Date   

Re: Sport Air Racing League 2013 by Jo Hunter (Calendar) - Lulu

Bruce Crain
 

That's my boy Sammy!! You just looked sexy!Bruce

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins@...>
To: undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: [Q-LIST] Fwd: Sport Air Racing League 2013 by Jo Hunter (Calendar) - Lulu
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2012 11:28:08 -0600



The new SARL calendars are out. Looks like I'm Miss April this year.

http://www.lulu.com/shop/jo-hunter/sport-air-racing-league-2013/calendar/product-20467181.html;jsessionid=C2A99E60A69238ACA14FCFD54D23B365






____________________________________________________________
Woman is 53 But Looks 25
Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/50adaa40950132a4073ccst04vuc


Re: Sport Air Racing League 2013 by Jo Hunter (Calendar) - Lulu

Mike Perry
 

Sam:

On the page Sam H. posted click "preview" just under the picture, then
there is a slider/arrow keys to view the months.

Mike

On 11/21/2012 10:42 AM, Sam Kittle wrote:

Sam,

Is there a link to view the calendar?

Happy Thanksgiving,

Sam Kittle

_____

From: Q-LIST@... <mailto:Q-LIST%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:Q-LIST@... <mailto:Q-LIST%40yahoogroups.com>] On
Behalf Of
Sam Hoskins
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 9:28 AM
To: undisclosed-recipients:
Subject: [Q-LIST] Fwd: Sport Air Racing League 2013 by Jo Hunter
(Calendar)
- Lulu

The new SARL calendars are out. Looks like I'm Miss April this year.

http://www.lulu.com/shop/jo-hunter/sport-air-racing-league-2013/calendar/pro
duct-20467181.html;jsessionid=C2A99E60A69238ACA14FCFD54D23B365






Re: Sport Air Racing League 2013 by Jo Hunter (Calendar) - Lulu

Skyraider
 

Try this.........     link for the calendar

Charlie NJ



________________________________
From: Sam Kittle <skittle@...>
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 1:42 PM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Fwd: Sport Air Racing League 2013 by Jo Hunter (Calendar) - Lulu


 
Sam,

Is there a link to view the calendar?

Happy Thanksgiving,

Sam Kittle

_____

From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...] On Behalf Of
Sam Hoskins
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 9:28 AM
To: undisclosed-recipients:
Subject: [Q-LIST] Fwd: Sport Air Racing League 2013 by Jo Hunter (Calendar)
- Lulu

The new SARL calendars are out. Looks like I'm Miss April this year.

http://www.lulu.com/shop/jo-hunter/sport-air-racing-league-2013/calendar/pro
duct-20467181.html;jsessionid=C2A99E60A69238ACA14FCFD54D23B365

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Sport Air Racing League 2013 by Jo Hunter (Calendar) - Lulu

Sam Kittle
 

Sam,



Is there a link to view the calendar?



Happy Thanksgiving,

Sam Kittle



_____

From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...] On Behalf Of
Sam Hoskins
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 9:28 AM
To: undisclosed-recipients:
Subject: [Q-LIST] Fwd: Sport Air Racing League 2013 by Jo Hunter (Calendar)
- Lulu





The new SARL calendars are out. Looks like I'm Miss April this year.

http://www.lulu.com/shop/jo-hunter/sport-air-racing-league-2013/calendar/pro
duct-20467181.html;jsessionid=C2A99E60A69238ACA14FCFD54D23B365


Re: Sport Air Racing League 2013 by Jo Hunter (Calendar) - Lulu

Mike Dwyer
 

Nice!

Mike Dwyer

On Nov 21, 2012 12:28 PM, "Sam Hoskins" <sam.hoskins@...> wrote:

**


The new SARL calendars are out. Looks like I'm Miss April this year.


http://www.lulu.com/shop/jo-hunter/sport-air-racing-league-2013/calendar/product-20467181.html;jsessionid=C2A99E60A69238ACA14FCFD54D23B365





Sport Air Racing League 2013 by Jo Hunter (Calendar) - Lulu

Sam Hoskins
 

The new SARL calendars are out. Looks like I'm Miss April this year.

http://www.lulu.com/shop/jo-hunter/sport-air-racing-league-2013/calendar/product-20467181.html;jsessionid=C2A99E60A69238ACA14FCFD54D23B365


Tri Q for Sale

Sam Hoskins
 

FYI - from a fellow racer.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Dave Adams <long83dt@...>
Date: Tue, Nov 20, 2012 at 9:01 PM
Subject: Tri Q for Sale
To: sam.hoskins@...


http://forum.canardaviation.com/showthread.php?t=6240****

** **

Do you know of anyone that would have interest? Just passing the ad
along. I dont know anything more than what is posted.****

** **

Dave****

** **


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Roll trim and eliminating slop (No not for the hogs!)

Paul Buckley
 

You know Mike, I really like the reminder and opportunity to review your building pictures.
It really gets my adrenalin pumping, and I have to say that you are a meticulous and neat builder ..... 'neat' as in tidy!
Good workmanship in a clean environment, fantastic.
And all in eighteen months.

Regards
Paul B.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Dwyer" <q2pilot@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2012 1:11 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Re: Roll trim and eliminating slop (No not for the hogs!)


Nice flying report Bruce. Been kinda quiet here lately!

My web site circa 27 years ago shows a few pix of the main gas tank cutout
for the elevator control rods...
http://www.warnerair.com/q200/q20.html

Mike Q200

On Mon, Nov 19, 2012 at 1:54 PM, <jay@...> wrote:

**


Hi Bruce,

Thanks for the enthusiastic and complete description of your mod. I am
still at a stage where I can do the same mod (before it requires mod-ing).
I am still having a hard time getting my head around it. I am sort of
visual, so a couple of pictures posted on the site would make this much
more clear to me. Or if you can do a video (Youtube?) maybe taken with your
phone (because it can go where a camera can't). This would show how the
whole assembly looks and works. When combined with personal your
commentary, I think it would be a best seller! Much appreciated.

