Date   

Re: Cutting control cable

Jay Scheevel
 

Sounds like the way to go, John. I would take Charlie’s advice.

 

For those who don’t know Charlie is One Sky Dog. I hope I haven’t blown your “witness protection program” cover, Charlie!

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of One Sky Dog via groups.io
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 9:29 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Cutting control cable

 

With all the analysis and getting out the chainsaw equivalent die grinder and pumping up the compressor.

 

As I used to tell my students power tools are not always faster or better.

 

With the cable in the spiral determine length. Remove plastic coating if present. With pliers kink the spiral to open up a coil where you want to cut it. File diagonally with the corner of a file to cut half way thru then use pliers to bend back and forth to break at the file cut. Controlled operation no chance of damage to inner cable no slip of the die grinder.

 

You are the mechanic in charge, 40 years of manufacturing and maintenance. 
Cut many cables.

 

One Sky Dog

 



On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:39 PM, John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns@...> wrote:

It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years. 

 

On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io

<britmcman@...> wrote:

If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables.  Phil 



On Jan 3, 2021, at 4:54 AM, Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:



Wrap it with masking tape.  Use a die grinder with cutting blade.  You'll use the die grinder for lots of things.

Fly safe.

Mike

 

On Sat, Jan 2, 2021, 9:31 PM John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands? 


Re: Cutting control cable

One Sky Dog
 

With all the analysis and getting out the chainsaw equivalent die grinder and pumping up the compressor.

As I used to tell my students power tools are not always faster or better.

With the cable in the spiral determine length. Remove plastic coating if present. With pliers kink the spiral to open up a coil where you want to cut it. File diagonally with the corner of a file to cut half way thru then use pliers to bend back and forth to break at the file cut. Controlled operation no chance of damage to inner cable no slip of the die grinder.

You are the mechanic in charge, 40 years of manufacturing and maintenance. 
Cut many cables.

One Sky Dog

On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:39 PM, John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns@...> wrote:

It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years. 


On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io
<britmcman@...> wrote:
If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables.  Phil 


On Jan 3, 2021, at 4:54 AM, Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:


Wrap it with masking tape.  Use a die grinder with cutting blade.  You'll use the die grinder for lots of things.
Fly safe.
Mike

On Sat, Jan 2, 2021, 9:31 PM John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands? 


Re: New Years Day Flight Report

John Hoxie
 

Great videos Jay. Most often I read Q-List email on my phone and intend to watch on my big screen later. With 40-50 emails per day, out of sight, out of mind. But this time I starred your email so I could find it easily later.

 
John Hoxie
He is no fool, who gives up what he can not keep, to gain what he can not loose -- Jim Elliot


On Friday, January 1, 2021, 09:14:11 PM MST, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:


Hi Mike,

Thanks. Happy New Year! I put that hot air duct in from the start of my building the cockpit but have not needed it yet. I live in a pretty dry climate, so not that unexpected but I figure when/if I do need it sometime I will be happy to have it. 

Cheers,
Jay




On Jan 1, 2021, at 8:12 PM, Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:


Great report Jay.  Really sharp videos too.  Have you ever had the canopy fog or freeze over.  I saw you had some kind of canopy heater.  It was way too windy here for fun flying.  Well done.
Mike

On Fri, Jan 1, 2021, 8:23 PM Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:

Well, I finally have been able to take advantage of good weather on New Years Day and get a flight in. What a nice flight it was. Dead calm on the ground and very smooth in the air. A few degrees below freezing on take off in the early afternoon. We had some snow earlier in the week, so there was lots of snow around my airport, but taxiways and runway were clear and dry for nice takeoff and landing. When I first took off, I headed south to go over the Interstate (70), then over the Colorado river. It was a very nice view with the snow combined with the pink sandstone cliffs along the river. I made a partial turn with rudder only, holding my camera phone and taking short video while looking out the right side of the plane. I was surprised when I looked back at the ball and it seemed to be pretty coordinated using just rudder. Maybe I will try this more often. I then turned SE and followed the Colorado river, to the Junction of the Gunnison then along the Gunnison river canyon to about 40 miles southeast of Grand Junction and took another short video out the left side of the plane. The distant peaks are the West Elk mountains near Crested Butte and the large dark mountain is the Grand Mesa southeast of Grand Junction, which is a very scenic, flat topped mountain at 10,500’  I loaded the two short videos to YouTube. Hope you enjoy the flight as much as I did.

 

Cheers,

Jay Scheevel, Quickie Tri-Q2 N8WQ, 126 hours.

 

https://youtu.be/pxZejWwnXdU

https://youtu.be/dVV1EtykKIE

 


Re: Your Opinion

Richard Thomson
 

It wasn't on my 0200, it was a club Cherokee with a Lycoming, but it taught me a lesson that sticks in the mind for the future reference. :-Br

Br

RichT

On 04/01/2021 10:47, Bill Allen wrote:
Hi Rich - what engine do you have?  If it rich-cuts at idle, it should be possible to alter the setup so that it doesn’t....

Bill

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 11:35, Richard Thomson <richard@...> wrote:

 Thanks Bill, that is some interesting information to consider.

    The reason I select carb heat cold on late final is not damage to the engine but Rich Cut, and even then that is not a problem if you are landing, but on T&G's and on short fields can be a decider if you end up in the hedge ( or at Henstridge in the fence or girders), so I my norm is Carb Heat Cold on late final and a gentle cycle of the throttle to check its still there.

    Br

    RichT.


