Hi Rich - what engine do you have? If it rich-cuts at idle, it should be possible to alter the setup so that it doesn’t....
Bill
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 11:35, Richard Thomson < richard@...> wrote:
Thanks Bill, that is some interesting information to consider.
The reason I select carb heat cold on late final is not
damage to the engine but Rich Cut, and even then that is not a
problem if you are landing, but on T&G's and on short fields
can be a decider if you end up in the hedge ( or at Henstridge in
the fence or girders), so I my norm is Carb Heat Cold on late
final and a gentle cycle of the throttle to check its still there.
Br
RichT.
On 04/01/2021 08:13, Bill Allen wrote:
Hi Kieth,
You wrote: << I was hoping for some info
regarding the use of Prist. >>r
Joel Ventura did quite a detailed article on Prist
etc here:
Bill
Note: Prist wont stop carb ice, which comes out
of the atmosphere. Prist deals with water already in
suspension within the fuel.
On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 03:58,
Keith Welsh < klw544@...> wrote:
Hi again,
All your comments, experiences and knowledge no doubt
turned out to be a real education. I don’t know about
y’all but icing is normally not a discussion item. I’m
glad I took the chance to post the article. Learned more
than I thought I would. And thank you all for “Your
Opinions”
I must admit I was hoping for some info regarding the
use of Prist. I did actually use it in the Quickie for a
time. Reckon it did ok..that was several years ago. My Q
does not have carb heat nor does the carb have access to
outside air, only hot air off the engine and is why the
interest in the Teflon coating. The carb on the newer
Onan sets higher so to accommodate a new heat box I would
need to make a new cowl bump....like that was gonna
happen! Not surprised no one had much to say about it.
Like Jay I’m sure ice will form Teflon or not but I’ve
never used a Teflon coated anything that anything would
stick to it. I once froze water in both a steel pan and a
Teflon one. Guess which one the ice slid out of. The
steel pan had ice remnants sticking to it after most was
chipped out. Yeah, pretty unscientific but.... Think
about your plastic ice server bucket when guest come over,
the ice sticks to everything even fingers. At least
modern technology has provided us with some options.
Thanks again,
Keith
--
|
|

Richard Thomson
Thanks Bill, that is some interesting information to consider.
The reason I select carb heat cold on late final is not
damage to the engine but Rich Cut, and even then that is not a
problem if you are landing, but on T&G's and on short fields
can be a decider if you end up in the hedge ( or at Henstridge in
the fence or girders), so I my norm is Carb Heat Cold on late
final and a gentle cycle of the throttle to check its still there.
Br
RichT.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On 04/01/2021 08:13, Bill Allen wrote:
Hi Kieth,
You wrote: << I was hoping for some info
regarding the use of Prist. >>r
Joel Ventura did quite a detailed article on Prist
etc here:
Bill
Note: Prist wont stop carb ice, which comes out
of the atmosphere. Prist deals with water already in
suspension within the fuel.
On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 03:58,
Keith Welsh < klw544@...> wrote:
Hi again,
All your comments, experiences and knowledge no doubt
turned out to be a real education. I don’t know about
y’all but icing is normally not a discussion item. I’m
glad I took the chance to post the article. Learned more
than I thought I would. And thank you all for “Your
Opinions”
I must admit I was hoping for some info regarding the
use of Prist. I did actually use it in the Quickie for a
time. Reckon it did ok..that was several years ago. My Q
does not have carb heat nor does the carb have access to
outside air, only hot air off the engine and is why the
interest in the Teflon coating. The carb on the newer
Onan sets higher so to accommodate a new heat box I would
need to make a new cowl bump....like that was gonna
happen! Not surprised no one had much to say about it.
Like Jay I’m sure ice will form Teflon or not but I’ve
never used a Teflon coated anything that anything would
stick to it. I once froze water in both a steel pan and a
Teflon one. Guess which one the ice slid out of. The
steel pan had ice remnants sticking to it after most was
chipped out. Yeah, pretty unscientific but.... Think
about your plastic ice server bucket when guest come over,
the ice sticks to everything even fingers. At least
modern technology has provided us with some options.
Thanks again,
Keith
--
|
|
Hi Kieth,
You wrote: << I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist. >>
Joel Ventura did quite a detailed article on Prist etc here:
Bill
Note: Prist wont stop carb ice, which comes out of the atmosphere. Prist deals with water already in suspension within the fuel.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Mon, 4 Jan 2021 at 03:58, Keith Welsh < klw544@...> wrote: Hi again,
All your comments, experiences and knowledge no doubt turned out to be a real education. I don’t know about y’all but icing is normally not a discussion item. I’m glad I took the chance to post the article. Learned more than I thought I would. And thank you all for “Your Opinions”
I must admit I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist. I did actually use it in the Quickie for a time. Reckon it did ok..that was several years ago. My Q does not have carb heat nor does the carb have access to outside air, only hot air off the engine and is why the interest in the Teflon coating. The carb on the newer Onan sets higher so to accommodate a new heat box I would need to make a new cowl bump....like that was gonna happen! Not surprised no one had much to say about it.
Like Jay I’m sure ice will form Teflon or not but I’ve never used a Teflon coated anything that anything would stick to it. I once froze water in both a steel pan and a Teflon one. Guess which one the ice slid out of. The steel pan had ice remnants sticking to it after most was chipped out. Yeah, pretty unscientific but.... Think about your plastic ice server bucket when guest come over, the ice sticks to everything even fingers. At least modern technology has provided us with some options.
