Date   

Re: reflexor

MartinErni@...
 

Peter,
I am will Al, you need a reflexor. Every successfully flying Q or
dragonfly that I HAVE SEEN HAS ONE. I guess everyone flying could be wrong.

Earnest Martin
750 hrs TRIQ200


Re: Oil Slick

DorotheaKeats and ChrisWalterson <dkeats@...>
 

Dave--------- You can use chemical wash from a body shop, but one
thing that works well is dish soap and water. Does a very good job and
should always be used. If a chemical wash, is used over a foam area,
such as a wing , will enter the little holes and cause delamination. I
would stay with the soap and warm water. Do it a few times .-----------
Canada Chris


Re: Earl's Oil filter mounts

B & I Baerg <brirbrg@...>
 

David Chalmers wrote:

Peter, I took a look at the picture at
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~earls/earls48.jpg - I know what you mean by
die-cast now. My fitting does not look like that. Thanks for the warning
though.

I'm still hoping someone knows what the terminal is for on my oil cooler. If
it's not obvious to someone then I will need to start dismantling things to
find out who made it.

David Chalmers
TriQ200 N4016G
Redmond, WA
David:
I have seen remote filter adapters similar to what you are talking about.The
terminal on those was used for a ground signal, which is connected to a warning
light to indicate when the pressure bypass is activated, indicating a plugged
filter. Yours might be one of them........but don't know how one would activate
it. I think the only way is to take it apart and find out exactly what it is.
Brad
Tri Q CGTCA


Re: Oil cooler terminal?

Everett T Starnes <n1victor@...>
 

For Dave Richardson,
Don't forget to put a grounding strap on the plane somewhere, and go to
an earth ground before you start painting. There's a lot of static
electricity built up on a plastic plane just wiping it down getting it
ready to spray, and the ground strap will dissipate it (static)and allow
the paint to lay down and not draw little fuzzies to it that are floating
around in the paint booth
See you at Mattoon!
Bud Starnes, Q200, N1V (under construction)
5114 Hartman Rd.
Mt. Vernon, IN 47620
812.985.2527
n1victor@juno.com


Re: Third Midwest Canard Fly-in

Everett T Starnes <n1victor@...>
 

Keith,
Lest I run into hell or high water I will be there with two!!!

Me, too! And as you well know, we have plenty of water here, also, and I
recollect that I drove through a lot of it the last two times on the way
to Mattoon.

Hope to see you there!!

Bud Starnes, Q200, N1V (under construction)
5114 Hartman Rd.
Mt. Vernon, IN 47620
812.985.2527
n1victor@juno.com


Re: reflexor

Peter Harris <peterjfharris@...>
 

< After all the advice you have gotten on the subject, I think it would be a good idea to put it at the top of the list of things to do. How do
you figure that you have had no need for it before....?

You need one now.>

Al
I need one now until I fix the jammed trim adjuster spindle and that is an early priority , after I finish fixing the canard.
After installing and setting up the EFI and test flights I will look at the reflexor.
Peter H
Peter H




Al Kittleson
"Unfrozen Caveman Pilot"
Q200




On Sat, 18 May 2002 18:06:34 +1000 "Peter Harris"
<peterjfharris@bigpond.com> writes:
Paul F,Dave T, Dave G, Pat P , Al K , The Bruce , and James P