Cheers,
Jay Scheevel -- Tri-Q, still building (actively)


--- In Q-LIST@..., "jcrain2@..." <jcrain2@...> wrote:

I test flew my newest modification on my TriQ 200 today! In the past 2+
weeks I cut out a hole in the top of the bottom fuel tank so I could run
push/pull tubes from the stick directly to the elevator actuator arms. The
hole wasn't big but the tubes needed a valley to run in.I used 2
turnbuckles with left and right hand treads from McMaster Carr. I lock one
turnbuckle down with jamb nuts and leave the other free to turn but which
has a limit to keep it from screwing out of the rod end bearings. My old
system used a bungee strap to pull the ailerons over to the light side of
the Q. I could see that they added a bit of stick pressure and also looked
like they might add some drag esp when I am solo and very left wing heavy
(the ailerons were quite remarkably deployed to offset).The flight today
was a much improved TriQ! I may have increased my cruise speed by about 6
to 8 mph. The jury is still out on that as I don't remember exactly what
the former cruise was. Only that the old indicated was somewhere between
145 to 147 and I don't remember what altitude those number come from (2300
to 4000 msl maybe). Today the cruise was mostly at 154 mph and that was at
4000' msl. The altimeter was 3007 and temp was around 45 degrees. My
airspeed is off about 8 to 10 mph slow at cruise so I figure true airspeed
was around 174. I could be wrong but at least I feel I had an increase in
airspeed.The stick pressures were almost surreal as I trimmed the elevator
back and forth. Just a little trim and it rolled quite nicely and easily.
The handling is much better than adjusting the bungee trim and loading up
the system. In the past I worked quite extensively on the sparrow strainers
and they are neutral for cruise without the old spring pitch trim. It has
been removed and the pitch is lite so the roll trim is not loaded up with
up or down pressures on the old spring system.All it takes to roll the
airplane left or right is one finger on the trim wheel!In the past I have
had a bit of slop in the elevator system. When I would do an aileron roll
the plane would be out of trim after the roll. So I attacked the elevator
torque tubes and actually used 4 large Cherry max pop rivets to help the -3
bolts that held them in place (I know it's going to be really tuff to get
them off in the future). Now they are rock solid! I also (with the help of
Terry Crouch's article/interview with the late Dave Richardson and his
advice and also Paul Fisher's input) did the mod to the inboard end of the
elevators. The mod makes a bit of a rib and also surrounds the tube in the
elevator with BID and also Flox. It also keeps any fuel from getting in
through the bolt hole access in the top and bottom of the inboard end of
the elevator skins compromising the bond with the tube and the surrounding
foam. The mod can now drive the entire elevator on the inboard end if
needed. Just a bond with the foam and micro was of concern for me.After the
test flight I need to adjust the elevators at the torque tubes because the
elevators don't come down enough. (The landing payed off at about 90 mph!
Whew, good thing I noticed that it took a lot more airspeed to get air
born)So in essence in the last 2 weeks I1. Improved my airspeed2.
Eliminated a safety problem with my elevators.3. Took out all the slop in
my elevators. (I did 4 aileron rolls today and the trim was spot on after
the roll!)4 Made a roll trim that is solid and easy in action.5. Cut out
the top and re-glassed the bottom fuel tank with a "valley".6. I had to
move the fuel sending unit and the overflow tube a bit to the right to make
room for the "valley" in the fuel tank. 7. Lessened the stick pressures
significantly in roll (Pitch was already lite).8. May have improved the
roll rate as the elevators actuate just a tiny bit in sinc with the
ailerons plus they are not fighting each other now. Has anyone seen "Honey
Lamb"?! She probably feels forgotten! But this weekend she had to drive
from Enid to Dallas (while the TriQ was down) to spoil our Grand babies and
see our son and daughter in law. It is a 10 hour round trip by car (and she
drives fast!). In the TriQ 200 it is just a 3 hour round trip! She loves
this airplane esp when it comes to seeing her babies!!! ;o)And I got to
spend time with my "Baby". Or as Sandy Hoskins says "the fiberglass
bit#@ch" (Oh thanks Sam for always answering my phone calls with questions)
Get em done guys! In this day and age, of fuel prices and airspeed, the
Quickies just make great sense!!! Bruce Crain
__________________________________________________________
Woman is 53 But Looks 25
Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/50a9ab0a37dee2b096ebest01vuc






------------------------------------

Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org

Yahoo! Groups Links





-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5905 - Release Date: 11/19/12


Re: Roll trim and eliminating slop (No not for the hogs!)

Bruce Crain
 

Thanks Mike,The bottom pic shows the fuel tank cut out very well! I hope to get a pic or 2 into Dan with the newsletter to send to everyone. It flight on Sunday was almost surreal as the stick responses were so smooth and the trim easy and controllable.Bruce

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Mike Dwyer <q2pilot@...>
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Re: Roll trim and eliminating slop (No not for the hogs!)
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 20:11:01 -0500

Nice flying report Bruce. Been kinda quiet here lately!

