Date   

Cold WX Starting

Robert Justin
 

Has anyone used can type fuels to prime the engine? If yes, what was the result?


Re: Fuel supply questions

Tri-Q1 <rryan@...>
 

Peter are you converting your Q to an 0-200 ?

Ryan


--- In Q-LIST@..., "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris@b...>
wrote:

Hi, can anyone advise on two fuel supply questions:
1. Is gravity feed enough to run the 0-200 with no fuel pump?
2. What is a cheap but OK fuel check valve. Spruce list the Andair
rabge for about $50. Are there any OK alternatives?
Thanks,
Peter

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Fuel supply questions

Peter Harris <peterjfharris@...>
 

Yes Ryan LS1. Peter

----- Original Message -----
From: Tri-Q1
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 4:45 PM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Fuel supply questions


Peter, do you have the LS-1 canard?

Ryan

--- In Q-LIST@..., "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris@b...>
wrote:
>
> Yes Ryan. It was called a Q2-100 with the Norton. Now a Q-200 with
the Jabiru 3300.
> Peter
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tri-Q1
> To: Q-LIST@...
> Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 11:40 AM
> Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Fuel supply questions
>
>
> Peter are you converting your Q to an 0-200 ?
>
> Ryan
>
>
> --- In Q-LIST@..., "Peter Harris"
<peterjfharris@b...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi, can anyone advise on two fuel supply questions:
> > 1. Is gravity feed enough to run the 0-200 with no fuel pump?
> > 2. What is a cheap but OK fuel check valve. Spruce list the
Andair
> rabge for about $50. Are there any OK alternatives?
> > Thanks,
> > Peter
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Quickie Builders Association WEB site
> http://www.quickiebuilders.org
>
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
> a.. Visit your group "Q-LIST" on the web.
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
of Service.
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
>
>
>
>
>






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http://www.quickiebuilders.org





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Re: Fuel supply questions

Sam Hoskins <shoskins@...>
 

Using 3/8" lines has fared well for many of us. Also, minimizing the number
of fittings used will minimize the fuel's resistance to flow.

I think the MA3-SPA carb has an inlet pressure limitation of something like
6 PSI, so be careful with your mechanical pump. IMHO, lighten and simplicate
by ditching the mechanical pump. Then you'll get to save 50 bucks, too.

Sam



_____

From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...] On Behalf Of
Peter Harris
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 6:49 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Fuel supply questions



Thanks Sam . That is good news. Would that be a 5/16"feed or will 1/4" do
the job?
Jab are running a mech pump and an electric pump in series. Bad idea it
doubles the risk of a blockage by jammed valves and would cut off gravity
feed.
I was planning to keep the mech pump but run a gravity feed direct to the
carb with the pump in parallel. But would need a stop valve to prevent fuel
recirculating.
The Spruce listed Andair stop valve looks good but $50 seems a lot to pay?
Peter.

----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Hoskins
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2005 10:27 PM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Fuel supply questions


The answer to question #1: Absolutely.

#2. Depends on what you mean by "cheap" and "OK".

Sam Hoskins



_____

From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...] On Behalf Of
Peter Harris
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 6:23 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Fuel supply questions



Hi, can anyone advise on two fuel supply questions:
1. Is gravity feed enough to run the 0-200 with no fuel pump?
2. What is a cheap but OK fuel check valve. Spruce list the Andair
rabge
for about $50. Are there any OK alternatives?
Thanks,
Peter





Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






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Re: LS-1 Quickie Template - availability

Leon - C <leon@...>
 

Not me. David advertises his there some times. Most are just copies of
copies :-(

I'm getting kind of annoyed with some of the junk mass marketers on eBay
giving the aviation area a kind of border town flea market aroma. Seems to
dilute the value of the worthwhile wares offered by those not associated
with BRU ................................ "Bootleggers R Us"

I - may - advertise there again in the future.
================
Leon McAtee

----- Original Message -----
From: "rebeccaandtad_simpson" <rebeccaandtad_simpson@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 6:01 PM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: LS-1 Quickie Template - availability



Leon,
Are you the one selling the CDs on Ebay? I bought several CDs
including the Q series. Thought all were very well done. Wish the
News letter collection was available in the same price range.


Re: Fuel supply questions

Sam Hoskins <shoskins@...>
 

The answer to question #1: Absolutely.

#2. Depends on what you mean by "cheap" and "OK".

Sam Hoskins



_____

From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...] On Behalf Of
Peter Harris
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 6:23 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Fuel supply questions



Hi, can anyone advise on two fuel supply questions:
1. Is gravity feed enough to run the 0-200 with no fuel pump?
2. What is a cheap but OK fuel check valve. Spruce list the Andair rabge
for about $50. Are there any OK alternatives?
Thanks,
Peter





Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






_____

YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS



* Visit your group "Q-LIST <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST> "
on the web.

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Re: Fuel supply questions

Peter Harris <peterjfharris@...>
 

Thanks Mike . I have 5/16 from the header so It should work OK . If I keep the fuel pump in parallel Then I am covered . It might be better to quit the high mounted mech pump and use my vac pump mounted low.
Still thinking.
Peter

----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Dwyer
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Fuel supply questions


I'm operating with 1/4" fuel lines but have a straight downhill run to
the carb and am careful to keep my fuel lid sealed... I'd rather have
3/8 lines but I was flying for years before that became the standard...
20 years in the air and 1000 hours.
Mike Q200