Thank you all for a new insight into my Q . Nicely built by the
Mollenhauer Bros. it was first of type certified here in '89 and is
an award winner . I have used it since '91and during recent flight
testing of the Norton rotary installation over the past two years I
have survived three engine stoppages for installation glitches ,no
fault of the engine . The last broke the canard .
During these experiences I have decided my plans built ergonomics
does not suit me . Those who can manage the trim with the left hand
have much longer arms than me , but the most important thing I have
learned from your recent advice is that there is too much friction
on my trim wheel spindle and that would almost eliminate the problem
.By simply releasing the friction control the trim would follow the
stick and would eliminate the fight (fright ) with the spring and
this much I could probably do left handed.If the trim was not then
reset to glide the only load on the way down would be aerodynamic
and easy to manage given the sparrow strainers OK.
Full spring load is manageable but a sweat under these conditions
especially if unexpected.
It explains also why my Q builder substituted a softer spring in the
forward position because when the preload is lost the sudden
increase in stick pressure is alarming if not expected or understood
properly .He had trouble flaring to land and advised me to set
excess aft trim and hold it forward as a precaution .
When I bought VH ONQ ( # ONE Quickie) I replaced the spring as per
plans and learned to manage all situations but was NOT happy with
the recent engine- fail - retrim case .
I have read through the plans and there is no reference to the need
for attention to friction on the spindle and given we are expecting
the springs to turn a 0.375" OD tube in the plain phenolic bearings
by winding and unwinding a cord with a turning moment of only 0.187"
it is not surprising some don't turn freely .Perhaps there are
others in need of adjustment .Obviously it can easily be tested on
the ground and this is an important issue for new builders .
The plans make also no mention of pre loading the springs. A lack of
preload , coupled with excess friction would introduce the fight
with the spring earlier in the action .
After I get the Q back on it's wheels I will fix the spindle
friction problem and the ergonomics will be better but still open to
further improvement .It will be easy to move the starter switch to
the left hand .
Thanks Pat for the description of the glider trim/ spring operation
. Like all good designs it is simple and is one finger operated from
the stick itself , but not electric . I will look at the possibility
of adapting it to my Q.
I hear all the good advice to fit a reflexor but I had no need for
it before (except in default for the spindle friction problem) and
want to get the prime systems right before adding any more.Then I
will go into it.
I very much appreciate your help. This has been a big outcome for my
Q and a surprise that something like this could be overlooked in my
case for so long by so many different pilots .
Peter H


________________________________________________________________
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Re: reflexor

Pat Panzera <panzera@...>
 

kittleson1@juno.com wrote:

After all the advice you have gotten on the subject, I think it would be
a good idea to put it at the top of the list of things to do. How do
you figure that you have had no need for it before....?

You need one now.
For what it's worth, I concur.

Pat


reflexor

kittleson1@...
 

Peter,

I'm kind of scratching my head over this one: "I hear all the good
advice to fit a reflexor but I had no need for it before (except in
default for the spindle friction problem) and want to get the prime
systems right before adding any more.Then I will go into it. I very much
appreciate your help."

After all the advice you have gotten on the subject, I think it would be
a good idea to put it at the top of the list of things to do. How do
you figure that you have had no need for it before....?

You need one now.



Al Kittleson
"Unfrozen Caveman Pilot"
Q200




On Sat, 18 May 2002 18:06:34 +1000 "Peter Harris"
<peterjfharris@bigpond.com> writes:
Paul F,Dave T, Dave G, Pat P , Al K , The Bruce , and James P

Thank you all for a new insight into my Q . Nicely built by the
Mollenhauer Bros. it was first of type certified here in '89 and is
an award winner . I have used it since '91and during recent flight
testing of the Norton rotary installation over the past two years I
have survived three engine stoppages for installation glitches ,no
fault of the engine . The last broke the canard .
During these experiences I have decided my plans built ergonomics
does not suit me . Those who can manage the trim with the left hand
have much longer arms than me , but the most important thing I have
learned from your recent advice is that there is too much friction
on my trim wheel spindle and that would almost eliminate the problem
.By simply releasing the friction control the trim would follow the
stick and would eliminate the fight (fright ) with the spring and
this much I could probably do left handed.If the trim was not then
reset to glide the only load on the way down would be aerodynamic
and easy to manage given the sparrow strainers OK.
Full spring load is manageable but a sweat under these conditions
especially if unexpected.
It explains also why my Q builder substituted a softer spring in the
forward position because when the preload is lost the sudden
increase in stick pressure is alarming if not expected or understood
properly .He had trouble flaring to land and advised me to set
excess aft trim and hold it forward as a precaution .
When I bought VH ONQ ( # ONE Quickie) I replaced the spring as per
plans and learned to manage all situations but was NOT happy with
the recent engine- fail - retrim case .
I have read through the plans and there is no reference to the need
for attention to friction on the spindle and given we are expecting
the springs to turn a 0.375" OD tube in the plain phenolic bearings
by winding and unwinding a cord with a turning moment of only 0.187"
it is not surprising some don't turn freely .Perhaps there are
others in need of adjustment .Obviously it can easily be tested on
the ground and this is an important issue for new builders .
The plans make also no mention of pre loading the springs. A lack of
preload , coupled with excess friction would introduce the fight
with the spring earlier in the action .
After I get the Q back on it's wheels I will fix the spindle
friction problem and the ergonomics will be better but still open to
further improvement .It will be easy to move the starter switch to
the left hand .
Thanks Pat for the description of the glider trim/ spring operation
. Like all good designs it is simple and is one finger operated from
the stick itself , but not electric . I will look at the possibility
of adapting it to my Q.
I hear all the good advice to fit a reflexor but I had no need for
it before (except in default for the spindle friction problem) and
want to get the prime systems right before adding any more.Then I
will go into it.
I very much appreciate your help. This has been a big outcome for my
Q and a surprise that something like this could be overlooked in my
case for so long by so many different pilots .
Peter H


