Date   

Re: Rough Revmaster

Robert M. Farnam <bfarnam@...>
 

Jon,

I run a fuel filter instead of a gascolator. I've never gotten water from the
sump either. I don't like gascolators much.

Bob F.
N200QK

Jon Finley wrote:


Which begs the question - how many guys are using a gascolator? I'm not and
never have in either of my Q's.

BTW, I have never gotten any water from the sump EXCEPT for the time my
cockpit filled with water during a HEAVY rainstorm at Ottawa. I remember
there was more water in the tank that fuel!! :-)

Jon
-----Original Message-----
From: Q2FLYBOY@... [mailto:Q2FLYBOY@...]
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 7:45 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster

Gascolator is bad. I hac the same problem 10yrs ago. Changed to car
filter
inside cockpit like plans and never had any trouble since,

dave carlson



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Re: Modifying the original Q2 brakes

Robert M. Farnam <bfarnam@...>
 

Doug,

I use the La Rue modification as published in the Sept/Oct '89 issue of
Quicktalk. Jim Patillo also modified to those, and I think Sam Hoskins uses them.
In my experience, they work very well. With a 3:1 mechanical ratio on my brake
pedal (toe brakes), I can easily hold a full power runup. I tried floating the
rotor first, but didn't like it so changed to the La Rue floating caliper.

Bob F.

HawkiDoug@... wrote:


I'm just now beginning to understand what is ment by "floating" brakes. I do
not beleive mine have been modifided to do this. I was reviewing the old
newsletters and found a couple of ways to do this. In issue 23 of Quicktalk
I found an explaination of how to float the disk. In Q-talk #1 there is an
explaination on how to float the calipers. Which way do most of you prefer?
If I want to go back to the smaller tires someday, is one way better than the
other?

Thanks!

Doug "Hawkeye" Humble
Omaha NE

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Re: Modifying the original Q2 brakes

Sam Hoskins <shoskins@...>
 

The La Rue mod is in an old Quicktalk, look it up. I used it too and am
satisfied with the mount.

Sam

James Postma wrote:


Guys,

I have had a lot of trouble getting my floating calipers to run true and
square. They are eating up the pads and disks and my brake action is poor.
After I got the calipers to run a little better, the braking power went way
down. The disks had been scored so I ground them smooth and put on new
pads. The disks are bolted to the wheel. Now the tracking is O.K. and the
pads are wearing O.K. but power is poor. Will the power get better as the
disk gets scuffed up?

I have a single master cylinder. They pull a little to one side but I can
hold it with the rudder. I have a large rudder matched to the tailwheel in
directional power. The system has been bled but they are still a little
spongy.

I'm not familiar with the floating disk. How is it done and why float both?

Does anyone have more info on the La Rue mod? Unlike Jon, I do not have
enough power on roll out.

James Postma
james@...
(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT (GMT-8) voice
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Patillo" <patillo@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 6:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Modifying the original Q2 brakes

-------------------------------------------------------------------_->

Doug,

I installed the disc brakes per specs with the disc bolted to the wheel
and floated the calipers. When I began hi-speed taxi I didn't like the way
the brakes felt and immediately installed the La Rue brake mod. This mod
still floats the calipers with the discs bolted but on a much more beefy
frame and much more squarely to the disc. By the way, I have 11.00 4.5 x 5
tires and the smallest wheel pants you can make. The caliper assy sticks out
the side about 13/4" - 2", but fairs in nicely with a fiberglass molded
cover. If you need the mod, its in a past issue of Quick Talk and the
archives may have it. In my opinion, they work great and easily hold the
airplane at 2,000 RPM or greater depending on how much you want to push on
the pedals.

Jim Patillo N46JP 13.5 hours N46JP Q200
----- Original Message -----
From: Jon Finley
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 4:37 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Modifying the original Q2 brakes




My Groups | Q-LIST Main Page | Start a new group!


Hi Doug,

Doesn't look like anyone is biting so I will take a stab. I don't
recall
which mods include which changes or where/when they were written up BUT
I
have both the floating caliper and floating disk on both my Q1 and Q2.
I
have found that there is a bit of tuning required to get both sides to
grip
with similar authority (I have a single master cylinder) but once that
is
done they work fine. They do not have a tremendous amount of "force",
cannot hold the plane during a full throttle run-up, sometimes squeak on
the
ground but have always delivered as much brake action as I needed during
roll out.

My big complaint is the size of the brake unit. I envy those guys with
the
super thin wheelpants!!

