because there are two ends.

TB 2-3? terminal block 2, terminal 3.

Dimmer R? Dimmer Red

Dimmer B? Dimmer Black

Have a system that is logical eg red at the higher potential, black
at the lower..

Next, get clear heat shrink. Cut each label out. Cut a length of heat
shrink 1/4"longer. Strip the wires and slip the label on to each end.
Cover it with heat shrink and shrink it on, leaving enough bare
insulation to complete the termination (twice).

While I was working this out, I carried a sample around in my shirt
pockets for week or so. Eventually I forgot to take it out and through
the washing machine it went. A week of submersion later when I
recovered it, no degradation. So I can now wander with impunity
around my Long Eze, multimeter in hand and know what I am measuring
and where.

Re batteries, why are you not using an Odyssey Battery, and why is it
so far from where it needs to be to do its work? CofG I suspect..

Batteries go flat. Verify that it is easy to get a set of jumper leads
onto your battery without removing the tail-cone. You might want to
consider a light weight socket(which runs to the outside of the
airframe,underneath the fuselage)and carry a custom plug with short
flying leads. Make them different lengths.

Check your unsupported lengths of wire - 10" maximum (look down your
left hand side foot well). Speaking of footwells, some of your wires
running to your common ground are very vulnerable to being stomped on.
A cover would be smart.

When your wires pass through bulkheads, grommet them or p clip them
and make the hole bigger, otherwise they will chafe through..not now,
not tomorrow, but soon. You did great work on the firewall and then
downstream - the music seemed to stop...

You also have a lot of spade terminals which are mighty close to the
firewall. Give some thought to a garden hose being sprayed through
the intake. Dust, grime and other conductive grime build up - do you
still have electrical isolation? Think about dropping a spanner into
the works....

Speaking of failures, most wiring faults occur at the terminals so it
is cheap insurance to ensure that you have enough slack in every wire
to be able to re-terminate if required. If you are really forward
thinking running an extra pair of wires or so from terminal block to
terminal block can be a life saver come modification time..

Think about loctiting your screws into the terminal blocks otherwise
vibration may back them out...oops!

Speaking of dropping, make sure you mount your contactors
horizontally, so that shock loadings do not trigger inadvertent
starter operation - the starter flashing up during a series of PIOs is
not component life prolonging. Neither is the master switch cutting in
and out.

On your next iteration, lose the solid instrument panel and put in
removable subpanels. We can talk about how to do that another time.

You have done lots of good work and you are well on the way to doing
a super job. You will be able to nip down to the nearest pilot
supplies and buy a set of Captain's rank slides in no time flat.

Hope this helps

John












--- In Q-LIST@..., Joseph M Snow <1flashq@...> wrote:

Hello Q-listers,

Here is another update of my web pages. This page is on the
electrical system. I received a number of helpful comments from my
previous update. Thank you! I am hoping you are still willing to
"look over my sholders" at this electrical system. While compiling
the page and thinking through what I had done, I found several issues
that I wanted to clean up. Perhaps you will see something I did not
see. Please let me know about it.

Here is the link: http://corvairq.info/Electrical.htm

Joseph Snow,
Q2xx, N240JS




Re: Q2 Kit for Sale

BARRY AMANDA STEARNS <stearns2559@...>
 

Lynn,

Hey, just wanted to say HI from Grand Island! How are the Q-birds? When it gets nice I'd buy ya a steak for a ride in the Q.