On 04/01/2021 08:13, Bill Allen wrote:

Hi Kieth,

You wrote: <<  I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist. >>r

Joel Ventura did quite a detailed article on Prist etc here: 


Bill

Note: Prist wont stop carb ice, which comes out of the atmosphere. Prist deals with water already in suspension within the fuel. 

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 03:58, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
Hi again,
All your comments, experiences and knowledge no doubt turned out to be a real education.  I don’t know about y’all but icing is normally not a discussion item.  I’m glad I took the chance to post the article.  Learned more than I thought I would.  And thank you all for “Your Opinions”
 
I must admit I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist.  I did actually use it in the Quickie for a time.  Reckon it did ok..that was several years ago.  My Q does not have carb heat nor does the carb have access to outside air, only hot air off the engine and is why the interest in the Teflon coating.  The carb on the newer Onan sets higher so to accommodate a new heat box I would need to make a new cowl bump....like that was gonna happen!  Not surprised no one had much to say about it.  
 
Like Jay I’m sure ice will form Teflon or not but I’ve never used a Teflon coated anything that anything would stick to it.  I once froze water in both a steel pan and a Teflon one.  Guess which one the ice slid out of.  The steel pan had ice remnants sticking to it after most was chipped out.  Yeah, pretty unscientific but....  Think about your plastic ice server bucket when guest come over, the ice sticks to everything even fingers.  At least modern technology has provided us with some options.

Thanks again,
Keith

Please note: message attached

From: "Mike Dwyer " <q200pilot@...>
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 17:00:40 -0500



--
--


Re: Q-Tour Corbin Geiser Q-200 - This Saturday January 9, 9:00 #Q-Tour

Corbin <c_geiser@...>
 

Thanks Sam and Brian.  I don't have anywhere near the knowledge all of you have but I can at least show and tell what I know.  See ya Saturday 9am CST.

--

Corbin 
N33QR


Re: Your Opinion

Bill Allen
 

Hi Rich - what engine do you have?  If it rich-cuts at idle, it should be possible to alter the setup so that it doesn’t....

Bill

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 11:35, Richard Thomson <richard@...> wrote:

 Thanks Bill, that is some interesting information to consider.

    The reason I select carb heat cold on late final is not damage to the engine but Rich Cut, and even then that is not a problem if you are landing, but on T&G's and on short fields can be a decider if you end up in the hedge ( or at Henstridge in the fence or girders), so I my norm is Carb Heat Cold on late final and a gentle cycle of the throttle to check its still there.

    Br

    RichT.


On 04/01/2021 08:13, Bill Allen wrote:

Hi Kieth,

You wrote: <<  I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist. >>r

Joel Ventura did quite a detailed article on Prist etc here: 


Bill

Note: Prist wont stop carb ice, which comes out of the atmosphere. Prist deals with water already in suspension within the fuel. 

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 03:58, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
Hi again,
All your comments, experiences and knowledge no doubt turned out to be a real education.  I don’t know about y’all but icing is normally not a discussion item.  I’m glad I took the chance to post the article.  Learned more than I thought I would.  And thank you all for “Your Opinions”
 
I must admit I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist.  I did actually use it in the Quickie for a time.  Reckon it did ok..that was several years ago.  My Q does not have carb heat nor does the carb have access to outside air, only hot air off the engine and is why the interest in the Teflon coating.  The carb on the newer Onan sets higher so to accommodate a new heat box I would need to make a new cowl bump....like that was gonna happen!  Not surprised no one had much to say about it.  
 
Like Jay I’m sure ice will form Teflon or not but I’ve never used a Teflon coated anything that anything would stick to it.  I once froze water in both a steel pan and a Teflon one.  Guess which one the ice slid out of.  The steel pan had ice remnants sticking to it after most was chipped out.  Yeah, pretty unscientific but....  Think about your plastic ice server bucket when guest come over, the ice sticks to everything even fingers.  At least modern technology has provided us with some options.

Thanks again,
Keith

Please note: message attached

From: "Mike Dwyer " <q200pilot@...>
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 17:00:40 -0500



--

--


Re: Your Opinion

Richard Thomson
 

 Thanks Bill, that is some interesting information to consider.

    The reason I select carb heat cold on late final is not damage to the engine but Rich Cut, and even then that is not a problem if you are landing, but on T&G's and on short fields can be a decider if you end up in the hedge ( or at Henstridge in the fence or girders), so I my norm is Carb Heat Cold on late final and a gentle cycle of the throttle to check its still there.

    Br

    RichT.


On 04/01/2021 08:13, Bill Allen wrote:

Hi Kieth,

You wrote: <<  I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist. >>r

Joel Ventura did quite a detailed article on Prist etc here: 


Bill

Note: Prist wont stop carb ice, which comes out of the atmosphere. Prist deals with water already in suspension within the fuel. 

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 03:58, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
Hi again,
All your comments, experiences and knowledge no doubt turned out to be a real education.  I don’t know about y’all but icing is normally not a discussion item.  I’m glad I took the chance to post the article.  Learned more than I thought I would.  And thank you all for “Your Opinions”
 
I must admit I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist.  I did actually use it in the Quickie for a time.  Reckon it did ok..that was several years ago.  My Q does not have carb heat nor does the carb have access to outside air, only hot air off the engine and is why the interest in the Teflon coating.  The carb on the newer Onan sets higher so to accommodate a new heat box I would need to make a new cowl bump....like that was gonna happen!  Not surprised no one had much to say about it.  
 
