James,
At 60 mph there was no sign of the canard lifting off. At
80mph there was no suggestion that the canard was going toift. The tail
came up, and nothing I did with the T tail or elevator made any
difference. I don't have reflexors, but the aelerons are reflexed up a
little anyway just by adjustment of the push rods. I didn't get time to
re-measure the C of G today, but I did weigh the tail with 1 PAX and
there was 60lb on the tail wheel, with the WL level. I suspect ( and I
HOPE I'm wrong) that the canard/wing angles are wrong. I'll post weights
and cofG figures tomorrow.
neil

James Postma wrote:

My experience regarding the high speed taxi is:

The critical speed for the instabililty is 40-50 mph. Taxi tests
below this
speed were benign and not of much value.

If you exceed 40 mph (airspeed indicator comes alive) reduce power and

accelerate gently to avoid a takeoff.

I did this and the nose lifted off a foot or so at 63 mph. I reduced
power
to idle without changing the stick position and it settled back with
no
adverse effects.

The important item is to reduce power as liftoff comes near so it will
not
go anywhere.

James Postma
Q2 Revmaster N145EX
Steilacoom, Washington
(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT
May your header tank be always full and your wings right side up.



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I've published a drawing while crude has good dimensions. If you do not
have access to it, I will send it to you off line.

James Postma
Q2 Revmaster N145EX
Steilacoom, Washington
(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT
May your header tank be always full and your wings right side up.

My experience regarding the high speed taxi is:

The critical speed for the instabililty is 40-50 mph. Taxi tests below this
speed were benign and not of much value.

If you exceed 40 mph (airspeed indicator comes alive) reduce power and
accelerate gently to avoid a takeoff.

I did this and the nose lifted off a foot or so at 63 mph. I reduced power
to idle without changing the stick position and it settled back with no
adverse effects.

The important item is to reduce power as liftoff comes near so it will not
go anywhere.

James Postma
Q2 Revmaster N145EX
Steilacoom, Washington
(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT
May your header tank be always full and your wings right side up.

Good going Neil. Sounds like you've got the ground handling demon under
control.

Now get that tail down. Reflexing the ailerons up (wing down) is the way to
go.

As to possible stall after liftoff - ease the stick forward as soon as the
canard lifts off and establish your desired climb speed before leaving
ground effect.

James Postma
Q2 Revmaster N145EX
Steilacoom, Washington
(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT
May your header tank be always full and your wings right side up.

In your engine is turing between 3000 to 3300 rpm would give me their Wet and Dry reading for all 4 of your cylinders?
.

Neil Jepsen------- Good to see the taxi problem is solved. If you
have the T-tail, I am assuming you have no reflexor. If this is the
case and your C of G is in the back half of the envelope, you may want
to try to reflex your ailerons up a bit to give the wing a little less
lift. Go only at small increments. Just a thought-------- Canada Chris

Jim Patillo & or Bob Farnam

I have a chronic over cooling problem with my Dragonfly/O-200. I am
curious what size your cooling inlets and outlets are. I currently am
running two 4" dia round inlets like the LoPresti or Lancair cowls, they
total 24 sq" inlet with a total of 44" outlet with cowl flap open and 12"
closed. This time of year I am running with the cowl flap closed even on
takeoff. I just came back from a flight and found the OAT of 62F running
22"mp @ 2500 rpm & 140kts my cylinder head temps are running 290 with the
oil temp at 150. My oil has been very cool since I installed the engine
and I am wondering how your inlets and outlets are sized. Two different
senders in the oil read only a couple of degrees difference. I understand I
need to run the oil temp up around 180 but even in the summertime its hard
to do with the oil cooler in-circuit. I currently have a piece of
cardboard covering the oil cooler so no air gets to it. I think the only
saving grace for the oil is that here in the desert the humidity many days
is single digit and even in the rainy season it is hard pressed to get over
50%. I am currently thinking about reducing my inlet size to about 18"
total to start with, any ideas??

Justin Mace
Tucson,AZ

The nice thing about the internet, Dave, is that it is easier to ask 45
questions on email than to do your homework and read (ohmygod) paper.

Proof

that literacy is dropping in America. Of course, the head-shrinks think

that

a great deal of Americans are suffering from lack of attention. Unlike a
book, email gets someone, somewhere to attend to you.

Yeah, it also gets YOU some attention, eh?