________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.


Re: Earl's Oil filter mounts

Hot Wings
 

In a message dated 5/21/02 12:59:45 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
David@ChalmersFamily.com writes:


I'm still hoping someone knows what the terminal is for on my oil cooler. If
it's not obvious to someone then I will need to start dismantling things to
find out who made it.
Can you post a pic of it?

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Leon McAtee
Q-2/turbo VW Rabbit............Q-1 1/2 VW
Looking for an Aeronca C-3 and/or drawings


Re: Test 2

j.galletti@...
 

All:
Thanks for the replys to my 2 "Test" e-Mails. Turns
out that when I turned on a new e-Mail account for my 10
year old son, and used the parental lock outs, I
accidentally locked my account and not his. Live and
learn.

Joe Galletti





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Q-LIST-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

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Re: Earl's Oil filter mounts

David Chalmers <David@...>
 

Peter, I took a look at the picture at
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~earls/earls48.jpg - I know what you mean by
die-cast now. My fitting does not look like that. Thanks for the warning
though.

I'm still hoping someone knows what the terminal is for on my oil cooler. If
it's not obvious to someone then I will need to start dismantling things to
find out who made it.

David Chalmers
TriQ200 N4016G
Redmond, WA

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Harris [mailto:peterjfharris@bigpond.com]
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 10:45 PM
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Q-LIST] Earl's Oil filter mounts


Earl's Oil CoolersDavid ,
Second attempt to send this page showing the oil filter mount
like the one that failed .
If you have 200 hrs on yours it must be OK but check the
thread fit on the engine spigot .
Peter H
EARL'S TEMPA-CURETM OIL COOLERS

--------------------------------------------------------------
------------------
Lightweight Aluminium Oil Coolers from Earl's
Performance offer supremely efficient cooling for Engine,
Transmission, Fuel and Differential. Used by many major
Racing Teams they also protect Street cars, Motorcycles and
Industrial machinery.
All Earl's coolers are finished in "battleship grey",
but a can of spray paint can soon fix that!

There are four widths available:


1.. 7" (180mm)
2.. 9 1/4" (235mm)
3.. 12" (302mm) and,
4.. 13 3/4" (350mm).
Heights range from 2" (50mm) to 18 1/2" (460mm), (7 to
60 rows). All are 2" (50mm) thick through. All are fitted
with Male AN threads to accept Earl's Hose Ends and Braided
hose, they may also be used with rubber hose and suitable hose ends.

Earl's Performance sell suitable mounting clamps and
brackets to assist in locating Earl's Oil Coolers safely and
securely.

Earl's Oil Coolers feature multiple oil passages
separated by convoluted finning for high flow rates and very
rapid temperature drop.

Click Image For Enlargement

Earl's Performance sells special By-Pass and Sandwich
adaptors, as well as remote Oil Filter mounting brackets to
suit most vehicles. Sandwich adaptors are mounted between
motor and original filter and contain in - out ports to feed
an oil cooler. Bypass adaptors replace the original filter
and allow a remotely mounted filter to be used - and if
desired, an oil cooler as well.