My web site circa 27 years ago shows a few pix of the main gas tank cutout
for the elevator control rods...
http://www.warnerair.com/q200/q20.html

Mike Q200

On Mon, Nov 19, 2012 at 1:54 PM, <jay@...> wrote:

**


Hi Bruce,

Thanks for the enthusiastic and complete description of your mod. I am
still at a stage where I can do the same mod (before it requires mod-ing).
I am still having a hard time getting my head around it. I am sort of
visual, so a couple of pictures posted on the site would make this much
more clear to me. Or if you can do a video (Youtube?) maybe taken with your
phone (because it can go where a camera can't). This would show how the
whole assembly looks and works. When combined with personal your
commentary, I think it would be a best seller! Much appreciated.

Cheers,
Jay Scheevel -- Tri-Q, still building (actively)


--- In Q-LIST@..., "jcrain2@..." <jcrain2@...> wrote:

I test flew my newest modification on my TriQ 200 today! In the past 2+
weeks I cut out a hole in the top of the bottom fuel tank so I could run
push/pull tubes from the stick directly to the elevator actuator arms. The
hole wasn't big but the tubes needed a valley to run in.I used 2
turnbuckles with left and right hand treads from McMaster Carr. I lock one
turnbuckle down with jamb nuts and leave the other free to turn but which
has a limit to keep it from screwing out of the rod end bearings. My old
system used a bungee strap to pull the ailerons over to the light side of
the Q. I could see that they added a bit of stick pressure and also looked
like they might add some drag esp when I am solo and very left wing heavy
(the ailerons were quite remarkably deployed to offset).The flight today
was a much improved TriQ! I may have increased my cruise speed by about 6
to 8 mph. The jury is still out on that as I don't remember exactly what
the former cruise was. Only that the old indicated was somewhere between
145 to 147 and I don't remember what altitude those number come from (2300
to 4000 msl maybe). Today the cruise was mostly at 154 mph and that was at
4000' msl. The altimeter was 3007 and temp was around 45 degrees. My
airspeed is off about 8 to 10 mph slow at cruise so I figure true airspeed
was around 174. I could be wrong but at least I feel I had an increase in
airspeed.The stick pressures were almost surreal as I trimmed the elevator
back and forth. Just a little trim and it rolled quite nicely and easily.
The handling is much better than adjusting the bungee trim and loading up
the system. In the past I worked quite extensively on the sparrow strainers
and they are neutral for cruise without the old spring pitch trim. It has
been removed and the pitch is lite so the roll trim is not loaded up with
up or down pressures on the old spring system.All it takes to roll the
airplane left or right is one finger on the trim wheel!In the past I have
had a bit of slop in the elevator system. When I would do an aileron roll
the plane would be out of trim after the roll. So I attacked the elevator
torque tubes and actually used 4 large Cherry max pop rivets to help the -3
bolts that held them in place (I know it's going to be really tuff to get
them off in the future). Now they are rock solid! I also (with the help of
Terry Crouch's article/interview with the late Dave Richardson and his
advice and also Paul Fisher's input) did the mod to the inboard end of the
elevators. The mod makes a bit of a rib and also surrounds the tube in the
elevator with BID and also Flox. It also keeps any fuel from getting in
through the bolt hole access in the top and bottom of the inboard end of
the elevator skins compromising the bond with the tube and the surrounding
foam. The mod can now drive the entire elevator on the inboard end if
needed. Just a bond with the foam and micro was of concern for me.After the
test flight I need to adjust the elevators at the torque tubes because the
elevators don't come down enough. (The landing payed off at about 90 mph!
Whew, good thing I noticed that it took a lot more airspeed to get air
born)So in essence in the last 2 weeks I1. Improved my airspeed2.
Eliminated a safety problem with my elevators.3. Took out all the slop in
my elevators. (I did 4 aileron rolls today and the trim was spot on after
the roll!)4 Made a roll trim that is solid and easy in action.5. Cut out
the top and re-glassed the bottom fuel tank with a "valley".6. I had to
move the fuel sending unit and the overflow tube a bit to the right to make
room for the "valley" in the fuel tank. 7. Lessened the stick pressures
significantly in roll (Pitch was already lite).8. May have improved the
roll rate as the elevators actuate just a tiny bit in sinc with the
ailerons plus they are not fighting each other now. Has anyone seen "Honey
Lamb"?! She probably feels forgotten! But this weekend she had to drive
from Enid to Dallas (while the TriQ was down) to spoil our Grand babies and
see our son and daughter in law. It is a 10 hour round trip by car (and she
drives fast!). In the TriQ 200 it is just a 3 hour round trip! She loves
this airplane esp when it comes to seeing her babies!!! ;o)And I got to
spend time with my "Baby". Or as Sandy Hoskins says "the fiberglass
bit#@ch" (Oh thanks Sam for always answering my phone calls with questions)
Get em done guys! In this day and age, of fuel prices and airspeed, the
Quickies just make great sense!!! Bruce Crain
__________________________________________________________
Woman is 53 But Looks 25
Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/50a9ab0a37dee2b096ebest01vuc








------------------------------------

Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org

Yahoo! Groups Links



____________________________________________________________
Woman is 53 But Looks 25
Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/50ab00647a842647519st01vuc


Re: Roll trim and eliminating slop (No not for the hogs!)

Mike Dwyer
 

Nice flying report Bruce. Been kinda quiet here lately!

My web site circa 27 years ago shows a few pix of the main gas tank cutout
for the elevator control rods...
http://www.warnerair.com/q200/q20.html

Mike Q200

On Mon, Nov 19, 2012 at 1:54 PM, <jay@...> wrote:

**


Hi Bruce,

Thanks for the enthusiastic and complete description of your mod. I am
still at a stage where I can do the same mod (before it requires mod-ing).
I am still having a hard time getting my head around it. I am sort of
visual, so a couple of pictures posted on the site would make this much
more clear to me. Or if you can do a video (Youtube?) maybe taken with your
phone (because it can go where a camera can't). This would show how the
whole assembly looks and works. When combined with personal your
commentary, I think it would be a best seller! Much appreciated.