Jim,
Without the internet and this list, there probably wouldn't be a single
Quickie, Q2 or Q200 being built or rebuilt at this point in time. Reading
Q-talk is definitely reccommended, especially the ones that were out before
this list was established, but there is some information and knowledge
available on the net that cannot be found " on paper" no matter what you
read and some folks (other than you apparently) are willing to share even
the older info with those who request it. People can also interact with
those who have common interests and get (oh my god no!) HELP with problems,
some that are covered by Q-Talk and some that aren't.
As Pat stated, reading the parts in the original plans and old Q-Talks
that have been ammended or changed might be fun, entertaining, nostalgic, or
even informative from an evolutionary standpoint, but all this old and new
info is readily available here by just asking for help.
I wonder how most Q folk find out about the QBA, Q-Talk and the list to
begin with? I know I found out about it on Tom's QBA site and I had to read
every word of it, albeit on a computer monitor instead of on a xerox copy.
Literacy, last I checked, concerned the ability to read... whether it was
text on a monitor or ancient Sanskrit wasn't relevant.
Had I not found this group on the internet, I would not have even
considered the Q200 as there is no longer any other form of support for it.
Other than the limited forums at Oshkosh and Sun N Fun, this is the only way
for people spread out over such a great distance to come into contact and
exchange ideas (some of which you do not agree with, but that is the
advantage of this list... multiple points of view and no waiting).
My plane came with all the Q-Talk copies from the earliest to 1996 and
the interesting part is that just about all the articles deal with the same
topics, problems and rantings that I see every day on this list. I would
much rather delete all the Posa carb and Revmaster questions and save those
topics of real importance to me in a folder on my computer instead of having
a file cabinet full of mostly useless paper that outweighs my plane.
Compiling the old Q-talks on a CD would certainly be a great idea, but it
would also be a whole lot of work. Of course, it still wouldn't be on paper.
If the recurrent questions on the list bother you that much, why are you
still on it? Mike C.


----- Original Message -----
From: <JMasal@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 12:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Engine mounting bolts...

In a message dated 1/25/02 5:55:04 PM Central Standard Time,
dave@... writes:

I documented that procedure
in issue 90 of Q-Talk.

Dave

j.






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Patrick Panzera wrote:

By reading newest to oldest, you can skip the older stuff, which might
be great history to know, or even quite entertaining, but if (as I
did) you get to a part where someone has written up a great article on
a really sweet single lever for his cable operated brakes, you can
opt to skip it as it probably has little or no relevance to what you
are building or already have, or was since proven to not work well.

Hope this helps.

Pat,
This is a big help. Wish you had told me a year ago, before I read the
entire volume of Quick Talk/Q-Talk! I discovered the same thing, and now
do searches from front to back.
Larry Hamm
"SubyQ"

May want to recheck your angle of attack on the wings also.
Mike Q-200

Neil,

You're pretty lucky you didn't reach flying speed. I you become airborne
with full back stick you've got a good chance of going into pitch buck
starting from 10 ft. agl. Been there. No fun. Back stick on the elevator
does nothing to get your tail on the ground as long as your wheels are still
on the ground. This isn't a Cessna. You're better off taking off with
pretty much neutral stick on a long runway until you get some experience at
altitude. Good luck.

Brian Bulaw
N24H - Turbo Revmaster Q2 / Soon to be Jabiru 3300
150 Hours in type


I still have a problem I think. The tail wheel lifts at
about 65 - 70mph in spite of full tail-down T trim and full back stick,
and once the tail is up, it stays up until the speed drops to about 55
mph.

neil





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Some weeks ago, I reported that my Q2 was almost uncontrollable on the
ground during fast taxi ( 60 mph). Well I'm pleased to report that after
loweruing the tail wheel authority by adding 1.5" to the tailwheel
bellcrank ( on the tailwheel itself) and returning the angle of the tail
wheel hinge pin to plans angle ( at right angles to the spring and
therefore in my mind, totally at the wrong angle to the ground)
yesterday I did several 60 - 70 mph runs and at last felt as though I
could land this thing without ending up in the weeds.
However
I still have a problem I think. The tail wheel lifts at
about 65 - 70mph in spite of full tail-down T trim and full back stick,
and once the tail is up, it stays up until the speed drops to about 55
mph. I know, I know: where is my C of G I hear you ask. Well at the
last measurement, it was in the rear half of the envelope, but I will
re-measure it today, as well as measuring the angle of the wing and
cannard.
watch this pace.
neil

Thanks Dave.I'd imagine you'd need to take the rear mounting assy off
the engine. I don't have access to Q-talk.
neil

Dave Richardson wrote:

Actually, Neil, there is a way to get those lower bolts with the
heads in
the
engine compartment instead of the cockpit. I documented that
procedure
in issue 90 of Q-Talk.

Dave

----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Jepsen" <jepsen@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Engine mounting bolts...

You cant "get" the bottom bolt in any other way, than with the nut

on th

engine end. evben then its a struggle. The top bolt, I can't

remember

which end the nut is on...will have a look if you wnat. I do

remember

that at the bottom uyiou have to be careful that the spare thread
sticking out past the nut doesn't foul the crankcase, and in my

case(

revmasterA) there was only about 1/8" between bolt and crankcase.
Getting a spanner in there was a bit of a squeeze.
How are you John...how many lbs did xmas add to the girth?

"jtenhave@..." wrote:

Chris,

have a close look at the bolt, grip and see where that interacts

with

the
rest of the structure. you may find that if you reverse the
installation,
the radial loads are being borne by an unintended threaded

portion..

John

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Adkins [SMTP:ccadkins@...]
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 6:04 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Engine mounting bolts...

I've just finished reading every single Quick Talk / Q-Talk ever
published
(whew!) Not in one sitting, but WHEW! anyway!