Thanks again,
Keith
|
|
Hi again,
All your comments, experiences and knowledge no doubt turned out to be a real education. I don’t know about y’all but icing is normally not a discussion item. I’m glad I took the chance to post the article. Learned more than I thought I would. And thank you all for “Your Opinions”
I must admit I was hoping for some info regarding the use of Prist. I did actually use it in the Quickie for a time. Reckon it did ok..that was several years ago. My Q does not have carb heat nor does the carb have access to outside air, only hot air off the engine and is why the interest in the Teflon coating. The carb on the newer Onan sets higher so to accommodate a new heat box I would need to make a new cowl bump....like that was gonna happen! Not surprised no one had much to say about it.
Like Jay I’m sure ice will form Teflon or not but I’ve never used a Teflon coated anything that anything would stick to it. I once froze water in both a steel pan and a Teflon one. Guess which one the ice slid out of. The steel pan had ice remnants sticking to it after most was chipped out. Yeah, pretty unscientific but.... Think about your plastic ice server bucket when guest come over, the ice sticks to everything even fingers. At least modern technology has provided us with some options.
Thanks again,
Keith
Please note: message attached
From: "Mike Dwyer " <q200pilot@...> To: main@q-list.groups.io Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 17:00:40 -0500
|
|
Re: Cutting control cable

John Hoxie
It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io <britmcman@...> wrote: If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables. Phil On Jan 3, 2021, at 4:54 AM, Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:
Wrap it with masking tape. Use a die grinder with cutting blade. You'll use the die grinder for lots of things. Fly safe. Mike I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands?
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Re: Q-Tour Corbin Geiser Q-200 - This Saturday January 9, 9:00
#Q-Tour
No pressure Corbin! Can’t wait.
Brian
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Jan 3, 2021, at 19:57, Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins@...> wrote:
Corbin purchased a beautiful Q-200, and like most of us, he can't leave well enough alone. Join us and see this great plane and the mods that Corbin has installed and has planned.
As usual, the session will be broken into two parts.
Sam Hoskins is inviting you to a scheduled Zoom meeting.
Topic: Corbin Geiser Q-200 Q-Tour
Time: Jan 9, 2021 09:00 AM Central Time (US and Canada)
Join Zoom Meeting
https://us04web.zoom.us/j/73400227546?pwd=NGRSVWgyeEc0VHVXQ2NJU1ZnRmdQdz09
Meeting ID: 734 0022 7546
Passcode: xvuz45
<Corbin and rescue dog.jpg>
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Q-Tour Corbin Geiser Q-200 - This Saturday January 9, 9:00
#Q-Tour

Sam Hoskins
Corbin purchased a beautiful Q-200, and like most of us, he can't leave well enough alone. Join us and see this great plane and the mods that Corbin has installed and has planned.
As usual, the session will be broken into two parts.
Sam Hoskins is inviting you to a scheduled Zoom meeting. Topic: Corbin Geiser Q-200 Q-Tour
Time: Jan 9, 2021 09:00 AM Central Time (US and Canada)
Join Zoom Meeting
https://us04web.zoom.us/j/73400227546?pwd=NGRSVWgyeEc0VHVXQ2NJU1ZnRmdQdz09
Meeting ID: 734 0022 7546
Passcode: xvuz45
|
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Earnest Martin <MartinErni@...>
Arden is in the suburbs of Asheville
Earnest Martin 40 Glen Cove Drive Arden NC 28704-3219 828-230-5378 martinerni@...
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
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Jerry Marstall <jnmarstall@...>
You know how much I wish I was there to help. 
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: Paul Fisher <rv7a.n18pf@...> Date: 1/3/21 5:13 PM (GMT-05:00) To: main@q-list.groups.io Subject: Re: [Q-List] Sunshine
I just got home. While I was gone it looks like we got 8-10 inches of snow followed by about 1/4 inch of ice and then the whole thing froze solid. I just spent an hour on the driveway and it isn't anywhere near done yet. I can't imagine what the hangar looks like! I suspect my first flight of the year won't be for a few weeks!! January in Iowa is not known for a lot of melting days...
Paul Fisher Q-200, N17PF
On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 9:34 AM Bruce Crain < jcrain2@...> wrote: I would say move to Oklahoma but we just had a snow storm move through. Hope the banana crop is ok! Bruce On Jan 2, 2021, at 9:06 PM, Kevin Boddicker <trumanst@...> wrote:
Caian't See!!!
So, what's the problem?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 1/2/21 5:33 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: [Q-List] Sunshine
THIS is 31°F and sunshine. Well at least that is what they forecast. Good news is tomorrow is supposed to be as beautiful as today.
It’ll get better, someday.
If you got um, fly um!!!!
<IMG_2857.jpeg>
Kevin Boddicker TriQ 200 N7868B 548 hrs Luana, IA.
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I just got home. While I was gone it looks like we got 8-10 inches of snow followed by about 1/4 inch of ice and then the whole thing froze solid. I just spent an hour on the driveway and it isn't anywhere near done yet. I can't imagine what the hangar looks like! I suspect my first flight of the year won't be for a few weeks!! January in Iowa is not known for a lot of melting days...