Peter Harris wrote:
> Thanks Sam . That is good news. Would that be a 5/16"feed or will 1/4" do the job?
> Jab are running a mech pump and an electric pump in series. Bad idea it doubles the risk of a blockage by jammed valves and would cut off gravity feed.
> I was planning to keep the mech pump but run a gravity feed direct to the carb with the pump in parallel. But would need a stop valve to prevent fuel recirculating.
> The Spruce listed Andair stop valve looks good but $50 seems a lot to pay?
> Peter.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Sam Hoskins
> To: Q-LIST@...
> Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2005 10:27 PM
> Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Fuel supply questions
>
>
> The answer to question #1: Absolutely.
>
> #2. Depends on what you mean by "cheap" and "OK".
>
> Sam Hoskins
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...] On Behalf Of
> Peter Harris
> Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 6:23 AM
> To: Q-LIST@...
> Subject: [Q-LIST] Fuel supply questions
>
>
>
> Hi, can anyone advise on two fuel supply questions:
> 1. Is gravity feed enough to run the 0-200 with no fuel pump?
> 2. What is a cheap but OK fuel check valve. Spruce list the Andair rabge
> for about $50. Are there any OK alternatives?
> Thanks,
> Peter
>
>
>


Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Re: Fuel supply questions

Peter Harris <peterjfharris@...>
 

Yes Ryan. It was called a Q2-100 with the Norton. Now a Q-200 with the Jabiru 3300.
Peter

----- Original Message -----
From: Tri-Q1
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 11:40 AM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Fuel supply questions


Peter are you converting your Q to an 0-200 ?

Ryan


--- In Q-LIST@..., "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris@b...>
wrote:
>
> Hi, can anyone advise on two fuel supply questions:
> 1. Is gravity feed enough to run the 0-200 with no fuel pump?
> 2. What is a cheap but OK fuel check valve. Spruce list the Andair
rabge for about $50. Are there any OK alternatives?
> Thanks,
> Peter
>
>
>






Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





------------------------------------------------------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS

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------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Re: Fuel supply questions

Peter Harris <peterjfharris@...>
 

Yes . The mech pump is mounted so high it stops the gravity flow to the carb . That is why I will go direct. The only advantage of keeping the pump is to cover if the fuel vent gets blocked.The mech pump came with the engine. I will have to find the 50 bucks I guess.
Peter

<IMHO, lighten and simplicate
by ditching the mechanical pump. Then you'll get to save 50 bucks, too.

Sam>



_____

From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...] On Behalf Of
Peter Harris
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 6:49 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Fuel supply questions



Thanks Sam . That is good news. Would that be a 5/16"feed or will 1/4" do
the job?
Jab are running a mech pump and an electric pump in series. Bad idea it
doubles the risk of a blockage by jammed valves and would cut off gravity
feed.
I was planning to keep the mech pump but run a gravity feed direct to the
carb with the pump in parallel. But would need a stop valve to prevent fuel
recirculating.
The Spruce listed Andair stop valve looks good but $50 seems a lot to pay?
Peter.

----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Hoskins
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2005 10:27 PM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Fuel supply questions


The answer to question #1: Absolutely.

#2. Depends on what you mean by "cheap" and "OK".

Sam Hoskins



_____

From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...] On Behalf Of
Peter Harris
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 6:23 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Fuel supply questions



Hi, can anyone advise on two fuel supply questions:
1. Is gravity feed enough to run the 0-200 with no fuel pump?
2. What is a cheap but OK fuel check valve. Spruce list the Andair
rabge
for about $50. Are there any OK alternatives?
Thanks,
Peter





Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






_____

YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS



* Visit your group "Q-LIST <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST> "
on the web.

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_____







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Re: LS-1 Quickie Template - availability

REBECCA SIMPSON
 

Leon,
Are you the one selling the CDs on Ebay? I bought several CDs
including the Q series. Thought all were very well done. Wish the
News letter collection was available in the same price range.




--- In Q-LIST@..., "Leon - C" <leon@c...> wrote:


----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Walker" <bwalker@m...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Re: LS-1 Quickie Template - availability


Leon,

I just couldn't let this pass without a comment.

I would never encourage someone to steal intellectual property
especially from an individual like yourself. But, I find
the reasons you post for not sending electronic copies to
be kinda short sighted. One could easily make electronic
copies of the prints and also there is technology to reverse
engineer those prints into a CAD format.
I would prefer to distribute an all electronic version, ( it's
cheaper and
faster) but the required software to "lock" the files without
Internet
access just doesn't exist - for a price that can be justified by
this
project. I know there are cheaper encryption methods using
proprietary
software but they are actually pretty poor, if you want to allow
much
flexibility for the legitimist user. This project is just a small
learning
step on my way to much more involved and original undertakings.
Hopefully
it will lead to a better end product............

In the end the only way to protect this kind of intelectual
property is
vigorus use of civil litigation. That solution is only
justified when
much more valuable information is at risk.

Besides, we that prefer CAD files are still in the minority. Most
potential
Quickie builders just don't have access to large format
printers. You can
go to place like Kinkos, but their cost is still kind of what I
consider
high for a full set of prints...........and the ones my local
Kinko's come
up with aren't exactly 1:1.

I do appreciate what you are doing and do plan on
purchasing a set of plans from you.

-brad w.
Just for the record: I am not/will not be selling plans. These
documents
should be considered nothing more than documentation to aid in the
repair,
restoration , or completion of an existing project. These
documents along
with the original builders manual and QAC plans change notices
will give one
100% of the information needed to properly fabricate any part of
the
Quickie, from the firewall aft, to original QAC specifications.
===================
Leon McAtee
CYA mode


Re: Fuel supply questions

Peter Harris <peterjfharris@...>
 

Thanks Sam . That is good news. Would that be a 5/16"feed or will 1/4" do the job?
Jab are running a mech pump and an electric pump in series. Bad idea it doubles the risk of a blockage by jammed valves and would cut off gravity feed.
I was planning to keep the mech pump but run a gravity feed direct to the carb with the pump in parallel. But would need a stop valve to prevent fuel recirculating.
The Spruce listed Andair stop valve looks good but $50 seems a lot to pay?
Peter.

----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Hoskins
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2005 10:27 PM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Fuel supply questions


The answer to question #1: Absolutely.

#2. Depends on what you mean by "cheap" and "OK".