Like Jay I’m sure ice will form Teflon or not but I’ve never used a Teflon coated anything that anything would stick to it.  I once froze water in both a steel pan and a Teflon one.  Guess which one the ice slid out of.  The steel pan had ice remnants sticking to it after most was chipped out.  Yeah, pretty unscientific but....  Think about your plastic ice server bucket when guest come over, the ice sticks to everything even fingers.  At least modern technology has provided us with some options.

Thanks again,
Keith

Please note: message attached

From: "Mike Dwyer " <q200pilot@...>
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 17:00:40 -0500



--


Re: Your Opinion

Bill Allen
 

Hi Kieth,

You wrote: <<  I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist. >>

Joel Ventura did quite a detailed article on Prist etc here: 


Bill

Note: Prist wont stop carb ice, which comes out of the atmosphere. Prist deals with water already in suspension within the fuel. 

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 03:58, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
Hi again,
All your comments, experiences and knowledge no doubt turned out to be a real education.  I don’t know about y’all but icing is normally not a discussion item.  I’m glad I took the chance to post the article.  Learned more than I thought I would.  And thank you all for “Your Opinions”
 
I must admit I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist.  I did actually use it in the Quickie for a time.  Reckon it did ok..that was several years ago.  My Q does not have carb heat nor does the carb have access to outside air, only hot air off the engine and is why the interest in the Teflon coating.  The carb on the newer Onan sets higher so to accommodate a new heat box I would need to make a new cowl bump....like that was gonna happen!  Not surprised no one had much to say about it.  
 
Like Jay I’m sure ice will form Teflon or not but I’ve never used a Teflon coated anything that anything would stick to it.  I once froze water in both a steel pan and a Teflon one.  Guess which one the ice slid out of.  The steel pan had ice remnants sticking to it after most was chipped out.  Yeah, pretty unscientific but....  Think about your plastic ice server bucket when guest come over, the ice sticks to everything even fingers.  At least modern technology has provided us with some options.

Thanks again,
Keith

Please note: message attached

From: "Mike Dwyer " <q200pilot@...>
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 17:00:40 -0500



--


Re: Your Opinion

 

Hi again,
All your comments, experiences and knowledge no doubt turned out to be a real education.  I don’t know about y’all but icing is normally not a discussion item.  I’m glad I took the chance to post the article.  Learned more than I thought I would.  And thank you all for “Your Opinions”
 
I must admit I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist.  I did actually use it in the Quickie for a time.  Reckon it did ok..that was several years ago.  My Q does not have carb heat nor does the carb have access to outside air, only hot air off the engine and is why the interest in the Teflon coating.  The carb on the newer Onan sets higher so to accommodate a new heat box I would need to make a new cowl bump....like that was gonna happen!  Not surprised no one had much to say about it.  
 
Like Jay I’m sure ice will form Teflon or not but I’ve never used a Teflon coated anything that anything would stick to it.  I once froze water in both a steel pan and a Teflon one.  Guess which one the ice slid out of.  The steel pan had ice remnants sticking to it after most was chipped out.  Yeah, pretty unscientific but....  Think about your plastic ice server bucket when guest come over, the ice sticks to everything even fingers.  At least modern technology has provided us with some options.

Thanks again,
Keith

Please note: message attached

From: "Mike Dwyer " <q200pilot@...>
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 17:00:40 -0500




Re: Cutting control cable

John Hoxie
 

It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years. 


On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io
<britmcman@...> wrote:
If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables.  Phil 


On Jan 3, 2021, at 4:54 AM, Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:


Wrap it with masking tape.  Use a die grinder with cutting blade.  You'll use the die grinder for lots of things.
Fly safe.
Mike

On Sat, Jan 2, 2021, 9:31 PM John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands? 


Re: Q-Tour Corbin Geiser Q-200 - This Saturday January 9, 9:00 #Q-Tour

Brian Larick
 

No pressure Corbin!  Can’t wait.

Brian

On Jan 3, 2021, at 19:57, Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins@...> wrote:


Corbin purchased a beautiful Q-200, and like most of us, he can't leave well enough alone.  Join us and see this great plane and the mods that Corbin has installed and has planned.

As usual, the session will be broken into two parts.

Sam Hoskins is inviting you to a scheduled Zoom meeting.
Topic: Corbin Geiser Q-200 Q-Tour
Time: Jan 9, 2021 09:00 AM Central Time (US and Canada)
 
Join Zoom Meeting
https://us04web.zoom.us/j/73400227546?pwd=NGRSVWgyeEc0VHVXQ2NJU1ZnRmdQdz09
 
Meeting ID: 734 0022 7546
Passcode: xvuz45

<Corbin and rescue dog.jpg>


Q-Tour Corbin Geiser Q-200 - This Saturday January 9, 9:00 #Q-Tour

Sam Hoskins
 

Corbin purchased a beautiful Q-200, and like most of us, he can't leave well enough alone.  Join us and see this great plane and the mods that Corbin has installed and has planned.

As usual, the session will be broken into two parts.

Sam Hoskins is inviting you to a scheduled Zoom meeting.
Topic: Corbin Geiser Q-200 Q-Tour
Time: Jan 9, 2021 09:00 AM Central Time (US and Canada)
 
Join Zoom Meeting
https://us04web.zoom.us/j/73400227546?pwd=NGRSVWgyeEc0VHVXQ2NJU1ZnRmdQdz09
 
Meeting ID: 734 0022 7546
Passcode: xvuz45


Re: X

Earnest Martin <MartinErni@...>
 

Arden is in the suburbs of Asheville

Earnest Martin
40 Glen Cove Drive
Arden NC 28704-3219
828-230-5378
martinerni@...

