Date   

Re: Cutting control cable

Kevin Boddicker
 

The SKY King of broken planes.

: >)))) 

Kevin

On Jan 4, 2021, at 11:07 AM, One Sky Dog via groups.io <Oneskydog@...> wrote:

Jay,

I may have already been outed.

No tandem wing flying for me but I have been trading glass for air. I did a Cherokee nose bowl repair. Replaced the factory crappy sandwich stiffeners. He has taken me flying twice and let’s me fly if I want. Did my first right seat take off and landing in a Cherokee 140 last week. We are right in the middle of flying season, cool air, no snow, clear skies, 67 F today. We also landed on the dry lake bed near Wilson Az. and another dirt strip 2500 ft 4200 MSL.

The Oklahoma oil line problem on the Tri-Pacer has resulted in me making a precautionary landing on the way home from Ogden in September. The #2 rod bearing has failed. I do not know the crank condition. Looking at repair options now plane is at Benson hangar.

King of broken airplanes,

Charlie a.k.a. One Sky Dog



On Jan 4, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:



Sounds like the way to go, John. I would take Charlie’s advice.

 

For those who don’t know Charlie is One Sky Dog. I hope I haven’t blown your “witness protection program” cover, Charlie!

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of One Sky Dog via groups.io
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 9:29 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Cutting control cable

 

With all the analysis and getting out the chainsaw equivalent die grinder and pumping up the compressor.

 

As I used to tell my students power tools are not always faster or better.

 

With the cable in the spiral determine length. Remove plastic coating if present. With pliers kink the spiral to open up a coil where you want to cut it. File diagonally with the corner of a file to cut half way thru then use pliers to bend back and forth to break at the file cut. Controlled operation no chance of damage to inner cable no slip of the die grinder.

 

You are the mechanic in charge, 40 years of manufacturing and maintenance. 
Cut many cables.

 

One Sky Dog

 



On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:39 PM, John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns@...> wrote:

It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years. 

 

On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io

<britmcman@...> wrote:

If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables.  Phil 



On Jan 3, 2021, at 4:54 AM, Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:



Wrap it with masking tape.  Use a die grinder with cutting blade.  You'll use the die grinder for lots of things.

Fly safe.

Mike

 

On Sat, Jan 2, 2021, 9:31 PM John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands? 




Re: Another flight report.

Bruce Crain
 

Fantastic Sammy!  Lovin’ that panel!  Lots of knobs that I don’t have any idea about their use.  Hopefully next week I will join the ranks!
Bruce 


On Jan 4, 2021, at 4:54 PM, Corbin via groups.io <c_geiser@...> wrote:

Glad you got up in the air!  

What MPH do you look for on final?  I wonder if I’m a tad slow at 85mph on final and trying to touch down around 75mph (not looking inside by that point).

Corbin

On Jan 4, 2021, at 5:42 PM, Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins@...> wrote:


I'm sorry I didn't make a January 1st flight, but at least I made a January 4th flight. I was a little delayed by completing my annual condition inspection, plus the weather wasn't the greatest. I made a significant change to my fuel injection system, removing the backup injectors from the throttle body, and completely reprogramming the mixture map for the system. All in all, I'm glad I did it and I think it's going to be a good thing.

Today I got up for about 40 minutes and proved out the new system, and all is good. But I tell you, there's nothing like staying in the air to remain current. As always, my biggest challenge is maintaining my proper air speeds in the pattern. I always seem to be about 10 miles an hour faster, which certainly messes up my landing. It requires close attention.

It was fun to get back up again today.

Sam Hoskins 
Q-200 



<PXL_20210104_191706503.jpg>

--

Corbin 
N33QR



Re: Another flight report.

Corbin
 

Glad you got up in the air!  

What MPH do you look for on final?  I wonder if I’m a tad slow at 85mph on final and trying to touch down around 75mph (not looking inside by that point).

Corbin

On Jan 4, 2021, at 5:42 PM, Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins@...> wrote:


I'm sorry I didn't make a January 1st flight, but at least I made a January 4th flight. I was a little delayed by completing my annual condition inspection, plus the weather wasn't the greatest. I made a significant change to my fuel injection system, removing the backup injectors from the throttle body, and completely reprogramming the mixture map for the system. All in all, I'm glad I did it and I think it's going to be a good thing.