Jon Finley
Q1 N54JF - 1835cc VW
Q2 N90MG - Subaru EA-81 DD Turbo
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://63.90.191.136/Finley/finley-subaru.html



-----Original Message-----
From: HawkiDoug@... [mailto:HawkiDoug@...]
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 9:14 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Modifying the original Q2 brakes


I'm just now beginning to understand what is ment by "floating"
brakes. I
do
not beleive mine have been modifided to do this. I was reviewing the
old
newsletters and found a couple of ways to do this. In issue 23 of
Quicktalk
I found an explaination of how to float the disk. In Q-talk #1 there
is
an
explaination on how to float the calipers. Which way do most of you
prefer?
If I want to go back to the smaller tires someday, is one way better
than
the
other?

Thanks!

Doug "Hawkeye" Humble
Omaha NE
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Quickie Builders Association WEB site
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Re: A simple STOL mod for Qs?

Hot Wings
 

In a message dated 9/12/00 6:33:23 PM Mountain Daylight Time, ed@...
writes:

<< Does this make sense to anyone else? >>
=====================================
You may be on to something. If you look at the air pressure distribution
map you will see that the computer program picked up some kind of flow in
this area. Look real close here <A
HREF="http://web2.airmail.net/qba321tm/q-page1.html">Quickie Builders
Association Internet Home Page</A> at the elevator inboard. Another tip on
these pressure distribution color maps - Cut and past to MS Paint and invert
the colors. For some of us males with color perception problems this will
reveal some of the more subtle changes.
Perhaps to "seal" this gap you might use a vertical piece of .020"
aluminum as a flow fence on the inboard end of the elevator? It would be
easy to temporarily glue one on to test.

"Think outside the box - but fly in the envelope"
<A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bd5er/Qpage.html">Q-2 page</A>
Leon McAtee


Re: Rough Revmaster

James Postma <james@...>
 

Michael,

150 HP is the potential of the top end at about 5,500 RPM but I have no
intentions of trying for it as I state that the bottom end and the cooling
will not hold up. My point is that the new "top stuff" is superior to the
original, i.e. the wall thickness is increased actually decreasing the bore,
but producing more HP and is cooler due to less flexing. If you pick up a
copy of Hot VW's it has lots of stuff along this line and it works fine for
aircraft at low cost. When I did the top the rpm went from 3100 to 3300 and
speed from 140 to 150 mph. My next project is drag reduction mostly fit of
canopy, speed brake, cowling etc.

My actual intent is to go for 4,300 rpm and 85 HP direct drive. Need a new
cam, prop and probably intake manifold for this. Anything more and I will
look seriously at what the Corvair and Soob people are doing.

James Postma
james@...
(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT (GMT-8) voice

----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael D. Callahan" <micallahan@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 4:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster



150 hp out of a 2100 Revmaster? It'll take more than a cam, heads and
redrive to accomplish that. How fast are you planning on turning the
engine,
7000? Has this setup been dynoed? Mike C.
----- Original Message -----
From: James Postma <james@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster



Leon,

I got this from the racing dune buggy shop in Chino, CA where I bought
the
stuff. It is all new production built in Brazil or Mexico where they
build
the complete car. Incidentally, all the parts cost $900. A little
better
than a Lyc or Cont. That will not buy one cylinder with them.

I did a complete top job, cylinders, heads, valves, etc. It should be
good
for 150 hp with a cam and redrive. Don't think it is a good idea or tha
t
the Revmaster case will hold up, so I have modest expectations. I'm
only
turning 3500 rpm. I plan to upgrade the cam and go to 4300 rpm if I can
copy the Nemesis prop technology.

The original Revmaster had to be adusted often. I have only 15 hours
now
and am due for a clearance check. Will keep you informed. The
Revmaster
has a custom case and crankshaft. Everything else is stock VW.

Thanks for the advice on the valve grinding. I will include them in my
specs at the next valve job. So the valves are higher that the seats as
you
grind them when you say keep the seats narrow and to the outside edge of
the
valve face?

As to compression ratio, Revmaster says stay under 9:1 even with 100LL,
which they recommend to use, so it is not a fuel issue as much as what
the
bottom end will take.

James Postma
james@...
(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT (GMT-8) voice


Re: A VG question, sorry.

Jon Finley <finley@...>
 

Ed,

I'm 99.9% sure that QAC called for them to be located at 50% chord. However;
the logic behind that is in question. Jim Price (Long-EZ and altitude
record) has wind tunnel tested VG placement and found that 20% chord was
optimal on his canard.

