Which begs the question - how many guys are using a gascolator? I'm not and
never have in either of my Q's.

BTW, I have never gotten any water from the sump EXCEPT for the time my
cockpit filled with water during a HEAVY rainstorm at Ottawa. I remember
there was more water in the tank that fuel!! :-)

Jon
-----Original Message-----
From: Q2FLYBOY@... [mailto:Q2FLYBOY@...]
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 7:45 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster

Gascolator is bad. I hac the same problem 10yrs ago. Changed to car
filter
inside cockpit like plans and never had any trouble since,

dave carlson



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I'm just now beginning to understand what is ment by "floating" brakes. I do
not beleive mine have been modifided to do this. I was reviewing the old
newsletters and found a couple of ways to do this. In issue 23 of Quicktalk
I found an explaination of how to float the disk. In Q-talk #1 there is an
explaination on how to float the calipers. Which way do most of you prefer?
If I want to go back to the smaller tires someday, is one way better than the
other?

Thanks!

Doug "Hawkeye" Humble
Omaha NE

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Guys,

I have had a lot of trouble getting my floating calipers to run true and
square. They are eating up the pads and disks and my brake action is poor.
After I got the calipers to run a little better, the braking power went way
down. The disks had been scored so I ground them smooth and put on new
pads. The disks are bolted to the wheel. Now the tracking is O.K. and the
pads are wearing O.K. but power is poor. Will the power get better as the
disk gets scuffed up?

I have a single master cylinder. They pull a little to one side but I can
hold it with the rudder. I have a large rudder matched to the tailwheel in
directional power. The system has been bled but they are still a little
spongy.

I'm not familiar with the floating disk. How is it done and why float both?

Does anyone have more info on the La Rue mod? Unlike Jon, I do not have
enough power on roll out.

James Postma
james@...
(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT (GMT-8) voice
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Patillo" <patillo@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 6:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Modifying the original Q2 brakes

-------------------------------------------------------------------_->

Doug,

I installed the disc brakes per specs with the disc bolted to the wheel

and floated the calipers. When I began hi-speed taxi I didn't like the way
the brakes felt and immediately installed the La Rue brake mod. This mod
still floats the calipers with the discs bolted but on a much more beefy
frame and much more squarely to the disc. By the way, I have 11.00 4.5 x 5
tires and the smallest wheel pants you can make. The caliper assy sticks out
the side about 13/4" - 2", but fairs in nicely with a fiberglass molded
cover. If you need the mod, its in a past issue of Quick Talk and the
archives may have it. In my opinion, they work great and easily hold the
airplane at 2,000 RPM or greater depending on how much you want to push on
the pedals.

Jim Patillo N46JP 13.5 hours N46JP Q200
----- Original Message -----
From: Jon Finley
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 4:37 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Modifying the original Q2 brakes




My Groups | Q-LIST Main Page | Start a new group!


Hi Doug,

Doesn't look like anyone is biting so I will take a stab. I don't

recall

which mods include which changes or where/when they were written up BUT

I

have both the floating caliper and floating disk on both my Q1 and Q2.

I

have found that there is a bit of tuning required to get both sides to

grip

with similar authority (I have a single master cylinder) but once that

is

done they work fine. They do not have a tremendous amount of "force",
cannot hold the plane during a full throttle run-up, sometimes squeak on

the

ground but have always delivered as much brake action as I needed during
roll out.

My big complaint is the size of the brake unit. I envy those guys with

the

super thin wheelpants!!

Jon Finley
Q1 N54JF - 1835cc VW
Q2 N90MG - Subaru EA-81 DD Turbo
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://63.90.191.136/Finley/finley-subaru.html



-----Original Message-----
From: HawkiDoug@... [mailto:HawkiDoug@...]
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 9:14 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Modifying the original Q2 brakes


I'm just now beginning to understand what is ment by "floating"

brakes. I

do
not beleive mine have been modifided to do this. I was reviewing the

old

newsletters and found a couple of ways to do this. In issue 23 of
Quicktalk
I found an explaination of how to float the disk. In Q-talk #1 there

is

an
explaination on how to float the calipers. Which way do most of you
prefer?
If I want to go back to the smaller tires someday, is one way better

than

the
other?

Thanks!

Doug "Hawkeye" Humble
Omaha NE

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Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

Quickie Builders Association WEB site
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150 hp out of a 2100 Revmaster? It'll take more than a cam, heads and
redrive to accomplish that. How fast are you planning on turning the

7000? Has this setup been dynoed? Mike C.
----- Original Message -----
From: James Postma <james@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster

Leon,

I got this from the racing dune buggy shop in Chino, CA where I bought

stuff. It is all new production built in Brazil or Mexico where they

build

the complete car. Incidentally, all the parts cost $900. A little

than a Lyc or Cont. That will not buy one cylinder with them.

