Larry: It appears you have a virus. Moderated status until it's fixed. Mike Perry

Jim, Glad to hear you got rid of the hot rod glass filters. The ratio is 30 square inches to 1 on filter area with the G3. Good to see you again and you are on the ride list. I am going to

OK, I have heard that some have installed an O235 in the Q200 and it worked out. Can any one give me any info on this? This DOES NOT mean that I am going to do this, but I wanted to know about how

Good Afternoon Charlie, I took your advise and finally bought Fram G3 fuel filters to replace my existing 1" glass ones. They were $3.50 ea. at Walmart. Over the years, the glass filters worked fine

Smooth Prime the new formula but several years on the market has UV blocker in it. _http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/09-28290.php_

UV damage only affects epoxy and foam the glass is unaffected. You can see the damage as the epoxy gets dull and powdery or flakes off the glass fabric. Look at the backs of fiberglass signs and

Some top coats have UV protection, even clear coats. I am working with PTI paints. CPP is approaching the equivalent of 10 years of UV impact under exposure to Florida weather (UV, temp, and rain

Mike, You really need to look at the specifications for the product. When my plane was painted (over 20 years ago!), I used a base coat clear coat system. In that case the UV barrier was in the

I recently painted my fuselage (only - the wings were alrady painted with a final color coat) with an ACS product called Smooth Prime, a UV filler / primer (part # 09-28290). My point is that this

Okay here is my 2 cents worth and many years of painting and composit work. As long as the top coat is opaque color you have UV protection and the glass will not break down. Remember all colors of

Quickieaircraft... Please post your name and experience signature at the end of each post. It helps us to understand who you are. Thanks. You said that paints are all the same... Maybe true, but we

Probably, Paul, for severe damage, anyway. My reading seems to indicate that UV protective properties of paint are very close to eachother for different paints, and that the protection really only

If the surface is primed and painted, but with no specific UV protection, would not any UV damage beneath the paint be made obvious by the paint surface dimpling and the glass weave showing

Thanks Jim, I passed the info on and added the link to the QBA website. Cheers, Dan Yager QBA Editor www.quickheads.com

N1711Q is well into that age, built in 1982. When working on damaged areas we sanding carefully to expose fiberglass in several areas. It looked very good. That's a single data point, but it falls

Quick rule of thumb: supporting a monoplane by the wingtips loads the wingspar by something roughly equivalent to a 2G load. You can verify this with some simple math, or a piece of balsa and some

In the last several days we ran solved issues of no-alternator and no-fuel-flow-indication. Those were wiring issues but did require pulling the engine. Today's engine test let us cross off the

Does anyone know if there is a decent way to inspect for UV damage once primer and finish is applied? UV damaged fiberglass is milky. One could pick an exposed area and sand down to the fiberglass.

The number I had in Arizona is no longer vaild. Try this: http://www.airheart-brakes.com Airheart Brake Products 3800 County Road 116, Hamel, MN 55340 | Toll Free: 800-328-2174 | Phone

Many years ago I left an unprimed piece of fiberglass in the Florida sun as a test. After a while the resin went away leaving the white glass on the surface. I assume the resin basically evaporated.