Jon Finley
Q1 N54JF - 1835cc VW
Q2 N90MG - Subaru EA-81 DD Turbo
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://63.90.191.136/Finley/finley-subaru.html

-----Original Message-----
From: Edward N. MacLeod [mailto:ed@...]
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 11:14 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] A VG question, sorry.

For you GU experts out there, a quick VG question:

I noticed on the QBA site
(http://web2.airmail.net/qba321tm/q-page1.html), the VGs should be
located at the 50% chord.

Another site shows them near the max thickness line,
http://www.si-inc.com/dragonfly/dropbox/vg-place.gif

Unfortunately I put mine at the latter location.

Thanks for the feedback.

Ed m



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Quickie Builders Association WEB site
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Re: Rough Revmaster

Royer, Michel <RoyerM@...>
 

James.......should of said rain and snow......far from Florida.
Up near Ottawa Ontario,Canada. Postcure was performed on the plane.
Michel

----------
From: James Postma[SMTP:james@...]
Reply To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 12:14 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster


Michel,

Are you at all concerned about the long term effects on your fibreglass
structure keeping it outside? Sounds like you are in Florida?


James Postma
james@...
(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT (GMT-8) voice
----- Original Message -----
From: "Royer, Michel" <RoyerM@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 6:42 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster



My plane has been outside for 3 years in rain and never had a drop of
water
either in the main or in my gascolator which is between the header and
carb...


Michel



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Re: Modifying the original Q2 brakes

James Postma <james@...>
 

Guys,

I have had a lot of trouble getting my floating calipers to run true and
square. They are eating up the pads and disks and my brake action is poor.
After I got the calipers to run a little better, the braking power went way
down. The disks had been scored so I ground them smooth and put on new
pads. The disks are bolted to the wheel. Now the tracking is O.K. and the
pads are wearing O.K. but power is poor. Will the power get better as the
disk gets scuffed up?

I have a single master cylinder. They pull a little to one side but I can
hold it with the rudder. I have a large rudder matched to the tailwheel in
directional power. The system has been bled but they are still a little
spongy.

I'm not familiar with the floating disk. How is it done and why float both?

Does anyone have more info on the La Rue mod? Unlike Jon, I do not have
enough power on roll out.

James Postma
james@...
(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT (GMT-8) voice

----- Original Message -----
From: "James Patillo" <patillo@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 6:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Modifying the original Q2 brakes


-------------------------------------------------------------------_->

Doug,

I installed the disc brakes per specs with the disc bolted to the wheel
and floated the calipers. When I began hi-speed taxi I didn't like the way
the brakes felt and immediately installed the La Rue brake mod. This mod
still floats the calipers with the discs bolted but on a much more beefy
frame and much more squarely to the disc. By the way, I have 11.00 4.5 x 5
tires and the smallest wheel pants you can make. The caliper assy sticks out
the side about 13/4" - 2", but fairs in nicely with a fiberglass molded
cover. If you need the mod, its in a past issue of Quick Talk and the
archives may have it. In my opinion, they work great and easily hold the
airplane at 2,000 RPM or greater depending on how much you want to push on
the pedals.

Jim Patillo N46JP 13.5 hours N46JP Q200
----- Original Message -----
From: Jon Finley
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 4:37 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Modifying the original Q2 brakes




My Groups | Q-LIST Main Page | Start a new group!


Hi Doug,

Doesn't look like anyone is biting so I will take a stab. I don't
recall
which mods include which changes or where/when they were written up BUT
I
have both the floating caliper and floating disk on both my Q1 and Q2.
I
have found that there is a bit of tuning required to get both sides to
grip
with similar authority (I have a single master cylinder) but once that
is
done they work fine. They do not have a tremendous amount of "force",
cannot hold the plane during a full throttle run-up, sometimes squeak on
the
ground but have always delivered as much brake action as I needed during
roll out.

My big complaint is the size of the brake unit. I envy those guys with
the
super thin wheelpants!!

Jon Finley
Q1 N54JF - 1835cc VW
Q2 N90MG - Subaru EA-81 DD Turbo
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://63.90.191.136/Finley/finley-subaru.html



-----Original Message-----
From: HawkiDoug@... [mailto:HawkiDoug@...]
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 9:14 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Modifying the original Q2 brakes


I'm just now beginning to understand what is ment by "floating"
brakes. I
do
not beleive mine have been modifided to do this. I was reviewing the
old
newsletters and found a couple of ways to do this. In issue 23 of
Quicktalk
I found an explaination of how to float the disk. In Q-talk #1 there
is
an
explaination on how to float the calipers. Which way do most of you
prefer?
If I want to go back to the smaller tires someday, is one way better
than
the
other?