I did a complete top job, cylinders, heads, valves, etc. It should be

good

for 150 hp with a cam and redrive. Don't think it is a good idea or tha

the Revmaster case will hold up, so I have modest expectations. I'm

only

turning 3500 rpm. I plan to upgrade the cam and go to 4300 rpm if I can
copy the Nemesis prop technology.

The original Revmaster had to be adusted often. I have only 15 hours

and am due for a clearance check. Will keep you informed. The

has a custom case and crankshaft. Everything else is stock VW.

Thanks for the advice on the valve grinding. I will include them in my
specs at the next valve job. So the valves are higher that the seats as

you

grind them when you say keep the seats narrow and to the outside edge of

the

valve face?

As to compression ratio, Revmaster says stay under 9:1 even with 100LL,
which they recommend to use, so it is not a fuel issue as much as what

bottom end will take.

James Postma
james@...
(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT (GMT-8) voice

----------
From: James Postma[SMTP:james@...]
Reply To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 12:14 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster


Michel,

Are you at all concerned about the long term effects on your fibreglass
structure keeping it outside? Sounds like you are in Florida?


James Postma
james@...
(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT (GMT-8) voice
----- Original Message -----
From: "Royer, Michel" <RoyerM@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 6:42 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster

My plane has been outside for 3 years in rain and never had a drop of

water

either in the main or in my gascolator which is between the header and
carb...


Michel

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Doug,

I installed the disc brakes per specs with the disc bolted to the wheel

Jim Patillo N46JP 13.5 hours N46JP Q200
----- Original Message -----
From: Jon Finley
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 4:37 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Modifying the original Q2 brakes




My Groups | Q-LIST Main Page | Start a new group!


Hi Doug,

Doesn't look like anyone is biting so I will take a stab. I don't

which mods include which changes or where/when they were written up BUT

have both the floating caliper and floating disk on both my Q1 and Q2.

have found that there is a bit of tuning required to get both sides to

with similar authority (I have a single master cylinder) but once that

done they work fine. They do not have a tremendous amount of "force",
cannot hold the plane during a full throttle run-up, sometimes squeak on

ground but have always delivered as much brake action as I needed during
roll out.

My big complaint is the size of the brake unit. I envy those guys with

super thin wheelpants!!

Jon Finley
Q1 N54JF - 1835cc VW
Q2 N90MG - Subaru EA-81 DD Turbo
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://63.90.191.136/Finley/finley-subaru.html



-----Original Message-----
From: HawkiDoug@... [mailto:HawkiDoug@...]
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 9:14 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Modifying the original Q2 brakes


I'm just now beginning to understand what is ment by "floating"

do
not beleive mine have been modifided to do this. I was reviewing the

newsletters and found a couple of ways to do this. In issue 23 of
Quicktalk
I found an explaination of how to float the disk. In Q-talk #1 there

an
explaination on how to float the calipers. Which way do most of you
prefer?
If I want to go back to the smaller tires someday, is one way better

the
other?

Thanks!

Doug "Hawkeye" Humble
Omaha NE

My plane has been outside for 3 years in rain and never had a drop of

either in the main or in my gascolator which is between the header and
carb...


Michel

My plane has been outside for 3 years in rain and never had a drop of

either in the main or in my gascolator which is between the header and
carb...

About the rough revmaster me and other guys found out that the mixture
traveling of the arm was not going far enough....

Michel

----------
From: Jon Finley[SMTP:finley@...]
Reply To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 9:21 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster


Which begs the question - how many guys are using a gascolator? I'm not
and
never have in either of my Q's.

BTW, I have never gotten any water from the sump EXCEPT for the time my
cockpit filled with water during a HEAVY rainstorm at Ottawa. I

there was more water in the tank that fuel!! :-)

Jon
-----Original Message-----
From: Q2FLYBOY@... [mailto:Q2FLYBOY@...]
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 7:45 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster


Gascolator is bad. I hac the same problem 10yrs ago. Changed to car
filter
inside cockpit like plans and never had any trouble since,

dave carlson








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Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://web2.airmail.net/qba321tm/q-page1.html

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----------
From: Jon Finley[SMTP:finley@...]
Reply To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 9:21 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster


Which begs the question - how many guys are using a gascolator? I'm not
and
never have in either of my Q's.