Today I got up for about 40 minutes and proved out the new system, and all is good. But I tell you, there's nothing like staying in the air to remain current. As always, my biggest challenge is maintaining my proper air speeds in the pattern. I always seem to be about 10 miles an hour faster, which certainly messes up my landing. It requires close attention.

It was fun to get back up again today.

Sam Hoskins 
Q-200 



<PXL_20210104_191706503.jpg>

--

Corbin 
N33QR


Another flight report.

Sam Hoskins
 

I'm sorry I didn't make a January 1st flight, but at least I made a January 4th flight. I was a little delayed by completing my annual condition inspection, plus the weather wasn't the greatest. I made a significant change to my fuel injection system, removing the backup injectors from the throttle body, and completely reprogramming the mixture map for the system. All in all, I'm glad I did it and I think it's going to be a good thing.

Today I got up for about 40 minutes and proved out the new system, and all is good. But I tell you, there's nothing like staying in the air to remain current. As always, my biggest challenge is maintaining my proper air speeds in the pattern. I always seem to be about 10 miles an hour faster, which certainly messes up my landing. It requires close attention.

It was fun to get back up again today.

Sam Hoskins 
Q-200 




Re: Charlie's Dragonfly Repairs

smeshno1@...
 

 Charlie.. did you base your cowling using the WW 750 nosebowl or did you fab up this unit?   


From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> on behalf of Jay Scheevel <jay@...>
Sent: Monday, January 4, 2021 3:44 PM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io>
Subject: [Q-List] Charlie's Dragonfly Repairs
 

Looks like you are getting there, Charlie. It would be great to have both you and Bob show up in two Dragonflies. Bruce would do a little dance he would be so happy! Let me know when you get back up to Ogden again for a spell and I will see if I can make a flight over there in my Q. BTW, I changed the name of the thread to keep up with the conversation.

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of One Sky Dog via groups.io
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 1:32 PM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Cutting control cable

 

Jay,

 

Here are a few.

 


After a bad day of flying!

 


Replacement canard and gear and engine on its feet.

Reworked cowl to make space for MS carb. To replace vapor locking TBI carb.

 

So I still have a problem with right side elevator torque tube alignment with the elevator. I have to drop the canard and cut out the bearing blocks and redo them. Wiring changes, finish rebuilding elevator fairings, engine control hookups and a bunch of other little things. Then start the test flights again. Oh! wheel pants Need to be completed. 

 

I will have to bring my 20 ft barriers to put around it as it ain’t no Lindy nearing 900 hours and 30+ years, 4 engines, 3 canards, 2 owners.


I can only work on it after the snow melts and the temperatures in Ogden are habitable for camping. I hope next summer will be successful and I can show up in a proper airplane at the FOD.

 

Charlie


Re: Charlie's Dragonfly Repairs

Bruce Crain
 

Great progress pics Charlie!!  I will “bust mah grove” if you taxi up at Field Of Dreams with that D/Fly!  
Bruce


On Jan 4, 2021, at 2:45 PM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:



Looks like you are getting there, Charlie. It would be great to have both you and Bob show up in two Dragonflies. Bruce would do a little dance he would be so happy! Let me know when you get back up to Ogden again for a spell and I will see if I can make a flight over there in my Q. BTW, I changed the name of the thread to keep up with the conversation.

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of One Sky Dog via groups.io
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 1:32 PM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Cutting control cable

 

Jay,

 

Here are a few.

 

<image001.jpg>

<image002.jpg>

After a bad day of flying!

 

<image003.jpg>

Replacement canard and gear and engine on its feet.
<image004.jpg>

Reworked cowl to make space for MS carb. To replace vapor locking TBI carb.

 

So I still have a problem with right side elevator torque tube alignment with the elevator. I have to drop the canard and cut out the bearing blocks and redo them. Wiring changes, finish rebuilding elevator fairings, engine control hookups and a bunch of other little things. Then start the test flights again. Oh! wheel pants Need to be completed. 

 

I will have to bring my 20 ft barriers to put around it as it ain’t no Lindy nearing 900 hours and 30+ years, 4 engines, 3 canards, 2 owners.


I can only work on it after the snow melts and the temperatures in Ogden are habitable for camping. I hope next summer will be successful and I can show up in a proper airplane at the FOD.