Paul Fisher Q-200, N17PF
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 9:34 AM Bruce Crain < jcrain2@...> wrote: I would say move to Oklahoma but we just had a snow storm move through. Hope the banana crop is ok! Bruce On Jan 2, 2021, at 9:06 PM, Kevin Boddicker <trumanst@...> wrote:
Caian't See!!!
So, what's the problem?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 1/2/21 5:33 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: [Q-List] Sunshine
THIS is 31°F and sunshine. Well at least that is what they forecast. Good news is tomorrow is supposed to be as beautiful as today.
It’ll get better, someday.
If you got um, fly um!!!!
<IMG_2857.jpeg>
Kevin Boddicker TriQ 200 N7868B 548 hrs Luana, IA.
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So I fly at 27C alot and it's 80% humidity much of the time. That's a 20C dew point. On the graph, I'm in the "Serious Icing" virtually all the time! Am I the only Q pilot with a humidity gauge on my panel?
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Updraft, downdraft, - it doesn’t matter. What matters is the relative humidity and air temperature, combined with the carburettors venturi effect and the LHE of the fuel, as below; On Sun, 3 Jan 2021 at 22:23, Jay Scheevel < jay@...> wrote: Good points, Bill. I wonder if the EZ’s are not more prone to icing due to the updraft cooling, which puts the coolest air in the bottom half of the cowl? Your thoughts? Cheers, Jay From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bill Allen Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 12:15 PM To: main@q-list.groups.io Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion “Carb” Ice on any engine using petroleum spirit with a Venturi metering device is a silent killer which doesn’t get the attention it deserves. Most folk don't ever test to see if their “carb heat” system meets the requirements of FAR 23.1093 (90f rise in intake aIr temp 65% at OAT of 30f) If the engine quits because of carb ice, you’re going down, - and what’s more, the evidence of the cause of the failure will have melted away by the time any accident investigator gets there. I’ve lost count of the numbers of people that have crashed due to carb ice/inadequate heat/unused carb heat, and believe that it’s the most dangerous thing on a Continental 0-200/0-240 which are otherwise a great engines. I have a wrecked LongEz in my shop now (Continental 0-240) which was caused by a poor carb heat system, See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/236048 A friend wrecked his LongEz, and was badly injured, due to not fully using carb heat; See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/213001 Another friend had icing induced engine failure , and found a big tree in the field fate selected for him, which killed him; https://www.irishtimes.com/news/ireland/irish-news/aircraft-crashed-after-engine-cut-out-due-to-ice-inquest-hears-1.3407962 If you can't afford fuel injection, get carb heat muffs on headers both sides and make sure you get the heat rises called for in the FARs - it’s one of those regs that's “written in blood”. And don't be shy about using heat all the way down to touchdown, and warming the engine every 500ft - those pipes don't have much thermal mass and quickly lose the ability to heat the air adequately. Another thing I’ve noticed about fixed wing pilots is that many apply carb heat as if they were doing harm to the engine, and thus dont seem to like leaving it on. While it’s true that max power is with cold air, you only need that on a climb out. So I’m puzzled when a pilot selects carb heat on the downwind, then turns it off on finals, just when going through the most vulnerable phase of the approach. If you believe that carb heat harms the engine in some way, keep in mind that all Robinson R22 helicopters (Lycoming 0-320/360) run with carb heat on all the time (unless you live in the desert of course...) Fly safe, and land with heat :^) Bill Allen Agreed...love not worrying about carb ice!
On Jan 3, 2021, at 11:09 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:
Martin, Where did your Tri-Q end up? Cheers, Jay I had it once very bad just as I was about to head over the mountains. It was in the TriQ200. 70 degree day also. Tried everything else first as I really did not expect the issue to be ice. I turned back toward the valley and pulled the carb heat. The engine sputtered for a bit then roared back to life. I had a cold air ram system into the carb for max performance. The 0200 is famous for carb ice so I recommend NEVER flying without a working carb heat! Unless you have fuel injection like Corbin!! On Jan 2, 2021, at 7:54 AM, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
I hope y'all had a great bringing in of the new year. I've attached an article I read about once every five years or so regarding carb icing. We all know about carb ice and the danger it poses. I experienced it years ago in my then Aeronca Chief when, in the summer, the engine stopped producing power on final. At least it would not throttle up when flaring to land and stopped on touchdown. After setting a bit she started just fine...by hand propping of course. The highlighted area toward the end of the article gets my curiosity up and is what I would like your opinions on since many of you are much smarter than I. The reason for asking is that somewhere in the 90's I had the throttle shaft, throttle plate and intake manifold teflon coated on my Quickie and this article is where it all started. One hot humid day back then while looking down the carburetor with the engine running I was surprised at the amount of water that was forming on the throttle plate, the size of the droplets and the time it took for them to run off. Onan carbs are on the top of the engine as most know. After the Teflon coating was done the water still formed but with a notable difference. The droplets were miniature sized and it was like a contest to see who could run off the throttle plate first. Very impressive. I've never sought the opinion of others regarding this article but knowing the breath of knowledge among you Q guys I thought I'd reach out and see. Thanks for taking the time. <INDUCTION ICING STUDY.doc>
--
Corbin N33QR
--
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|
Also, FYI, Ben Ellison made some videos of his TBI and at the 4m46s point you can see ice formation in a carburettor here;