BTW, I have never gotten any water from the sump EXCEPT for the time my
cockpit filled with water during a HEAVY rainstorm at Ottawa. I remember
there was more water in the tank that fuel!! :-)

Jon
-----Original Message-----
From: Q2FLYBOY@... [mailto:Q2FLYBOY@...]
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 7:45 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster


Gascolator is bad. I hac the same problem 10yrs ago. Changed to car
filter
inside cockpit like plans and never had any trouble since,

dave carlson








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Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://web2.airmail.net/qba321tm/q-page1.html

Leon,

I got this from the racing dune buggy shop in Chino, CA where I bought the
stuff. It is all new production built in Brazil or Mexico where they

the complete car. Incidentally, all the parts cost $900. A little better
than a Lyc or Cont. That will not buy one cylinder with them.

I did a complete top job, cylinders, heads, valves, etc. It should be

for 150 hp with a cam and redrive. Don't think it is a good idea or that
the Revmaster case will hold up, so I have modest expectations. I'm

turning 3500 rpm. I plan to upgrade the cam and go to 4300 rpm if I can
copy the Nemesis prop technology.

The original Revmaster had to be adusted often. I have only 15 hours now
and am due for a clearance check. Will keep you informed. The Revmaster
has a custom case and crankshaft. Everything else is stock VW.

Thanks for the advice on the valve grinding. I will include them in my
specs at the next valve job. So the valves are higher that the seats as

grind them when you say keep the seats narrow and to the outside edge of

valve face?

As to compression ratio, Revmaster says stay under 9:1 even with 100LL,
which they recommend to use, so it is not a fuel issue as much as what the
bottom end will take.

James Postma
james@...
(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT (GMT-8) voice
----- Original Message -----
From: <BD5ER@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster

In a message dated 9/10/00 7:57:23 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
james@... writes:

<< If you get the latest VW heads and valves you should not need to

very
often. They are designed for unleaded gas unlike the original so do

get

out-of-adjustment as often. >>
==============================================
Who told you this? Unless there has been a development I am not

of

VW heads have used the same valve seat material from at least the early
'60's. There were some aftermarket heads sold (and maybe still are)
especially the ones made in the US, that had poor quality cast iron

If you are using a valve seat cutter rather than a grinder, and you

be, the difference in material is obvious right away. Stock VW valve

material is just fine with unleaded fuel. I have not had to change ANY
clearances, dimensions or materials since the days of leaded fuel other

than

reducing the compression ratio due to the overall poor quality of the

fuel.

We use to routinely run 9.5 and 10 to one for daily drivers on regular

with no problems.
In my experience the biggest variable effecting the frequency of

adjustment for the break in period is whether the seats have been cut

a

45 deg or a 46 deg cutter. I use a 46 deg cut and keep the seats narrow

and

to the outside edge of the valve face, and have had excellent results

the years. You can expect the valves to loosen for the first tank or 2

fuel (assuming fresh cam train components) and then close up again over

the

next 100 hours or so. After that they should settle down and only

small adjustments.
Other than proper torque's and clearances in the lower end the key

a

good VW is in the heads - both for horsepower and reliability. Just

any competent mechanic can screw together a VW block but to make a good

set

of heads requires an "artist".

"Think outside the box - but fly in the envelope"
<A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bd5er/Qpage.html">Q-2 page</A>
Leon McAtee


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Dave,

This is one of those problems that could be the result of several things

the combination of several things) and worse, when it goes away you may
never know what was causing it. I've also seen symptoms that I KNOW are

related and they end up being electrical or vice versa (probably tells
something about how much I think I know versus how much I really do

So, with all that said, from what you've described, it sounds to me like a
fuel/mixture problem. I have had a couple carbs that go lean when
transitioning between the idle circuit and main circuit which causes the
engine to stumble while going through this range. I assume that you are
using the Revflow carb. This carb's mixture is controlled by the taper of
the needle (correct?). I am not a Revflow/Posa guy but I believe if you
increase the taper of the needle in the middle (mid-range power) you will
increase the mixture (more gas) in this range and eliminate the stumble (if
that's what is causing the problem).

I would doubt vapor lock since the engine is running. I believe vapor lock
generally occurs when trying to start a hot engine (at least it did with my
old Revmaster), once it was running it was fine. Although, I believe

(may have been Sam?) mentioned that the fuel in the header tank gets pretty
hot when sitting outside in the sun. I think the suggestion was to run the
header pump to circulate some of the cooler main tank fuel into the header
before takeoff.

You mentioned in an early post that your EGT was down around 1200 degrees.
The temp that you see is very dependent on the placement of your probe
(distance from combustion chamber). Rule of thumb numbers are fine to get
started with but plug color/condition is the key (unless you have some high
tech device like those oxygen sensor doohickies). I've seen some engines
rich at 1400 degrees and others lean at 1200 degrees due to probe

There is only one way that I know to accurately check this and that is to
fly (ram air, etc...), land, quickly shutdown, and check the plugs. The

best is to run full throttle on the ground at a particular mixture setting
for a few minutes, shut down with a minimum of idle time, and then check

plugs. Remember that a long idle with a very rich idle setting will taint
your findings (will look like the mixture is rich when it may be lean at
high power settings).