Please call us for advice on your particular application.


--------------------------------------------------------------
------------------



Return to Main Page






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Earl's Oil filter mounts

Peter Harris <peterjfharris@...>
 

Earl's Oil CoolersDavid ,
Second attempt to send this page showing the oil filter mount like the one that failed .
If you have 200 hrs on yours it must be OK but check the thread fit on the engine spigot .
Peter H
EARL'S TEMPA-CURETM OIL COOLERS

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lightweight Aluminium Oil Coolers from Earl's Performance offer supremely efficient cooling for Engine, Transmission, Fuel and Differential. Used by many major Racing Teams they also protect Street cars, Motorcycles and Industrial machinery.
All Earl's coolers are finished in "battleship grey", but a can of spray paint can soon fix that!

There are four widths available:


1.. 7" (180mm)
2.. 9 1/4" (235mm)
3.. 12" (302mm) and,
4.. 13 3/4" (350mm).
Heights range from 2" (50mm) to 18 1/2" (460mm), (7 to 60 rows). All are 2" (50mm) thick through. All are fitted with Male AN threads to accept Earl's Hose Ends and Braided hose, they may also be used with rubber hose and suitable hose ends.

Earl's Performance sell suitable mounting clamps and brackets to assist in locating Earl's Oil Coolers safely and securely.

Earl's Oil Coolers feature multiple oil passages separated by convoluted finning for high flow rates and very rapid temperature drop.

Click Image For Enlargement

Earl's Performance sells special By-Pass and Sandwich adaptors, as well as remote Oil Filter mounting brackets to suit most vehicles. Sandwich adaptors are mounted between motor and original filter and contain in - out ports to feed an oil cooler. Bypass adaptors replace the original filter and allow a remotely mounted filter to be used - and if desired, an oil cooler as well.

Please call us for advice on your particular application.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Return to Main Page


Oil filter fitting failure may be this product

Peter Harris <peterjfharris@...>
 

Earl's Oil CoolersDavid C
The product looks like this
Peter H
EARL'S TEMPA-CURETM OIL COOLERS

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lightweight Aluminium Oil Coolers from Earl's Performance offer supremely efficient cooling for Engine, Transmission, Fuel and Differential. Used by many major Racing Teams they also protect Street cars, Motorcycles and Industrial machinery.
All Earl's coolers are finished in "battleship grey", but a can of spray paint can soon fix that!

There are four widths available:


1.. 7" (180mm)
2.. 9 1/4" (235mm)
3.. 12" (302mm) and,
4.. 13 3/4" (350mm).
Heights range from 2" (50mm) to 18 1/2" (460mm), (7 to 60 rows). All are 2" (50mm) thick through. All are fitted with Male AN threads to accept Earl's Hose Ends and Braided hose, they may also be used with rubber hose and suitable hose ends.

Earl's Performance sell suitable mounting clamps and brackets to assist in locating Earl's Oil Coolers safely and securely.

Earl's Oil Coolers feature multiple oil passages separated by convoluted finning for high flow rates and very rapid temperature drop.

Click Image For Enlargement

Earl's Performance sells special By-Pass and Sandwich adaptors, as well as remote Oil Filter mounting brackets to suit most vehicles. Sandwich adaptors are mounted between motor and original filter and contain in - out ports to feed an oil cooler. Bypass adaptors replace the original filter and allow a remotely mounted filter to be used - and if desired, an oil cooler as well.

Please call us for advice on your particular application.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Return to Main Page


Re: Oil cooler terminal?

Peter Harris <peterjfharris@...>
 

John ,
The blow out occurred at the engine fitment and the part was definitely faulty ie thread only half engaged on the engine spigot .
Peter H

----- Original Message -----
From: jtenhave@mets.mq.edu.au
To: 'Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com'
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 9:08 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Oil cooler terminal?


Peter,

a couple of thoughts -

is there anywhere else in the circuit that you can mount the filter so that
it is subjected to lower pressures? Secondly, is it possible to substitute
steel fittings for the alloy parts?

John

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Harris [SMTP:peterjfharris@bigpond.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 8:18 AM
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Oil cooler terminal?