 

Charlie




Re: Your Opinion

Bill Allen
 

Bad Carb heat again; 

Bill

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 19:32, Bill Allen via groups.io <billallensworld=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Uh-oh! If it’s a Certified engine in a certified airframe, it should be able to idle with carb heat without stopping. That’s just bad maintenance. 
A Lycoming with the Marvel Schebler carb is straightforward to set up - 1930’s tech. :^)

Bill

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 17:06, Richard Thomson <richard@...> wrote:

It wasn't on my 0200, it was a club Cherokee with a Lycoming, but it taught me a lesson that sticks in the mind for the future reference. :-Br

Br

RichT

On 04/01/2021 10:47, Bill Allen wrote:
Hi Rich - what engine do you have?  If it rich-cuts at idle, it should be possible to alter the setup so that it doesn’t....

Bill

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 11:35, Richard Thomson <richard@...> wrote:

 Thanks Bill, that is some interesting information to consider.

    The reason I select carb heat cold on late final is not damage to the engine but Rich Cut, and even then that is not a problem if you are landing, but on T&G's and on short fields can be a decider if you end up in the hedge ( or at Henstridge in the fence or girders), so I my norm is Carb Heat Cold on late final and a gentle cycle of the throttle to check its still there.

    Br

    RichT.


On 04/01/2021 08:13, Bill Allen wrote:

Hi Kieth,

You wrote: <<  I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist. >>r

Joel Ventura did quite a detailed article on Prist etc here: 


Bill

Note: Prist wont stop carb ice, which comes out of the atmosphere. Prist deals with water already in suspension within the fuel. 

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 03:58, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
Hi again,
All your comments, experiences and knowledge no doubt turned out to be a real education.  I don’t know about y’all but icing is normally not a discussion item.  I’m glad I took the chance to post the article.  Learned more than I thought I would.  And thank you all for “Your Opinions”
 
I must admit I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist.  I did actually use it in the Quickie for a time.  Reckon it did ok..that was several years ago.  My Q does not have carb heat nor does the carb have access to outside air, only hot air off the engine and is why the interest in the Teflon coating.  The carb on the newer Onan sets higher so to accommodate a new heat box I would need to make a new cowl bump....like that was gonna happen!  Not surprised no one had much to say about it.  
 
Like Jay I’m sure ice will form Teflon or not but I’ve never used a Teflon coated anything that anything would stick to it.  I once froze water in both a steel pan and a Teflon one.  Guess which one the ice slid out of.  The steel pan had ice remnants sticking to it after most was chipped out.  Yeah, pretty unscientific but....  Think about your plastic ice server bucket when guest come over, the ice sticks to everything even fingers.  At least modern technology has provided us with some options.

Thanks again,
Keith

Please note: message attached

From: "Mike Dwyer " <q200pilot@...>
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 17:00:40 -0500



--
--

--

--


Charlie's Dragonfly Repairs

Jay Scheevel
 

Looks like you are getting there, Charlie. It would be great to have both you and Bob show up in two Dragonflies. Bruce would do a little dance he would be so happy! Let me know when you get back up to Ogden again for a spell and I will see if I can make a flight over there in my Q. BTW, I changed the name of the thread to keep up with the conversation.

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of One Sky Dog via groups.io
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 1:32 PM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Cutting control cable

 

Jay,

 

Here are a few.

 


After a bad day of flying!

 


Replacement canard and gear and engine on its feet.

Reworked cowl to make space for MS carb. To replace vapor locking TBI carb.

 

So I still have a problem with right side elevator torque tube alignment with the elevator. I have to drop the canard and cut out the bearing blocks and redo them. Wiring changes, finish rebuilding elevator fairings, engine control hookups and a bunch of other little things. Then start the test flights again. Oh! wheel pants Need to be completed. 

 

I will have to bring my 20 ft barriers to put around it as it ain’t no Lindy nearing 900 hours and 30+ years, 4 engines, 3 canards, 2 owners.


I can only work on it after the snow melts and the temperatures in Ogden are habitable for camping. I hope next summer will be successful and I can show up in a proper airplane at the FOD.

 

Charlie


Re: Cutting control cable

One Sky Dog
 

Jay,

Here are a few.



After a bad day of flying!


Replacement canard and gear and engine on its feet.

Reworked cowl to make space for MS carb. To replace vapor locking TBI carb.

So I still have a problem with right side elevator torque tube alignment with the elevator. I have to drop the canard and cut out the bearing blocks and redo them. Wiring changes, finish rebuilding elevator fairings, engine control hookups and a bunch of other little things. Then start the test flights again. Oh! wheel pants Need to be completed. 

I will have to bring my 20 ft barriers to put around it as it ain’t no Lindy nearing 900 hours and 30+ years, 4 engines, 3 canards, 2 owners.

