Just wondering if anyone has tried to embed nutplates.
I was wondering what the maximum amount of fill or flox
you can get away with. I've currently got about a 1/16th
gap between the plywood mount block and the back
keeper plate.

Dave


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All,

I haven't dug into the archives on this but it seems that zero/zero for

LS1 and 1.5/zero for the GU seems to be what the majority of folks are
using. I know there are some variations. 1.5 on the GU is a change from
plans. This is probably a great FAQ item Dave. Might be interesting to

how many folks are flying with settings other than these.

Jon Finley
N54JF - Quickie - 1835CC VW
N90MG - Q2 - EA81 Turbo Subaru
Apple Valley, MN


On Mon, 22 Jan 2001 22:48:33 -0000 "rayners" <rayners@...>
writes:

Subject: Canard/main wing rigging


Guys, I thought my request for advice got thru to the Q-list, but my
hard drive crashed just after I sent it. As I've had no response,
I'm a bit unsure, so I'm trying again.

Does anyone have advice on what the difference in incidence should
be on a Q200 with LS1 canard. The last Q-talk said 1.5 to 2.0
degrees or so, but I have heard that some guys fly very happily and
maybe more efficiently with 0 to 0.5 degrees. As I am almost at the
point of mounting the wings, some good advice would be really
welcome.

Chris Rayner

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Subject: Canard/main wing rigging

Guys, I thought my request for advice got thru to the Q-list, but my hard drive crashed just after I sent it. As I've had no response, I'm a bit unsure, so I'm trying again.

Does anyone have advice on what the difference in incidence should be on a Q200 with LS1 canard. The last Q-talk said 1.5 to 2.0 degrees or so, but I have heard that some guys fly very happily and maybe more efficiently with 0 to 0.5 degrees. As I am almost at the point of mounting the wings, some good advice would be really welcome.

Chris Rayner



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From: "George Majewski" <host@...>
To: <VW@...>
Subject: Re: hand carved prop question
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 14:07:45 -0500

I think it was on this list that one of the fellows had some sort of prop
program which told how to get the dimensions for the right propeller.

Yep, I have Bates prop software. There is slight problem however. In order to
calculate new prop the DRAG of the airplane is required. If your piet is
already flying then you can run test flight (on a borrowed prop) and from data
recorded at that flight I can calculate drag and match propeller for you. If
you are still building it and your project is "grounded" then you may ask some
volunteers flying piets to run the test for you. I will use average drag value
then and you will get maybe not exact match but close enough. The form to fill
out for that test is at http://hsweb.net/propellers/dataform.htm There is no
help or explanations of any kind yet as I am in process of putting it all
together.
Further - I have another software which uses Bates output and converts it into
G-Code used by CNC machines, so you can skip that "hand carving" part and have
your prop machined with 0.001 tolerance! Heck maybe 0.002 ??

George
host@...
New York

Mike,

How is your engine project going and what type of Prop are you going to

Also are you going to be using a reduction drive?
I like the wankle engine for various reasons but right now I am still
leaning towards and O200. My major concerns are the weight of the
Wankle and the RPM's needed to obtain the needed horsepower for the
aircraft. I do know that the engine can hum away for a very long time at
5000 + rpm.
Thanks

Jerry

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Dwyer [mailto:mdwyer@...]
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 7:12 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Rotary engine

Check out this engine. Wish they made on a little smaller....

http://www.terf.com/engine1.htm


Mike Q-200






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the elevator bell crank arrangment so the stick has two pushrods, and
the universal is removed. If I did this, I'd be able to adjust each
elevator individually to take up any roll. Might give it more thought.

neil


Larry Koutz wrote:

Neil
Sorry for the delay in answering but this is rather long!

The implications of your questions are impossible to answer. How can I

transfer to you what happened to me on my first flight. I was just
reacting
to movement of the plane trying to maintain the attitude I wanted. I
used
ALL the control input I had at times just for straight and level. I
did what
I had to and I can't even remember how much each control surface moved
or
where the stick was positioned. I have had 3 first flights like this
where
major things didn't go smoothly!!!

So I will tell you what I know from my experience with Q type planes,
I have
flown several.
1. No matter how straight the wings look- it is probably off somewhere
and
unless you have the ability to add up all errors in airfoil shape,
angles of
incidence, twist, etc.. you don't know exactly what will happen!So ya
gotta
test fly.

