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Re: Forward Hinged Canopy Parts
Jon,
I bought my aluminum hinges from T. J. Wright R D 5 Bx 214C Somerset, PA 15501 Ph 814-445-3802 (Advance Composite Technologies). That was 5 yrs ago and I'm not sure if he is still in that location. He also sent me the drawings that accompany the hinges. The drawings did not include a scale drawing of the hinges or the type of aluminum used. Scott Swing of Velocity might still have some parts left over from Quickie days. Also, didn't Mark Greenwood say something about having parts for the Tri Q. He could possibly have something. Let me know what you find out. If you want I could try to trace my hinges on a piece of paper and send the package (including plans) to you. Merry Christmas to the "Fine Finelys"!! Bruce Crain On Fri, 15 Dec 2000 20:16:35 -0600 "Jon Finley" <finley@...> writes: Hi all,________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. |
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Re: Forward Hinged Canopy Parts
Who is this?
Hi Jim
I think about you every time I fly my Q. Your Navaid device is the best thing I ever installed. It just puts a smile on your face. dave darlson |
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Re: Forward Hinged Canopy Parts
Who is this?
Hi Jon
I happen to have my canopy off to refinish inside. I made the arms out of plywood and covered with glass. Worked fine for 19 yrs. Ill try to get some pixks and a drawing to you. dave carlson |
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Re: Forward Hinged Canopy Parts
JCamp29966@...
Hey jon I did a forward opening canopy on my quickie,I emailed mike and asked
him if possiable to convert q-1 to foward opening he said he didnt know but he had some q-2 hinges he sent me and i made them work ,I cut canopy out like q-2 had to make some brackets where the stuts was suppose to bolt to header tank ,works good ,Getting the panel to work was whole new story but simple when looked at,turned out to be good looking ,Have pictures if you want to see jerry |
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Re: Forward Hinged Canopy Parts
Mark Greenwood <mtgreenwood@...>
John,
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I have a pair of the aluminum anodized (gold) arms and other misc. hardware (used) that I would be happy to let go of cheap. Contact me off-line. Mark ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Finley" <finley@...> To: "Q-List (E-mail)" <Q-LIST@...> Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 8:16 PM Subject: [Q-LIST] Forward Hinged Canopy Parts Hi all, |
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Re: Forward Hinged Canopy Parts
David W.S. King <KingDWS@...>
At 06:16 PM 12/15/00 , you wrote:
Hi all,Did you want the conversion drawings or just the hinge drawings? I've got the whole thing in a zip file (I think its the right one) its about 500k in size. Just ran across a article in Q-Talk 10 July/August 88. Its about converting to forward hinge. Dave P.s. Ea81 Turbo info....... |
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Re: Forward Hinged Canopy Parts
Jim Ham <jimham@...>
You can try
ftp://ftp.porcine.com/q200/ I scanned many of the plans including the forward hinged canope. Regards, Jim Ham At 06:16 PM 12/15/2000 , you wrote: Hi all,Jim Ham, Porcine Associates (650)326-2669 fax(650)326-1071 "http://www.porcine.com" |
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Re: Forward Hinged Canopy Parts
Pat Panzera <panzera@...>
Jon Finley wrote:
A few years back, Dave Morris (of Dragonfly fame) was interested in aluminum hinges for his canopy. I recommended that he make some from fiberglass, and he did just that. You may want to contact him and perhaps get some photos. Pat |
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Forward Hinged Canopy Parts
Jon Finley <finley@...>
Hi all,
Does anyone have drawings of the aluminum hinges that you could send me OR two aluminum hinges to sell OR point me to where in QBA they were documented? Anyone have any helpful tips on converting a finished plane to the forward hinge setup?? Thanks! Jon Finley N54JF Quickie - Volkswagen 1835cc N90MG Q2 - Subaru EA-81 DDT Apple Valley, Minnesota |
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Re: Black
KTSENYA2@...