I can only work on it after the snow melts and the temperatures in Ogden are habitable for camping. I hope next summer will be successful and I can show up in a proper airplane at the FOD.

On Jan 4, 2021, at 10:53 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:



Sorry to hear about the Tri-Pacer, Charlie. That is disappointing when you have to get into the engine for repairs. Glad it didn’t give up on you in flight. How was the progress on the D-fly this year?  Got any update photos for the group here?

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of One Sky Dog via groups.io
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 10:08 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Cutting control cable

 

Jay,

 

I may have already been outed.

 

No tandem wing flying for me but I have been trading glass for air. I did a Cherokee nose bowl repair. Replaced the factory crappy sandwich stiffeners. He has taken me flying twice and let’s me fly if I want. Did my first right seat take off and landing in a Cherokee 140 last week. We are right in the middle of flying season, cool air, no snow, clear skies, 67 F today. We also landed on the dry lake bed near Wilson Az. and another dirt strip 2500 ft 4200 MSL.

 

The Oklahoma oil line problem on the Tri-Pacer has resulted in me making a precautionary landing on the way home from Ogden in September. The #2 rod bearing has failed. I do not know the crank condition. Looking at repair options now plane is at Benson hangar.

 

King of broken airplanes,

 

Charlie a.k.a. One Sky Dog

 



On Jan 4, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:



Sounds like the way to go, John. I would take Charlie’s advice.

 

For those who don’t know Charlie is One Sky Dog. I hope I haven’t blown your “witness protection program” cover, Charlie!

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of One Sky Dog via groups.io
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 9:29 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Cutting control cable

 

With all the analysis and getting out the chainsaw equivalent die grinder and pumping up the compressor.

 

As I used to tell my students power tools are not always faster or better.

 

With the cable in the spiral determine length. Remove plastic coating if present. With pliers kink the spiral to open up a coil where you want to cut it. File diagonally with the corner of a file to cut half way thru then use pliers to bend back and forth to break at the file cut. Controlled operation no chance of damage to inner cable no slip of the die grinder.

 

You are the mechanic in charge, 40 years of manufacturing and maintenance. 
Cut many cables.

 

One Sky Dog

 




On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:39 PM, John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns@...> wrote:

It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years. 

 

On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io

<britmcman@...> wrote:

If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables.  Phil 




On Jan 3, 2021, at 4:54 AM, Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:



Wrap it with masking tape.  Use a die grinder with cutting blade.  You'll use the die grinder for lots of things.

Fly safe.

Mike

 

On Sat, Jan 2, 2021, 9:31 PM John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands? 


Re: Your Opinion

Bill Allen
 

Uh-oh! If it’s a Certified engine in a certified airframe, it should be able to idle with carb heat without stopping. That’s just bad maintenance. 
A Lycoming with the Marvel Schebler carb is straightforward to set up - 1930’s tech. :^)

Bill

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 17:06, Richard Thomson <richard@...> wrote:

It wasn't on my 0200, it was a club Cherokee with a Lycoming, but it taught me a lesson that sticks in the mind for the future reference. :-Br

Br

RichT

On 04/01/2021 10:47, Bill Allen wrote:
Hi Rich - what engine do you have?  If it rich-cuts at idle, it should be possible to alter the setup so that it doesn’t....

Bill

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 11:35, Richard Thomson <richard@...> wrote:

 Thanks Bill, that is some interesting information to consider.

    The reason I select carb heat cold on late final is not damage to the engine but Rich Cut, and even then that is not a problem if you are landing, but on T&G's and on short fields can be a decider if you end up in the hedge ( or at Henstridge in the fence or girders), so I my norm is Carb Heat Cold on late final and a gentle cycle of the throttle to check its still there.

    Br

    RichT.


On 04/01/2021 08:13, Bill Allen wrote:

Hi Kieth,

You wrote: <<  I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist. >>r

Joel Ventura did quite a detailed article on Prist etc here: 


Bill

Note: Prist wont stop carb ice, which comes out of the atmosphere. Prist deals with water already in suspension within the fuel. 

