Date   

Re: Brake Bleed Methods

ΕΔΔΥ . <overlordmustafa@...>
 

There is another method that you can do by yourself.  After you get the system nice and clean, run a tube from the bleeder nipple to the reservoir.  Keep pumping to your hearts content.  You'll never run out as you're circulating the fluid.  If you're worried about contaminants add a filter in the loop.  A paper paint strainer or even an inline fuel filter.

On Fri, Aug 16, 2019 at 2:32 PM 'Jay Scheevel SGT' jay@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
 

I generally come up with a strategy to do everything as a single person. Comes from 10+ years of living by myself. So here’s my story.

 

Plan A. I put a jar of brake fluid and a clear tube from the bleeder into it, (tube full of fluid), then opened the bleeder. Then I have a little 12 V vacuum pump that I hooked up to the fill fitting in the top of the master cylinder. I thought: air bubbles move easier uphill and vacuum will just make it even better. Guess what? I was wrong. Did not work. Brake never got solid.

 

So….

 

Plan B. Used the little oil can trick and a flexible hose attached to the fill fitting on the top of the master. Opened the bleeder at the bottom of the caliper with the bleeder hose still in the jar. Pumped the master several strokes (refilling with oil can as needed). Closed the bleeder and the brake was rock solid. Caveat. My brake lines, excluding the small flexible sections on either end, are 1/8” OD stainless tubing, and my brake system is on a Tri-Q so shorter lines (maybe 7 feet total length). So moving a bubble through the entire length does not require much volume to be pumped from the master when compared to the plans-built nylaflo tubing on a taildragger.

 

This proves again that for my plane anyway, plan B is always better than plan A.

 

Cheers,

Jay N8WQ

 

From: Q-LIST@... <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2019 8:12 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Brake Bleed Methods

 

 

I have had the most like just going to home depot and buying a little tube that will fit snugly over the bleeder. Run that up a foot or two and then into a cup than crack the bleeder and go. You can bleed by yourself and you see when all of the air is out. Just pump slowly and hold a little bit at the end of each stroke before releasing to let the bubbles rise a little bit in the line. It's by far the simplest way to bleed if you ask me. 

 

I have a pressure bottle for reverse bleeding but for some reason it always seems to en-train tiny bubbles of air in the fluid that coalesces in the break lines. 

 


From: Q-LIST@... <Q-LIST@...> on behalf of Corbin Geiser c_geiser@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2019 9:26 AM
To: Q-LIST@... <Q-LIST@...>
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Brake Bleed Methods

 

 

Thanks Richard.  I think I will try this method again today.  I would love to get a fitting like Jerry and connect to the reservoir to collect overflow.  Maybe I can determine that size today and get it done.

 

Corbin Ge!ser


On August 16, 2019 at 8:16 AM, "fastlittleairplanes@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

We use one of those old timey hand pump oil cans and attach it to the bleeder at the caliper. By back filling the system it only takes one person to do it and will push out any air in the system. If your holding tank is full you will need to pull fluid out so not to make a mess on the back fill. We learned this method after fighting for 2 days to get a dual toe brakes PA28-140 system to work. Does work will all normal GA brake systems do make sure the park brake is not on.

Richard


Alaska

 

Hi,
I heard someone here did a Alaska trip. Is there any way getting the story about that?
Thanks
Mike Neidenthal


Re: Brake Bleed Methods

Jay Scheevel
 

I generally come up with a strategy to do everything as a single person. Comes from 10+ years of living by myself. So here’s my story.

 

Plan A. I put a jar of brake fluid and a clear tube from the bleeder into it, (tube full of fluid), then opened the bleeder. Then I have a little 12 V vacuum pump that I hooked up to the fill fitting in the top of the master cylinder. I thought: air bubbles move easier uphill and vacuum will just make it even better. Guess what? I was wrong. Did not work. Brake never got solid.

 

So….