Finally, think carefully about what changed previous to the event you
described. Was it cold outside (running lean)? Was it moist (carb ice from
sitting idling)? Did you just get fuel (water in fuel)? Was it a hot-sunny
day (header tank fuel hot)?

Jon Finley
Q1 N54JF - 1835cc VW
Q2 N90MG - Subaru EA-81 DD Turbo
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://63.90.191.136/Finley/finley-subaru.html


-----Original Message-----
From: daveq2@... [mailto:daveq2@...]
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 11:30 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster


Paul
Thanks for the advise, and every one else too. I've just installed a
EGT guage and during tests I can raise and lower the EGT with mixture at
full power about 75 degrees. I think that vapor lock is my problem because
with the cowl off, no skipping or roughness throughout the test. With
cowling on and things heated up a bit I'll get it to misbehave. I have a
gascolator quite close to the exhaust pipe on the lower left of the
firewall, most likely the hottest area under the cowling. I'm in the
process of making a heat shield for the gascolator and covering the fuel
line with firesleeve material. I may even have to direct some air at it,
but I think the shield may do the trick. The problem is very intermittent.
Still hoping to get to Ottawa......Dave D.


At 08:38 PM 09/10/2000 +0000, you wrote:
>
>
>
>Dave,
>
> After 800 hours behind a Revmaster, as few comments. Check your
clearances
>every 25 hours (yep, 20), I flew with a 'loose' 12 thou inlet and
exhaust.
>Second, at 17500 ft, I was leaned out to just under 2 imperial
gallons/hour. I
>OFTEN found that I got better response and smoother running, even at

>throttle wea level with the mixture slightly out ....... the critical
thing is,
>as you've been advised, to watch the EGT's ..... go lean of peak then
back in a
>wuater of an inch ...
>
> What EGT max has Revmaster given you?
>
> RSVP - and stay safe,
>
>Paul
>
>
>
>
>james@... on 09/09/2000 01:29:14
>
>Please respond to Q-LIST@...
>
>To: Q-LIST@...
>cc:
>Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster
>
>
>
>Dave,
>
>Check those lower plugs. There is a tendency not to because you have to
>take the rocker arms and access plates off. Then have to reset the
>clearances after reassembly and reseal the access plates.
>
>My lower plugs came loose due to neglect after about 50 hours and fried
the
>cylinder heads. They looked just like a torch was used on them where

>exhaust leaked out. I was able to return to the field at low power and
make
>a normal landing. The engine ran very rough when it happened.
>
>What EGT did Joe say was normal and maximum? I can only get mine up to
800
>at peak.
>
>YOu may have something else wrong as you should not lose all power with
one
>mag bad. It sounds more like fuel. You are changing your inline fuel
>filter every 5 or 10 hours for the first 50 hours or so aren't you? The
>tank tends to shed at first. Keep changing it until it always is clear.
>
>James Postma
>james@...
>(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT (GMT-8) voice
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <daveq2@...>
>To: <Q-LIST@...>
>Sent: Friday, September 08, 2000 2:51 PM
>Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster
>
>
>>
>> Guys...thanks for the input. I'll keep you posted. I'm installing a
egt
>guage because I'm not sure about the mixture setting, and according to
Joe
>at Revmaster, The egt is the only way to be sure. I may be running it
too
>lean and under certain conditions it can behave or not. Thanks
again..Dave
>Dugas
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> At 10:08 AM 09/08/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>> >
>> > I hope someone can give me some advice on my Q2 Revmaster. On the
>take-off roll the engine suddenly lost power and regained it after about
1
>or 2 seconds. Plenty of runway left so I chopped power and rolled out.
I
>noticed that the left mag...lower plugs, ran rough. During the left mag
>check, adding throttle and leaning didn't smooth it out. My question

>has anyone had any trouble like this with the Revmaster? I've had to
ream
>out the #3 cyl valve guide twice and the #1 cyl valve guide once, due to
>carbon build up. I've got some new plugs to install, because the ones

it
>are original and I'm not sure of their condition. Has anyone had mag
>problems? The engine ran perfectly for 50 or so hours, now this has
>occured. I've added Mystery Oil to the fuel to see if the carbon build
in
>the valve guides would decrease. I've got about 70 hrs. on the plane
with
>no other problems. I hope to hear from any Revmaster flyers who could
offer
>any help. Thanks Dave Dugas








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