Sam Hoskins



_____

From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...] On Behalf Of
Peter Harris
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 6:23 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Fuel supply questions



Hi, can anyone advise on two fuel supply questions:
1. Is gravity feed enough to run the 0-200 with no fuel pump?
2. What is a cheap but OK fuel check valve. Spruce list the Andair rabge
for about $50. Are there any OK alternatives?
Thanks,
Peter





Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






_____

YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS



* Visit your group "Q-LIST <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST> "
on the web.

* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...
<mailto:Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe>

* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Terms of Service.



_____







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http://www.quickiebuilders.org





SPONSORED LINKS Aviation maintenance Aviation maintenance training Aviation maintenance schools
Aviation maintenance schools Aviation Aviation art


------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Fuel supply questions

Peter Harris <peterjfharris@...>
 

Hi, can anyone advise on two fuel supply questions:
1. Is gravity feed enough to run the 0-200 with no fuel pump?
2. What is a cheap but OK fuel check valve. Spruce list the Andair rabge for about $50. Are there any OK alternatives?
Thanks,
Peter


Re: LS-1 Quickie Template - availability

Leon - C <leon@...>
 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Walker" <bwalker@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Re: LS-1 Quickie Template - availability


Leon,

I just couldn't let this pass without a comment.

I would never encourage someone to steal intellectual property
especially from an individual like yourself. But, I find
the reasons you post for not sending electronic copies to
be kinda short sighted. One could easily make electronic
copies of the prints and also there is technology to reverse
engineer those prints into a CAD format.
I would prefer to distribute an all electronic version, ( it's cheaper and
faster) but the required software to "lock" the files without Internet
access just doesn't exist - for a price that can be justified by this
project. I know there are cheaper encryption methods using proprietary
software but they are actually pretty poor, if you want to allow much
flexibility for the legitimist user. This project is just a small learning
step on my way to much more involved and original undertakings. Hopefully
it will lead to a better end product............

In the end the only way to protect this kind of intelectual property is
vigorus use of civil litigation. That solution is only justified when
much more valuable information is at risk.

Besides, we that prefer CAD files are still in the minority. Most potential
Quickie builders just don't have access to large format printers. You can
go to place like Kinkos, but their cost is still kind of what I consider
high for a full set of prints...........and the ones my local Kinko's come
up with aren't exactly 1:1.

I do appreciate what you are doing and do plan on
purchasing a set of plans from you.

-brad w.
Just for the record: I am not/will not be selling plans. These documents
should be considered nothing more than documentation to aid in the repair,
restoration , or completion of an existing project. These documents along
with the original builders manual and QAC plans change notices will give one
100% of the information needed to properly fabricate any part of the
Quickie, from the firewall aft, to original QAC specifications.
===================
Leon McAtee
CYA mode


Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.

Dave Richardson <dave@...>
 

Chris,

Just so you understand the temperature I was referring to by idling at
1200 rpm or so is not the CHT's or even the EGT's. CHT's, as Jim
astutely pointed out, should be watched carefully so you don't
overstress your heads and cylinders. The temps I'm talking about are
the internal combustion chamber surface temperatures which you don't
normally have a good way of measuring. I wrote an article on this issue
for Q-Talk this past year and may be helpful to read because it does not
just relate to RevMaster engines like mine. It was very eye opening for
me learning about this and doing the research because I had always been
told to idle at 1000 rpm's until the engine is warmed up (i.e. 200°
CHT). This learning experience cost me over 13 gallons of fuel.
Luckily it was before the recent price spike, though. BTW I had just
one cylinder that would soot up, too, before I was told about this
issue. The kicker was at low rpm's it would seem pretty smooth but it
wasn't until I went to full throttle that the real issue with not having
one cylinder fire due to the fouling was readily apparent.

Good luck figuring out your problem.

Dave Richardson

-----Original Message-----
From: chris rayner [mailto:chris-rayner@...]
Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 1:48 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.

Jim/Damian, I expect to try again at the weekend. I already changed the
plugs on #2 - both were the same which told me it's cylinder/mixture
issue
and not ignition. I expected that a manifold leak would cause a weak
mixture
though, not rich. Next time I run I'll let thing get fully hot, let it
all
settle down - not above 400F CHT. But as the OAT is only about 40F, I
need
to subtract 35F to allow for calibration temp of the gauge (75F). It is
subtract - so 365F?

Chris

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Patillo" <logistics_engineering@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 12:42 AM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.



Chris,

Make sure you don't have an intake leak on the rubber/clamp/tube
setup. I know it's a little hard to squirt WD40 with a fan that big
that close to your heaaad! Also rotate a plug and see if the problem
moves.

The trick to running your engine is to NOT let the CHT's get over
400 or so. Cooling the cylinders down in between runs helps. I
followed the 0200 break in manual and ground ran it for longer than
I would like to say with no ill effects. You can do it just watch
those cylinders because onced they're glazed you get to do it all
over again. Just ask Mark Summers!

Jim Patillo N46JP Q200
--- In Q-LIST@..., "chris rayner" <chris-rayner@b...>
wrote:

Dave, thanks - I'll try that thanks. I am still puzzled why only
one
cylinder shows the problem. Maybe it'll go away with some more
serious
running - perhaps I'm worrying too soon. I'll let you know. I'll
try
Damian's WD40 test as well.

Chris Rayner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Richardson" <dave@h...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 6:31 PM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.


Hi Chris,

Glad to hear you found your gremlin.

I had something similar happen to me on the plugs on my
RevMaster and
idling at a higher RPM helped me out. The temps of the
combustion above
about 1200 rpm's will help clear the carbon. I would understand
why you
would have been reluctant to idle very high given your missing
oil
pressure reading. Clean your plugs and idle at 1200 for a bit
making
sure you lean it, let the engine cool back down to room temp so
you
don't mess up your heads and pull the plugs and see if that
helps.

Hope that helps.

Dave Richardson

-----Original Message-----
From: chris rayner [mailto:chris-rayner@b...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 1:05 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.

A bit more - maybe I should shift this to the O-200 list - we'll
see. I
found those missing psi's; poor electrical connection on the
back of the

gauge - thankfully.