 

Plan B. Used the little oil can trick and a flexible hose attached to the fill fitting on the top of the master. Opened the bleeder at the bottom of the caliper with the bleeder hose still in the jar. Pumped the master several strokes (refilling with oil can as needed). Closed the bleeder and the brake was rock solid. Caveat. My brake lines, excluding the small flexible sections on either end, are 1/8” OD stainless tubing, and my brake system is on a Tri-Q so shorter lines (maybe 7 feet total length). So moving a bubble through the entire length does not require much volume to be pumped from the master when compared to the plans-built nylaflo tubing on a taildragger.

 

This proves again that for my plane anyway, plan B is always better than plan A.

 

Cheers,

Jay N8WQ

 

From: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2019 8:12 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Brake Bleed Methods

 

 

I have had the most like just going to home depot and buying a little tube that will fit snugly over the bleeder. Run that up a foot or two and then into a cup than crack the bleeder and go. You can bleed by yourself and you see when all of the air is out. Just pump slowly and hold a little bit at the end of each stroke before releasing to let the bubbles rise a little bit in the line. It's by far the simplest way to bleed if you ask me. 

 

I have a pressure bottle for reverse bleeding but for some reason it always seems to en-train tiny bubbles of air in the fluid that coalesces in the break lines. 

 


From: Q-LIST@... <Q-LIST@...> on behalf of Corbin Geiser c_geiser@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2019 9:26 AM
To: Q-LIST@... <Q-LIST@...>
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Brake Bleed Methods

 

 

Thanks Richard.  I think I will try this method again today.  I would love to get a fitting like Jerry and connect to the reservoir to collect overflow.  Maybe I can determine that size today and get it done.

 

Corbin Ge!ser


On August 16, 2019 at 8:16 AM, "fastlittleairplanes@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

We use one of those old timey hand pump oil cans and attach it to the bleeder at the caliper. By back filling the system it only takes one person to do it and will push out any air in the system. If your holding tank is full you will need to pull fluid out so not to make a mess on the back fill. We learned this method after fighting for 2 days to get a dual toe brakes PA28-140 system to work. Does work will all normal GA brake systems do make sure the park brake is not on.

Richard


Re: Brake Bleed Methods

ΕΔΔΥ . <overlordmustafa@...>
 

I'll suggest a method of a 2 person which I use on everything.

Open the bleeder nipple and simply place your finger over the end and have the person pump furiously (make sure you don't run out of fluid).  Your finger acts like a flapper valve preventing any air from sucking back in.  You can move large volumes of brake fluid this way.

An airplane mechanic suggested to me to use a syringe from the caliper portion to remove any stubborn bubbles.

Finally...Is the bleeder nipple on top?  I've worked on brakes to where they were on the bottom (brakes were reversed...but some how still worked)


On Fri, Aug 16, 2019 at 7:11 AM Corbin Geiser c_geiser@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
 

Chasing some air in my brake lines.  I tried a vacuum pump system but I don't think I could get a could seal from the pump itself.  Then I tried pushing fluid using the oil can method; through the upper bleeder valve.  I am going to try that again today but was curious what methods others are using for a "one person" bleed method.

If I have to get a helper to press on the pedals then I will but wanted to figure out a good one person method to use.

Corbin Ge!ser


Re: Brake Bleed Methods

Matthew Curcio
 

I have had the most like just going to home depot and buying a little tube that will fit snugly over the bleeder. Run that up a foot or two and then into a cup than crack the bleeder and go. You can bleed by yourself and you see when all of the air is out. Just pump slowly and hold a little bit at the end of each stroke before releasing to let the bubbles rise a little bit in the line. It's by far the simplest way to bleed if you ask me. 

I have a pressure bottle for reverse bleeding but for some reason it always seems to en-train tiny bubbles of air in the fluid that coalesces in the break lines. 


From: Q-LIST@... on behalf of Corbin Geiser c_geiser@... [Q-LIST]
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2019 9:26 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Brake Bleed Methods
 
 

Thanks Richard.  I think I will try this method again today.  I would love to get a fitting like Jerry and connect to the reservoir to collect overflow.  Maybe I can determine that size today and get it done.