My question to the group is this:

In one of the more recent issues of the newsletter, Dave

Richardson

outlines
the procedure for making sure the bottom two engine mounting bolts

are

oriented with the nut to the cabin side of the firewall. I

realize

that
the
plans show the bolts (top and bottom) oriented this way, and the

"bolt

head
up or into the slipstream" rule dictates this position, but why

would

we
NOT
want the nut to be forward of the firewall (castellated w/ cotter

pin)

for
quick visual inspection rather than hidden behind the spaghetti

that

most
of
us have on the cabin side of the firewall -- especially the top

two

bolts
which are mostly obscured by the header tank?

I'm just about ready to hang my Type IV, and I'm agonizing over

the

"little"
stuff. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Chris Adkins
ccadkins@...



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JMasal@... wrote:

Chris you should be a poster child for "Builder Doing It Right."

<snip>

Owning past QTALKS and even reading them all is a big committment.

My first day on the job working for a large commercial construction
company, my boss sat me down with a set of plans, the spec. book,
and a stack of addendums.

The task at hand was to read through the addendums, and transfer
the relevant information to the blueprints. So I started with the
first one. Marked the plans accordingly, photo copied paragraphs
from the addendum and taped it over the the obsolete text in the plans,
etc.

I was quite pleased with my progress as I was getting through the process,
until I came to newer addendums which superseded the older ones I had
already transferred to the plans!

So now I was removing notes that I had just spent hours adding to the
plans, adding to my head, adding to the critical path, etc.

I quickly learned my lesson, and any time after that, I read the
addendums from the newest to the oldest.

How is this relevant? Years later, when I bought my partially
complete Dragonfly, which came with volumes of newsletters, I opted
to read them from newest to oldest. This paid off in several ways,
most notably with the things like the brake system. The newest
newsletters assumed that everyone had differential toe brakes. Toward
the middle I found the first article on differential toe breaks, in
the earliest newsletters I found the the company owner claiming that
differential toe breaks will kill you.

Same for engines, later newsletters had articles on successful 0-200
installations, as I went back I read of 80hp VW engine crank failures,
further back, the 60hp engine was introduced with a warning that anything
bigger will end in death, and back at the beginning, 40hp was the
absolute limit, period.

By reading newest to oldest, you can skip the older stuff, which might
be great history to know, or even quite entertaining, but if (as I
did) you get to a part where someone has written up a great article on
a really sweet single lever for his cable operated brakes, you can
opt to skip it as it probably has little or no relevance to what you
are building or already have, or was since proven to not work well.

Hope this helps.

Pat

Jim Patillo
Was researching the files section on your Q-200.What kind of prop are
you using and what are its specs?
Thanks in advance.
CE in Southern Saskatchewan
-20°C Wind Chill -28° Snowing

Jim,

If you haven't yet got the "Old Fart" T- shirt, please let me know. I'd
be happy to buy one for you.

I may send it to you in a soap box....with a step for easy access.

Al

The nice thing about the internet, Dave, is that it is easier to ask

45

questions on email than to do your homework and read (ohmygod)
paper. Proof that literacy is dropping in America. Of course, the

head-shrinks

think that a great deal of Americans are suffering from lack of

attention.

Unlike a book, email gets someone, somewhere to attend to you.

j.

________________________________________________________________
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Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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Just to emphasize that I'm NOT one of the "guilty" Jim, I wrote:

In a message dated 1/26/02 10:56:14 AM Central Standard Time,
kittleson1@... writes:

If you haven't yet got the "Old Fart" T- shirt, please let me know. I'd
be happy to buy one for you.

I may send it to you in a soap box....with a step for easy access.

Al

I'll take... I'll take it all. I have earned it. But you should see the shirt
one of the guys wants to make for you! Yipes!

j.

In a message dated 1/26/02 9:00:05 AM Central Standard Time,
ccadkins@... writes:

I've just finished reading every single Quick Talk / Q-Talk ever
published
(whew!) Not in one sitting, but WHEW! anyway!

Chris you should be a poster child for "Builder Doing It Right." I like the
term used in corporate mergers where one company is looking over another for
a buyout : Due Diligence. This is where you find the flies in the ointment...
if any. A wise builder exercises due diligence is examining past history on
his anticipated project. "Anticipated" is a good word too. It means you do
your homework BEFORE sticking your foot into it and buying a bargain pig in a
poke.

Owning past QTALKS and even reading them all is a big committment. Even
having produced most of them I am frequently surprised over the copy machine
to read tips that have completely left my head. There is just too much stuff
in there. We ought to go to a two-pager so we can keep up. But there is still
a mass of stuff that has gone unprinted. Thanks for your due diligence... you
understand I am ony cranky about the dopes.

In a message dated 1/25/02 5:55:04 PM Central Standard Time,
dave@... writes:

I documented that procedure
in issue 90 of Q-Talk.

Dave

The nice thing about the internet, Dave, is that it is easier to ask 45
questions on email than to do your homework and read (ohmygod) paper. Proof
that literacy is dropping in America. Of course, the head-shrinks think that
a great deal of Americans are suffering from lack of attention. Unlike a
book, email gets someone, somewhere to attend to you.

j.