Ah, yes, but the SR-71 is not painted black...Its skin has been coated black,
and not above the surface, but rather into it. Therefore, the black surface radiates effectively but does not possess the negative attributes that an overcoat of insulative paint would inflict. |
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Re: Fuel System Plumbing
David Cyr <73601.521@...>
The Q2 supplier in Eastern Canada suggested using separate plumbing pipes
exiting the main tank and entering the header (for the electric pump and hand pump), so in the event of valve failure, the electric pump would not be defeated. Also, the Minister of Transport decreed we use 3/8 inch tubing for the lines from the header tank to the carburator... Dave Cyr Message text written by INTERNET:Q-LIST@... Good point. Internal bulb check valve is questionable. Another drawbackD)Is there anyone else out there that does not have a lot offaith in the cheap check valve in the pump bulb and has added an in- of the leaky valve, it bypasses the pump so you don't get good transfer to the header. Maybe a better method would be a good quality in-line check valve, with no check valve in the squeeze bulb. < |
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Re: Black
Chris McAtee <Subcanis@...>
I dont know, but (correct me if I'm wrong, Leon) the engine cooling tin on my bug is painted black for a reason: heat dissapation. I don't know what effect would it would have on the cylinders, though.
Chris McAtee ======================================================================== The Ives Hive wrote: I was told that painting cylinders black is the high performance way togo as the black will absorb the heat to the outside of the cylinders to let it dissapate quicker.Is this true or is it a bunch of hogwash? I know black absorbs heat (verses white) when the sun is involved - but does it make any difference under cover? Tom Ives _____________________________________________________________________________________ Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com |
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Re: Black
Britt Crowell <britt@...>
well I know that the SR-71 is black to help dissipate heat. The outer skin
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got like 600 degrees and the outside air temp was around -76 degrees. So it was black to help dissipate heat. Of course this is an extreme case and it probably would be of minimal help on an engine application and the paint might have more insulating properties. Regards Britt Crowell ----- Original Message -----
From: "Renee Robertson" <rrbrtson@...> To: <Q-LIST@...> Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 3:46 PM Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Black Hogwash, as far as I know Tom. The only reason you'd paint the exteriorof your cylinders it to prevent corrosion. A layer of paint (black or otherwise) actually insulates and prevents rapid heat dissipation. I work in the electronics industry and we have always recommended that aluminum heats sinks be left unpainted. Renego as the black will absorb the heat to the outside of the cylinders to let it dissapate quicker.Is this true or is it a bunch of hogwash? I know black absorbs heat (verses white) when the sun is involved - but does it make any difference under cover? Tom Ives |
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Re: Black
Renee Robertson <rrbrtson@...>
Hogwash, as far as I know Tom. The only reason you'd paint the exterior of your cylinders it to prevent corrosion. A layer of paint (black or otherwise) actually insulates and prevents rapid heat dissipation. I work in the electronics industry and we have always recommended that aluminum heats sinks be left unpainted.
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Rene Q2 C-FBWV The Ives Hive wrote: I was told that painting cylinders black is the high performance way to go as the black will absorb the heat to the outside of the cylinders to let it dissapate quicker.Is this true or is it a bunch of hogwash? I know black absorbs heat (verses white) when the sun is involved - but does it make any difference under cover? |
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Re: Black
Hot Wings
My recollection of the physics of thermodynamics is that black is the
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best color for radiating heat - both into and away from an object. However when dealing with painted surfaces where you are trying to dissipate heat there is another factor to take into consideration, and that is the heat transfer due to conduction. Sometimes it is best to leave a surface unpainted even if it is a light color as the coat of paint will not conduct heat as fast as the raw surface would to the surrounding atmosphere. A good example of this is the common practice of painting the aluminum case of the VW motor black in the mistaken belief that it will help cool it. The late Gene Berg (who had as much practical knowledge of the VW as anyone ever has) did a series of tests many years ago and of all the coatings he tried none cooled as well as the raw VW castings. One coating he didn't try was black anodize. It might work on the heads but I would not want to try it on the case. Bottom line - the only way to know what cools best is to test. In a message dated 12/14/00 11:14:33 Pacific Standard Time,
iveshive@... writes: << I was told that painting cylinders black is the high performance way to go as the black will absorb the heat to the outside of the cylinders to let it dissapate quicker.Is this true or is it a bunch of hogwash? I know black absorbs heat (verses white) when the sun is involved - but does it make any difference under cover? >> ======================== "Today's scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality." N. Tesla Just wishing I was as productive Leon <A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bd5er/Qpage.html">Q-2 page</A> |
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Black
The Ives Hive <iveshive@...>
I was told that painting cylinders black is the high performance way to go as the black will absorb the heat to the outside of the cylinders to let it dissapate quicker.Is this true or is it a bunch of hogwash? I know black absorbs heat (verses white) when the sun is involved - but does it make any difference under cover?