Cheers,
Jay Scheevel -- Tri-Q, still building (actively)


--- In Q-LIST@..., "jcrain2@..." <jcrain2@...> wrote:

I test flew my newest modification on my TriQ 200 today! In the past 2+
weeks I cut out a hole in the top of the bottom fuel tank so I could run
push/pull tubes from the stick directly to the elevator actuator arms. The
hole wasn't big but the tubes needed a valley to run in.I used 2
turnbuckles with left and right hand treads from McMaster Carr. I lock one
turnbuckle down with jamb nuts and leave the other free to turn but which
has a limit to keep it from screwing out of the rod end bearings. My old
system used a bungee strap to pull the ailerons over to the light side of
the Q. I could see that they added a bit of stick pressure and also looked
like they might add some drag esp when I am solo and very left wing heavy
(the ailerons were quite remarkably deployed to offset).The flight today
was a much improved TriQ! I may have increased my cruise speed by about 6
to 8 mph. The jury is still out on that as I don't remember exactly what
the former cruise was. Only that the old indicated was somewhere between
145 to 147 and I don't remember what altitude those number come from (2300
to 4000 msl maybe). Today the cruise was mostly at 154 mph and that was at
4000' msl. The altimeter was 3007 and temp was around 45 degrees. My
airspeed is off about 8 to 10 mph slow at cruise so I figure true airspeed
was around 174. I could be wrong but at least I feel I had an increase in
airspeed.The stick pressures were almost surreal as I trimmed the elevator
back and forth. Just a little trim and it rolled quite nicely and easily.
The handling is much better than adjusting the bungee trim and loading up
the system. In the past I worked quite extensively on the sparrow strainers
and they are neutral for cruise without the old spring pitch trim. It has
been removed and the pitch is lite so the roll trim is not loaded up with
up or down pressures on the old spring system.All it takes to roll the
airplane left or right is one finger on the trim wheel!In the past I have
had a bit of slop in the elevator system. When I would do an aileron roll
the plane would be out of trim after the roll. So I attacked the elevator
torque tubes and actually used 4 large Cherry max pop rivets to help the -3
bolts that held them in place (I know it's going to be really tuff to get
them off in the future). Now they are rock solid! I also (with the help of
Terry Crouch's article/interview with the late Dave Richardson and his
advice and also Paul Fisher's input) did the mod to the inboard end of the
elevators. The mod makes a bit of a rib and also surrounds the tube in the
elevator with BID and also Flox. It also keeps any fuel from getting in
through the bolt hole access in the top and bottom of the inboard end of
the elevator skins compromising the bond with the tube and the surrounding
foam. The mod can now drive the entire elevator on the inboard end if
needed. Just a bond with the foam and micro was of concern for me.After the
test flight I need to adjust the elevators at the torque tubes because the
elevators don't come down enough. (The landing payed off at about 90 mph!
Whew, good thing I noticed that it took a lot more airspeed to get air
born)So in essence in the last 2 weeks I1. Improved my airspeed2.
Eliminated a safety problem with my elevators.3. Took out all the slop in
my elevators. (I did 4 aileron rolls today and the trim was spot on after
the roll!)4 Made a roll trim that is solid and easy in action.5. Cut out
the top and re-glassed the bottom fuel tank with a "valley".6. I had to
move the fuel sending unit and the overflow tube a bit to the right to make
room for the "valley" in the fuel tank. 7. Lessened the stick pressures
significantly in roll (Pitch was already lite).8. May have improved the
roll rate as the elevators actuate just a tiny bit in sinc with the
ailerons plus they are not fighting each other now. Has anyone seen "Honey
Lamb"?! She probably feels forgotten! But this weekend she had to drive
from Enid to Dallas (while the TriQ was down) to spoil our Grand babies and
see our son and daughter in law. It is a 10 hour round trip by car (and she
drives fast!). In the TriQ 200 it is just a 3 hour round trip! She loves
this airplane esp when it comes to seeing her babies!!! ;o)And I got to
spend time with my "Baby". Or as Sandy Hoskins says "the fiberglass
bit#@ch" (Oh thanks Sam for always answering my phone calls with questions)
Get em done guys! In this day and age, of fuel prices and airspeed, the
Quickies just make great sense!!! Bruce Crain
__________________________________________________________
Woman is 53 But Looks 25
Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/50a9ab0a37dee2b096ebest01vuc

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Roll trim and eliminating slop (No not for the hogs!)

Sam Hoskins
 

That's what I have.

Sam

Sent via this wireless gizmo.

On Nov 19, 2012 6:35 PM, "larry severson" <larry2@...> wrote:

**


There is a simpler method. Separate the two sides
of the elevator control. Put in 2 push rods from
the stick. Place a turnbuckle on one of the push
rods. It will allow you to change the incidence
of the related elevator side giving easy, complete roll control.

At 10:54 AM 11/19/2012, you wrote:


Hi Bruce,

Thanks for the enthusiastic and complete
description of your mod. I am still at a stage
where I can do the same mod (before it requires
mod-ing). I am still having a hard time getting
my head around it. I am sort of visual, so a
couple of pictures posted on the site would make
this much more clear to me. Or if you can do a
video (Youtube?) maybe taken with your phone
(because it can go where a camera can't). This
would show how the whole assembly looks and
works. When combined with personal your
commentary, I think it would be a best seller! Much appreciated.