On Jan 3, 2021, at 10:37 AM, Bruce Crain <jcrain2@...> wrote:

You moved from Asheville?!
Bruce Crain
On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:03 AM, Earnest Martin via groups.io <MartinErni@...> wrote:



Earnest Martin
40 Glen Cove Drive
Arden NC 28704-3219
828-230-5378
martinerni@...






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Re: Sunshine

Jerry Marstall <jnmarstall@...>
 

You know how much I wish I was there to help.

-------- Original message --------
From: Paul Fisher <rv7a.n18pf@...>
Date: 1/3/21 5:13 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Sunshine

I just got home.  While I was gone it looks like we got 8-10 inches of snow followed by about 1/4 inch of ice and then the whole thing froze solid.  I just spent an hour on the driveway and it isn't anywhere near done yet.  I can't imagine what the hangar looks like!  I suspect my first flight of the year won't be for a few weeks!!  January in Iowa is not known for a lot of melting days...

Paul Fisher
Q-200, N17PF

On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 9:34 AM Bruce Crain <jcrain2@...> wrote:
I would say move to Oklahoma but we just had a snow storm move through.  Hope the banana crop is ok!
Bruce


On Jan 2, 2021, at 9:06 PM, Kevin Boddicker <trumanst@...> wrote:

Caian't See!!!

On Jan 2, 2021, at 7:50 PM, Jerry Marstall <jnmarstall@...> wrote:

So, what's the problem?

-------- Original message --------
From: Kevin Boddicker <trumanst@...>
Date: 1/2/21 5:33 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Q List <Q-List@groups.io>
Subject: [Q-List] Sunshine

THIS is 31°F and sunshine. 
Well at least that is what they forecast.
Good news is tomorrow is supposed to be as beautiful as today.

It’ll get better, someday.

If you got um, fly um!!!!



<IMG_2857.jpeg>

Kevin Boddicker
TriQ 200 N7868B   548 hrs
Luana, IA.







Re: Sunshine

Paul Fisher
 

I just got home.  While I was gone it looks like we got 8-10 inches of snow followed by about 1/4 inch of ice and then the whole thing froze solid.  I just spent an hour on the driveway and it isn't anywhere near done yet.  I can't imagine what the hangar looks like!  I suspect my first flight of the year won't be for a few weeks!!  January in Iowa is not known for a lot of melting days...

Paul Fisher
Q-200, N17PF


On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 9:34 AM Bruce Crain <jcrain2@...> wrote:
I would say move to Oklahoma but we just had a snow storm move through.  Hope the banana crop is ok!
Bruce


On Jan 2, 2021, at 9:06 PM, Kevin Boddicker <trumanst@...> wrote:

Caian't See!!!

On Jan 2, 2021, at 7:50 PM, Jerry Marstall <jnmarstall@...> wrote:

So, what's the problem?

-------- Original message --------
From: Kevin Boddicker <trumanst@...>
Date: 1/2/21 5:33 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Q List <Q-List@groups.io>
Subject: [Q-List] Sunshine

THIS is 31°F and sunshine. 
Well at least that is what they forecast.
Good news is tomorrow is supposed to be as beautiful as today.

It’ll get better, someday.

If you got um, fly um!!!!



<IMG_2857.jpeg>

Kevin Boddicker
TriQ 200 N7868B   548 hrs
Luana, IA.







Re: Your Opinion

Mike Dwyer
 

So I fly at 27C alot and it's 80% humidity much of the time.  That's a 20C dew point.
On the graph, I'm in the "Serious Icing" virtually all the time!
Am I the only Q pilot with a humidity gauge on my panel?

Mike Dwyer


On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 4:44 PM Bill Allen <billallensworld@...> wrote:
Updraft, downdraft, - it doesn’t matter. What matters is the relative humidity and air temperature, combined with the carburettors venturi effect and the LHE of the fuel, as below;


On Sun, 3 Jan 2021 at 22:23, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:

Good points, Bill. I wonder if the EZ’s are not more prone to icing due to the updraft cooling, which puts the coolest air in the bottom half of the cowl?  Your thoughts?

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bill Allen
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 12:15 PM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion

 

“Carb” Ice on any engine using petroleum spirit with a Venturi metering device is a silent killer which doesn’t get the attention it deserves. 

Most folk don't ever test to see if their “carb heat” system meets the requirements of FAR 23.1093 (90f rise in intake aIr temp 65% at OAT of 30f)

If the engine quits because of carb ice, you’re going down, - and what’s more, the evidence of the cause of the failure will have melted away by the time any accident investigator gets there.

I’ve lost count of the numbers of people that have crashed due to carb ice/inadequate heat/unused carb heat, and believe that it’s the most dangerous thing on a Continental 0-200/0-240 which are otherwise a great engines.

I have a wrecked LongEz in my shop now (Continental 0-240) which was caused by a poor carb heat system, 

 See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/236048

 

A friend wrecked his LongEz, and was badly injured, due to not fully using carb heat;

See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/213001

 

Another friend had icing induced engine failure , and found a big tree in the field fate selected for him, which killed him; https://www.irishtimes.com/news/ireland/irish-news/aircraft-crashed-after-engine-cut-out-due-to-ice-inquest-hears-1.3407962

 

If you can't afford fuel injection, get carb heat muffs on headers both sides and make sure you get the heat rises called for in the FARs - it’s one of those regs that's “written in blood”.  And don't be shy about using heat all the way down to touchdown, and warming the engine every 500ft - those pipes don't have much thermal mass and quickly lose the ability to heat the air adequately.