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 03:58, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
Hi again,
All your comments, experiences and knowledge no doubt turned out to be a real education.  I don’t know about y’all but icing is normally not a discussion item.  I’m glad I took the chance to post the article.  Learned more than I thought I would.  And thank you all for “Your Opinions”
 
I must admit I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist.  I did actually use it in the Quickie for a time.  Reckon it did ok..that was several years ago.  My Q does not have carb heat nor does the carb have access to outside air, only hot air off the engine and is why the interest in the Teflon coating.  The carb on the newer Onan sets higher so to accommodate a new heat box I would need to make a new cowl bump....like that was gonna happen!  Not surprised no one had much to say about it.  
 
Like Jay I’m sure ice will form Teflon or not but I’ve never used a Teflon coated anything that anything would stick to it.  I once froze water in both a steel pan and a Teflon one.  Guess which one the ice slid out of.  The steel pan had ice remnants sticking to it after most was chipped out.  Yeah, pretty unscientific but....  Think about your plastic ice server bucket when guest come over, the ice sticks to everything even fingers.  At least modern technology has provided us with some options.

Thanks again,
Keith

Please note: message attached

From: "Mike Dwyer " <q200pilot@...>
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 17:00:40 -0500



--
--

--


Re: Your Opinion

 

Hi Bill,
Thanks for the valuable info.  It's nice to hear from someone with real life experiences and first hand knowledge.
The link sent says I don't have permission to view the contents.  Would there be another way?
 
The Ellison video was very good especially the views of the throttle plate icing.  Thanks for sharing.
At the Keco website I see where they advertise coating throttle body shafts among other things.
I believe it was the 400p that was used on mine which was done back in the mid 90's. 
I remember them telling me temperature would not affect the coating.  With a 500 degree resistance I doubt that it would.
 
Thanks again for your help getting us to taking another look at icing.
Keith


Please note: message attached

From: "Bill Allen" <billallensworld@...>
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2021 09:13:54 +0100




Re: Cutting control cable

Jay Scheevel
 

Sorry to hear about the Tri-Pacer, Charlie. That is disappointing when you have to get into the engine for repairs. Glad it didn’t give up on you in flight. How was the progress on the D-fly this year?  Got any update photos for the group here?

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of One Sky Dog via groups.io
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 10:08 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Cutting control cable

 

Jay,

 

I may have already been outed.

 

No tandem wing flying for me but I have been trading glass for air. I did a Cherokee nose bowl repair. Replaced the factory crappy sandwich stiffeners. He has taken me flying twice and let’s me fly if I want. Did my first right seat take off and landing in a Cherokee 140 last week. We are right in the middle of flying season, cool air, no snow, clear skies, 67 F today. We also landed on the dry lake bed near Wilson Az. and another dirt strip 2500 ft 4200 MSL.

 

The Oklahoma oil line problem on the Tri-Pacer has resulted in me making a precautionary landing on the way home from Ogden in September. The #2 rod bearing has failed. I do not know the crank condition. Looking at repair options now plane is at Benson hangar.

 

King of broken airplanes,

 

Charlie a.k.a. One Sky Dog

 



On Jan 4, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:



Sounds like the way to go, John. I would take Charlie’s advice.

 

For those who don’t know Charlie is One Sky Dog. I hope I haven’t blown your “witness protection program” cover, Charlie!

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of One Sky Dog via groups.io
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 9:29 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Cutting control cable

 

With all the analysis and getting out the chainsaw equivalent die grinder and pumping up the compressor.

 

As I used to tell my students power tools are not always faster or better.

 

With the cable in the spiral determine length. Remove plastic coating if present. With pliers kink the spiral to open up a coil where you want to cut it. File diagonally with the corner of a file to cut half way thru then use pliers to bend back and forth to break at the file cut. Controlled operation no chance of damage to inner cable no slip of the die grinder.

 

You are the mechanic in charge, 40 years of manufacturing and maintenance. 
Cut many cables.

 

One Sky Dog

 




On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:39 PM, John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns@...> wrote:

It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years. 

 

On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io

<britmcman@...> wrote:

If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables.  Phil 




On Jan 3, 2021, at 4:54 AM, Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:



Wrap it with masking tape.  Use a die grinder with cutting blade.  You'll use the die grinder for lots of things.

Fly safe.

Mike

 

On Sat, Jan 2, 2021, 9:31 PM John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands? 


Re: Cutting control cable

One Sky Dog
 

Jay,

I may have already been outed.

No tandem wing flying for me but I have been trading glass for air. I did a Cherokee nose bowl repair. Replaced the factory crappy sandwich stiffeners. He has taken me flying twice and let’s me fly if I want. Did my first right seat take off and landing in a Cherokee 140 last week. We are right in the middle of flying season, cool air, no snow, clear skies, 67 F today. We also landed on the dry lake bed near Wilson Az. and another dirt strip 2500 ft 4200 MSL.

