|
Re: Axle Removal Problems
Anthony, I might not understand because wouldn't using the axle to try and tap the pusher rod back out do the same as you describe?
-- Corbin N121CG
|
|
|
|
Re: Axle Removal Problems
Thanks, Mike. I believe my pusher rod made it past the space and is about halfway through the wheel. But I follow what you are saying otherwise.
-- Corbin N121CG
|
|
|
|
Re: Axle Removal Problems
Anthony P
If the others' suggestions for gentle coaxing have not worked, try a short length (1") of hose or PVC with similar O.D. to your axle and place that over your smaller diameter drift. It will work as a centering jig during your quick and lite taps.
-- Q2 N86KL
|
|
|
|
Re: Axle Removal Problems
Mike Dwyer
This is challenging to word properly. As the shorter steel tube is being pushed into place when it gets to a spacer, you have to hold upward pressure on the tire, otherwise as the steel shaft is going in and hits the end of the spacer it falls and jams. Look down either steel tube and if they are not lined up, then do what it takes to line them up. Also, in the future, put a campher(sp) on the end of the steel tubes so it self corrects the alignment. Also, I carry in my onboard tool bag the short axle made out of AL so that I can do tire work anywhere that I fly to. I carry this short axle and a spare inner-tube. I don't see a need to carry a whole tire! Mike Dwyer YouTube Videos: https://www.youtube.com/user/FlyMeAirplane/playlists Q200 Website: http://goo.gl/V8IrJF
I’ve always had a bit of a headache removing the axle when needing to remove the tire. In one of the pics below, the darker steel rod is what I use to slide in and tap out the axle (which is the other pic). The axle will easily pull out from the position in the pic. However, the rod I use to tap out the axle is stuck and won’t move back out or further in.
|
|
|
|
Re: Axle Removal Problems
Thanks, Anthony, that's another good idea. I am worried I wouldn't be able to make certain I would be impacting in the dead center of the stuck rod since it is halfway through the wheel and hard to see one something is inserted. But with a long drift pin, it might be possible.
-- Corbin N121CG
|
|
|
|
Re: Axle Removal Problems
Anthony P
I'm guessing the end of the steel pin has been slightly expanded/mushroomed. Very easy to do with what looks like hot rolled mild steel.
If you can cut the stuck steel rod without creating heat, and chamfer after cutting, and then move the wheel sideways enough so that everything drops out the bottom, I would do that. Save the composites from more loads and impacts. If you can't remove the wheel after the rod is cut, carefully use an air chisel or solid rivet gun to apply many, small impacts the the CENTER of stuck pin. You will probably need an intermediate drift pin for this, approx. 1/2 of the stuck pin diameter. This smaller diameter intermediate pin must be centered during the impacts or you'll just make the problem worse. Reducing the length of the stuck pin will reduce its mass and this will help it function less like its own bucking bar. -- Q2 N86KL
|
|
|
|
Re: Axle Removal Problems
Thanks Jerry and Paul. I can get to a pipe wrench and vise grips faster than a can of air so I’ll give that a go.
-- Corbin N121CG
|
|
|
|
Re: Axle Removal Problems
Jerry Marstall
Have you tried a pipe wrench to twist the rod?
|
|
|
|
Re: Axle Removal Problems
Paul Fisher
I'm guessing something is not aligned anymore which is why you can't drive it one way or the other. I would use a pair of vicegrip pliers to PULL it back out. Paul
I’ve always had a bit of a headache removing the axle when needing to remove the tire. In one of the pics below, the darker steel rod is what I use to slide in and tap out the axle (which is the other pic). The axle will easily pull out from the position in the pic. However, the rod I use to tap out the axle is stuck and won’t move back out or further in.
|
|
|
|
Re: Axle Removal Problems
Interesting idea! I’ll run and grab some to try!
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Corbin
On Dec 23, 2021, at 12:36 PM, Michael <dunningme@...> wrote:
-- Corbin N121CG
|
|
|
|
Re: Axle Removal Problems
Michael Dunning
Grab a can of "Dust Off" or whatever brand of canned air, turn the can upside down, and spray down your axle pusher-outer rod at the tip (try avoiding the axle, please). The liquid propellent is at about -30°F and will hopefully shrink the steel rod enough for you to knock it out of the axle.