 

Another thing I’ve noticed about fixed wing pilots is that many apply carb heat as if they were doing harm to the engine, and thus dont seem to like leaving it on.

While it’s true that max power is with cold air, you only need that on a climb out.

 So I’m puzzled when a pilot selects carb heat on the downwind, then turns it off on finals, just when going through the most vulnerable phase of the approach. 

If you believe that carb heat harms the engine in some way, keep in mind that all Robinson R22 helicopters (Lycoming 0-320/360) run with carb heat on all the time (unless you live in the desert of course...)

 

Fly safe, and land with heat :^)

 

Bill Allen

 

 

 

On Sun, 3 Jan 2021 at 19:13, Corbin via groups.io <c_geiser=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:

Agreed...love not worrying about carb ice!

Corbin



On Jan 3, 2021, at 11:09 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:



Martin,

 

Where did your Tri-Q end up?

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Martin Skiby
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 9:39 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion

 

I had it once very bad just as I was about to head over the mountains.  It was in the TriQ200.  70 degree day also.  Tried everything else first as I really did not expect the issue to be ice.  I turned back toward the valley and pulled the carb heat.  The engine sputtered for a bit then roared back to life.  

 

I had a cold air ram system into the carb for max performance.   The 0200 is famous for carb ice so I recommend NEVER flying without a working  carb heat!  Unless you have fuel injection like Corbin!!

 

Fly safe!

 

Martin

 

 

 

 

On Jan 2, 2021, at 7:54 AM, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:



Hello everyone,

I hope y'all had a great bringing in of the new year. 

 

I've attached an article I read about once every five years or so regarding carb icing. 

We all know about carb ice and the danger it poses.  I experienced it years ago in my then Aeronca Chief when, in the summer, the engine stopped producing power on final.  At least it would not throttle up when flaring to land and stopped on touchdown.  After setting a bit she started just fine...by hand propping of course. 

 

The highlighted area toward the end of the article gets my curiosity up and is what I would like your opinions on since many of you are much smarter than I.

The reason for asking is that somewhere in the 90's I had the throttle shaft, throttle plate and intake manifold teflon coated on my Quickie and this article is where it all started.

 

One hot humid day back then while looking down the carburetor with the engine running I was surprised at the amount of water that was forming on the throttle plate, the size of the droplets and the time it took for them to run off.  Onan carbs are on the top of the engine as most know.

I found a company in Indy that did industrial teflon coating, Keco Coatings, and they are still there and this is their website https://www.kecocoatings.com/coatings/teflon/

After the Teflon coating was done the water still formed but with a notable difference.  The droplets were miniature sized and it was like a contest to see who could run off the throttle plate first.  Very impressive.

 

I've never sought the opinion of others regarding this article but knowing the breath of knowledge among you Q guys I thought I'd reach out and see.

 

Thanks for taking the time.

Keith

N494K

 

 

 

<INDUCTION ICING STUDY.doc>


--

Corbin 
N33QR

--

--


Re: Your Opinion

Bill Allen
 

Also, FYI, Ben Ellison made some videos of his TBI and at the 4m46s point you can see ice formation in a carburettor here; 

On Sun, 3 Jan 2021 at 22:44, Bill Allen via groups.io <billallensworld=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Updraft, downdraft, - it doesn’t matter. What matters is the relative humidity and air temperature, combined with the carburettors venturi effect and the LHE of the fuel, as below;


On Sun, 3 Jan 2021 at 22:23, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:

Good points, Bill. I wonder if the EZ’s are not more prone to icing due to the updraft cooling, which puts the coolest air in the bottom half of the cowl?  Your thoughts?

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bill Allen
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 12:15 PM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion

 

“Carb” Ice on any engine using petroleum spirit with a Venturi metering device is a silent killer which doesn’t get the attention it deserves. 

Most folk don't ever test to see if their “carb heat” system meets the requirements of FAR 23.1093 (90f rise in intake aIr temp 65% at OAT of 30f)

If the engine quits because of carb ice, you’re going down, - and what’s more, the evidence of the cause of the failure will have melted away by the time any accident investigator gets there.

I’ve lost count of the numbers of people that have crashed due to carb ice/inadequate heat/unused carb heat, and believe that it’s the most dangerous thing on a Continental 0-200/0-240 which are otherwise a great engines.

I have a wrecked LongEz in my shop now (Continental 0-240) which was caused by a poor carb heat system, 

 See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/236048

 

A friend wrecked his LongEz, and was badly injured, due to not fully using carb heat;

See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/213001

 

Another friend had icing induced engine failure , and found a big tree in the field fate selected for him, which killed him; https://www.irishtimes.com/news/ireland/irish-news/aircraft-crashed-after-engine-cut-out-due-to-ice-inquest-hears-1.3407962

 

If you can't afford fuel injection, get carb heat muffs on headers both sides and make sure you get the heat rises called for in the FARs - it’s one of those regs that's “written in blood”.  And don't be shy about using heat all the way down to touchdown, and warming the engine every 500ft - those pipes don't have much thermal mass and quickly lose the ability to heat the air adequately.

 

Another thing I’ve noticed about fixed wing pilots is that many apply carb heat as if they were doing harm to the engine, and thus dont seem to like leaving it on.

While it’s true that max power is with cold air, you only need that on a climb out.

 So I’m puzzled when a pilot selects carb heat on the downwind, then turns it off on finals, just when going through the most vulnerable phase of the approach. 