The Oklahoma oil line problem on the Tri-Pacer has resulted in me making a precautionary landing on the way home from Ogden in September. The #2 rod bearing has failed. I do not know the crank condition. Looking at repair options now plane is at Benson hangar.

King of broken airplanes,

Charlie a.k.a. One Sky Dog

On Jan 4, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:



Sounds like the way to go, John. I would take Charlie’s advice.

 

For those who don’t know Charlie is One Sky Dog. I hope I haven’t blown your “witness protection program” cover, Charlie!

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of One Sky Dog via groups.io
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 9:29 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Cutting control cable

 

With all the analysis and getting out the chainsaw equivalent die grinder and pumping up the compressor.

 

As I used to tell my students power tools are not always faster or better.

 

With the cable in the spiral determine length. Remove plastic coating if present. With pliers kink the spiral to open up a coil where you want to cut it. File diagonally with the corner of a file to cut half way thru then use pliers to bend back and forth to break at the file cut. Controlled operation no chance of damage to inner cable no slip of the die grinder.

 

You are the mechanic in charge, 40 years of manufacturing and maintenance. 
Cut many cables.

 

One Sky Dog

 



On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:39 PM, John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns@...> wrote:

It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years. 

 

On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io

<britmcman@...> wrote:

If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables.  Phil 



On Jan 3, 2021, at 4:54 AM, Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:



Wrap it with masking tape.  Use a die grinder with cutting blade.  You'll use the die grinder for lots of things.

Fly safe.

Mike

 

On Sat, Jan 2, 2021, 9:31 PM John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands? 


Re: Cutting control cable

Jay Scheevel
 

Sounds like the way to go, John. I would take Charlie’s advice.

 

For those who don’t know Charlie is One Sky Dog. I hope I haven’t blown your “witness protection program” cover, Charlie!

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of One Sky Dog via groups.io
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 9:29 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Cutting control cable

 

With all the analysis and getting out the chainsaw equivalent die grinder and pumping up the compressor.

 

As I used to tell my students power tools are not always faster or better.

 

With the cable in the spiral determine length. Remove plastic coating if present. With pliers kink the spiral to open up a coil where you want to cut it. File diagonally with the corner of a file to cut half way thru then use pliers to bend back and forth to break at the file cut. Controlled operation no chance of damage to inner cable no slip of the die grinder.

 

You are the mechanic in charge, 40 years of manufacturing and maintenance. 
Cut many cables.

 

One Sky Dog

 



On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:39 PM, John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns@...> wrote:

It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years. 

 

On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io

<britmcman@...> wrote:

If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables.  Phil 



On Jan 3, 2021, at 4:54 AM, Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:



Wrap it with masking tape.  Use a die grinder with cutting blade.  You'll use the die grinder for lots of things.

Fly safe.

Mike

 

On Sat, Jan 2, 2021, 9:31 PM John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands? 


Re: Cutting control cable

One Sky Dog
 

With all the analysis and getting out the chainsaw equivalent die grinder and pumping up the compressor.

As I used to tell my students power tools are not always faster or better.

With the cable in the spiral determine length. Remove plastic coating if present. With pliers kink the spiral to open up a coil where you want to cut it. File diagonally with the corner of a file to cut half way thru then use pliers to bend back and forth to break at the file cut. Controlled operation no chance of damage to inner cable no slip of the die grinder.

You are the mechanic in charge, 40 years of manufacturing and maintenance. 
Cut many cables.

One Sky Dog

On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:39 PM, John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns@...> wrote:

It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years. 


On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io
<britmcman@...> wrote:
If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables.  Phil 


On Jan 3, 2021, at 4:54 AM, Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:


Wrap it with masking tape.  Use a die grinder with cutting blade.  You'll use the die grinder for lots of things.
Fly safe.
Mike

On Sat, Jan 2, 2021, 9:31 PM John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands? 


Re: New Years Day Flight Report

John Hoxie
 

Great videos Jay. Most often I read Q-List email on my phone and intend to watch on my big screen later. With 40-50 emails per day, out of sight, out of mind. But this time I starred your email so I could find it easily later.