Anyone an idea why 3 cylinders have nice clean spark plugs, but
#2 is
sooty
on both plugs. The engine runs smoothly, but it seems to have
poor
combustion or excess fuel in one cylinder. Can't see why there
should be
too
much fuel in one cylinder, but the other possibility could be low
compression - rings or valves, but they are all new. Would a
sticking
tappet
do it? How do I check? My carb is the C-90's Stromberg NA-S3,
but can't
see
how that would cause a problem with one cylinder. Anyone with
experience
on
this? Thanks.

Chris Rayner


----- Original Message -----
From: "chris rayner" <chris-rayner@b...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 12:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor.


Thanks Jim and everyone for your advice and comments - I have
some
progress
and as it's hand swing, a very sore arm and hand. Normally my
right
arm is
for drinking and stuff; this was hard work. I don't have a
mechanical
gauge - "lent" it to a friend some years ago - so I tried
taking off
the
right hand front oil gallery blanking plug and swinging the
prop with
a
set
of plugs removed. I also added an earth wire from the motor to
the
main
panel earth circuit (solved the p-lead not working...). After
about 5
or 6
revs, I had oil flowing out, so I put back the plug, switched
on the
electrics and the gauge measured some pressure when I swung the
prop.

I reassembled everything and started swinging for real. After
forever,
she
fired up - plenty of pressure showing on the gauge (OAT about
40F).
The
motor stopped after 10 seconds or so. Some more swinging and she
started
again, but no pressure showing. So I reckoned it's not likely
to show
oil
flow and good pressure one minute and then lose it all. So I
kept the
motor
running - did about 10 minutes, keeping an eye on the CHT and
EGT.
Everything seemed fine - it's sure got some pull - even keeping
to
maximum
about 1250 revs - very responsive.

So next, I need to check I still have genuine oil pressure -
check
sender
and electrics etc - before running again. I'll need to rig an
air
collector
to direct the cooling air down to the engine and then ground run
longer to
get the oil hot. This is an unsettling but satisfying time - so
long
as
there really is pressure!

I think Doug's going to put some pictures and some words I
wrote a
couple
of
months ago in the "Q-Talk" sometime. I'll post significant
progress
though -
for a lot of you guys, this will be old news, but it's new news
for
me!

Chris Rayner

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Patillo" <logistics_engineering@m...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 3:11 AM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor.


Chris,

Congratulations, sounds like you're making headway!

As I've said before, 0200 engines are pretty bullet proof. It
is not
uncommon for that engine to take awhile to produce oil
pressure,
especially if its had a long enough period to drain out or has
never
had oil pressure. I've seen it take 2-3 minutes before the
pressure
starts to read. Just ask Brad Olsen! Make sure the gauge you
use is
working properly.

It makes you really nervous the first time but you'll get use
to it.
That engine can run without oil for awhile, take a licking and
still
keep ticking.

Oil every cavity you can and start cranking.

Regards,
Jim Patillo N46JP Q200


--- In Q-LIST@..., "chris rayner" <chris-
rayner@b...>
wrote:

Guys, ran my C90/ O-200 hybrid motor today for the first time
in
probably 20 years - I built it from a box of bits and re-
conditioned
as necessary. Took some time as it's hand swing - aching
muscles and
back now.....!

Ran for 30 seconds or so; no oil pressure showed on the
Westach
gauge and the p-lead switch wouldn't stop it, so cut the fuel.
3
steps forward, one or two (not sure) back; got some
investigating to
do. Does anyone know whether 30 seconds plus is unusual? I
primed the
oil lines and filter a week ago by swinging the prop with the
spark
plugs out. I'll make sure there's oil in the lines etc before
I try
again, but someone's comments would be useful - never run a re-
built
Continental before. I'll check all connections before trying
again.
Thanks all.

Chris Rayner









Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links











Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links










Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links










Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links












Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links










Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.

damiantwinsport@...
 

Chris, a manifold leak in multi cylinder engines would manifest as the cyls with good vacuum would get a good to slightly lean mixture the cly with bad vaccuum may get layed down fuel Ie no longer atomized due to the leak or may run lean if the leak is bad enough.

Regards,
Damian Gregory N8427 Q200

-----Original Message-----
From: chris rayner <chris-rayner@...>
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Thu, 8 Dec 2005 18:48:13 -0000
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.


Jim/Damian, I expect to try again at the weekend. I already changed the
plugs on #2 - both were the same which told me it's cylinder/mixture issue
and not ignition. I expected that a manifold leak would cause a weak mixture
though, not rich. Next time I run I'll let thing get fully hot, let it all
settle down - not above 400F CHT. But as the OAT is only about 40F, I need
to subtract 35F to allow for calibration temp of the gauge (75F). It is
subtract - so 365F?

Chris

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Patillo" <logistics_engineering@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 12:42 AM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.



Chris,

Make sure you don't have an intake leak on the rubber/clamp/tube
setup. I know it's a little hard to squirt WD40 with a fan that big
that close to your heaaad! Also rotate a plug and see if the problem
moves.

The trick to running your engine is to NOT let the CHT's get over
400 or so. Cooling the cylinders down in between runs helps. I
followed the 0200 break in manual and ground ran it for longer than
I would like to say with no ill effects. You can do it just watch
those cylinders because onced they're glazed you get to do it all
over again. Just ask Mark Summers!

Jim Patillo N46JP Q200
--- In Q-LIST@..., "chris rayner" <chris-rayner@b...>
wrote:

Dave, thanks - I'll try that thanks. I am still puzzled why only
one
cylinder shows the problem. Maybe it'll go away with some more
serious
running - perhaps I'm worrying too soon. I'll let you know. I'll
try
Damian's WD40 test as well.

Chris Rayner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Richardson" <dave@h...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 6:31 PM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.


Hi Chris,

Glad to hear you found your gremlin.