Cheers,
Jay Scheevel -- Tri-Q, still building (actively)

--- In
<mailto:Q-LIST%40yahoogroups.com>Q-LIST@...,
"jcrain2@..." <jcrain2@...> wrote:

I test flew my newest modification on my TriQ
200 today! In the past 2+ weeks I cut out a
hole in the top of the bottom fuel tank so I
could run push/pull tubes from the stick
directly to the elevator actuator arms. The
hole wasn't big but the tubes needed a valley
to run in.I used 2 turnbuckles with left and
right hand treads from McMaster Carr. I lock
one turnbuckle down with jamb nuts and leave
the other free to turn but which has a limit to
keep it from screwing out of the rod end
bearings. My old system used a bungee strap to
pull the ailerons over to the light side of the
Q. I could see that they added a bit of stick
pressure and also looked like they might add
some drag esp when I am solo and very left wing
heavy (the ailerons were quite remarkably
deployed to offset).The flight today was a much
improved TriQ! I may have increased my cruise
speed by about 6 to 8 mph. The jury is still
out on that as I don't remember exactly what
the former cruise was. Only that the old
indicated was somewhere between 145 to 147 and
I don't remember what altitude those number
come from (2300 to 4000 msl maybe). Today the
cruise was mostly at 154 mph and that was at
4000' msl. The altimeter was 3007 and temp was
around 45 degrees. My airspeed is off about 8
to 10 mph slow at cruise so I figure true
airspeed was around 174. I could be wrong but
at least I feel I had an increase in
airspeed.The stick pressures were almost
surreal as I trimmed the elevator back and
forth. Just a little trim and it rolled quite
nicely and easily. The handling is much better
than adjusting the bungee trim and loading up
the system. In the past I worked quite
extensively on the sparrow strainers and they
are neutral for cruise without the old spring
pitch trim. It has been removed and the pitch
is lite so the roll trim is not loaded up with
up or down pressures on the old spring
system.All it takes to roll the airplane left
or right is one finger on the trim wheel!In the
past I have had a bit of slop in the elevator
system. When I would do an aileron roll the
plane would be out of trim after the roll. So I
attacked the elevator torque tubes and actually
used 4 large Cherry max pop rivets to help the
-3 bolts that held them in place (I know it's
going to be really tuff to get them off in the
future). Now they are rock solid! I also (with
the help of Terry Crouch's article/interview
with the late Dave Richardson and his advice
and also Paul Fisher's input) did the mod to
the inboard end of the elevators. The mod makes
a bit of a rib and also surrounds the tube in
the elevator with BID and also Flox. It also
keeps any fuel from getting in through the bolt
hole access in the top and bottom of the
inboard end of the elevator skins compromising
the bond with the tube and the surrounding
foam. The mod can now drive the entire elevator
on the inboard end if needed. Just a bond with
the foam and micro was of concern for me.After
the test flight I need to adjust the elevators
at the torque tubes because the elevators don't
come down> __________________________________________________________
Woman is 53 But Looks 25
Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...
<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/50a9ab0a37dee2b096ebest01vuc>
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/50a9ab0a37dee2b096ebest01vuc

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Larry Severson
18242 Peters Ct
Fountain valley, CA 92708
(714) 968-9852

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: Roll trim and eliminating slop (No not for the hogs!)

Larry Severson
 

There is a simpler method. Separate the two sides
of the elevator control. Put in 2 push rods from
the stick. Place a turnbuckle on one of the push
rods. It will allow you to change the incidence
of the related elevator side giving easy, complete roll control.

At 10:54 AM 11/19/2012, you wrote:


Hi Bruce,

Thanks for the enthusiastic and complete
description of your mod. I am still at a stage
where I can do the same mod (before it requires
mod-ing). I am still having a hard time getting
my head around it. I am sort of visual, so a
couple of pictures posted on the site would make
this much more clear to me. Or if you can do a
video (Youtube?) maybe taken with your phone
(because it can go where a camera can't). This
would show how the whole assembly looks and
works. When combined with personal your
commentary, I think it would be a best seller! Much appreciated.

Cheers,
Jay Scheevel -- Tri-Q, still building (actively)

--- In
<mailto:Q-LIST%40yahoogroups.com>Q-LIST@...,
"jcrain2@..." <jcrain2@...> wrote:

I test flew my newest modification on my TriQ
200 today! In the past 2+ weeks I cut out a
hole in the top of the bottom fuel tank so I
could run push/pull tubes from the stick
directly to the elevator actuator arms. The
hole wasn't big but the tubes needed a valley
to run in.I used 2 turnbuckles with left and
right hand treads from McMaster Carr. I lock
one turnbuckle down with jamb nuts and leave
the other free to turn but which has a limit to
keep it from screwing out of the rod end
bearings. My old system used a bungee strap to
pull the ailerons over to the light side of the
Q. I could see that they added a bit of stick
pressure and also looked like they might add
some drag esp when I am solo and very left wing
heavy (the ailerons were quite remarkably
deployed to offset).The flight today was a much
improved TriQ! I may have increased my cruise
speed by about 6 to 8 mph. The jury is still
out on that as I don't remember exactly what
the former cruise was. Only that the old
indicated was somewhere between 145 to 147 and
I don't remember what altitude those number
come from (2300 to 4000 msl maybe). Today the
cruise was mostly at 154 mph and that was at
4000' msl. The altimeter was 3007 and temp was
around 45 degrees. My airspeed is off about 8
to 10 mph slow at cruise so I figure true
airspeed was around 174. I could be wrong but
at least I feel I had an increase in
airspeed.The stick pressures were almost
surreal as I trimmed the elevator back and
forth. Just a little trim and it rolled quite
nicely and easily. The handling is much better
than adjusting the bungee trim and loading up
the system. In the past I worked quite
extensively on the sparrow strainers and they
are neutral for cruise without the old spring
pitch trim. It has been removed and the pitch
is lite so the roll trim is not loaded up with
up or down pressures on the old spring
system.All it takes to roll the airplane left
or right is one finger on the trim wheel!In the
past I have had a bit of slop in the elevator
system. When I would do an aileron roll the
plane would be out of trim after the roll. So I
attacked the elevator torque tubes and actually
used 4 large Cherry max pop rivets to help the
-3 bolts that held them in place (I know it's
going to be really tuff to get them off in the
future). Now they are rock solid! I also (with
the help of Terry Crouch's article/interview
with the late Dave Richardson and his advice
and also Paul Fisher's input) did the mod to
the inboard end of the elevators. The mod makes
a bit of a rib and also surrounds the tube in
the elevator with BID and also Flox. It also
keeps any fuel from getting in through the bolt
hole access in the top and bottom of the
inboard end of the elevator skins compromising
the bond with the tube and the surrounding
foam. The mod can now drive the entire elevator
on the inboard end if needed. Just a bond with
the foam and micro was of concern for me.After
the test flight I need to adjust the elevators
at the torque tubes because the elevators don't
come down> __________________________________________________________
Woman is 53 But Looks 25
Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...
<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/50a9ab0a37dee2b096ebest01vuc>http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/50a9ab0a37dee2b096ebest01vuc