Corbin Ge!ser

On August 16, 2019 at 8:16 AM, "fastlittleairplanes@... [Q-LIST]" wrote:

 

We use one of those old timey hand pump oil cans and attach it to the bleeder at the caliper. By back filling the system it only takes one person to do it and will push out any air in the system. If your holding tank is full you will need to pull fluid out so not to make a mess on the back fill. We learned this method after fighting for 2 days to get a dual toe brakes PA28-140 system to work. Does work will all normal GA brake systems do make sure the park brake is not on.

Richard


Re: Brake Bleed Methods

Mike Dwyer
 

If your brake system uses the red stuff... Use MIL-PRF-83282 Fluid.  It has a higher flashpoint than the normal red stuff.  The automotive red hydraulic fluid flashes into fire at quite a low temp.

On my Q200 it's a bitch to get the last little air out.  I've pumped from the caliper and also from the master.  Seems there is always a bit of air in there.  But weirdly enough after some time, the air goes away.  I don't get it but am not going to worry about why!

I like Sams filler for the master but I use this for pumping from the caliper.

Fly Safe,
Mike N3QP Q200


Re: Brake Bleed Methods

Gary McKirdy
 

For airheart brakes on taildaggers be sure to lift the tail first to get the air bleed hole at 12 o' clock.

Took me lots of frustrating failed attempts before I discovered that.

Gary McKirdy

On Fri, 16 Aug 2019, 14:26 Corbin Geiser c_geiser@... [Q-LIST], <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
 

Thanks Richard.  I think I will try this method again today.  I would love to get a fitting like Jerry and connect to the reservoir to collect overflow.  Maybe I can determine that size today and get it done.

Corbin Ge!ser

On August 16, 2019 at 8:16 AM, "fastlittleairplanes@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

We use one of those old timey hand pump oil cans and attach it to the bleeder at the caliper. By back filling the system it only takes one person to do it and will push out any air in the system. If your holding tank is full you will need to pull fluid out so not to make a mess on the back fill. We learned this method after fighting for 2 days to get a dual toe brakes PA28-140 system to work. Does work will all normal GA brake systems do make sure the park brake is not on.

Richard


Re: Brake Bleed Methods

Jerry Marstall <jnmarstall@...>
 

Corbin,
To make the fitting I just drilled a small hole in the screw that came with the master cylinder and epoxied a 1/2" of aluminum tubing to it to slide the plastic tubing over. Jerry

-------- Original message --------
From: "Corbin Geiser c_geiser@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...>
Date: 8/16/19 9:26 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Brake Bleed Methods

 

Thanks Richard.  I think I will try this method again today.  I would love to get a fitting like Jerry and connect to the reservoir to collect overflow.  Maybe I can determine that size today and get it done.

Corbin Ge!ser

On August 16, 2019 at 8:16 AM, "fastlittleairplanes@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

We use one of those old timey hand pump oil cans and attach it to the bleeder at the caliper. By back filling the system it only takes one person to do it and will push out any air in the system. If your holding tank is full you will need to pull fluid out so not to make a mess on the back fill. We learned this method after fighting for 2 days to get a dual toe brakes PA28-140 system to work. Does work will all normal GA brake systems do make sure the park brake is not on.

Richard


Re: Brake Bleed Methods

Corbin Geiser <c_geiser@...>
 

Thanks Richard.  I think I will try this method again today.  I would love to get a fitting like Jerry and connect to the reservoir to collect overflow.  Maybe I can determine that size today and get it done.

Corbin Ge!ser

On August 16, 2019 at 8:16 AM, "fastlittleairplanes@... [Q-LIST]" wrote:

 

We use one of those old timey hand pump oil cans and attach it to the bleeder at the caliper. By back filling the system it only takes one person to do it and will push out any air in the system. If your holding tank is full you will need to pull fluid out so not to make a mess on the back fill. We learned this method after fighting for 2 days to get a dual toe brakes PA28-140 system to work. Does work will all normal GA brake systems do make sure the park brake is not on.

Richard


Re: Brake Bleed Methods

Richard Kaczmarek 3RD
 

We use one of those old timey hand pump oil cans and attach it to the bleeder at the caliper. By back filling the system it only takes one person to do it and will push out any air in the system. If your holding tank is full you will need to pull fluid out so not to make a mess on the back fill. We learned this method after fighting for 2 days to get a dual toe brakes PA28-140 system to work. Does work will all normal GA brake systems do make sure the park brake is not on.