I had something similar happen to me on the plugs on my
RevMaster and
idling at a higher RPM helped me out. The temps of the
combustion above
about 1200 rpm's will help clear the carbon. I would understand
why you
would have been reluctant to idle very high given your missing
oil
pressure reading. Clean your plugs and idle at 1200 for a bit
making
sure you lean it, let the engine cool back down to room temp so
you
don't mess up your heads and pull the plugs and see if that
helps.

Hope that helps.

Dave Richardson

-----Original Message-----
From: chris rayner [mailto:chris-rayner@b...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 1:05 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.

A bit more - maybe I should shift this to the O-200 list - we'll
see. I
found those missing psi's; poor electrical connection on the
back of the

gauge - thankfully.

Anyone an idea why 3 cylinders have nice clean spark plugs, but
#2 is
sooty
on both plugs. The engine runs smoothly, but it seems to have
poor
combustion or excess fuel in one cylinder. Can't see why there
should be
too
much fuel in one cylinder, but the other possibility could be low
compression - rings or valves, but they are all new. Would a
sticking
tappet
do it? How do I check? My carb is the C-90's Stromberg NA-S3,
but can't
see
how that would cause a problem with one cylinder. Anyone with
experience
on
this? Thanks.

Chris Rayner


----- Original Message -----
From: "chris rayner" <chris-rayner@b...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 12:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor.


Thanks Jim and everyone for your advice and comments - I have
some
progress
and as it's hand swing, a very sore arm and hand. Normally my
right
arm is
for drinking and stuff; this was hard work. I don't have a
mechanical
gauge - "lent" it to a friend some years ago - so I tried
taking off
the
right hand front oil gallery blanking plug and swinging the
prop with
a
set
of plugs removed. I also added an earth wire from the motor to
the
main
panel earth circuit (solved the p-lead not working...). After
about 5
or 6
revs, I had oil flowing out, so I put back the plug, switched
on the
electrics and the gauge measured some pressure when I swung the
prop.

I reassembled everything and started swinging for real. After
forever,
she
fired up - plenty of pressure showing on the gauge (OAT about
40F).
The
motor stopped after 10 seconds or so. Some more swinging and she
started
again, but no pressure showing. So I reckoned it's not likely
to show
oil
flow and good pressure one minute and then lose it all. So I
kept the
motor
running - did about 10 minutes, keeping an eye on the CHT and
EGT.
Everything seemed fine - it's sure got some pull - even keeping
to
maximum
about 1250 revs - very responsive.

So next, I need to check I still have genuine oil pressure -
check
sender
and electrics etc - before running again. I'll need to rig an
air
collector
to direct the cooling air down to the engine and then ground run
longer to
get the oil hot. This is an unsettling but satisfying time - so
long
as
there really is pressure!

I think Doug's going to put some pictures and some words I
wrote a
couple
of
months ago in the "Q-Talk" sometime. I'll post significant
progress
though -
for a lot of you guys, this will be old news, but it's new news
for
me!

Chris Rayner

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Patillo" <logistics_engineering@m...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 3:11 AM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor.


Chris,

Congratulations, sounds like you're making headway!

As I've said before, 0200 engines are pretty bullet proof. It
is not
uncommon for that engine to take awhile to produce oil
pressure,
especially if its had a long enough period to drain out or has
never
had oil pressure. I've seen it take 2-3 minutes before the
pressure
starts to read. Just ask Brad Olsen! Make sure the gauge you
use is
working properly.

It makes you really nervous the first time but you'll get use
to it.
That engine can run without oil for awhile, take a licking and
still
keep ticking.

Oil every cavity you can and start cranking.

Regards,
Jim Patillo N46JP Q200


--- In Q-LIST@..., "chris rayner" <chris-
rayner@b...>
wrote:

Guys, ran my C90/ O-200 hybrid motor today for the first time
in
probably 20 years - I built it from a box of bits and re-
conditioned
as necessary. Took some time as it's hand swing - aching
muscles and
back now.....!

Ran for 30 seconds or so; no oil pressure showed on the
Westach
gauge and the p-lead switch wouldn't stop it, so cut the fuel.
3
steps forward, one or two (not sure) back; got some
investigating to
do. Does anyone know whether 30 seconds plus is unusual? I
primed the
oil lines and filter a week ago by swinging the prop with the
spark
plugs out. I'll make sure there's oil in the lines etc before
I try
again, but someone's comments would be useful - never run a re-
built
Continental before. I'll check all connections before trying
again.
Thanks all.

Chris Rayner









Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links











Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links










Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links










Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links












Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links










Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.

chris rayner <chris-rayner@...>
 

Jim/Damian, I expect to try again at the weekend. I already changed the plugs on #2 - both were the same which told me it's cylinder/mixture issue and not ignition. I expected that a manifold leak would cause a weak mixture though, not rich. Next time I run I'll let thing get fully hot, let it all settle down - not above 400F CHT. But as the OAT is only about 40F, I need to subtract 35F to allow for calibration temp of the gauge (75F). It is subtract - so 365F?

Chris

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Patillo" <logistics_engineering@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 12:42 AM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.



Chris,

Make sure you don't have an intake leak on the rubber/clamp/tube
setup. I know it's a little hard to squirt WD40 with a fan that big
that close to your heaaad! Also rotate a plug and see if the problem
moves.

The trick to running your engine is to NOT let the CHT's get over
400 or so. Cooling the cylinders down in between runs helps. I
followed the 0200 break in manual and ground ran it for longer than
I would like to say with no ill effects. You can do it just watch
those cylinders because onced they're glazed you get to do it all
over again. Just ask Mark Summers!

Jim Patillo N46JP Q200
--- In Q-LIST@..., "chris rayner" <chris-rayner@b...>
wrote:

Dave, thanks - I'll try that thanks. I am still puzzled why only
one
cylinder shows the problem. Maybe it'll go away with some more
serious
running - perhaps I'm worrying too soon. I'll let you know. I'll
try
Damian's WD40 test as well.

Chris Rayner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Richardson" <dave@h...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 6:31 PM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.