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Updraft, downdraft, - it doesn’t matter. What matters is the relative humidity and air temperature, combined with the carburettors venturi effect and the LHE of the fuel, as below; On Sun, 3 Jan 2021 at 22:23, Jay Scheevel < jay@...> wrote: Good points, Bill. I wonder if the EZ’s are not more prone to icing due to the updraft cooling, which puts the coolest air in the bottom half of the cowl? Your thoughts? Cheers, Jay From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bill Allen Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 12:15 PM To: main@q-list.groups.io Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion “Carb” Ice on any engine using petroleum spirit with a Venturi metering device is a silent killer which doesn’t get the attention it deserves. Most folk don't ever test to see if their “carb heat” system meets the requirements of FAR 23.1093 (90f rise in intake aIr temp 65% at OAT of 30f) If the engine quits because of carb ice, you’re going down, - and what’s more, the evidence of the cause of the failure will have melted away by the time any accident investigator gets there. I’ve lost count of the numbers of people that have crashed due to carb ice/inadequate heat/unused carb heat, and believe that it’s the most dangerous thing on a Continental 0-200/0-240 which are otherwise a great engines. I have a wrecked LongEz in my shop now (Continental 0-240) which was caused by a poor carb heat system, See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/236048 A friend wrecked his LongEz, and was badly injured, due to not fully using carb heat; See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/213001 Another friend had icing induced engine failure , and found a big tree in the field fate selected for him, which killed him; https://www.irishtimes.com/news/ireland/irish-news/aircraft-crashed-after-engine-cut-out-due-to-ice-inquest-hears-1.3407962 If you can't afford fuel injection, get carb heat muffs on headers both sides and make sure you get the heat rises called for in the FARs - it’s one of those regs that's “written in blood”. And don't be shy about using heat all the way down to touchdown, and warming the engine every 500ft - those pipes don't have much thermal mass and quickly lose the ability to heat the air adequately. Another thing I’ve noticed about fixed wing pilots is that many apply carb heat as if they were doing harm to the engine, and thus dont seem to like leaving it on. While it’s true that max power is with cold air, you only need that on a climb out. So I’m puzzled when a pilot selects carb heat on the downwind, then turns it off on finals, just when going through the most vulnerable phase of the approach. If you believe that carb heat harms the engine in some way, keep in mind that all Robinson R22 helicopters (Lycoming 0-320/360) run with carb heat on all the time (unless you live in the desert of course...) Fly safe, and land with heat :^) Bill Allen Agreed...love not worrying about carb ice!
On Jan 3, 2021, at 11:09 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:
Martin, Where did your Tri-Q end up? Cheers, Jay I had it once very bad just as I was about to head over the mountains. It was in the TriQ200. 70 degree day also. Tried everything else first as I really did not expect the issue to be ice. I turned back toward the valley and pulled the carb heat. The engine sputtered for a bit then roared back to life. I had a cold air ram system into the carb for max performance. The 0200 is famous for carb ice so I recommend NEVER flying without a working carb heat! Unless you have fuel injection like Corbin!! On Jan 2, 2021, at 7:54 AM, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
I hope y'all had a great bringing in of the new year. I've attached an article I read about once every five years or so regarding carb icing. We all know about carb ice and the danger it poses. I experienced it years ago in my then Aeronca Chief when, in the summer, the engine stopped producing power on final. At least it would not throttle up when flaring to land and stopped on touchdown. After setting a bit she started just fine...by hand propping of course. The highlighted area toward the end of the article gets my curiosity up and is what I would like your opinions on since many of you are much smarter than I. The reason for asking is that somewhere in the 90's I had the throttle shaft, throttle plate and intake manifold teflon coated on my Quickie and this article is where it all started. One hot humid day back then while looking down the carburetor with the engine running I was surprised at the amount of water that was forming on the throttle plate, the size of the droplets and the time it took for them to run off. Onan carbs are on the top of the engine as most know. After the Teflon coating was done the water still formed but with a notable difference. The droplets were miniature sized and it was like a contest to see who could run off the throttle plate first. Very impressive. I've never sought the opinion of others regarding this article but knowing the breath of knowledge among you Q guys I thought I'd reach out and see. Thanks for taking the time. <INDUCTION ICING STUDY.doc>
--
Corbin N33QR
--
|
|
Updraft, downdraft, - it doesn’t matter. What matters is the relative humidity and air temperature, combined with the carburettors venturi effect and the LHE of the fuel, as below;
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Sun, 3 Jan 2021 at 22:23, Jay Scheevel < jay@...> wrote: Good points, Bill. I wonder if the EZ’s are not more prone to icing due to the updraft cooling, which puts the coolest air in the bottom half of the cowl? Your thoughts? Cheers, Jay From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bill Allen Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 12:15 PM To: main@q-list.groups.io Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion “Carb” Ice on any engine using petroleum spirit with a Venturi metering device is a silent killer which doesn’t get the attention it deserves. Most folk don't ever test to see if their “carb heat” system meets the requirements of FAR 23.1093 (90f rise in intake aIr temp 65% at OAT of 30f) If the engine quits because of carb ice, you’re going down, - and what’s more, the evidence of the cause of the failure will have melted away by the time any accident investigator gets there. I’ve lost count of the numbers of people that have crashed due to carb ice/inadequate heat/unused carb heat, and believe that it’s the most dangerous thing on a Continental 0-200/0-240 which are otherwise a great engines. I have a wrecked LongEz in my shop now (Continental 0-240) which was caused by a poor carb heat system, See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/236048 A friend wrecked his LongEz, and was badly injured, due to not fully using carb heat; See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/213001 Another friend had icing induced engine failure , and found a big tree in the field fate selected for him, which killed him; https://www.irishtimes.com/news/ireland/irish-news/aircraft-crashed-after-engine-cut-out-due-to-ice-inquest-hears-1.3407962 If you can't afford fuel injection, get carb heat muffs on headers both sides and make sure you get the heat rises called for in the FARs - it’s one of those regs that's “written in blood”. And don't be shy about using heat all the way down to touchdown, and warming the engine every 500ft - those pipes don't have much thermal mass and quickly lose the ability to heat the air adequately. Another thing I’ve noticed about fixed wing pilots is that many apply carb heat as if they were doing harm to the engine, and thus dont seem to like leaving it on. While it’s true that max power is with cold air, you only need that on a climb out. So I’m puzzled when a pilot selects carb heat on the downwind, then turns it off on finals, just when going through the most vulnerable phase of the approach. If you believe that carb heat harms the engine in some way, keep in mind that all Robinson R22 helicopters (Lycoming 0-320/360) run with carb heat on all the time (unless you live in the desert of course...) Fly safe, and land with heat :^) Bill Allen Agreed...love not worrying about carb ice!
