No sight glass ... Capacitive sender, here is the sender, the plate I have to mount and the plate I already fluxed in in the main tank ... -- Robert "TheFrisco" Schmid (408)

Are you going to put in the standard/plans sight tube? Or are you thinking of using a float or capacitance sender? Cheers, Jay

Where to put the header tank fuel sender? And please no need to tell me I don't need one, just where please 😉 -- Robert "TheFrisco" Schmid (408)

Hey! You don’t even need a pilot certificate! I’ll take a truck load!! Bruce

Hi Shaun, My angle of climb is measured by making a ratio of Vertical speed to horizontal speed (take the inverse tangent of this quantity and you get angle of climb). This can be done using

Same here, Bruce. Well, and obstacles. :) Corbin -- Corbin N121CG

Here is the latest release into the wild world of canard electric aircraft. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kQKYXweqpU Cheers, Jay

I just let my cht/egt and oil temps dictate my climb speed. Ah’m a simple man. Bruce

I don’t have a pilot tube, but Jerry Marstall does 😉 Cheers, Jay

I think the general rule is bottom of the canard and outboard of the prop wash. Mine is on the left wing about 3 feet out from the fuselage wall. I have a mast with a sort of official looking pitot

Darn spell correct doesnt understand aviation lingo Pitot tube is what I'm asking about

I'm almost done redoing the wheel alignment and getting ready to glass it all. Next step will be to install the pilot tube. Is there a recommended spot that has been identified over the

Good to see some data like this Jay. Curious how you were determining the angle of climb? Any associated data for best rate of climb? Thanks, Shaun From: main@Q-List.groups.io

Thanks Dave, Did you get your new engine yet? Cheers, Jay

Not as scientific as you are Jay, but on takeoff I get to 100 mph and between 95 and 100 seems to be the best climb rate. Revmaster engine....solo. Dave D

I have been plotting my flight/performance data, almost continuously, since I started flying my plane in 2018. My Vx has changed from 87 mph IAS, when I did not have any wheel pants to what it is now,

Also Sam my damage is on the LE between layers H and I. I read the article of your repair once and probably will be reviewing multiple times this week.

Thanks everyone for responding. I was thinking MAYBE I could inject but it sounds like removing the old glass is the way to go. I'm comfortable with the injection method but the other I may need some

Standard in the repair is a "100%" scarf of the original skins. So the idea is no thick hard edges..which then become stress risers, especially in compression. The 100% scarf repair is also depicted

Just to reinforce, what Sam has said. The upper skin and spar caps, both in compression when loaded, are more likely to fail than the bottom skin/spar, which are in tension. The things that keep the