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Larry Severson
18242 Peters Ct
Fountain valley, CA 92708
(714) 968-9852

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: TriQ Nose leg query

Richard Thomson
 

Thanks for the previous responses guys.

Mick, did you get chance to confirm what clearance you have with yours ?

Rich K,

I agree that the natural reaction is to pivot on the mounting plate so trying to pull the end of the leg off the spar, but that assumes that the plate does not move. If there is a clearance between the leg just rear of the plate, then the reation is to force the plate up the firewall, so by having a pad to take up any space will help to prevent this and spread the load, and not stress the weld.
My mounting plate is well floxed into place, with plenty inside the lightening holes, so feels solid.enough, but it seems sensible to have the leg snug against the canard skin to stop movement but this is not easy to set up for the uprated leg on LS1 spar without liquid shimming.

Rich T

TriQ200


Re: Roll trim and eliminating slop (No not for the hogs!)

Jay Scheevel
 

Hi Bruce,

Thanks for the enthusiastic and complete description of your mod. I am still at a stage where I can do the same mod (before it requires mod-ing). I am still having a hard time getting my head around it. I am sort of visual, so a couple of pictures posted on the site would make this much more clear to me. Or if you can do a video (Youtube?) maybe taken with your phone (because it can go where a camera can't). This would show how the whole assembly looks and works. When combined with personal your commentary, I think it would be a best seller! Much appreciated.

Cheers,
Jay Scheevel -- Tri-Q, still building (actively)

--- In Q-LIST@..., "jcrain2@..." <jcrain2@...> wrote:

I test flew my newest modification on my TriQ 200 today! In the past 2+ weeks I cut out a hole in the top of the bottom fuel tank so I could run push/pull tubes from the stick directly to the elevator actuator arms. The hole wasn't big but the tubes needed a valley to run in.I used 2 turnbuckles with left and right hand treads from McMaster Carr. I lock one turnbuckle down with jamb nuts and leave the other free to turn but which has a limit to keep it from screwing out of the rod end bearings. My old system used a bungee strap to pull the ailerons over to the light side of the Q. I could see that they added a bit of stick pressure and also looked like they might add some drag esp when I am solo and very left wing heavy (the ailerons were quite remarkably deployed to offset).The flight today was a much improved TriQ! I may have increased my cruise speed by about 6 to 8 mph. The jury is still out on that as I don't remember exactly what the former cruise was. Only that the old indicated was somewhere between 145 to 147 and I don't remember what altitude those number come from (2300 to 4000 msl maybe). Today the cruise was mostly at 154 mph and that was at 4000' msl. The altimeter was 3007 and temp was around 45 degrees. My airspeed is off about 8 to 10 mph slow at cruise so I figure true airspeed was around 174. I could be wrong but at least I feel I had an increase in airspeed.The stick pressures were almost surreal as I trimmed the elevator back and forth. Just a little trim and it rolled quite nicely and easily. The handling is much better than adjusting the bungee trim and loading up the system. In the past I worked quite extensively on the sparrow strainers and they are neutral for cruise without the old spring pitch trim. It has been removed and the pitch is lite so the roll trim is not loaded up with up or down pressures on the old spring system.All it takes to roll the airplane left or right is one finger on the trim wheel!In the past I have had a bit of slop in the elevator system. When I would do an aileron roll the plane would be out of trim after the roll. So I attacked the elevator torque tubes and actually used 4 large Cherry max pop rivets to help the -3 bolts that held them in place (I know it's going to be really tuff to get them off in the future). Now they are rock solid! I also (with the help of Terry Crouch's article/interview with the late Dave Richardson and his advice and also Paul Fisher's input) did the mod to the inboard end of the elevators. The mod makes a bit of a rib and also surrounds the tube in the elevator with BID and also Flox. It also keeps any fuel from getting in through the bolt hole access in the top and bottom of the inboard end of the elevator skins compromising the bond with the tube and the surrounding foam. The mod can now drive the entire elevator on the inboard end if needed. Just a bond with the foam and micro was of concern for me.After the test flight I need to adjust the elevators at the torque tubes because the elevators don't come down enough. (The landing payed off at about 90 mph! Whew, good thing I noticed that it took a lot more airspeed to get air born)So in essence in the last 2 weeks I1. Improved my airspeed2. Eliminated a safety problem with my elevators.3. Took out all the slop in my elevators. (I did 4 aileron rolls today and the trim was spot on after the roll!)4 Made a roll trim that is solid and easy in action.5. Cut out the top and re-glassed the bottom fuel tank with a "valley".6. I had to move the fuel sending unit and the overflow tube a bit to the right to make room for the "valley" in the fuel tank. 7. Lessened the stick pressures significantly in roll (Pitch was already lite).8. May have improved the roll rate as the elevators actuate just a tiny bit in sinc with the ailerons plus they are not fighting each other now. Has anyone seen "Honey Lamb"?! She probably feels forgotten! But this weekend she had to drive from Enid to Dallas (while the TriQ was down) to spoil our Grand babies and see our son and daughter in law. It is a 10 hour round trip by car (and she drives fast!). In the TriQ 200 it is just a 3 hour round trip! She loves this airplane esp when it comes to seeing her babies!!! ;o)And I got to spend time with my "Baby". Or as Sandy Hoskins says "the fiberglass bit#@ch" (Oh thanks Sam for always answering my phone calls with questions) Get em done guys! In this day and age, of fuel prices and airspeed, the Quickies just make great sense!!! Bruce Crain
____________________________________________________________
Woman is 53 But Looks 25
Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/50a9ab0a37dee2b096ebest01vuc