Tom Ives |
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Re: Fiberglassing Techniques
Pat Panzera <panzera@...>
"jtenhave@..." wrote:
A peel plied surface would he heavier, as all the void space between the threads would be filled with 100% epoxy. Additionally, sanding would be a serious drag, and would be necessary as there's hardly a good way to lay peel ply on a compound curved surface without it wrinkling and trapping high spots of pure epoxy. On another note, as for placing 10oz bid directly over uncured micro (as the plans call for) I've had a bit of trouble keeping the micro from oozing (even if only a little bit) between the fibers as I wet out the first layer of glass, and therefore micro ends up between the layers of glass. Pat |
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Re: Control Rod Clearance
L.J. French <LFrench@...>
OK, blast away. My main tank was built with the cutout for the control rods.
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However, I later changed my fuel system and was trying to get a little more control rod clearance over my fuel sender. I drilled new holes in the control arms that were 3/4" higher than the factory. I also drilled a new hole in the control stick that was 3/4" higher in order to keep the same relationship as before. It does not appear to have affected anything else. Comments and criticism please (yea, I know it's not per plans). L. French ----- Original Message -----
From: Cash, Gene <CASH@...> To: <Q-LIST@...> Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 9:53 AM Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Fuel System Plumbing The Tri-Q calls for a flat canard which creates the problem of no tankFAA probably wouldn't either. After looking over the Tri-Q instructions againI discovered they had a design that allowed for straight rods and clearedthe hump. It uses a control link mounted on the tank. A straight singlecontrols (Q2CSA8). Good lesson for me here, read the instructions, the answers arethe plans illustration for this straight rod control arrangement. |
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Re: Fuel System Plumbing
Cash, Gene <CASH@...>
The Tri-Q calls for a flat canard which creates the problem of no tank
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clearance with the control rods. I had a set of rods bent up to allow for the hump in the tank and I thought it looked and worked pretty good. The EAA tech inspector didn't like it and I figured if he didn't like it the FAA probably wouldn't either. After looking over the Tri-Q instructions again I discovered they had a design that allowed for straight rods and cleared the hump. It uses a control link mounted on the tank. A straight single control rod connects the stick to an intermediate control mounted on the tank. Two control rods mount onto it also and link to the elevator controls (Q2CSA8). Good lesson for me here, read the instructions, the answers are usually there. If you or anyone is interested, I can mail you a copy of the plans illustration for this straight rod control arrangement. Gene Cash -----Original Message----- |
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Vert Stab
Dave King <KingDWS@...>
Just wondering a couple of things. I was looking at the drawings and the
airfoil used caught my eye. I ended up digitizing the airfoil and runnin it through xfoil. I couldn't identify it by sight but its a 6.7% airfoil. It has a few not so good characterisitcs compared to the normally used 009/0012 airfoils. Its also fairly high drag compared to even a Naca 0012. The max lift is on the low side as well. One of the things that really stood out ws it was showing a staall alpha around 7 degrees. Does anyone know if the same is used on the Q2 or the Dfly? Dave |
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