Thanks John ,
The oil filter fittings marketed here by Earls look exactly the same as the
fitting that failed .
One ( female) fitting takes the place of the oil filter by screwing onto
the engine oil filter mount and provides an inlet and outlet connection..
This is the one that failed .The second fitting is similar but male and is
used to remote mount the oil filter.
Peter H
----- Original Message -----
From: jtenhave@mets.mq.edu.au
To: 'Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com'
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 6:23 PM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Oil cooler terminal?


Peter,

Earls make parts which match your description.

www.earls.com

John

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Harris [SMTP:peterjfharris@bigpond.com]
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 4:13 PM
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Oil cooler terminal?

David
I am thinking of an aluminium casting purchased from auto aftermarket parts
shop which is screwed onto the engine in place of the oil filter .
A hose goes from this to the oil cooler , then to the oil filter which is
mounted somewhere else , then back to this fitting for return oil to the
sump.
The fitting internal thread was faulty and oil pressure was enough to blow
it off .
Peter H
----- Original Message -----
From: David Chalmers
To: 'Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com'
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 9:10 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Oil cooler terminal?



Peter, I'm not sure I'd know what a die-cast fitting looked like. The
fittings that screw into the cooler on each side are blue and look like
regular aluminium AN fittings. The large end of the fitting which screws
into the cooler is about 1.5" diameter - the small side that attaches to
the
hose is about 3/4" diameter.

David Chalmers
TriQ200 4016G
Redmond, WA

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Harris [mailto:peterjfharris@bigpond.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 2:36 PM
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Oil cooler terminal?


David ,
Unrelated to the terminal . The fittings . Are they Aluminium die cast ? A
Subaru conversion here replaced his oil filter with such a fitting to run
an
oil cooler and remote filter . The diecast thread failed under oil pressure
and the fitting was blown off , he lost all oil and seized the motor .
I am waiting for a brand name but the fittings were branded "made in the
USA" ( unlikely I would think )
Peter H
----- Original Message -----
From: David Chalmers
To: 'Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com'
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 8:30 PM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Oil cooler terminal?



I got my engine as a package from a previous builder and it has a remote
oil
cooler. On the back of the cooler is a single terminal stud which seems to
be switched to ground sometimes. I dutifully wired this to a light on the
instrument panel - but I have no idea what it's for. Anyone know what it's
telling me? High temperature? Low temperature? Internal bypass open? Chip
detector? I can't see what make it is without some disassembly but I am
assuming it must be a common feature of oil coolers.

Dave Chalmers
Redmond, WA
TriQ200 N4016G


-----Original Message-----
From: GJZIM@aol.com [mailto:GJZIM@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 9:39 AM
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Elevator springs


My Q has been flying since 89 and have had no problems with
the plans built
system once I had my sparrow strainers adjusted properly. I
do most of my
trimming with the reflexor. GJZ





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Test 2

Jim Patillo
 


test

Jim Patillo
 

Regards,
Logistics Engineering Inc.
James R. Patillo
President


Test 2

Joseph Galletti <j.galletti@...>
 

I have not received e-mail from this list since 17 May 02. Has there been
any message traffic, or do I have an e-mail problem?

Joe Galletti


Re: Oil cooler terminal?

jtenhave@mets.mq.edu.au <jtenhave@...>
 

Peter,

a couple of thoughts -

is there anywhere else in the circuit that you can mount the filter so that
it is subjected to lower pressures? Secondly, is it possible to substitute
steel fittings for the alloy parts?

John

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Harris [SMTP:peterjfharris@bigpond.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 8:18 AM
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Oil cooler terminal?

Thanks John ,
The oil filter fittings marketed here by Earls look exactly the same as the
fitting that failed .
One ( female) fitting takes the place of the oil filter by screwing onto
the engine oil filter mount and provides an inlet and outlet connection..
This is the one that failed .The second fitting is similar but male and is
used to remote mount the oil filter.
Peter H
----- Original Message -----
From: jtenhave@mets.mq.edu.au
To: 'Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com'
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 6:23 PM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Oil cooler terminal?


Peter,

Earls make parts which match your description.

www.earls.com

John

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Harris [SMTP:peterjfharris@bigpond.com]
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 4:13 PM
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Oil cooler terminal?