 
John Hoxie
He is no fool, who gives up what he can not keep, to gain what he can not loose -- Jim Elliot


On Friday, January 1, 2021, 09:14:11 PM MST, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:


Hi Mike,

Thanks. Happy New Year! I put that hot air duct in from the start of my building the cockpit but have not needed it yet. I live in a pretty dry climate, so not that unexpected but I figure when/if I do need it sometime I will be happy to have it. 

Cheers,
Jay




On Jan 1, 2021, at 8:12 PM, Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:


Great report Jay.  Really sharp videos too.  Have you ever had the canopy fog or freeze over.  I saw you had some kind of canopy heater.  It was way too windy here for fun flying.  Well done.
Mike

On Fri, Jan 1, 2021, 8:23 PM Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:

Well, I finally have been able to take advantage of good weather on New Years Day and get a flight in. What a nice flight it was. Dead calm on the ground and very smooth in the air. A few degrees below freezing on take off in the early afternoon. We had some snow earlier in the week, so there was lots of snow around my airport, but taxiways and runway were clear and dry for nice takeoff and landing. When I first took off, I headed south to go over the Interstate (70), then over the Colorado river. It was a very nice view with the snow combined with the pink sandstone cliffs along the river. I made a partial turn with rudder only, holding my camera phone and taking short video while looking out the right side of the plane. I was surprised when I looked back at the ball and it seemed to be pretty coordinated using just rudder. Maybe I will try this more often. I then turned SE and followed the Colorado river, to the Junction of the Gunnison then along the Gunnison river canyon to about 40 miles southeast of Grand Junction and took another short video out the left side of the plane. The distant peaks are the West Elk mountains near Crested Butte and the large dark mountain is the Grand Mesa southeast of Grand Junction, which is a very scenic, flat topped mountain at 10,500’  I loaded the two short videos to YouTube. Hope you enjoy the flight as much as I did.

 

Cheers,

Jay Scheevel, Quickie Tri-Q2 N8WQ, 126 hours.

 

https://youtu.be/pxZejWwnXdU

https://youtu.be/dVV1EtykKIE

 


Re: Your Opinion

Richard Thomson
 

It wasn't on my 0200, it was a club Cherokee with a Lycoming, but it taught me a lesson that sticks in the mind for the future reference. :-Br

Br

RichT

On 04/01/2021 10:47, Bill Allen wrote:
Hi Rich - what engine do you have?  If it rich-cuts at idle, it should be possible to alter the setup so that it doesn’t....

Bill

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 11:35, Richard Thomson <richard@...> wrote:

 Thanks Bill, that is some interesting information to consider.

    The reason I select carb heat cold on late final is not damage to the engine but Rich Cut, and even then that is not a problem if you are landing, but on T&G's and on short fields can be a decider if you end up in the hedge ( or at Henstridge in the fence or girders), so I my norm is Carb Heat Cold on late final and a gentle cycle of the throttle to check its still there.

    Br

    RichT.


On 04/01/2021 08:13, Bill Allen wrote:

Hi Kieth,

You wrote: <<  I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist. >>r

Joel Ventura did quite a detailed article on Prist etc here: 


Bill

Note: Prist wont stop carb ice, which comes out of the atmosphere. Prist deals with water already in suspension within the fuel. 

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 03:58, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
Hi again,
All your comments, experiences and knowledge no doubt turned out to be a real education.  I don’t know about y’all but icing is normally not a discussion item.  I’m glad I took the chance to post the article.  Learned more than I thought I would.  And thank you all for “Your Opinions”
 
I must admit I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist.  I did actually use it in the Quickie for a time.  Reckon it did ok..that was several years ago.  My Q does not have carb heat nor does the carb have access to outside air, only hot air off the engine and is why the interest in the Teflon coating.  The carb on the newer Onan sets higher so to accommodate a new heat box I would need to make a new cowl bump....like that was gonna happen!  Not surprised no one had much to say about it.  
 
Like Jay I’m sure ice will form Teflon or not but I’ve never used a Teflon coated anything that anything would stick to it.  I once froze water in both a steel pan and a Teflon one.  Guess which one the ice slid out of.  The steel pan had ice remnants sticking to it after most was chipped out.  Yeah, pretty unscientific but....  Think about your plastic ice server bucket when guest come over, the ice sticks to everything even fingers.  At least modern technology has provided us with some options.

