How about "QBAD" as in directive from the Quickie Builders Association. I'm thinking this would make it more of a list of community suggestions. Of course, you as manufacturer/owner would be

Calling them ADs is not a good idea because AD is a legal document and procedure which is not available to us. We should call them something different. For example, in the Light Sport industry,

Hi Guys,   I'd like to upgrade my nose gear leg to the heavy duty 1 1/4" style and am looking for a gear leg.  I have the new Aluminum fork and need just the gear leg.   I contacted Velocity to

Kevin, I have DC's leg off of his TriQ200, which has the phenolic washer next to the welded assembly attached with a bolt. So presumably the fork on his was at the top of the leg with the washers

I think it would be a good idea to have a comprehensive list in one place for this type of information. While not every plane is the same (each needs it's own custom written inspection list) there

I'll ADd this to the website. Does anyone else have any? Perhaps we should create a list for the single seaters as well? Let me know. Also just wondering if we should call these suggested

FedXhaust of course! Was there any question! Bruce Did you ship that UPS or FedX? jcrain2@... wrote: ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping

Richard, It is also important to set the angle of the nose gear tube at the bottom to the correct incidence. It helps to keep shimmy from happening if you make the bottom of the tube after the curve

Hey Guys, I think we should put together on a web site somewhere a list of AD notes for the rest of the builder/ flyer community. I'd like to contribute a couple: Q-AD# 1 Type Q: Q200 TT: 800

Richard, I set the canard at 0° while building as per plans. I think putting the fork as low on its axle as possible is a help. Making the ground angle of incidence a bit more nose up. My washers are

Thanks Bruce. Kev, You have sent this once before but can't find the mail. Its for the HD leg, If I remember you suggested that the springs can go above or below to achive the right incidence on the

same here, Earnest

Did you ship that UPS or FedX? jcrain2@... wrote:

Hi Sammy! An A & P suggested I try the stainless lock nuts. They seem to have held their torque just fine. Will see in the future how they hold out. The crack was a spiral one about 1 1/2" long

Burce, you should be using brass nuts for the exhaust mount, not stainless. Was it crack, or a leaky gasket? Sam [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please note: message attached From: "viggenbuilder2" <richard@...> To: Q-LIST@... Subject: [Q-LIST] Tri Q Nose Leg Springs Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 20:29:49 -0000 Richard, I

Please note: message attached From: "Chris Rayner" <chris-rayner@...> To: <Q-LIST@...> Subject: [Q-LIST] Quiet on the front, but not under the cowlings.... Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010

Go BUTLER!

Richard, Which fork do you have. The original, or the new HD unit? Kevin Boddicker TriQ 200 N7868B 160 hrs Luana, IA.

Can any of the Tri Q guys remind me how the springs and washers go either side of the fork please ? Richard Thomson TriQ 200