Re: Bleeding brakes

hargin
 

Tech at Matco gave this response. Mitch,
They aren’t MATCO units. It is possible they are an old Rosenhan which would be similar to our old MC-1. We do sell rebuild kits for them. The MCRBD1 is the part numbr and is on our website at:
This was on the master cylinder.
On Nov 19, 2012, at 3:52 AM, "Mick Davies" <mickdavies1967@...> wrote:

http://www.matcomfg.com/InternalCaliperBrakes-tp2-37.html

From: Skyraider
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 3:48 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Bleeding brakes

Mitch,
FYI, these are pics of Matco cylinders...

http://www.matcomfg.com/MasterCylinders-tp2-5.html

Charlie NJ

________________________________
From: Mitch <mailto:hargin%40yahoo.com>
To: "mailto:Q-LIST%40yahoogroups.com" <mailto:Q-LIST%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 10:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Bleeding brakes



Maybe they aren't matco. The nipple is toward the bottom front.

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 18, 2012, at 3:26 AM, "Mick Davies" <mailto:mickdavies1967%40yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

If you are pushing fluid from the caliper, where is the bleed nipple ? I have Matco calipers on mine and in order to “reverse bleed” I have to remove the caliper and invert it whilst bleeding otherwise there will be an air bubble stuck in the cylinder.
Mick
Tri Q200
G-BWIZ

From: Mitch
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2012 10:50 PM
To: mailto:Q-LIST%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Q-LIST] Bleeding brakes

I've put on new tires and brake pads and had to remove everything from the gear struts. It is back together but can't get right brake to work. Feels like air in the line. Is there something I'm missing or do I just keep pushing fluid up from the bottom until it stiffens up. I've pushed(spilled). A half a quart or more. Thought there was something wrong with master cylinder. Did one arm gymnastics and took it out and it stiffens up on the bench. Now I'm using up the other half quart.
Thanks,
Mitch
N311DM

Sent from my iPad













[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Bleeding brakes

Mick Davies <mickdavies1967@...>
 

http://www.matcomfg.com/InternalCaliperBrakes-tp2-37.html

From: Skyraider
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 3:48 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Bleeding brakes


Mitch,
FYI, these are pics of Matco cylinders...

http://www.matcomfg.com/MasterCylinders-tp2-5.html

Charlie NJ

________________________________
From: Mitch <mailto:hargin%40yahoo.com>
To: "mailto:Q-LIST%40yahoogroups.com" <mailto:Q-LIST%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 10:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Bleeding brakes



Maybe they aren't matco. The nipple is toward the bottom front.

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 18, 2012, at 3:26 AM, "Mick Davies" <mailto:mickdavies1967%40yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

If you are pushing fluid from the caliper, where is the bleed nipple ? I have Matco calipers on mine and in order to “reverse bleed” I have to remove the caliper and invert it whilst bleeding otherwise there will be an air bubble stuck in the cylinder.
Mick
Tri Q200
G-BWIZ

From: Mitch
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2012 10:50 PM
To: mailto:Q-LIST%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Q-LIST] Bleeding brakes

I've put on new tires and brake pads and had to remove everything from the gear struts. It is back together but can't get right brake to work. Feels like air in the line. Is there something I'm missing or do I just keep pushing fluid up from the bottom until it stiffens up. I've pushed(spilled). A half a quart or more. Thought there was something wrong with master cylinder. Did one arm gymnastics and took it out and it stiffens up on the bench. Now I'm using up the other half quart.
Thanks,
Mitch
N311DM

Sent from my iPad

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Roll trim and eliminating slop (No not for the hogs!)