If you believe that carb heat harms the engine in some way, keep in mind that all Robinson R22 helicopters (Lycoming 0-320/360) run with carb heat on all the time (unless you live in the desert of course...)

 

Fly safe, and land with heat :^)

 

Bill Allen

 

 

 

On Sun, 3 Jan 2021 at 19:13, Corbin via groups.io <c_geiser=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:

Agreed...love not worrying about carb ice!

Corbin



On Jan 3, 2021, at 11:09 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:



Martin,

 

Where did your Tri-Q end up?

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Martin Skiby
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 9:39 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion

 

I had it once very bad just as I was about to head over the mountains.  It was in the TriQ200.  70 degree day also.  Tried everything else first as I really did not expect the issue to be ice.  I turned back toward the valley and pulled the carb heat.  The engine sputtered for a bit then roared back to life.  

 

I had a cold air ram system into the carb for max performance.   The 0200 is famous for carb ice so I recommend NEVER flying without a working  carb heat!  Unless you have fuel injection like Corbin!!

 

Fly safe!

 

Martin

 

 

 

 

On Jan 2, 2021, at 7:54 AM, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:



Hello everyone,

I hope y'all had a great bringing in of the new year. 

 

I've attached an article I read about once every five years or so regarding carb icing. 

We all know about carb ice and the danger it poses.  I experienced it years ago in my then Aeronca Chief when, in the summer, the engine stopped producing power on final.  At least it would not throttle up when flaring to land and stopped on touchdown.  After setting a bit she started just fine...by hand propping of course. 

 

The highlighted area toward the end of the article gets my curiosity up and is what I would like your opinions on since many of you are much smarter than I.

The reason for asking is that somewhere in the 90's I had the throttle shaft, throttle plate and intake manifold teflon coated on my Quickie and this article is where it all started.

 

One hot humid day back then while looking down the carburetor with the engine running I was surprised at the amount of water that was forming on the throttle plate, the size of the droplets and the time it took for them to run off.  Onan carbs are on the top of the engine as most know.

I found a company in Indy that did industrial teflon coating, Keco Coatings, and they are still there and this is their website https://www.kecocoatings.com/coatings/teflon/

After the Teflon coating was done the water still formed but with a notable difference.  The droplets were miniature sized and it was like a contest to see who could run off the throttle plate first.  Very impressive.

 

I've never sought the opinion of others regarding this article but knowing the breath of knowledge among you Q guys I thought I'd reach out and see.

 

Thanks for taking the time.

Keith

N494K

 

 

 

<INDUCTION ICING STUDY.doc>


--

Corbin 
N33QR

--

--

--


Re: Your Opinion

Bill Allen
 

Updraft, downdraft, - it doesn’t matter. What matters is the relative humidity and air temperature, combined with the carburettors venturi effect and the LHE of the fuel, as below;


On Sun, 3 Jan 2021 at 22:23, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:

Good points, Bill. I wonder if the EZ’s are not more prone to icing due to the updraft cooling, which puts the coolest air in the bottom half of the cowl?  Your thoughts?

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bill Allen
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 12:15 PM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion

 

“Carb” Ice on any engine using petroleum spirit with a Venturi metering device is a silent killer which doesn’t get the attention it deserves. 

Most folk don't ever test to see if their “carb heat” system meets the requirements of FAR 23.1093 (90f rise in intake aIr temp 65% at OAT of 30f)

If the engine quits because of carb ice, you’re going down, - and what’s more, the evidence of the cause of the failure will have melted away by the time any accident investigator gets there.

I’ve lost count of the numbers of people that have crashed due to carb ice/inadequate heat/unused carb heat, and believe that it’s the most dangerous thing on a Continental 0-200/0-240 which are otherwise a great engines.

I have a wrecked LongEz in my shop now (Continental 0-240) which was caused by a poor carb heat system, 

 See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/236048

 

A friend wrecked his LongEz, and was badly injured, due to not fully using carb heat;

See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/213001

 

Another friend had icing induced engine failure , and found a big tree in the field fate selected for him, which killed him; https://www.irishtimes.com/news/ireland/irish-news/aircraft-crashed-after-engine-cut-out-due-to-ice-inquest-hears-1.3407962

 

If you can't afford fuel injection, get carb heat muffs on headers both sides and make sure you get the heat rises called for in the FARs - it’s one of those regs that's “written in blood”.  And don't be shy about using heat all the way down to touchdown, and warming the engine every 500ft - those pipes don't have much thermal mass and quickly lose the ability to heat the air adequately.

 

Another thing I’ve noticed about fixed wing pilots is that many apply carb heat as if they were doing harm to the engine, and thus dont seem to like leaving it on.

While it’s true that max power is with cold air, you only need that on a climb out.

 So I’m puzzled when a pilot selects carb heat on the downwind, then turns it off on finals, just when going through the most vulnerable phase of the approach. 

If you believe that carb heat harms the engine in some way, keep in mind that all Robinson R22 helicopters (Lycoming 0-320/360) run with carb heat on all the time (unless you live in the desert of course...)

 

Fly safe, and land with heat :^)

 

Bill Allen

 

 

 

On Sun, 3 Jan 2021 at 19:13, Corbin via groups.io <c_geiser=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:

Agreed...love not worrying about carb ice!

Corbin



On Jan 3, 2021, at 11:09 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:



Martin,

 

Where did your Tri-Q end up?

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Martin Skiby
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 9:39 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion

 

I had it once very bad just as I was about to head over the mountains.  It was in the TriQ200.  70 degree day also.  Tried everything else first as I really did not expect the issue to be ice.  I turned back toward the valley and pulled the carb heat.  The engine sputtered for a bit then roared back to life.  