Hi Chris,

Glad to hear you found your gremlin.

I had something similar happen to me on the plugs on my
RevMaster and
idling at a higher RPM helped me out. The temps of the
combustion above
about 1200 rpm's will help clear the carbon. I would understand
why you
would have been reluctant to idle very high given your missing
oil
pressure reading. Clean your plugs and idle at 1200 for a bit
making
sure you lean it, let the engine cool back down to room temp so
you
don't mess up your heads and pull the plugs and see if that
helps.

Hope that helps.

Dave Richardson

-----Original Message-----
From: chris rayner [mailto:chris-rayner@b...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 1:05 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.

A bit more - maybe I should shift this to the O-200 list - we'll
see. I
found those missing psi's; poor electrical connection on the
back of the

gauge - thankfully.

Anyone an idea why 3 cylinders have nice clean spark plugs, but
#2 is
sooty
on both plugs. The engine runs smoothly, but it seems to have
poor
combustion or excess fuel in one cylinder. Can't see why there
should be
too
much fuel in one cylinder, but the other possibility could be low
compression - rings or valves, but they are all new. Would a
sticking
tappet
do it? How do I check? My carb is the C-90's Stromberg NA-S3,
but can't
see
how that would cause a problem with one cylinder. Anyone with
experience
on
this? Thanks.

Chris Rayner


----- Original Message -----
From: "chris rayner" <chris-rayner@b...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 12:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor.


Thanks Jim and everyone for your advice and comments - I have
some
progress
and as it's hand swing, a very sore arm and hand. Normally my
right
arm is
for drinking and stuff; this was hard work. I don't have a
mechanical
gauge - "lent" it to a friend some years ago - so I tried
taking off
the
right hand front oil gallery blanking plug and swinging the
prop with
a
set
of plugs removed. I also added an earth wire from the motor to
the
main
panel earth circuit (solved the p-lead not working...). After
about 5
or 6
revs, I had oil flowing out, so I put back the plug, switched
on the
electrics and the gauge measured some pressure when I swung the
prop.

I reassembled everything and started swinging for real. After
forever,
she
fired up - plenty of pressure showing on the gauge (OAT about
40F).
The
motor stopped after 10 seconds or so. Some more swinging and she
started
again, but no pressure showing. So I reckoned it's not likely
to show
oil
flow and good pressure one minute and then lose it all. So I
kept the
motor
running - did about 10 minutes, keeping an eye on the CHT and
EGT.
Everything seemed fine - it's sure got some pull - even keeping
to
maximum
about 1250 revs - very responsive.

So next, I need to check I still have genuine oil pressure -
check
sender
and electrics etc - before running again. I'll need to rig an
air
collector
to direct the cooling air down to the engine and then ground run
longer to
get the oil hot. This is an unsettling but satisfying time - so
long
as
there really is pressure!

I think Doug's going to put some pictures and some words I
wrote a
couple
of
months ago in the "Q-Talk" sometime. I'll post significant
progress
though -
for a lot of you guys, this will be old news, but it's new news
for
me!

Chris Rayner

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Patillo" <logistics_engineering@m...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 3:11 AM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor.


Chris,

Congratulations, sounds like you're making headway!

As I've said before, 0200 engines are pretty bullet proof. It
is not
uncommon for that engine to take awhile to produce oil
pressure,
especially if its had a long enough period to drain out or has
never
had oil pressure. I've seen it take 2-3 minutes before the
pressure
starts to read. Just ask Brad Olsen! Make sure the gauge you
use is
working properly.

It makes you really nervous the first time but you'll get use
to it.
That engine can run without oil for awhile, take a licking and
still
keep ticking.

Oil every cavity you can and start cranking.

Regards,
Jim Patillo N46JP Q200


--- In Q-LIST@..., "chris rayner" <chris-
rayner@b...>
wrote:

Guys, ran my C90/ O-200 hybrid motor today for the first time
in
probably 20 years - I built it from a box of bits and re-
conditioned
as necessary. Took some time as it's hand swing - aching
muscles and
back now.....!

Ran for 30 seconds or so; no oil pressure showed on the
Westach
gauge and the p-lead switch wouldn't stop it, so cut the fuel.
3
steps forward, one or two (not sure) back; got some
investigating to
do. Does anyone know whether 30 seconds plus is unusual? I
primed the
oil lines and filter a week ago by swinging the prop with the
spark
plugs out. I'll make sure there's oil in the lines etc before
I try
again, but someone's comments would be useful - never run a re-
built
Continental before. I'll check all connections before trying
again.
Thanks all.

Chris Rayner








Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links











Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links










Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links










Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links












Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links







Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.

chris rayner <chris-rayner@...>
 

Damian, just a natural talent.... I'm hoping it transfers to the motor and then the whole plane!
Chris

----- Original Message -----
From: <damiantwinsport@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 11:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.


Chris, did you mean to ryhme?

Regards,
Damian Gregory N8427 Q200


-----Original Message-----
From: chris rayner <chris-rayner@...>
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 23:13:14 -0000
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.


Damian, I'll give it a go and let you know. Thanks
Chris Rayner

----- Original Message -----
From: <damiantwinsport@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 6:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.


Chris , it could be a leak in the intake manifold. With engine idling
squirt WD 40 on connections if there is a stumble or speed up you have
found the leak.

Regards,
Damian Gregory N8427 Q200


-----Original Message-----
From: chris rayner <chris-rayner@...>
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 18:04:51 -0000
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.


A bit more - maybe I should shift this to the O-200 list - we'll see. I
found those missing psi's; poor electrical connection on the back of the
gauge - thankfully.

Anyone an idea why 3 cylinders have nice clean spark plugs, but #2 is
sooty
on both plugs. The engine runs smoothly, but it seems to have poor
combustion or excess fuel in one cylinder. Can't see why there should be
too
much fuel in one cylinder, but the other possibility could be low
compression - rings or valves, but they are all new. Would a sticking
tappet
do it? How do I check? My carb is the C-90's Stromberg NA-S3, but can't
see
how that would cause a problem with one cylinder. Anyone with experience
on
this? Thanks.