David
I am thinking of an aluminium casting purchased from auto aftermarket parts
shop which is screwed onto the engine in place of the oil filter .
A hose goes from this to the oil cooler , then to the oil filter which is
mounted somewhere else , then back to this fitting for return oil to the
sump.
The fitting internal thread was faulty and oil pressure was enough to blow
it off .
Peter H
----- Original Message -----
From: David Chalmers
To: 'Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com'
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 9:10 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Oil cooler terminal?



Peter, I'm not sure I'd know what a die-cast fitting looked like. The
fittings that screw into the cooler on each side are blue and look like
regular aluminium AN fittings. The large end of the fitting which screws
into the cooler is about 1.5" diameter - the small side that attaches to
the
hose is about 3/4" diameter.

David Chalmers
TriQ200 4016G
Redmond, WA

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Harris [mailto:peterjfharris@bigpond.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 2:36 PM
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Oil cooler terminal?


David ,
Unrelated to the terminal . The fittings . Are they Aluminium die cast ? A
Subaru conversion here replaced his oil filter with such a fitting to run
an
oil cooler and remote filter . The diecast thread failed under oil pressure
and the fitting was blown off , he lost all oil and seized the motor .
I am waiting for a brand name but the fittings were branded "made in the
USA" ( unlikely I would think )
Peter H
----- Original Message -----
From: David Chalmers
To: 'Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com'
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 8:30 PM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Oil cooler terminal?



I got my engine as a package from a previous builder and it has a remote
oil
cooler. On the back of the cooler is a single terminal stud which seems to
be switched to ground sometimes. I dutifully wired this to a light on the
instrument panel - but I have no idea what it's for. Anyone know what it's
telling me? High temperature? Low temperature? Internal bypass open? Chip
detector? I can't see what make it is without some disassembly but I am
assuming it must be a common feature of oil coolers.

Dave Chalmers
Redmond, WA
TriQ200 N4016G


-----Original Message-----
From: GJZIM@aol.com [mailto:GJZIM@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 9:39 AM
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Elevator springs


My Q has been flying since 89 and have had no problems with
the plans built
system once I had my sparrow strainers adjusted properly. I
do most of my
trimming with the reflexor. GJZ





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Re: Oil Slick

jtenhave@mets.mq.edu.au <jtenhave@...>
 

Dave,

if you can remove the cowling, Leon's suggestion of detergent is a good
starting point, and you can also use methylated spirits and heaps of paper
towels to blot the diluted oil up rather than trying to smear it all over
the show. Apply the detergent neat and let it sit for a while. If you can,
tip the cowl so the gung runs off rather than over the job. ( bit trickier
with a whole fuselage, let me tell you...)

Do not underestimate how important it is to get the surface chemically
clean before beginning the finishing process. light sanding after the
initial clean will also help your chances of exposing a good proportion of
"virgin" substrate which will give your primer surfacer the best chance to
hang on.

I would also spend some time at a top of the line body shop or a boat
builder if you have one nearby - they deal with this problem everyday - and
they know all the strokes ( literally!)

John

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Richardson [SMTP:dave@henningsoftware.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 4:25 AM
To: Q-LIST@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Q-LIST] Oil Slick

Perhaps you recall my bout with the bursting oil filter last year. Well,
my
lower cowl was installed at the time and some of the oil made its way onto
the outer surface of the cowling.

How can I clean / prepare the cowling for final fill and painting?

Thanks,

Dave




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Re: Fw: Elevator springs

Pat Panzera <panzera@...>
 

Peter Harris wrote:

Pat ,
That ties in with an idea I had as follows :
The push rod sides in a short tube which is welded to the bottom of the stick and slightly aft of centre .
Preload on the spring attachment at the other end to the torque tubes skews the rod to make it bind in this tube (like a slide adjusted G clamp.).
A thumb operated button in top of the stick applies pressure to the push rod forward of its retaining tube to relieve spring pressure and allow it to slide.
The further offset the trim , the more button pressure would be required . ??
Sounds like it'll work...
Just need to verify the geometry.

Pat