Thanks!

Doug "Hawkeye" Humble
Omaha NE


Re: Rough Revmaster

James Postma <james@...>
 

Michel,

Are you at all concerned about the long term effects on your fibreglass
structure keeping it outside? Sounds like you are in Florida?


James Postma
james@...
(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT (GMT-8) voice

----- Original Message -----
From: "Royer, Michel" <RoyerM@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 6:42 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster



My plane has been outside for 3 years in rain and never had a drop of
water
either in the main or in my gascolator which is between the header and
carb...


Michel


A VG question, sorry.

Edward N. MacLeod <ed@...>
 

For you GU experts out there, a quick VG question:

I noticed on the QBA site
(http://web2.airmail.net/qba321tm/q-page1.html), the VGs should be
located at the 50% chord.

Another site shows them near the max thickness line,
http://www.si-inc.com/dragonfly/dropbox/vg-place.gif

Unfortunately I put mine at the latter location.

Thanks for the feedback.

Ed m


Re: Rough Revmaster

James Postma <james@...>
 

I have an in-line filter per plans and also a gascolator. The filter
catches the dirt and the gascolator gets the water. Without it your engine
would drown if any water gets in. I got a slug of water at Will Rogers AP
in Oky City with my Bonanza from a fuel truck one time. They are mostly
JetA and this truck had not been drained. It took me 3 fillups to get all
the water out of the tanks, but the gascolator kept it running. I landed
often and drained the gascolator.

Hate to keep harping but the flyer with the rough engine really needs to
check (change) that in-line filter often on a new system.

James Postma
james@...
(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT (GMT-8) voice

----- Original Message -----
From: "Royer, Michel" <RoyerM@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 6:42 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster



My plane has been outside for 3 years in rain and never had a drop of
water
either in the main or in my gascolator which is between the header and
carb...

About the rough revmaster me and other guys found out that the mixture
traveling of the arm was not going far enough....

Michel

----------
From: Jon Finley[SMTP:finley@...]
Reply To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 9:21 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster


Which begs the question - how many guys are using a gascolator? I'm not
and
never have in either of my Q's.

BTW, I have never gotten any water from the sump EXCEPT for the time my
cockpit filled with water during a HEAVY rainstorm at Ottawa. I
remember
there was more water in the tank that fuel!! :-)

Jon
-----Original Message-----
From: Q2FLYBOY@... [mailto:Q2FLYBOY@...]
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 7:45 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster


Gascolator is bad. I hac the same problem 10yrs ago. Changed to car
filter
inside cockpit like plans and never had any trouble since,

dave carlson








To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://web2.airmail.net/qba321tm/q-page1.html



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://web2.airmail.net/qba321tm/q-page1.html


Re: Rough Revmaster

Royer, Michel <RoyerM@...>
 

My plane has been outside for 3 years in rain and never had a drop of water
either in the main or in my gascolator which is between the header and
carb...

About the rough revmaster me and other guys found out that the mixture
traveling of the arm was not going far enough....

Michel

----------
From: Jon Finley[SMTP:finley@...]
Reply To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 9:21 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster


Which begs the question - how many guys are using a gascolator? I'm not
and
never have in either of my Q's.

BTW, I have never gotten any water from the sump EXCEPT for the time my
cockpit filled with water during a HEAVY rainstorm at Ottawa. I remember
there was more water in the tank that fuel!! :-)

Jon
-----Original Message-----
From: Q2FLYBOY@... [mailto:Q2FLYBOY@...]
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 7:45 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster


Gascolator is bad. I hac the same problem 10yrs ago. Changed to car
filter
inside cockpit like plans and never had any trouble since,

dave carlson








To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://web2.airmail.net/qba321tm/q-page1.html



Re: Modifying the original Q2 brakes

James Patillo <patillo@...>
 

Doug,

I installed the disc brakes per specs with the disc bolted to the wheel and floated the calipers. When I began hi-speed taxi I didn't like the way the brakes felt and immediately installed the La Rue brake mod. This mod still floats the calipers with the discs bolted but on a much more beefy frame and much more squarely to the disc. By the way, I have 11.00 4.5 x 5 tires and the smallest wheel pants you can make. The caliper assy sticks out the side about 13/4" - 2", but fairs in nicely with a fiberglass molded cover. If you need the mod, its in a past issue of Quick Talk and the archives may have it. In my opinion, they work great and easily hold the airplane at 2,000 RPM or greater depending on how much you want to push on the pedals.