2. Make sure the plane handles OK on the ground. I flew around for
years
with a plane that had lousy ground handling (would oversteer and
ground loop
at 10 mph if I wasn't cautious) due to main wheel alignment problems.
I
could barely control the plane on the ground, but I did with a lot of
differential braking, aileron steering and weight on the tail wheel.
And it cost me a broken canard and could have cost more. I was just
lucky.
Now I know better. I did the "GALL ALIGNMENT" recently and ground
handling
went from
a D+ to a solid B (now I don't even think about ground handling). If
you
have a long and wide enough runway you can find out a lot of how a
plane is
going to fly (handle in pitch and roll) at
flying taxi speed and reduced power. Jim Masal wrote about this in
back
issues of Quicktalk. Try to find the article if possible. The main
point was
that the plane might lift off some but it
ain't gonna climb with not enough power. You can check control
response at
just below flying speed to uncover any rolling tendencies and roll
feel. The
same with pitch sensitivity and which flying surface wants to lift off

first. I wouldn't try full back stick (or a lot) to try to lift off
the
canard as when it does lift off (with a major elevator deflection) the
plane
tends to pitch up too high and loose lift. Then you have no elevator
authority left to keep the nose up. Bouncy, bouncy, crash! Lot of
accidents
were cause by full aft stick takeoffs and it almost got me just
recently
when I tried to lift off early and had used a lot of elevator input as
an
experiment. The natural tendency when the nose pitches up and then
starts
to come back down is to pull back on the stick more. That adds a LOT
of drag
and very little lift. I had to relax the back pressure, let the wheels

bounce then try to get a flying attitude. Without the added power of
the
O-200 I probably would have bounced again. Luckily I only got one
bouncy.

3. Ground balance- for lack of a better term. If the tailwheel gets
too
light or leaves the ground you better be going fast enough for your
rudder
to be effective or you're just a passenger. Seriously, I have taxied
a Q-2
plane that I could lift the tail wheel off the ground by moderate
braking
and the brake (only one) master cylinder had about an 18" lever arm so
it
was REAL sensitive to inputs. Weight on the tail wheel is real
important and
it is generally achieved by moving the main wheels forward.

4. Now if you feel comfortable taxiing your plane at all speeds and
you can
control it you are ready for flight. So I can answer your questions.

#1. It rolled a lot, I couldn't trim it out with my differential
elevator adjustment. I had to use two hands I got so tired. The roll
was
worse the faster I went so I went slow. I was up less than 5 minutes.

# 2. I now have differential elevator, with a roll adjustment and
roll
trim on the ailerons. I put in as much differential elevator as I
dared
(about 1/2") to get the roll under control and I have the ailerons
rubber
spring loaded to control the rest. I don't know why I originally
started
with the differential elevator. I suppose since I had engineered in a
roll
trim for the elevators it seemed natural to overcome a rolling
tendency with
the elevators. Since that didn't entirely correct the rolling I
installed an
adjustable rubber spring (bungee cord) from the outer arm of the
aileron
bellcrank (QCSA3) to a take up spool located just under the wing.
Rotate the
spool and the spring is stretched and tries to move the bellcrank.
This
spring tension offsets the aerodynamic load and gives me level flight.
Speed
doesn't seem to effect rolling so there is no trimming needed from low
to
high speed in roll once it is set. It is a real simple aileron roll
control
but it only works for controlling roll in one direction. Fine roll
control
is now done with my elevator control adjustment.

#3. about 1/2" (but your mileage may vary)

Hope this helps.

Larry

-----Original Message-----
From: Neil Jepsen <jepsen@...>
To: Q-LIST@... <Q-LIST@...>
Date: Monday, January 15, 2001 7:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Power Reduction Behavior

Larry
This leads me to several questions I have been asking

myself

about my Q2 (unflown). My Q has a slight droop in one wing, and
probably something(s) is crooked somewhere else, so I'm expecting

some

roll, but don't know how much to expect; or whether I'll find it in a

ground hop; whether to try and find it in a small hop, or just go and

do

a circuit !

1. On your test flight, how significant was the roll and how much
aileron was needed to hold her level.
2. Why differential elevator rather than a trim tab on an aileron ?
3. How much differential elevator did you end up with?

Neil

Larry Koutz wrote:

Jon
My Power reduction gives me a right YAW. My left rolling is built

into

the
airframe (not intentional but it is there) If I could

aerodynamically

correct that without the need for differential elevators I might

not

have
the Yaw.
Larry

-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Finley <finley@...>
To: Q-List <Q-LIST@...>
Date: Friday, January 12, 2001 8:40 AM
Subject: [Q-LIST] Power Reduction Behavior

Larry,

I told you previously that my Q2 had a strong right roll tendency

on

power

reduction. I spent some time this fall adjusting my rudder

(adjusted

cables

between tailwheel and rudder - I have fixed springs holding the

rudder

pedals) and was able to reduce the strength of this roll

tendency. I

noticed that I was holding a small amount of rudder at cruise

which

prompted

the adjustment. So, my right roll tendency is still there but not

as

dramatic (or strong) as what I initially reported. I should

probably

try
it

again now that the t-tail is gone (doubt it would make any

difference

but

stranger things have happened.).

Jon



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