 

I had a cold air ram system into the carb for max performance.   The 0200 is famous for carb ice so I recommend NEVER flying without a working  carb heat!  Unless you have fuel injection like Corbin!!

 

Fly safe!

 

Martin

 

 

 

 

On Jan 2, 2021, at 7:54 AM, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:



Hello everyone,

I hope y'all had a great bringing in of the new year. 

 

I've attached an article I read about once every five years or so regarding carb icing. 

We all know about carb ice and the danger it poses.  I experienced it years ago in my then Aeronca Chief when, in the summer, the engine stopped producing power on final.  At least it would not throttle up when flaring to land and stopped on touchdown.  After setting a bit she started just fine...by hand propping of course. 

 

The highlighted area toward the end of the article gets my curiosity up and is what I would like your opinions on since many of you are much smarter than I.

The reason for asking is that somewhere in the 90's I had the throttle shaft, throttle plate and intake manifold teflon coated on my Quickie and this article is where it all started.

 

One hot humid day back then while looking down the carburetor with the engine running I was surprised at the amount of water that was forming on the throttle plate, the size of the droplets and the time it took for them to run off.  Onan carbs are on the top of the engine as most know.

I found a company in Indy that did industrial teflon coating, Keco Coatings, and they are still there and this is their website https://www.kecocoatings.com/coatings/teflon/

After the Teflon coating was done the water still formed but with a notable difference.  The droplets were miniature sized and it was like a contest to see who could run off the throttle plate first.  Very impressive.

 

I've never sought the opinion of others regarding this article but knowing the breath of knowledge among you Q guys I thought I'd reach out and see.

 

Thanks for taking the time.

Keith

N494K

 

 

 

<INDUCTION ICING STUDY.doc>


--

Corbin 
N33QR

--

--


Re: Your Opinion

Jay Scheevel
 

Good points, Bill. I wonder if the EZ’s are not more prone to icing due to the updraft cooling, which puts the coolest air in the bottom half of the cowl?  Your thoughts?

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bill Allen
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 12:15 PM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion

 

“Carb” Ice on any engine using petroleum spirit with a Venturi metering device is a silent killer which doesn’t get the attention it deserves. 

Most folk don't ever test to see if their “carb heat” system meets the requirements of FAR 23.1093 (90f rise in intake aIr temp 65% at OAT of 30f)

If the engine quits because of carb ice, you’re going down, - and what’s more, the evidence of the cause of the failure will have melted away by the time any accident investigator gets there.

I’ve lost count of the numbers of people that have crashed due to carb ice/inadequate heat/unused carb heat, and believe that it’s the most dangerous thing on a Continental 0-200/0-240 which are otherwise a great engines.

I have a wrecked LongEz in my shop now (Continental 0-240) which was caused by a poor carb heat system, 

 See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/236048

 

A friend wrecked his LongEz, and was badly injured, due to not fully using carb heat;

See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/213001

 

Another friend had icing induced engine failure , and found a big tree in the field fate selected for him, which killed him; https://www.irishtimes.com/news/ireland/irish-news/aircraft-crashed-after-engine-cut-out-due-to-ice-inquest-hears-1.3407962

 

If you can't afford fuel injection, get carb heat muffs on headers both sides and make sure you get the heat rises called for in the FARs - it’s one of those regs that's “written in blood”.  And don't be shy about using heat all the way down to touchdown, and warming the engine every 500ft - those pipes don't have much thermal mass and quickly lose the ability to heat the air adequately.

 

Another thing I’ve noticed about fixed wing pilots is that many apply carb heat as if they were doing harm to the engine, and thus dont seem to like leaving it on.

While it’s true that max power is with cold air, you only need that on a climb out.

 So I’m puzzled when a pilot selects carb heat on the downwind, then turns it off on finals, just when going through the most vulnerable phase of the approach. 

If you believe that carb heat harms the engine in some way, keep in mind that all Robinson R22 helicopters (Lycoming 0-320/360) run with carb heat on all the time (unless you live in the desert of course...)

 

Fly safe, and land with heat :^)

 

Bill Allen

 

 

 

On Sun, 3 Jan 2021 at 19:13, Corbin via groups.io <c_geiser=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:

Agreed...love not worrying about carb ice!

Corbin



On Jan 3, 2021, at 11:09 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:



Martin,

 

Where did your Tri-Q end up?

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Martin Skiby
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 9:39 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion

 

I had it once very bad just as I was about to head over the mountains.  It was in the TriQ200.  70 degree day also.  Tried everything else first as I really did not expect the issue to be ice.  I turned back toward the valley and pulled the carb heat.  The engine sputtered for a bit then roared back to life.  

 

I had a cold air ram system into the carb for max performance.   The 0200 is famous for carb ice so I recommend NEVER flying without a working  carb heat!  Unless you have fuel injection like Corbin!!

 

Fly safe!

 

Martin

 

 

 

 

On Jan 2, 2021, at 7:54 AM, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:



Hello everyone,

I hope y'all had a great bringing in of the new year. 

 

I've attached an article I read about once every five years or so regarding carb icing. 

We all know about carb ice and the danger it poses.  I experienced it years ago in my then Aeronca Chief when, in the summer, the engine stopped producing power on final.  At least it would not throttle up when flaring to land and stopped on touchdown.  After setting a bit she started just fine...by hand propping of course. 

 

The highlighted area toward the end of the article gets my curiosity up and is what I would like your opinions on since many of you are much smarter than I.