Jim Patillo N46JP 13.5 hours N46JP Q200

----- Original Message -----
From: Jon Finley
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 4:37 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Modifying the original Q2 brakes




My Groups | Q-LIST Main Page | Start a new group!


Hi Doug,

Doesn't look like anyone is biting so I will take a stab. I don't recall
which mods include which changes or where/when they were written up BUT I
have both the floating caliper and floating disk on both my Q1 and Q2. I
have found that there is a bit of tuning required to get both sides to grip
with similar authority (I have a single master cylinder) but once that is
done they work fine. They do not have a tremendous amount of "force",
cannot hold the plane during a full throttle run-up, sometimes squeak on the
ground but have always delivered as much brake action as I needed during
roll out.

My big complaint is the size of the brake unit. I envy those guys with the
super thin wheelpants!!

Jon Finley
Q1 N54JF - 1835cc VW
Q2 N90MG - Subaru EA-81 DD Turbo
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://63.90.191.136/Finley/finley-subaru.html



-----Original Message-----
From: HawkiDoug@... [mailto:HawkiDoug@...]
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 9:14 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Modifying the original Q2 brakes


I'm just now beginning to understand what is ment by "floating" brakes. I
do
not beleive mine have been modifided to do this. I was reviewing the old
newsletters and found a couple of ways to do this. In issue 23 of
Quicktalk
I found an explaination of how to float the disk. In Q-talk #1 there is
an
explaination on how to float the calipers. Which way do most of you
prefer?
If I want to go back to the smaller tires someday, is one way better than
the
other?

Thanks!

Doug "Hawkeye" Humble
Omaha NE








To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://web2.airmail.net/qba321tm/q-page1.html


Re: Rough Revmaster

Jon Finley <finley@...>
 

Which begs the question - how many guys are using a gascolator? I'm not and
never have in either of my Q's.

BTW, I have never gotten any water from the sump EXCEPT for the time my
cockpit filled with water during a HEAVY rainstorm at Ottawa. I remember
there was more water in the tank that fuel!! :-)

Jon

-----Original Message-----
From: Q2FLYBOY@... [mailto:Q2FLYBOY@...]
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 7:45 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster


Gascolator is bad. I hac the same problem 10yrs ago. Changed to car
filter
inside cockpit like plans and never had any trouble since,

dave carlson


Re: Modifying the original Q2 brakes

Jon Finley <finley@...>
 

Hi Doug,

Doesn't look like anyone is biting so I will take a stab. I don't recall
which mods include which changes or where/when they were written up BUT I
have both the floating caliper and floating disk on both my Q1 and Q2. I
have found that there is a bit of tuning required to get both sides to grip
with similar authority (I have a single master cylinder) but once that is
done they work fine. They do not have a tremendous amount of "force",
cannot hold the plane during a full throttle run-up, sometimes squeak on the
ground but have always delivered as much brake action as I needed during
roll out.

My big complaint is the size of the brake unit. I envy those guys with the
super thin wheelpants!!

Jon Finley
Q1 N54JF - 1835cc VW
Q2 N90MG - Subaru EA-81 DD Turbo
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://63.90.191.136/Finley/finley-subaru.html

-----Original Message-----
From: HawkiDoug@... [mailto:HawkiDoug@...]
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 9:14 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Modifying the original Q2 brakes


I'm just now beginning to understand what is ment by "floating" brakes. I
do
not beleive mine have been modifided to do this. I was reviewing the old
newsletters and found a couple of ways to do this. In issue 23 of
Quicktalk
I found an explaination of how to float the disk. In Q-talk #1 there is
an
explaination on how to float the calipers. Which way do most of you
prefer?
If I want to go back to the smaller tires someday, is one way better than
the
other?

Thanks!

Doug "Hawkeye" Humble
Omaha NE


Re: Rough Revmaster

Who is this?
 

Gascolator is bad. I hac the same problem 10yrs ago. Changed to car filter
inside cockpit like plans and never had any trouble since,

dave carlson


Re: Rough Revmaster

Michael D. Callahan <micallahan@...>
 

150 hp out of a 2100 Revmaster? It'll take more than a cam, heads and
redrive to accomplish that. How fast are you planning on turning the engine,
7000? Has this setup been dynoed? Mike C.

----- Original Message -----
From: James Postma <james@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster



Leon,

I got this from the racing dune buggy shop in Chino, CA where I bought the
stuff. It is all new production built in Brazil or Mexico where they
build
the complete car. Incidentally, all the parts cost $900. A little better
than a Lyc or Cont. That will not buy one cylinder with them.