Richard


Re: Brake Bleed Methods

Sam Hoskins
 

I usually use a helper to pull on the brake while I man the bleed fitting. 

Also, a bottle like this makes filling a lot easier.
ACM Economy Wash Bottle, LDPE, Squeeze Bottle Medical Label Tattoo (250ml / 8oz / 1 Bottle) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTHLR18/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_tpQvDbVDWJ4SA

On Fri, Aug 16, 2019, 7:32 AM 'Jerry Marstall' jnmarstall@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
 

I have Matco breaks and have a terrible time bleeding them.  Since the bleed port fitting at the caliper is not directly below where the brake line attaches, there is an air pocket that sometimes forms.  I have to remove the caliper unit from the wheel,  letting it hang by the brake line. I vertically align the bleed port with the brake line attachment. This allows the air bubble to exit out of the top of the caliper housing.  Then pump the fluid in from the bottom with an oil can.

 

In the cockpit I made a fitting that screws into the vent hole at the top of the master cylinder and attached a clear plastic tube that runs into an empty water bottle to catch the fluid as it runs over the top.  This allows me to watch the fluid as it comes out of the master cylinder to detect the exiting air bubbles.  A one-person operation that works every time.

Jerry

 

From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2019 8:12 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Brake Bleed Methods

 

 

Chasing some air in my brake lines.  I tried a vacuum pump system but I don't think I could get a could seal from the pump itself.  Then I tried pushing fluid using the oil can method; through the upper bleeder valve.  I am going to try that again today but was curious what methods others are using for a "one person" bleed method.

 

If I have to get a helper to press on the pedals then I will but wanted to figure out a good one person method to use.

 

Corbin Ge!ser


Re: Brake Bleed Methods

Jerry Marstall <jnmarstall@...>
 

I have Matco breaks and have a terrible time bleeding them.  Since the bleed port fitting at the caliper is not directly below where the brake line attaches, there is an air pocket that sometimes forms.  I have to remove the caliper unit from the wheel,  letting it hang by the brake line. I vertically align the bleed port with the brake line attachment. This allows the air bubble to exit out of the top of the caliper housing.  Then pump the fluid in from the bottom with an oil can.

 

In the cockpit I made a fitting that screws into the vent hole at the top of the master cylinder and attached a clear plastic tube that runs into an empty water bottle to catch the fluid as it runs over the top.  This allows me to watch the fluid as it comes out of the master cylinder to detect the exiting air bubbles.  A one-person operation that works every time.

Jerry

 

From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2019 8:12 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Brake Bleed Methods

 

 

Chasing some air in my brake lines.  I tried a vacuum pump system but I don't think I could get a could seal from the pump itself.  Then I tried pushing fluid using the oil can method; through the upper bleeder valve.  I am going to try that again today but was curious what methods others are using for a "one person" bleed method.

 

If I have to get a helper to press on the pedals then I will but wanted to figure out a good one person method to use.

 

Corbin Ge!ser


Brake Bleed Methods

Corbin Geiser <c_geiser@...>
 

Chasing some air in my brake lines.  I tried a vacuum pump system but I don't think I could get a could seal from the pump itself.  Then I tried pushing fluid using the oil can method; through the upper bleeder valve.  I am going to try that again today but was curious what methods others are using for a "one person" bleed method.

If I have to get a helper to press on the pedals then I will but wanted to figure out a good one person method to use.

Corbin Ge!ser


Re: Firewall Material

Terry Crouch
 

My Quickie and Cozy both have fiberfax and stainless. Use aluminum for a template.