Thanks again,
Keith

Please note: message attached

From: "Mike Dwyer " <q200pilot@...>
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 17:00:40 -0500



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Re: Q-Tour Corbin Geiser Q-200 - This Saturday January 9, 9:00 #Q-Tour

Corbin
 

Thanks Sam and Brian.  I don't have anywhere near the knowledge all of you have but I can at least show and tell what I know.  See ya Saturday 9am CST.

--

Corbin 
N33QR


Re: Your Opinion

Bill Allen
 

Hi Rich - what engine do you have?  If it rich-cuts at idle, it should be possible to alter the setup so that it doesn’t....

Bill

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 11:35, Richard Thomson <richard@...> wrote:

 Thanks Bill, that is some interesting information to consider.

    The reason I select carb heat cold on late final is not damage to the engine but Rich Cut, and even then that is not a problem if you are landing, but on T&G's and on short fields can be a decider if you end up in the hedge ( or at Henstridge in the fence or girders), so I my norm is Carb Heat Cold on late final and a gentle cycle of the throttle to check its still there.

    Br

    RichT.


On 04/01/2021 08:13, Bill Allen wrote:

Hi Kieth,

You wrote: <<  I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist. >>r

Joel Ventura did quite a detailed article on Prist etc here: 


Bill

Note: Prist wont stop carb ice, which comes out of the atmosphere. Prist deals with water already in suspension within the fuel. 

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 03:58, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
Hi again,
All your comments, experiences and knowledge no doubt turned out to be a real education.  I don’t know about y’all but icing is normally not a discussion item.  I’m glad I took the chance to post the article.  Learned more than I thought I would.  And thank you all for “Your Opinions”
 
I must admit I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist.  I did actually use it in the Quickie for a time.  Reckon it did ok..that was several years ago.  My Q does not have carb heat nor does the carb have access to outside air, only hot air off the engine and is why the interest in the Teflon coating.  The carb on the newer Onan sets higher so to accommodate a new heat box I would need to make a new cowl bump....like that was gonna happen!  Not surprised no one had much to say about it.  
 
Like Jay I’m sure ice will form Teflon or not but I’ve never used a Teflon coated anything that anything would stick to it.  I once froze water in both a steel pan and a Teflon one.  Guess which one the ice slid out of.  The steel pan had ice remnants sticking to it after most was chipped out.  Yeah, pretty unscientific but....  Think about your plastic ice server bucket when guest come over, the ice sticks to everything even fingers.  At least modern technology has provided us with some options.

Thanks again,
Keith

Please note: message attached

From: "Mike Dwyer " <q200pilot@...>
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 17:00:40 -0500



--

--


Re: Your Opinion

Richard Thomson
 

 Thanks Bill, that is some interesting information to consider.

    The reason I select carb heat cold on late final is not damage to the engine but Rich Cut, and even then that is not a problem if you are landing, but on T&G's and on short fields can be a decider if you end up in the hedge ( or at Henstridge in the fence or girders), so I my norm is Carb Heat Cold on late final and a gentle cycle of the throttle to check its still there.

    Br

    RichT.


On 04/01/2021 08:13, Bill Allen wrote:

Hi Kieth,

You wrote: <<  I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist. >>r

Joel Ventura did quite a detailed article on Prist etc here: 


Bill

Note: Prist wont stop carb ice, which comes out of the atmosphere. Prist deals with water already in suspension within the fuel. 

On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 03:58, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
Hi again,
All your comments, experiences and knowledge no doubt turned out to be a real education.  I don’t know about y’all but icing is normally not a discussion item.  I’m glad I took the chance to post the article.  Learned more than I thought I would.  And thank you all for “Your Opinions”
 
I must admit I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist.  I did actually use it in the Quickie for a time.  Reckon it did ok..that was several years ago.  My Q does not have carb heat nor does the carb have access to outside air, only hot air off the engine and is why the interest in the Teflon coating.  The carb on the newer Onan sets higher so to accommodate a new heat box I would need to make a new cowl bump....like that was gonna happen!  Not surprised no one had much to say about it.  
 
Like Jay I’m sure ice will form Teflon or not but I’ve never used a Teflon coated anything that anything would stick to it.  I once froze water in both a steel pan and a Teflon one.  Guess which one the ice slid out of.  The steel pan had ice remnants sticking to it after most was chipped out.  Yeah, pretty unscientific but....  Think about your plastic ice server bucket when guest come over, the ice sticks to everything even fingers.  At least modern technology has provided us with some options.

Thanks again,
Keith

Please note: message attached

From: "Mike Dwyer " <q200pilot@...>
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 17:00:40 -0500



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