I did a complete top job, cylinders, heads, valves, etc. It should be
good
for 150 hp with a cam and redrive. Don't think it is a good idea or that
the Revmaster case will hold up, so I have modest expectations. I'm
only
turning 3500 rpm. I plan to upgrade the cam and go to 4300 rpm if I can
copy the Nemesis prop technology.

The original Revmaster had to be adusted often. I have only 15 hours now
and am due for a clearance check. Will keep you informed. The Revmaster
has a custom case and crankshaft. Everything else is stock VW.

Thanks for the advice on the valve grinding. I will include them in my
specs at the next valve job. So the valves are higher that the seats as
you
grind them when you say keep the seats narrow and to the outside edge of
the
valve face?

As to compression ratio, Revmaster says stay under 9:1 even with 100LL,
which they recommend to use, so it is not a fuel issue as much as what the
bottom end will take.

James Postma
james@...
(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT (GMT-8) voice
----- Original Message -----
From: <BD5ER@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster



In a message dated 9/10/00 7:57:23 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
james@... writes:

<< If you get the latest VW heads and valves you should not need to
adjust
very
often. They are designed for unleaded gas unlike the original so do
not
get
out-of-adjustment as often. >>
==============================================
Who told you this? Unless there has been a development I am not
aware
of
VW heads have used the same valve seat material from at least the early
'60's. There were some aftermarket heads sold (and maybe still are)
especially the ones made in the US, that had poor quality cast iron
seats.
If you are using a valve seat cutter rather than a grinder, and you
should
be, the difference in material is obvious right away. Stock VW valve
seat
material is just fine with unleaded fuel. I have not had to change ANY
clearances, dimensions or materials since the days of leaded fuel other
than
reducing the compression ratio due to the overall poor quality of the
fuel.
We use to routinely run 9.5 and 10 to one for daily drivers on regular
gas
with no problems.
In my experience the biggest variable effecting the frequency of
valve
adjustment for the break in period is whether the seats have been cut
with
a
45 deg or a 46 deg cutter. I use a 46 deg cut and keep the seats narrow
and
to the outside edge of the valve face, and have had excellent results
over
the years. You can expect the valves to loosen for the first tank or 2
of
fuel (assuming fresh cam train components) and then close up again over
the
next 100 hours or so. After that they should settle down and only
require
small adjustments.
Other than proper torque's and clearances in the lower end the key
to
a
good VW is in the heads - both for horsepower and reliability. Just
about
any competent mechanic can screw together a VW block but to make a good
set
of heads requires an "artist".

"Think outside the box - but fly in the envelope"
<A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bd5er/Qpage.html">Q-2 page</A>
Leon McAtee


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I am baff-fold..

allen relseg
 

Hi & hope to see you all in kansas.. Now my problem, I can post to
this group with no problems.. Soooo why cant I post to the Airsoob
group.. I am a member of both groups..Some of the Q-people are also
on the Aairsoob group..
I have been working hard at finishing my Taylorbird, Subaru-powered,
and have a few Eng. problems to work out.. It was certified by our
gov. last week with (flying) colors. Now I can work on my Q-200 this
winter. Plan is to have a local bop around plane and a cross country
plane.. See ya at the big "Q" spot... Mark Lima,Oh

"Does this mean were all groupys now"


Re: Rough Revmaster

Ted VanMeter <tvanmeter@...>
 

Just thought I would add my 2 cents worth. I know you are all running with
fuel pumps so this will sound a little off point, but it is something to
think about. A high wing Cessna w/o a fuel pump ( as they are from the
factory) on a hot Texas day is subject to vapor "lock". The problem is
usually only noticed on landing if at all. The problem is more severe with
auto fuel. A fuel pump and gascolator cooling are the cure. If the
gascolator is near the exhaust it should be shielded and insulated. A
regulator with a return line to the tank of your choice is also a good idea.
Well there it is both pennies. Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Finley <finley@...>
To: Q-LIST@... <Q-LIST@...>
Date: Monday, September 11, 2000 10:35 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster



Dave,

This is one of those problems that could be the result of several things
(or
the combination of several things) and worse, when it goes away you may
never know what was causing it. I've also seen symptoms that I KNOW are
fuel
related and they end up being electrical or vice versa (probably tells
something about how much I think I know versus how much I really do
know!!).