On Jan 3, 2021, at 11:09 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:
Martin, Where did your Tri-Q end up? Cheers, Jay I had it once very bad just as I was about to head over the mountains. It was in the TriQ200. 70 degree day also. Tried everything else first as I really did not expect the issue to be ice. I turned back toward the valley and pulled the carb heat. The engine sputtered for a bit then roared back to life. I had a cold air ram system into the carb for max performance. The 0200 is famous for carb ice so I recommend NEVER flying without a working carb heat! Unless you have fuel injection like Corbin!! On Jan 2, 2021, at 7:54 AM, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
I hope y'all had a great bringing in of the new year. I've attached an article I read about once every five years or so regarding carb icing. We all know about carb ice and the danger it poses. I experienced it years ago in my then Aeronca Chief when, in the summer, the engine stopped producing power on final. At least it would not throttle up when flaring to land and stopped on touchdown. After setting a bit she started just fine...by hand propping of course. The highlighted area toward the end of the article gets my curiosity up and is what I would like your opinions on since many of you are much smarter than I. The reason for asking is that somewhere in the 90's I had the throttle shaft, throttle plate and intake manifold teflon coated on my Quickie and this article is where it all started. One hot humid day back then while looking down the carburetor with the engine running I was surprised at the amount of water that was forming on the throttle plate, the size of the droplets and the time it took for them to run off. Onan carbs are on the top of the engine as most know. After the Teflon coating was done the water still formed but with a notable difference. The droplets were miniature sized and it was like a contest to see who could run off the throttle plate first. Very impressive. I've never sought the opinion of others regarding this article but knowing the breath of knowledge among you Q guys I thought I'd reach out and see. Thanks for taking the time. <INDUCTION ICING STUDY.doc>
--
Corbin N33QR
|
|

Jay Scheevel
Good points, Bill. I wonder if the EZ’s are not more prone to icing due to the updraft cooling, which puts the coolest air in the bottom half of the cowl? Your thoughts? Cheers, Jay
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bill Allen Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 12:15 PM To: main@q-list.groups.io Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion “Carb” Ice on any engine using petroleum spirit with a Venturi metering device is a silent killer which doesn’t get the attention it deserves. Most folk don't ever test to see if their “carb heat” system meets the requirements of FAR 23.1093 (90f rise in intake aIr temp 65% at OAT of 30f) If the engine quits because of carb ice, you’re going down, - and what’s more, the evidence of the cause of the failure will have melted away by the time any accident investigator gets there. I’ve lost count of the numbers of people that have crashed due to carb ice/inadequate heat/unused carb heat, and believe that it’s the most dangerous thing on a Continental 0-200/0-240 which are otherwise a great engines. I have a wrecked LongEz in my shop now (Continental 0-240) which was caused by a poor carb heat system, See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/236048 A friend wrecked his LongEz, and was badly injured, due to not fully using carb heat; See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/213001 Another friend had icing induced engine failure , and found a big tree in the field fate selected for him, which killed him; https://www.irishtimes.com/news/ireland/irish-news/aircraft-crashed-after-engine-cut-out-due-to-ice-inquest-hears-1.3407962 If you can't afford fuel injection, get carb heat muffs on headers both sides and make sure you get the heat rises called for in the FARs - it’s one of those regs that's “written in blood”. And don't be shy about using heat all the way down to touchdown, and warming the engine every 500ft - those pipes don't have much thermal mass and quickly lose the ability to heat the air adequately. Another thing I’ve noticed about fixed wing pilots is that many apply carb heat as if they were doing harm to the engine, and thus dont seem to like leaving it on. While it’s true that max power is with cold air, you only need that on a climb out. So I’m puzzled when a pilot selects carb heat on the downwind, then turns it off on finals, just when going through the most vulnerable phase of the approach. If you believe that carb heat harms the engine in some way, keep in mind that all Robinson R22 helicopters (Lycoming 0-320/360) run with carb heat on all the time (unless you live in the desert of course...) Fly safe, and land with heat :^) Bill Allen Agreed...love not worrying about carb ice!