Terry Crouch


-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Curcio mlcurcio89@... [Q-LIST]
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tue, Aug 13, 2019 12:02 pm
Subject: [Q-LIST] Firewall Material

 
Curious what you all have done for a firewall. My Q2 had some kind of fireproof fabric bonded to the firewall with no aluminum sheeting or anything over that. There was originally paint but that has long since flaked off. The net result is a sheet of fireproof fabric coated in oil. I yanked it all off and did a test burn on a piece. Just as I suspected the  fibers didn't burn but acted as a fantastic wick for all of the oil which burned nicely and would have sustained a nice hot flame long enough to get the wood on the firewall burning. That stuff is bad news if you ask me. 

I'm doing a  bunch of engine work so time to replace. My plan was to use a sheet of .016" SS and spend the time to make templates and shape it in and around the mag box. I like the idea of stainless because I don't want any insulating material that can get oil soaked over time. The SS is, practically speaking, the most effective firewall material and will insulate to some degree against heat rather than conduct like aluminum will. It does come at a cost of weight. Thoughts? What have you done?


Re: Firewall Material

Dave Dugas
 

Matthew

I used fiberfax which was the name of the material supplied in the original kit. It was very delicate to work with and the plans called for aluminum sheet to protect it.

Dave D

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Matthew Curcio mlcurcio89@... [Q-LIST]
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 1:02 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Firewall Material

 

 

Curious what you all have done for a firewall. My Q2 had some kind of fireproof fabric bonded to the firewall with no aluminum sheeting or anything over that. There was originally paint but that has long since flaked off. The net result is a sheet of fireproof fabric coated in oil. I yanked it all off and did a test burn on a piece. Just as I suspected the  fibers didn't burn but acted as a fantastic wick for all of the oil which burned nicely and would have sustained a nice hot flame long enough to get the wood on the firewall burning. That stuff is bad news if you ask me. 

 

I'm doing a  bunch of engine work so time to replace. My plan was to use a sheet of .016" SS and spend the time to make templates and shape it in and around the mag box. I like the idea of stainless because I don't want any insulating material that can get oil soaked over time. The SS is, practically speaking, the most effective firewall material and will insulate to some degree against heat rather than conduct like aluminum will. It does come at a cost of weight. Thoughts? What have you done?

 


Re: Firewall Material

Bruce Crain
 


Re: Firewall Material

Jay Scheevel
 

There is a fireproof, water based glue that is for sale on Spruce. This is what I used to attach the fiber to the firewall. I also used that: Here is the link.

 

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/cs/adhesives_fiberfrax/fiberfraxadhesive.php

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 12:12 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Firewall Material

 

 

I have a thin sheet of stainless over fiber fax. It seems the fiber fax had some sort of a special glue to hold it in place.. I don't remember what it was, maybe Liquid Firewall?  In the mag box recess I just used the fiber fax with its glue, and then I used some sort of a silver paint over that, to keep oil from migrating in.

 

It was 25 or 30 years ago, so I'm a little fuzzy on the details.

 

Sam

 

On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 12:02 PM Matthew Curcio mlcurcio89@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

Curious what you all have done for a firewall. My Q2 had some kind of fireproof fabric bonded to the firewall with no aluminum sheeting or anything over that. There was originally paint but that has long since flaked off. The net result is a sheet of fireproof fabric coated in oil. I yanked it all off and did a test burn on a piece. Just as I suspected the  fibers didn't burn but acted as a fantastic wick for all of the oil which burned nicely and would have sustained a nice hot flame long enough to get the wood on the firewall burning. That stuff is bad news if you ask me. 

 

I'm doing a  bunch of engine work so time to replace. My plan was to use a sheet of .016" SS and spend the time to make templates and shape it in and around the mag box. I like the idea of stainless because I don't want any insulating material that can get oil soaked over time. The SS is, practically speaking, the most effective firewall material and will insulate to some degree against heat rather than conduct like aluminum will. It does come at a cost of weight. Thoughts? What have you done?


Re: Firewall Material

Sam Hoskins
 

I have a thin sheet of stainless over fiber fax. It seems the fiber fax had some sort of a special glue to hold it in place. I don't remember what it was, maybe Liquid Firewall?  In the mag box recess I just used the fiber fax with its glue, and then I used some sort of a silver paint over that, to keep oil from migrating in.

It was 25 or 30 years ago, so I'm a little fuzzy on the details.