So, with all that said, from what you've described, it sounds to me like a
fuel/mixture problem. I have had a couple carbs that go lean when
transitioning between the idle circuit and main circuit which causes the
engine to stumble while going through this range. I assume that you are
using the Revflow carb. This carb's mixture is controlled by the taper of
the needle (correct?). I am not a Revflow/Posa guy but I believe if you
increase the taper of the needle in the middle (mid-range power) you will
increase the mixture (more gas) in this range and eliminate the stumble (if
that's what is causing the problem).

I would doubt vapor lock since the engine is running. I believe vapor lock
generally occurs when trying to start a hot engine (at least it did with my
old Revmaster), once it was running it was fine. Although, I believe
someone
(may have been Sam?) mentioned that the fuel in the header tank gets pretty
hot when sitting outside in the sun. I think the suggestion was to run the
header pump to circulate some of the cooler main tank fuel into the header
before takeoff.

You mentioned in an early post that your EGT was down around 1200 degrees.
The temp that you see is very dependent on the placement of your probe
(distance from combustion chamber). Rule of thumb numbers are fine to get
started with but plug color/condition is the key (unless you have some high
tech device like those oxygen sensor doohickies). I've seen some engines
rich at 1400 degrees and others lean at 1200 degrees due to probe
placement.
There is only one way that I know to accurately check this and that is to
fly (ram air, etc...), land, quickly shutdown, and check the plugs. The
next
best is to run full throttle on the ground at a particular mixture setting
for a few minutes, shut down with a minimum of idle time, and then check
the
plugs. Remember that a long idle with a very rich idle setting will taint
your findings (will look like the mixture is rich when it may be lean at
high power settings).

Finally, think carefully about what changed previous to the event you
described. Was it cold outside (running lean)? Was it moist (carb ice from
sitting idling)? Did you just get fuel (water in fuel)? Was it a hot-sunny
day (header tank fuel hot)?

Jon Finley
Q1 N54JF - 1835cc VW
Q2 N90MG - Subaru EA-81 DD Turbo
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://63.90.191.136/Finley/finley-subaru.html


-----Original Message-----
From: daveq2@... [mailto:daveq2@...]
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 11:30 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster


Paul
Thanks for the advise, and every one else too. I've just installed a
EGT guage and during tests I can raise and lower the EGT with mixture at
full power about 75 degrees. I think that vapor lock is my problem because
with the cowl off, no skipping or roughness throughout the test. With
cowling on and things heated up a bit I'll get it to misbehave. I have a
gascolator quite close to the exhaust pipe on the lower left of the
firewall, most likely the hottest area under the cowling. I'm in the
process of making a heat shield for the gascolator and covering the fuel
line with firesleeve material. I may even have to direct some air at it,
but I think the shield may do the trick. The problem is very intermittent.
Still hoping to get to Ottawa......Dave D.


At 08:38 PM 09/10/2000 +0000, you wrote:
>
>
>
>Dave,
>
> After 800 hours behind a Revmaster, as few comments. Check your
clearances
>every 25 hours (yep, 20), I flew with a 'loose' 12 thou inlet and
exhaust.
>Second, at 17500 ft, I was leaned out to just under 2 imperial
gallons/hour. I
>OFTEN found that I got better response and smoother running, even at
full
>throttle wea level with the mixture slightly out ....... the critical
thing is,
>as you've been advised, to watch the EGT's ..... go lean of peak then
back in a
>wuater of an inch ...
>
> What EGT max has Revmaster given you?
>
> RSVP - and stay safe,
>
>Paul
>
>
>
>
>james@... on 09/09/2000 01:29:14
>
>Please respond to Q-LIST@...
>
>To: Q-LIST@...
>cc:
>Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster
>
>
>
>Dave,
>
>Check those lower plugs. There is a tendency not to because you have to
>take the rocker arms and access plates off. Then have to reset the
>clearances after reassembly and reseal the access plates.
>
>My lower plugs came loose due to neglect after about 50 hours and fried
the
>cylinder heads. They looked just like a torch was used on them where
the
>exhaust leaked out. I was able to return to the field at low power and
make
>a normal landing. The engine ran very rough when it happened.
>
>What EGT did Joe say was normal and maximum? I can only get mine up to
800
>at peak.
>
>YOu may have something else wrong as you should not lose all power with
one
>mag bad. It sounds more like fuel. You are changing your inline fuel
>filter every 5 or 10 hours for the first 50 hours or so aren't you? The
>tank tends to shed at first. Keep changing it until it always is clear.
>
>James Postma
>james@...
>(253) 584-1182 9:00 to 8:00 PDT (GMT-8) voice
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <daveq2@...>
>To: <Q-LIST@...>
>Sent: Friday, September 08, 2000 2:51 PM
>Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Rough Revmaster
>
>
>>
>> Guys...thanks for the input. I'll keep you posted. I'm installing a
egt
>guage because I'm not sure about the mixture setting, and according to
Joe
>at Revmaster, The egt is the only way to be sure. I may be running it
too
>lean and under certain conditions it can behave or not. Thanks
again..Dave
>Dugas
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> At 10:08 AM 09/08/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>> >
>> > I hope someone can give me some advice on my Q2 Revmaster. On the
>take-off roll the engine suddenly lost power and regained it after about
1
>or 2 seconds. Plenty of runway left so I chopped power and rolled out.
I
>noticed that the left mag...lower plugs, ran rough. During the left mag
>check, adding throttle and leaning didn't smooth it out. My question
is,
>has anyone had any trouble like this with the Revmaster? I've had to
ream
>out the #3 cyl valve guide twice and the #1 cyl valve guide once, due to
>carbon build up. I've got some new plugs to install, because the ones
in
it
>are original and I'm not sure of their condition. Has anyone had mag
>problems? The engine ran perfectly for 50 or so hours, now this has
>occured. I've added Mystery Oil to the fuel to see if the carbon build
in
>the valve guides would decrease. I've got about 70 hrs. on the plane
with
>no other problems. I hope to hear from any Revmaster flyers who could
offer
>any help. Thanks Dave Dugas