On Jan 3, 2021, at 11:09 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:
Martin, Where did your Tri-Q end up? Cheers, Jay I had it once very bad just as I was about to head over the mountains. It was in the TriQ200. 70 degree day also. Tried everything else first as I really did not expect the issue to be ice. I turned back toward the valley and pulled the carb heat. The engine sputtered for a bit then roared back to life. I had a cold air ram system into the carb for max performance. The 0200 is famous for carb ice so I recommend NEVER flying without a working carb heat! Unless you have fuel injection like Corbin!! On Jan 2, 2021, at 7:54 AM, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
I hope y'all had a great bringing in of the new year. I've attached an article I read about once every five years or so regarding carb icing. We all know about carb ice and the danger it poses. I experienced it years ago in my then Aeronca Chief when, in the summer, the engine stopped producing power on final. At least it would not throttle up when flaring to land and stopped on touchdown. After setting a bit she started just fine...by hand propping of course. The highlighted area toward the end of the article gets my curiosity up and is what I would like your opinions on since many of you are much smarter than I. The reason for asking is that somewhere in the 90's I had the throttle shaft, throttle plate and intake manifold teflon coated on my Quickie and this article is where it all started. One hot humid day back then while looking down the carburetor with the engine running I was surprised at the amount of water that was forming on the throttle plate, the size of the droplets and the time it took for them to run off. Onan carbs are on the top of the engine as most know. After the Teflon coating was done the water still formed but with a notable difference. The droplets were miniature sized and it was like a contest to see who could run off the throttle plate first. Very impressive. I've never sought the opinion of others regarding this article but knowing the breath of knowledge among you Q guys I thought I'd reach out and see. Thanks for taking the time. <INDUCTION ICING STUDY.doc>
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Corbin N33QR
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Dragonfly Russell
Fantastic perspective, Bill. Thanks for sharing!
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On Jan 3, 2021, at 1:15 PM, Bill Allen <billallensworld@...> wrote:
“Carb” Ice on any engine using petroleum spirit with a Venturi metering device is a silent killer which doesn’t get the attention it deserves. Most folk don't ever test to see if their “carb heat” system meets the requirements of FAR 23.1093 (90f rise in intake aIr temp 65% at OAT of 30f) If the engine quits because of carb ice, you’re going down, - and what’s more, the evidence of the cause of the failure will have melted away by the time any accident investigator gets there. I’ve lost count of the numbers of people that have crashed due to carb ice/inadequate heat/unused carb heat, and believe that it’s the most dangerous thing on a Continental 0-200/0-240 which are otherwise a great engines. I have a wrecked LongEz in my shop now (Continental 0-240) which was caused by a poor carb heat system, See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/236048 A friend wrecked his LongEz, and was badly injured, due to not fully using carb heat; See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/213001 Another friend had icing induced engine failure , and found a big tree in the field fate selected for him, which killed him; https://www.irishtimes.com/news/ireland/irish-news/aircraft-crashed-after-engine-cut-out-due-to-ice-inquest-hears-1.3407962 If you can't afford fuel injection, get carb heat muffs on headers both sides and make sure you get the heat rises called for in the FARs - it’s one of those regs that's “written in blood”. And don't be shy about using heat all the way down to touchdown, and warming the engine every 500ft - those pipes don't have much thermal mass and quickly lose the ability to heat the air adequately. Another thing I’ve noticed about fixed wing pilots is that many apply carb heat as if they were doing harm to the engine, and thus dont seem to like leaving it on. While it’s true that max power is with cold air, you only need that on a climb out. So I’m puzzled when a pilot selects carb heat on the downwind, then turns it off on finals, just when going through the most vulnerable phase of the approach. If you believe that carb heat harms the engine in some way, keep in mind that all Robinson R22 helicopters (Lycoming 0-320/360) run with carb heat on all the time (unless you live in the desert of course...) Fly safe, and land with heat :^) Bill Allen Agreed...love not worrying about carb ice! Corbin On Jan 3, 2021, at 11:09 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:
Martin, Where did your Tri-Q end up? Cheers, Jay I had it once very bad just as I was about to head over the mountains. It was in the TriQ200. 70 degree day also. Tried everything else first as I really did not expect the issue to be ice. I turned back toward the valley and pulled the carb heat. The engine sputtered for a bit then roared back to life. I had a cold air ram system into the carb for max performance. The 0200 is famous for carb ice so I recommend NEVER flying without a working carb heat! Unless you have fuel injection like Corbin!!