Bruce Crain
 

I test flew my newest modification on my TriQ 200 today! In the past 2+ weeks I cut out a hole in the top of the bottom fuel tank so I could run push/pull tubes from the stick directly to the elevator actuator arms. The hole wasn't big but the tubes needed a valley to run in.I used 2 turnbuckles with left and right hand treads from McMaster Carr. I lock one turnbuckle down with jamb nuts and leave the other free to turn but which has a limit to keep it from screwing out of the rod end bearings. My old system used a bungee strap to pull the ailerons over to the light side of the Q. I could see that they added a bit of stick pressure and also looked like they might add some drag esp when I am solo and very left wing heavy (the ailerons were quite remarkably deployed to offset).The flight today was a much improved TriQ! I may have increased my cruise speed by about 6 to 8 mph. The jury is still out on that as I don't remember exactly what the former cruise was. Only that the old indicated was somewhere between 145 to 147 and I don't remember what altitude those number come from (2300 to 4000 msl maybe). Today the cruise was mostly at 154 mph and that was at 4000' msl. The altimeter was 3007 and temp was around 45 degrees. My airspeed is off about 8 to 10 mph slow at cruise so I figure true airspeed was around 174. I could be wrong but at least I feel I had an increase in airspeed.The stick pressures were almost surreal as I trimmed the elevator back and forth. Just a little trim and it rolled quite nicely and easily. The handling is much better than adjusting the bungee trim and loading up the system. In the past I worked quite extensively on the sparrow strainers and they are neutral for cruise without the old spring pitch trim. It has been removed and the pitch is lite so the roll trim is not loaded up with up or down pressures on the old spring system.All it takes to roll the airplane left or right is one finger on the trim wheel!In the past I have had a bit of slop in the elevator system. When I would do an aileron roll the plane would be out of trim after the roll. So I attacked the elevator torque tubes and actually used 4 large Cherry max pop rivets to help the -3 bolts that held them in place (I know it's going to be really tuff to get them off in the future). Now they are rock solid! I also (with the help of Terry Crouch's article/interview with the late Dave Richardson and his advice and also Paul Fisher's input) did the mod to the inboard end of the elevators. The mod makes a bit of a rib and also surrounds the tube in the elevator with BID and also Flox. It also keeps any fuel from getting in through the bolt hole access in the top and bottom of the inboard end of the elevator skins compromising the bond with the tube and the surrounding foam. The mod can now drive the entire elevator on the inboard end if needed. Just a bond with the foam and micro was of concern for me.After the test flight I need to adjust the elevators at the torque tubes because the elevators don't come down enough. (The landing payed off at about 90 mph! Whew, good thing I noticed that it took a lot more airspeed to get air born)So in essence in the last 2 weeks I1. Improved my airspeed2. Eliminated a safety problem with my elevators.3. Took out all the slop in my elevators. (I did 4 aileron rolls today and the trim was spot on after the roll!)4 Made a roll trim that is solid and easy in action.5. Cut out the top and re-glassed the bottom fuel tank with a "valley".6. I had to move the fuel sending unit and the overflow tube a bit to the right to make room for the "valley" in the fuel tank. 7. Lessened the stick pressures significantly in roll (Pitch was already lite).8. May have improved the roll rate as the elevators actuate just a tiny bit in sinc with the ailerons plus they are not fighting each other now. Has anyone seen "Honey Lamb"?! She probably feels forgotten! But this weekend she had to drive from Enid to Dallas (while the TriQ was down) to spoil our Grand babies and see our son and daughter in law. It is a 10 hour round trip by car (and she drives fast!). In the TriQ 200 it is just a 3 hour round trip! She loves this airplane esp when it comes to seeing her babies!!! ;o)And I got to spend time with my "Baby". Or as Sandy Hoskins says "the fiberglass bit#@ch" (Oh thanks Sam for always answering my phone calls with questions) Get em done guys! In this day and age, of fuel prices and airspeed, the Quickies just make great sense!!! Bruce Crain
____________________________________________________________
Woman is 53 But Looks 25
Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/50a9ab0a37dee2b096ebest01vuc


MODERATE -- staffordconsultants@cox.net posted to Q-LIST

Patrick Panzera
 

Yes I do.

Just click this link.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.382962585111865.88732.133387926736000&type=1

Pat


---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: GEN RON STAFFORD <staffordconsultants@...>
To: "Q-LIST@..." <Q-LIST@...>
Cc:
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2012 08:12:00 -0700
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Dragonfly for sale
9 November 2012

Do you have photos, specs, price, and location?

Gen Ron Stafford Mobile

On Nov 9, 2012, at 4:28, Patrick Panzera <editor@...> wrote:

I have a Dragonfly for sale, one that was donated to CONTACT! Magazine.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.382962585111865.88732.133387926736000&type=1
CONTACT! operates as a 501(c)3 and from time to time people donate
planes, projects, parts, etc.

--
Thanks!

Patrick Panzera
Editor@...
www.ContactMagazine.com
Patrick@...
www.Construction-Designs.com


Re: Bleeding brakes

Skyraider
 

Mitch,
FYI,  these are pics of Matco cylinders...

http://www.matcomfg.com/MasterCylinders-tp2-5.html 


Charlie NJ


________________________________
From: Mitch <hargin@...>
To: "Q-LIST@..." <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 10:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Bleeding brakes


 
Maybe they aren't matco. The nipple is toward the bottom front.

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 18, 2012, at 3:26 AM, "Mick Davies" <mickdavies1967@...> wrote:

If you are pushing fluid from the caliper, where is the bleed nipple ? I have Matco calipers on mine and in order to “reverse bleed” I have to remove the caliper and invert it whilst bleeding otherwise there will be an air bubble stuck in the cylinder.
Mick
Tri Q200
G-BWIZ

From: Mitch
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2012 10:50 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Bleeding brakes

I've put on new tires and brake pads and had to remove everything from the gear struts. It is back together but can't get right brake to work. Feels like air in the line. Is there something I'm missing or do I just keep pushing fluid up from the bottom until it stiffens up. I've pushed(spilled). A half a quart or more. Thought there was something wrong with master cylinder. Did one arm gymnastics and took it out and it stiffens up on the bench. Now I'm using up the other half quart.
Thanks,
Mitch
N311DM

Sent from my iPad








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


brake that won't bleed.

hargin
 

Begin forwarded message:

From: Mitch <hargin@...>
Date: November 18, 2012, 9:10:16 AM CST
To: "hargin@..." <hargin@...>






Sent from my iPad

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