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Re: Rough Revmaster

Hot Wings
 

In a message dated 9/11/00 3:08:25 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
james@... writes:

<< Thanks for the advice on the valve grinding. I will include them in my
specs at the next valve job. So the valves are higher that the seats as you
grind them when you say keep the seats narrow and to the outside edge of the
valve face?

As to compression ratio, Revmaster says stay under 9:1 even with 100LL,
which they recommend to use, so it is not a fuel issue as much as what the
bottom end will take. >>
====================================
By narrow, I mean use the minimum specs from VW. I see many valve jobs
with seat widths around 1.5 to 2 mm. Some think that a wide seat will
transfer heat better and seal better but in practice, due to some other
factors, what you would intuitively think would work - doesn't. I prefer
that the valve contact area show up around the 50% to 75% radius on the valve
face when checked with bluing. Not only does this remove the heat from the
hottest part of the valve it helps to improve the flow a bit. On the subject
of heat - a good valve job is much more important on an air cooled motor as
the cylinder head temps are generally much higher and the heat transfer from
the valve to the head is more critical. If you have any carbon build up on
the valve face it acts like an insulating layer and you end up with a cascade
type of failure. This is one reason for the narrow seat. There is more
contact pressure and tends to be more self-cleaning. A loose valve clearance
will also cause the same problem as the valve spends a little bit of time
rattling into place each time rather than being "guided" into place. There
is also a significant amount of heat passed through the valve stem and if the
clearances are too great that transfer is reduced - and there is more oil
film there to be turned into carbon from an overheated valve. On my ground
bound VWs I usually use about half of the clearance specified by VW for a
stock motor. In fact I have a hard time finding valve guides that are small
enough even when new. It makes for dramatically increased valve life but I
would not suggest this for an aircraft motor since they generally run a bit
hotter and I have had 2 intake valves stick in the past 15 years due to the
tight tolerances.
9 to one compression might be OK for 100LL or even auto gas if flown from
high altitude strips only. If you want to run car gas, I would seriously
consider a lower compression ratio. The VW factory lowered their compression
ratio to 6.6 to 1 (IIRC) on the last versions of the bug motor imported here.
Gene Berg (THE VW man) also recommended lower compression ratios and proved
on his dyno that in mild states of tune (like our aircraft) you lost very
little Hp and actually picked up a few ft.lbs of torque in the mid ranges.
(again right where our direct drive VW run).
I'll keep my opinions on anyone recommending 100LL in a VW to myself for
now.......................if you can't say anything good......................

A couple of more tidbits of opinion:
A stock VW lower is good for about 125 streetable Hp after which you
start having significant reliability problems. 75 to 80 Hp is about the
maximum you should expect to pull from a VW in an aircraft version in cruise
due to heat build up unless you have VERY good cooling ducting/baffling.
There are only so many BTU's that can be transferred from a finite fin area
to the air. Any more Hp than this and you will need to rely on oil cooling
more.


"Think outside the box - but fly in the envelope"
<A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bd5er/Qpage.html">Q-2 page</A>
Leon McAtee