On Jan 2, 2021, at 7:54 AM, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
I hope y'all had a great bringing in of the new year. I've attached an article I read about once every five years or so regarding carb icing. We all know about carb ice and the danger it poses. I experienced it years ago in my then Aeronca Chief when, in the summer, the engine stopped producing power on final. At least it would not throttle up when flaring to land and stopped on touchdown. After setting a bit she started just fine...by hand propping of course. The highlighted area toward the end of the article gets my curiosity up and is what I would like your opinions on since many of you are much smarter than I. The reason for asking is that somewhere in the 90's I had the throttle shaft, throttle plate and intake manifold teflon coated on my Quickie and this article is where it all started. One hot humid day back then while looking down the carburetor with the engine running I was surprised at the amount of water that was forming on the throttle plate, the size of the droplets and the time it took for them to run off. Onan carbs are on the top of the engine as most know. After the Teflon coating was done the water still formed but with a notable difference. The droplets were miniature sized and it was like a contest to see who could run off the throttle plate first. Very impressive. I've never sought the opinion of others regarding this article but knowing the breath of knowledge among you Q guys I thought I'd reach out and see. Thanks for taking the time. <INDUCTION ICING STUDY.doc>
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Corbin N33QR
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“Carb” Ice on any engine using petroleum spirit with a Venturi metering device is a silent killer which doesn’t get the attention it deserves. Most folk don't ever test to see if their “carb heat” system meets the requirements of FAR 23.1093 (90f rise in intake aIr temp 65% at OAT of 30f) If the engine quits because of carb ice, you’re going down, - and what’s more, the evidence of the cause of the failure will have melted away by the time any accident investigator gets there. I’ve lost count of the numbers of people that have crashed due to carb ice/inadequate heat/unused carb heat, and believe that it’s the most dangerous thing on a Continental 0-200/0-240 which are otherwise a great engines. I have a wrecked LongEz in my shop now (Continental 0-240) which was caused by a poor carb heat system, See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/236048 A friend wrecked his LongEz, and was badly injured, due to not fully using carb heat; See https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/213001 Another friend had icing induced engine failure , and found a big tree in the field fate selected for him, which killed him; https://www.irishtimes.com/news/ireland/irish-news/aircraft-crashed-after-engine-cut-out-due-to-ice-inquest-hears-1.3407962 If you can't afford fuel injection, get carb heat muffs on headers both sides and make sure you get the heat rises called for in the FARs - it’s one of those regs that's “written in blood”. And don't be shy about using heat all the way down to touchdown, and warming the engine every 500ft - those pipes don't have much thermal mass and quickly lose the ability to heat the air adequately. Another thing I’ve noticed about fixed wing pilots is that many apply carb heat as if they were doing harm to the engine, and thus dont seem to like leaving it on. While it’s true that max power is with cold air, you only need that on a climb out. So I’m puzzled when a pilot selects carb heat on the downwind, then turns it off on finals, just when going through the most vulnerable phase of the approach. If you believe that carb heat harms the engine in some way, keep in mind that all Robinson R22 helicopters (Lycoming 0-320/360) run with carb heat on all the time (unless you live in the desert of course...) Fly safe, and land with heat :^) Bill Allen
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Agreed...love not worrying about carb ice! Corbin On Jan 3, 2021, at 11:09 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:
Martin, Where did your Tri-Q end up? Cheers, Jay I had it once very bad just as I was about to head over the mountains. It was in the TriQ200. 70 degree day also. Tried everything else first as I really did not expect the issue to be ice. I turned back toward the valley and pulled the carb heat. The engine sputtered for a bit then roared back to life. I had a cold air ram system into the carb for max performance. The 0200 is famous for carb ice so I recommend NEVER flying without a working carb heat! Unless you have fuel injection like Corbin!!
On Jan 2, 2021, at 7:54 AM, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
I hope y'all had a great bringing in of the new year. I've attached an article I read about once every five years or so regarding carb icing. We all know about carb ice and the danger it poses. I experienced it years ago in my then Aeronca Chief when, in the summer, the engine stopped producing power on final. At least it would not throttle up when flaring to land and stopped on touchdown. After setting a bit she started just fine...by hand propping of course. The highlighted area toward the end of the article gets my curiosity up and is what I would like your opinions on since many of you are much smarter than I. The reason for asking is that somewhere in the 90's I had the throttle shaft, throttle plate and intake manifold teflon coated on my Quickie and this article is where it all started. One hot humid day back then while looking down the carburetor with the engine running I was surprised at the amount of water that was forming on the throttle plate, the size of the droplets and the time it took for them to run off. Onan carbs are on the top of the engine as most know. After the Teflon coating was done the water still formed but with a notable difference. The droplets were miniature sized and it was like a contest to see who could run off the throttle plate first. Very impressive. I've never sought the opinion of others regarding this article but knowing the breath of knowledge among you Q guys I thought I'd reach out and see. Thanks for taking the time. <INDUCTION ICING STUDY.doc>
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Corbin N33QR
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We traded it for a Long EZE. My son flew the TriQ out to Missouri and the Long EZE back. We are rebuilding the Long now. Almost done. I miss the TriQ, but the Long EZE will be better for my son at this point fir travel.
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On Jan 3, 2021, at 10:13 AM, Corbin via groups.io <c_geiser@...> wrote:
Agreed...love not worrying about carb ice! Corbin On Jan 3, 2021, at 11:09 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:
Martin, Where did your Tri-Q end up? Cheers, Jay From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Martin Skiby Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 9:39 AM To: main@q-list.groups.io Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion I had it once very bad just as I was about to head over the mountains. It was in the TriQ200. 70 degree day also. Tried everything else first as I really did not expect the issue to be ice. I turned back toward the valley and pulled the carb heat. The engine sputtered for a bit then roared back to life. I had a cold air ram system into the carb for max performance. The 0200 is famous for carb ice so I recommend NEVER flying without a working carb heat! Unless you have fuel injection like Corbin!!