Barry Stearns

----- Original Message -----
From: LJFrench<mailto:LJFrench@...>
To: Q-LIST@...<mailto:Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 10:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Q2 Kit for Sale


Jon,
I saw your plane there and wondered if you might have comment on that :)
LF

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Finley" <jon@...<mailto:jon@...>>
To: <Q-LIST@...<mailto:Q-LIST@...>>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 10:10 PM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Q2 Kit for Sale

> Wow, taking a photo off of someone's website and using it to sell
> something
> like you've done without at least first asking permission is not
> considered
> very ethical to most in the IT industry...
>
> Jon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Q-LIST@...<mailto:Q-LIST%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Q-LIST@...<mailto:Q-LIST%40yahoogroups.com>]On Behalf Of
> bob.slovak
> Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 6:06 PM
> To: Q-LIST@...<mailto:Q-LIST%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [Q-LIST] Q2 Kit for Sale
>
>
> My VFW Post has acquired a Q2 kit from the widow of a member who
> recently passed away. We are trying to sell it.
>
> I have it listed on Ebay as item # 250210496046 in Ebay motors for any
> who may be interested.
>
> My thanks to one of your group whose photo I'm using as an "after".
>
>
>
> Quickie Builders Association WEB site
> http://www.quickiebuilders.org<http://www.quickiebuilders.org/>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>


Re: Q2 Kit for Sale

LJFrench <LJFrench@...>
 

Jon,
I saw your plane there and wondered if you might have comment on that :)
LF

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Finley" <jon@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 10:10 PM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Q2 Kit for Sale


Wow, taking a photo off of someone's website and using it to sell something
like you've done without at least first asking permission is not considered
very ethical to most in the IT industry...

Jon

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On Behalf Of
bob.slovak
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 6:06 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Q2 Kit for Sale


My VFW Post has acquired a Q2 kit from the widow of a member who
recently passed away. We are trying to sell it.

I have it listed on Ebay as item # 250210496046 in Ebay motors for any
who may be interested.

My thanks to one of your group whose photo I'm using as an "after".



Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: Q2 Kit for Sale

Jon Finley <jon@...>
 

Wow, taking a photo off of someone's website and using it to sell something
like you've done without at least first asking permission is not considered
very ethical to most in the IT industry...

Jon

-----Original Message-----
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]On Behalf Of
bob.slovak
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 6:06 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Q2 Kit for Sale


My VFW Post has acquired a Q2 kit from the widow of a member who
recently passed away. We are trying to sell it.

I have it listed on Ebay as item # 250210496046 in Ebay motors for any
who may be interested.

My thanks to one of your group whose photo I'm using as an "after".


Web page update

Joseph M Snow <1flashq@...>
 

Hello Q-listers,

Here is another update of my web pages. This page is on the electrical system. I received a number of helpful comments from my previous update. Thank you! I am hoping you are still willing to "look over my sholders" at this electrical system. While compiling the page and thinking through what I had done, I found several issues that I wanted to clean up. Perhaps you will see something I did not see. Please let me know about it.

Here is the link: http://corvairq.info/Electrical.htm

Joseph Snow,
Q2xx, N240JS


Re: q1? flying

FR Jones <seabeevet@...>
 

Your remarks concerning your Quickie, I could have written, even to the
timeline.
My wife wants me to sale it, but even though I have so far, only taxied
around the airport, I still have my dream of flying it... so I keep working.
N4251F

On Jan 28, 2008 1:56 PM, Richard Thomson <richard@...> wrote:

Jan,
After 18 months, I'm still stripping paint, and controls, and engine, and
instrument panel, and electrics, and fuel, and canopy, and landing gear,
and
furnishings, and T Tail ( which is repaired and refinished, but now will
come out to have reflex fitted).
But I did know that I would do 50% of that anyway, and 25% is rebuilt, so
only 75% to go, but still 35 % of paint still to strip!
Its worth stripping the paint, cus you can see what else needs doing, BUT
you also need to take it apart to see what else you cant see that also
needs
doing!!

Good luck with it.

Richard Thomson
TriQ200 G-BMFN
richard@... <richard%40cloudland.co.uk>



Q2 Kit for Sale

bob.slovak <slobob@...>
 

My VFW Post has acquired a Q2 kit from the widow of a member who
recently passed away. We are trying to sell it.

I have it listed on Ebay as item # 250210496046 in Ebay motors for any
who may be interested.

My thanks to one of your group whose photo I'm using as an "after".