Jon,   I do not have any photos of my process to acquire "straight" lines at the cowl/fusalage junction.  I created a straight edge on the cowl; then, wrapped the cowl edges with duct tape as a

Actually, when you really think about, skinning the cores does nothing. JMHO. If skinning were to actually help, the inside of the foam would have to move - to settle into a new position. I just

One other technique I used was to "skin" all of the foam blocks before cutting the cores out. The hard finish on the exterior of the blocks would cause issues getting the hot wire in and out, and as

I would not agree. If the table is not level the cut ends will not be square with the bottom edge and you will have to do some extra work to line up the cores on the jigging fixture. Take a couple

As far as the note that you can line up the eventual trim lines at the edge of the block, you have the option to do that, but you must do the same at both ends of the foam block. I'd use the whole

Yes, you are correct that the shape of the wing is altered doing this, but the core templates are shaped to compensate.

Dan, The height of the template level lines from the table should be the same. I recommend making two templates for the BL-100 elevator template. One oversized and the other to plans spec.

Never used it.

I think I get your meaning. Forget about the levelness of the table, it's practically irrelevant. - Weigh the block down so it can't move. - Slap the template on one end of the block and make

Thanks Paul, That helps. Again I don't envy the work you guys put in to build these things without the support of "the initiated." You managed to build beautiful flying aircraft, and the rest of us

Dan, As I recall (it’s been 25+ years!), yes, you put the “waterlines” at the same height above the table on the foam block before you cut them. Basically that makes the ends of the foam

This is a response to Rick Hole's OFFLIST message (Show below). Rick if you send an e-mail to Q-LIST_at_yahoogroups_dot_com it will be posted to the Q-list automagically. ;-) Thanks Rick, The

Thanks Charlie, I do understand all of that. My question is whether the template "level lines" need to be placed at the same distance verically above/below a predefined "water line" Let's say the

Thanks for the response Sam, I appreciate it. Not sure if my original question made any sense though. ;-) I'll try again. "Level Lines" - to me this means that you level a template on one end of the

Hey Sam, I noticed they have braided/reinforced Tygothane. Would that work any better than clear (except for sight gauge)? Bruce

Dan - if I recall, you square the TE of the block and you line up the templates with TE. That establishes the sweep for the LE. The lines on the templates must be level when you hot wire them and

I built a fake firewall out of 3/4" plywood and then glued 1/2 tongue depressor to the outside of the fake firewall. I then fit the cowl to the inside of the tongue depressors. Then I duct taped the

Hey Dan, In aircraft location Stations = distance from 0.0 (X) to item from nose to tail, Butt lines = Distance from centerline out toward wing tips (Y), Waterline = Distance in vertical from a

Hi G-BXOY has the top mounted flush filler, works great. Jims idea good too. Mine has a stand pipe directly below the filler cap with hole cut at top to work as standard standpipe (overflow) all

You've got to love QAC. . . I have been working with a set of LS1 templates and trying to figure out how they get lined up on the ends of the foam blocks. The LS1 instructions say to use the same