On Jan 2, 2021, at 7:54 AM, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
I hope y'all had a great bringing in of the new year. I've attached an article I read about once every five years or so regarding carb icing. We all know about carb ice and the danger it poses. I experienced it years ago in my then Aeronca Chief when, in the summer, the engine stopped producing power on final. At least it would not throttle up when flaring to land and stopped on touchdown. After setting a bit she started just fine...by hand propping of course. The highlighted area toward the end of the article gets my curiosity up and is what I would like your opinions on since many of you are much smarter than I. The reason for asking is that somewhere in the 90's I had the throttle shaft, throttle plate and intake manifold teflon coated on my Quickie and this article is where it all started. One hot humid day back then while looking down the carburetor with the engine running I was surprised at the amount of water that was forming on the throttle plate, the size of the droplets and the time it took for them to run off. Onan carbs are on the top of the engine as most know. After the Teflon coating was done the water still formed but with a notable difference. The droplets were miniature sized and it was like a contest to see who could run off the throttle plate first. Very impressive. I've never sought the opinion of others regarding this article but knowing the breath of knowledge among you Q guys I thought I'd reach out and see. Thanks for taking the time. <INDUCTION ICING STUDY.doc>
-- Corbin N33QR
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Re: Cutting control cable

britmcman99
If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables. Phil
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Jan 3, 2021, at 4:54 AM, Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:
Wrap it with masking tape. Use a die grinder with cutting blade. You'll use the die grinder for lots of things. Fly safe. Mike I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands?
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Jim Patillo
Fellas,
I’ve only had carb ice in my 0200A a couple times over 20 years of flight, which I found interesting. I typically do not use carb heat on landing (not a recommendation by me, your findings may vary). I also have a 4:1 header.
Only had vapor lock one time during an airshow. Took the gascolator off, rerouted the fuel line so it did not pass near the oil tank and never had the problem again.
About ready to head the Q back to the Bay Area for two days. Safe flying to you all.
Jim
N46JP Q200
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From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> on behalf of Corbin via groups.io <c_geiser@...>
Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2021 10:13:53 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io <main@q-list.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion
Agreed...love not worrying about carb ice!
Corbin
On Jan 3, 2021, at 11:09 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:
Martin,
Where did your Tri-Q end up?
Cheers,
Jay
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Martin Skiby
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 9:39 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion
I had it once very bad just as I was about to head over the mountains. It was in the TriQ200. 70 degree day also. Tried everything else first as I really did not expect the issue to be ice. I turned back toward the valley and pulled
the carb heat. The engine sputtered for a bit then roared back to life.
I had a cold air ram system into the carb for max performance. The 0200 is famous for carb ice so I recommend NEVER flying without a working carb heat! Unless you have fuel injection like Corbin!!
On Jan 2, 2021, at 7:54 AM, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
I hope y'all had a great bringing in of the new year.
I've attached an article I read about once every five years or so regarding carb icing.
We all know about carb ice and the danger it poses. I experienced it years ago in my then Aeronca Chief when, in the summer, the engine stopped producing power on final. At least it would not throttle up when flaring to land and stopped
on touchdown. After setting a bit she started just fine...by hand propping of course.
The highlighted area toward the end of the article gets my curiosity up and is what I would like your opinions on since many of you are much smarter than I.
The reason for asking is that somewhere in the 90's I had the throttle shaft, throttle plate and intake manifold teflon coated on my Quickie and this article is where it all started.
One hot humid day back then while looking down the carburetor with the engine running I was surprised at the amount of water that was forming on the throttle plate, the size of the droplets and the time it took for them to run off. Onan
carbs are on the top of the engine as most know.
After the Teflon coating was done the water still formed but with a notable difference. The droplets were miniature sized and it was like a contest to see who could run off the throttle plate first. Very impressive.
I've never sought the opinion of others regarding this article but knowing the breath of knowledge among you Q guys I thought I'd reach out and see.
Thanks for taking the time.
<INDUCTION ICING STUDY.doc>
--
Corbin
N33QR
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Agreed...love not worrying about carb ice! Corbin
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On Jan 3, 2021, at 11:09 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:
Martin, Where did your Tri-Q end up? Cheers, Jay From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Martin Skiby Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 9:39 AM To: main@q-list.groups.io Subject: Re: [Q-List] Your Opinion I had it once very bad just as I was about to head over the mountains. It was in the TriQ200. 70 degree day also. Tried everything else first as I really did not expect the issue to be ice. I turned back toward the valley and pulled the carb heat. The engine sputtered for a bit then roared back to life. I had a cold air ram system into the carb for max performance. The 0200 is famous for carb ice so I recommend NEVER flying without a working carb heat! Unless you have fuel injection like Corbin!!
On Jan 2, 2021, at 7:54 AM, Keith Welsh <klw544@...> wrote:
I hope y'all had a great bringing in of the new year. I've attached an article I read about once every five years or so regarding carb icing. We all know about carb ice and the danger it poses. I experienced it years ago in my then Aeronca Chief when, in the summer, the engine stopped producing power on final. At least it would not throttle up when flaring to land and stopped on touchdown. After setting a bit she started just fine...by hand propping of course. The highlighted area toward the end of the article gets my curiosity up and is what I would like your opinions on since many of you are much smarter than I. The reason for asking is that somewhere in the 90's I had the throttle shaft, throttle plate and intake manifold teflon coated on my Quickie and this article is where it all started. One hot humid day back then while looking down the carburetor with the engine running I was surprised at the amount of water that was forming on the throttle plate, the size of the droplets and the time it took for them to run off. Onan carbs are on the top of the engine as most know. After the Teflon coating was done the water still formed but with a notable difference. The droplets were miniature sized and it was like a contest to see who could run off the throttle plate first. Very impressive. I've never sought the opinion of others regarding this article but knowing the breath of knowledge among you Q guys I thought I'd reach out and see. Thanks for taking the time. <INDUCTION ICING STUDY.doc>
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Corbin N33QR
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