Sam

On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 12:02 PM Matthew Curcio mlcurcio89@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
 

Curious what you all have done for a firewall. My Q2 had some kind of fireproof fabric bonded to the firewall with no aluminum sheeting or anything over that. There was originally paint but that has long since flaked off. The net result is a sheet of fireproof fabric coated in oil. I yanked it all off and did a test burn on a piece. Just as I suspected the  fibers didn't burn but acted as a fantastic wick for all of the oil which burned nicely and would have sustained a nice hot flame long enough to get the wood on the firewall burning. That stuff is bad news if you ask me. 

I'm doing a  bunch of engine work so time to replace. My plan was to use a sheet of .016" SS and spend the time to make templates and shape it in and around the mag box. I like the idea of stainless because I don't want any insulating material that can get oil soaked over time. The SS is, practically speaking, the most effective firewall material and will insulate to some degree against heat rather than conduct like aluminum will. It does come at a cost of weight. Thoughts? What have you done?


Re: Firewall Material

Jerry Marstall <jnmarstall@...>
 

I did precisely as you described. Satisfied. Fortunately, never been tested.  jerry

-------- Original message --------
From: "Matthew Curcio mlcurcio89@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...>
Date: 8/13/19 12:24 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Firewall Material

 

Curious what you all have done for a firewall. My Q2 had some kind of fireproof fabric bonded to the firewall with no aluminum sheeting or anything over that. There was originally paint but that has long since flaked off. The net result is a sheet of fireproof fabric coated in oil. I yanked it all off and did a test burn on a piece. Just as I suspected the  fibers didn't burn but acted as a fantastic wick for all of the oil which burned nicely and would have sustained a nice hot flame long enough to get the wood on the firewall burning. That stuff is bad news if you ask me. 

I'm doing a  bunch of engine work so time to replace. My plan was to use a sheet of .016" SS and spend the time to make templates and shape it in and around the mag box. I like the idea of stainless because I don't want any insulating material that can get oil soaked over time. The SS is, practically speaking, the most effective firewall material and will insulate to some degree against heat rather than conduct like aluminum will. It does come at a cost of weight. Thoughts? What have you done?


Re: Firewall Material

Jay Scheevel
 

Hi Matthew,

 

I have done similar to what you are thinking (with ss), but put a piece of fiberfrax between the ss and the fiberglass firewall. Fiberfrax is the best insulator, in addition to the point you make about ss being relatively non-conductive, but once ss does heat up, it stays hot a long time. If you are careful in the installation of the firewall, no oil will get under the stainless. I do not have a mag box, but I do have a similar structure to allow the alternator to protrude back into the firewall. I wanted a similar protection in there, but ss was not going to work with the complex shape, so I shaped aluminum and put the fiberfrax under that. I am including a picture.

 

One thing that saved me a lot of time, was to make a paper template of the firewall (photo attached), then load that template at true scale into my CAD program. I took a DXF file of that to the local metal shop that has a waterjet cutter. Then they cut the stainless to exactly the right dimension, with ports and holes where my various hardware attached. SS is relatively hard and the waterjet does a much better job of cutting than most methods.

 

Cheers,

Jay N8WQ

 

From: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 10:24 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Firewall Material

 

 

Curious what you all have done for a firewall. My Q2 had some kind of fireproof fabric bonded to the firewall with no aluminum sheeting or anything over that. There was originally paint but that has long since flaked off. The net result is a sheet of fireproof fabric coated in oil. I yanked it all off and did a test burn on a piece. Just as I suspected the  fibers didn't burn but acted as a fantastic wick for all of the oil which burned nicely and would have sustained a nice hot flame long enough to get the wood on the firewall burning. That stuff is bad news if you ask me. 

 

I'm doing a  bunch of engine work so time to replace. My plan was to use a sheet of .016" SS and spend the time to make templates and shape it in and around the mag box. I like the idea of stainless because I don't want any insulating material that can get oil soaked over time. The SS is, practically speaking, the most effective firewall material and will insulate to some degree against heat rather than conduct like aluminum will. It does come at a cost of weight. Thoughts? What have you done?

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