Chris Rayner


----- Original Message -----
From: "chris rayner" <chris-rayner@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 12:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor.


Thanks Jim and everyone for your advice and comments - I have some
progress
and as it's hand swing, a very sore arm and hand. Normally my right arm
is
for drinking and stuff; this was hard work. I don't have a mechanical
gauge - "lent" it to a friend some years ago - so I tried taking off the
right hand front oil gallery blanking plug and swinging the prop with a
set
of plugs removed. I also added an earth wire from the motor to the main
panel earth circuit (solved the p-lead not working...). After about 5 or
6
revs, I had oil flowing out, so I put back the plug, switched on the
electrics and the gauge measured some pressure when I swung the prop.

I reassembled everything and started swinging for real. After forever,
she
fired up - plenty of pressure showing on the gauge (OAT about 40F). The
motor stopped after 10 seconds or so. Some more swinging and she started
again, but no pressure showing. So I reckoned it's not likely to show oil
flow and good pressure one minute and then lose it all. So I kept the
motor
running - did about 10 minutes, keeping an eye on the CHT and EGT.
Everything seemed fine - it's sure got some pull - even keeping to
maximum
about 1250 revs - very responsive.

So next, I need to check I still have genuine oil pressure - check sender
and electrics etc - before running again. I'll need to rig an air
collector
to direct the cooling air down to the engine and then ground run longer
to
get the oil hot. This is an unsettling but satisfying time - so long as
there really is pressure!

I think Doug's going to put some pictures and some words I wrote a couple
of
months ago in the "Q-Talk" sometime. I'll post significant progress
though -
for a lot of you guys, this will be old news, but it's new news for me!

Chris Rayner

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Patillo" <logistics_engineering@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 3:11 AM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor.


Chris,

Congratulations, sounds like you're making headway!

As I've said before, 0200 engines are pretty bullet proof. It is not
uncommon for that engine to take awhile to produce oil pressure,
especially if its had a long enough period to drain out or has never
had oil pressure. I've seen it take 2-3 minutes before the pressure
starts to read. Just ask Brad Olsen! Make sure the gauge you use is
working properly.

It makes you really nervous the first time but you'll get use to it.
That engine can run without oil for awhile, take a licking and still
keep ticking.

Oil every cavity you can and start cranking.

Regards,
Jim Patillo N46JP Q200


--- In Q-LIST@..., "chris rayner" <chris-rayner@b...>
wrote:

Guys, ran my C90/ O-200 hybrid motor today for the first time in
probably 20 years - I built it from a box of bits and re-conditioned
as necessary. Took some time as it's hand swing - aching muscles and
back now.....!

Ran for 30 seconds or so; no oil pressure showed on the Westach
gauge and the p-lead switch wouldn't stop it, so cut the fuel. 3
steps forward, one or two (not sure) back; got some investigating to
do. Does anyone know whether 30 seconds plus is unusual? I primed the
oil lines and filter a week ago by swinging the prop with the spark
plugs out. I'll make sure there's oil in the lines etc before I try
again, but someone's comments would be useful - never run a re-built
Continental before. I'll check all connections before trying again.
Thanks all.

Chris Rayner








Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links











Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links










Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links










Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links










Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links










Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links







Re: Anybody ever tried one of these things?

damiantwinsport@...
 

I read the description, should work pretty good .I think it would work better if the system was in a closed loop so you are drying the moist air in the engine over and over again instead of bringing the outside ambient moisture in as well. Might need more desicant.

Regards,
Damian Gregory N8427 Q200

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Dwyer <mdwyer@...>
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Wed, 07 Dec 2005 20:41:18 -0500
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Anybody ever tried one of these things?


I think that is a great idea.
Mike Q200

French wrote:
Has anyone ever tried or know of anyone who has tried one of these things to
see if they are for real??

http://www.flyingsafer.com/2039.htm

I know everybody is going to tell me that I am not supposed to let the
airplane sit idle for very long and that I am supposed to be flying it, BUT - I
often times take the bird down during the cold winter months to do some sort of
upgrade and this winter is no exception. With the off season temperature
fluctuations around here one of these might help reduce some rust concern.

Comments please
Lynn



Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.

damiantwinsport@...
 

Chris, oh yeah use that skinny lil tube that comes with the WD 40 gives you directional control and allows you to flood distinct areas. If it engine is set at slow idle it will cough and change dramatically if you have a leak and you spray right on it.

Regards,
Damian Gregory N8427 Q200

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Patillo <logistics_engineering@...>
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Thu, 08 Dec 2005 00:42:17 -0000
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.



Chris,

Make sure you don't have an intake leak on the rubber/clamp/tube
setup. I know it's a little hard to squirt WD40 with a fan that big
that close to your heaaad! Also rotate a plug and see if the problem
moves.

The trick to running your engine is to NOT let the CHT's get over
400 or so. Cooling the cylinders down in between runs helps. I
followed the 0200 break in manual and ground ran it for longer than
I would like to say with no ill effects. You can do it just watch
those cylinders because onced they're glazed you get to do it all
over again. Just ask Mark Summers!

Jim Patillo N46JP Q200
--- In Q-LIST@..., "chris rayner" <chris-rayner@b...>
wrote:

Dave, thanks - I'll try that thanks. I am still puzzled why only
one
cylinder shows the problem. Maybe it'll go away with some more
serious
running - perhaps I'm worrying too soon. I'll let you know. I'll
try
Damian's WD40 test as well.

Chris Rayner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Richardson" <dave@h...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 6:31 PM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.


Hi Chris,

Glad to hear you found your gremlin.

I had something similar happen to me on the plugs on my
RevMaster and
idling at a higher RPM helped me out. The temps of the
combustion above
about 1200 rpm's will help clear the carbon. I would understand
why you
would have been reluctant to idle very high given your missing
oil
pressure reading. Clean your plugs and idle at 1200 for a bit
making
sure you lean it, let the engine cool back down to room temp so
you
don't mess up your heads and pull the plugs and see if that
helps.

