Also Sam my damage is on the LE between layers H and I. I read the article of your repair once and probably will be reviewing multiple times this week.

Thanks everyone for responding. I was thinking MAYBE I could inject but it sounds like removing the old glass is the way to go. I'm comfortable with the injection method but the other I may need some

Standard in the repair is a "100%" scarf of the original skins. So the idea is no thick hard edges..which then become stress risers, especially in compression. The 100% scarf repair is also depicted

Just to reinforce, what Sam has said. The upper skin and spar caps, both in compression when loaded, are more likely to fail than the bottom skin/spar, which are in tension. The things that keep the

And one last thing I wanted to mention. Way back when, we had a double fatality due to a bad wing repair. My memory is sketchy, but I think that one of the Quickie dealers had a broken wing due to

One more diagram while determining damage.

Nick, If you haven't already made your repair, consider doing a little more investigating work. One thing you can easily do is determine where your damage is in relation to the underlying structure.

I put my large-spike capacitor inside the airplane on the firewall (so low heat there). My cap is a bit of overkill at 47 Farad-40 V rating….. but, what isn’t overkill on my airplane, right? I

Mike As for aluminum electrolytic caps & temperatures ti pays to look at the specs from the manufacturer there are some that can take high temps. Also some Tant's tend to be "cherry bombs" from my

The B&C alternator is a permanent magnet variety, and doesn't have a field as such. They originally had a fuse on each leg of the alternator on its way to the regulator. I had a failure where one of

Some people have a "crowbar" on the regulator so if it starts putting out say 16 volts it shorts out and blows the alternator fuse. Maybe that's the DV14? 10uf Aluminum Electrolitic... They don't

Have a long avionics shopping list ahead of me and any savings help. At this point, I have 10% off on selected items. Anybody heard of good discounts on Dynon equipment? Have a long list of items to

After a few hours of tinkering with different CAD programs, settling in KiCAD, and learning how to create components, here is my first draft for my dual battery, B&C alternator and VPX setup. Here is

The following files and folders have been uploaded to the Files area of the main@Q-List.groups.io group. /Electrical Drawings and sketches/POWER_DISTRIBUTION0-11.dxf By: Sam

Probably don’t need to do that much designing, Robert. If your alternator and regulator are running, voltage will be system charging voltage at both batteries. If no alternator, then you can switch

Well it looks like there is good precedence for two identical batteries and it can be done, though with a few modifications. I will now go back and draw this all up in more detail, with your input and

Managed to go for a buzz and check fuel burn. Filled it up, went for a 1 hr flight at 135--140 MPH and 2900 rpm and 2 lbs boost.  Came back and refueled and put in put in 17 litres.  Little over 4

What I did on my very old Dragonfly with the EA81 was to use only one battery.  I choose to use a lawn tractor battery. It weighs 18 lbs is 325 Amp and is non venting. Roger Enns, a fellow builder

When you have an airplane that depends on electrical power to stay in the air, you have to make sure that if the alternator fails you can still get where you want to go. One of the things you need to

Fig 2 in the link looks quite similar in its basics to my drawing, considering I get my "low voltage" voice annunciation from my EFIS which then enables me to do the right battery and components