My axle pusher-outer stick is made from a wooden dowel with a point on it; got stuck last time I used it, too. Luckily it was wood so I just ripped it out and made a new one. -- -MD #2827 (still thinking about planning on visualizing how to finish building)
|
|
|
|
Re: Axle Removal Problems
Dave Dugas
Hi Corbin
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I use a piece of PVC pipe instead of steel to tap the axle out. Perfect outer diameter and light weight too. It pushes out easily when reinstalling the wheel. I keep it in the Q2 in case of any tire issue. I changed to steel axles instead of the aluminum just FYI. Merry Christmas
|
|
|
|
Axle Removal Problems
Typos corrected: I’ve always had a bit of a headache removing the axle when needing to remove the tire. In one of the pics below, the darker steel rod is what I use to slide in and tap out the axle (which is the other pic). The axle will easily pull out from the position in the pic. However, the rod I use to tap out the axle is stuck and won’t move back out or further in.
I have the plane raised so there is no weight on the tire. I have tried tapping the axle back in to push back out the rod. I’ve reached the point of, “nothing should ever be tapped that hard” so I’m stumped. The tire and wheel spin freely. I’m tempted to cut the steel rod off as close to the wheel pant as I can just so I can get the tire/wheel out. Any ideas out there on a solution or something worth trying? Corbin -- Corbin N121CG
|
|
|
|
Re: 0200 Engine
Thanks Jon, I'm looking forward to the AV30. It looks like a good unit.
Merry Christmas to you, somewhere in the Southwest.
Jim
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> on behalf of Jon Finley <jd@...>
Sent: Thursday, December 23, 2021 4:16:54 AM To: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> Subject: Re: [Q-List] 0200 Engine Very nice update Jim! Also good to hear that your airplane won't suck anymore!! 😋😂
(Can't believe this juvenile group hasn't already thought of this.... 😉 ) A few years back my flying buddy did a bunch of testing (mostly aerobatic work) with the AV-30 for Bill Shuert when they were creating it (before selling to uAvionics). He was very impressed with the unit and even bought a couple of them for his airplanes. A long way of saying... I think it is a solid device. Jon Finley Somewhere in the Southwest flying an RV-4
|
|
|
|
Re: 0200 Engine
Jon Finley
Very nice update Jim! Also good to hear that your airplane won't suck anymore!! 😋😂
(Can't believe this juvenile group hasn't already thought of this.... 😉 ) A few years back my flying buddy did a bunch of testing (mostly aerobatic work) with the AV-30 for Bill Shuert when they were creating it (before selling to uAvionics). He was very impressed with the unit and even bought a couple of them for his airplanes. A long way of saying... I think it is a solid device. Jon Finley Somewhere in the Southwest flying an RV-4
|
|
|
|
Re: 0200 Engine
Jerry Marstall
I believe Sam has over 2000hrs
On Tue, Dec 21, 2021, 10:31 PM Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Re: 0200 Engine
Mike Dwyer
Hey Jim, that's nearly 13 times around the world. You got the high time award! The AV30 looks nice, and at the price $1100? After rebate is killer. Fly Safe, Mike Dwyer Q200 with only 1400 hours.
On Tue, Dec 21, 2021, 9:37 PM Jim Patillo <Logistics_engineering@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Re: 0200 Engine
Kevin I am putting in two AV30’s (with wifi). Have they fixed the drift problem in the DH yet? The two units combined supposedly equate to an EFIS without tearing your panel apart. I plan to use the 1st one as an AI and the
other as a DG but as you know, they both have optional screens. It would be nice if UA could come up with a glide slope. Maybe it's in the works. 😊
Jim
N46JP Q200
I now have 1822 hours on my Q which equates to roughly 310,000 miles. I fly weekly and she still runs fast and steady.
|
|
|
|
Re: 0200 Engine
I saw that guy on twitter cut a pipe, stuff it with a cucumber, cut it smooth to the pipe and dollop JB Weld over the end. Looked like it might meet AC 43.13.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Hello Jim: Glad to see you moving into the modern era. Have you settled on any particular AHRS brand for your upgrade? Phil Lankford
On Dec 20, 2021, at 5:54 PM, Jim Patillo <Logistics_engineering@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Re: 0200 Engine
Thanks for the input guys. I found a new one at Wentworth for 20 bucks.
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> on behalf of Bruce Crain <jcrain2@...>
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2021 5:57:51 AM To: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> Subject: Re: [Q-List] 0200 Engine I had not thought of this fix Rich. Good advice!
Bruce
---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Richard Thomson" <richard@...> To: main@Q-List.groups.io Subject: Re: [Q-List] 0200 Engine Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2021 09:52:43 +0000 Hi Jim There is an oil gallery on the face that is about 1/8th inch diameter. I used some PRC on an 1/8 countersink rivet to seal it off. had no leaks on my plate at all. Rich T On 21/12/2021 03:45, Bruce Crain wrote:
Say Jim an A and P used a “wicking lock tight” at the outside of the crank case halves in the split. I had not been able to get this area to seal the oil seep.
|
|
|