Hope that helps.

Dave Richardson

-----Original Message-----
From: chris rayner [mailto:chris-rayner@b...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 1:05 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor advice please.

A bit more - maybe I should shift this to the O-200 list - we'll
see. I
found those missing psi's; poor electrical connection on the
back of the

gauge - thankfully.

Anyone an idea why 3 cylinders have nice clean spark plugs, but
#2 is
sooty
on both plugs. The engine runs smoothly, but it seems to have
poor
combustion or excess fuel in one cylinder. Can't see why there
should be
too
much fuel in one cylinder, but the other possibility could be low
compression - rings or valves, but they are all new. Would a
sticking
tappet
do it? How do I check? My carb is the C-90's Stromberg NA-S3,
but can't
see
how that would cause a problem with one cylinder. Anyone with
experience
on
this? Thanks.

Chris Rayner


----- Original Message -----
From: "chris rayner" <chris-rayner@b...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 12:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor.


Thanks Jim and everyone for your advice and comments - I have
some
progress
and as it's hand swing, a very sore arm and hand. Normally my
right
arm is
for drinking and stuff; this was hard work. I don't have a
mechanical
gauge - "lent" it to a friend some years ago - so I tried
taking off
the
right hand front oil gallery blanking plug and swinging the
prop with
a
set
of plugs removed. I also added an earth wire from the motor to
the
main
panel earth circuit (solved the p-lead not working...). After
about 5
or 6
revs, I had oil flowing out, so I put back the plug, switched
on the
electrics and the gauge measured some pressure when I swung the
prop.

I reassembled everything and started swinging for real. After
forever,
she
fired up - plenty of pressure showing on the gauge (OAT about
40F).
The
motor stopped after 10 seconds or so. Some more swinging and she
started
again, but no pressure showing. So I reckoned it's not likely
to show
oil
flow and good pressure one minute and then lose it all. So I
kept the
motor
running - did about 10 minutes, keeping an eye on the CHT and
EGT.
Everything seemed fine - it's sure got some pull - even keeping
to
maximum
about 1250 revs - very responsive.

So next, I need to check I still have genuine oil pressure -
check
sender
and electrics etc - before running again. I'll need to rig an
air
collector
to direct the cooling air down to the engine and then ground run
longer to
get the oil hot. This is an unsettling but satisfying time - so
long
as
there really is pressure!

I think Doug's going to put some pictures and some words I
wrote a
couple
of
months ago in the "Q-Talk" sometime. I'll post significant
progress
though -
for a lot of you guys, this will be old news, but it's new news
for
me!

Chris Rayner

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Patillo" <logistics_engineering@m...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 3:11 AM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: First run - G-CUIK's motor.


Chris,

Congratulations, sounds like you're making headway!

As I've said before, 0200 engines are pretty bullet proof. It
is not
uncommon for that engine to take awhile to produce oil
pressure,
especially if its had a long enough period to drain out or has
never
had oil pressure. I've seen it take 2-3 minutes before the
pressure
starts to read. Just ask Brad Olsen! Make sure the gauge you
use is
working properly.

It makes you really nervous the first time but you'll get use
to it.
That engine can run without oil for awhile, take a licking and
still
keep ticking.

Oil every cavity you can and start cranking.

Regards,
Jim Patillo N46JP Q200


--- In Q-LIST@..., "chris rayner" <chris-
rayner@b...>
wrote:

Guys, ran my C90/ O-200 hybrid motor today for the first time
in
probably 20 years - I built it from a box of bits and re-
conditioned
as necessary. Took some time as it's hand swing - aching
muscles and
back now.....!

Ran for 30 seconds or so; no oil pressure showed on the
Westach
gauge and the p-lead switch wouldn't stop it, so cut the fuel.
3
steps forward, one or two (not sure) back; got some
investigating to
do. Does anyone know whether 30 seconds plus is unusual? I
primed the
oil lines and filter a week ago by swinging the prop with the
spark
plugs out. I'll make sure there's oil in the lines etc before
I try
again, but someone's comments would be useful - never run a re-
built
Continental before. I'll check all connections before trying
again.
Thanks all.

Chris Rayner









Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links











Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links










Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links










Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links












Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: LS-1 Quickie Template - availability

Brad Walker
 

Leon,

I just couldn't let this pass without a comment.

I would never encourage someone to steal intellectual property
especially from an individual like yourself. But, I find
the reasons you post for not sending electronic copies to
be kinda short sighted. One could easily make electronic
copies of the prints and also there is technology to reverse
engineer those prints into a CAD format. I won't bore you
with the details of all the manufacturing companies who
have had to convert cabinet after cabinet of paper docs into
an electronic format.

I would pay more money, if that is what you are concerned about,
just to have an electronic version since it would make my
life easier.

Having said all this..

I do appreciate what you are doing and do plan on
purchasing a set of plans from you.

-brad w.

On 12/6/05, Leon - C <leon@...> wrote:

----- Original Message -----
From: "Francisco Corral" <panchotto1989@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 11:17 AM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: LS-1 Quickie Template - Mistake -?


> H to all,
> (this has nothing to do here XD)how can i have those templates, i
> have to purchase them or you only send them by email or neither????
>
> Francisco Corral

I have not yet decided how to market them. In the past I offered them as a
"Package Deal" with the drawings for the QAC welded and machined parts.
The
cost and hassle of having them printed by an outside source just wasn't
justifiable, at what I considered a reasonable price. I have redone all
the drawings in CAD so I can do all the printing and quality control
myself.

Once I am 100% finished - and the prints have been double checked for
mistakes I'll post here, and elsewhere the details of availability. I will
only publish paper copies, not DFX, or other format CAD files. This means
that there will be no way to electronically transfer templates - at least
accurate ones. You can probably get a scanned set of my last templates off
eBay from one of the many vendors selling "borrowed" PDF files and
templates.