The reason for asking is that somewhere in the 90's I had the throttle shaft, throttle plate and intake manifold teflon coated on my Quickie and this article is where it all started.

 

One hot humid day back then while looking down the carburetor with the engine running I was surprised at the amount of water that was forming on the throttle plate, the size of the droplets and the time it took for them to run off.  Onan carbs are on the top of the engine as most know.

I found a company in Indy that did industrial teflon coating, Keco Coatings, and they are still there and this is their website https://www.kecocoatings.com/coatings/teflon/

After the Teflon coating was done the water still formed but with a notable difference.  The droplets were miniature sized and it was like a contest to see who could run off the throttle plate first.  Very impressive.

 

I've never sought the opinion of others regarding this article but knowing the breath of knowledge among you Q guys I thought I'd reach out and see.

 

Thanks for taking the time.

Keith

N494K

 

 

 

<INDUCTION ICING STUDY.doc>


--

Corbin 
N33QR

--


Re: Your Opinion

Dragonfly Russell
 

Fantastic perspective, Bill. Thanks for sharing!

Russell Austin


On Jan 3, 2021, at 1:15 PM, Bill Allen <billallensworld@...> wrote:



“Carb” Ice on any engine using petroleum spirit with a Venturi metering device is a silent killer which doesn’t get the attention it deserves. 

Most folk don't ever test to see if their “carb heat” system meets the requirements of FAR 23.1093 (90f rise in intake aIr temp 65% at OAT of 30f)

If the engine quits because of carb ice, you’re going down, - and what’s more, the evidence of the cause of the failure will have melted away by the time any accident investigator gets there.

I’ve lost count of the numbers of people that have crashed due to carb ice/inadequate heat/unused carb heat, and believe that it’s the most dangerous thing on a Continental 0-200/0-240 which are otherwise a great engines.

I have a wrecked LongEz in my shop now (Continental 0-240) which was caused by a poor carb heat system, 

 See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/236048


A friend wrecked his LongEz, and was badly injured, due to not fully using carb heat;

See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/213001


Another friend had icing induced engine failure , and found a big tree in the field fate selected for him, which killed him; https://www.irishtimes.com/news/ireland/irish-news/aircraft-crashed-after-engine-cut-out-due-to-ice-inquest-hears-1.3407962


If you can't afford fuel injection, get carb heat muffs on headers both sides and make sure you get the heat rises called for in the FARs - it’s one of those regs that's “written in blood”.  And don't be shy about using heat all the way down to touchdown, and warming the engine every 500ft - those pipes don't have much thermal mass and quickly lose the ability to heat the air adequately.


Another thing I’ve noticed about fixed wing pilots is that many apply carb heat as if they were doing harm to the engine, and thus dont seem to like leaving it on.

While it’s true that max power is with cold air, you only need that on a climb out.

 So I’m puzzled when a pilot selects carb heat on the downwind, then turns it off on finals, just when going through the most vulnerable phase of the approach. 

If you believe that carb heat harms the engine in some way, keep in mind that all Robinson R22 helicopters (Lycoming 0-320/360) run with carb heat on all the time (unless you live in the desert of course...)


Fly safe, and land with heat :^)


Bill Allen




On Sun, 3 Jan 2021 at 19:13, Corbin via groups.io <c_geiser=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:
Agreed...love not worrying about carb ice!

Corbin

On Jan 3, 2021, at 11:09 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:



Martin,

 

Where did your Tri-Q end up?

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Martin Skiby
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 9:39 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion

 

I had it once very bad just as I was about to head over the mountains.  It was in the TriQ200.  70 degree day also.  Tried everything else first as I really did not expect the issue to be ice.  I turned back toward the valley and pulled the carb heat.  The engine sputtered for a bit then roared back to life.  

 

I had a cold air ram system into the carb for max performance.   The 0200 is famous for carb ice so I recommend NEVER flying without a working  carb heat!  Unless you have fuel injection like Corbin!!

 

Fly safe!

 

Martin

 

 

 



On Jan 2, 2021, at 7:54 AM, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:



Hello everyone,

I hope y'all had a great bringing in of the new year. 

 

I've attached an article I read about once every five years or so regarding carb icing. 

We all know about carb ice and the danger it poses.  I experienced it years ago in my then Aeronca Chief when, in the summer, the engine stopped producing power on final.  At least it would not throttle up when flaring to land and stopped on touchdown.  After setting a bit she started just fine...by hand propping of course. 

 

The highlighted area toward the end of the article gets my curiosity up and is what I would like your opinions on since many of you are much smarter than I.

The reason for asking is that somewhere in the 90's I had the throttle shaft, throttle plate and intake manifold teflon coated on my Quickie and this article is where it all started.

 

One hot humid day back then while looking down the carburetor with the engine running I was surprised at the amount of water that was forming on the throttle plate, the size of the droplets and the time it took for them to run off.  Onan carbs are on the top of the engine as most know.

I found a company in Indy that did industrial teflon coating, Keco Coatings, and they are still there and this is their website https://www.kecocoatings.com/coatings/teflon/

After the Teflon coating was done the water still formed but with a notable difference.  The droplets were miniature sized and it was like a contest to see who could run off the throttle plate first.  Very impressive.

 

I've never sought the opinion of others regarding this article but knowing the breath of knowledge among you Q guys I thought I'd reach out and see.

 

Thanks for taking the time.

Keith

N494K

 

 

 

<INDUCTION ICING STUDY.doc>


--

Corbin 
N33QR

--

4401 - 4420 of 55446