Date   

Re: canopy

Richard Thomson
 

    Hi Chris,

    Have you tried painting more canopy protect over the existing coating, letting it dry then trying to pull it off. Its worked for me in the past.

    Rich T.

On 13/04/2022 01:26, Mike Steinsland wrote:
I have used a rubber wheel specifically designed to remove plastic pin striping and decals off of automotive paint finishes. Just attach it to something as simple as a drill.
I think I have one in the shop I'll check it tomorrow for a part number 
They are pretty cheap and dont hurt the paint. Most auto paint shops will have them, might even find one at C Tire.

Try it on a corner and see how it works.
You may go through a few of them on something the size of a canopy.



On Tue., Apr. 12, 2022, 8:14 p.m. dflybldr, <tebhall@...> wrote:
no ammonia!!!!

On Tue, Apr 12, 2022 at 4:02 PM Rick Hole via groups.io <r.hole=ieee.org@groups.io> wrote:
For the laminate on car windows ammonia works

Sonia (1953-2020) & Rick

On Tue, Apr 12, 2022, 4:36 PM Chris Walterson <dkeats@...> wrote:
  I am working on another project and am trying to remove the protective
coating on the windows. The spray on protective coating seems to be very
thin. If I heat enough to soften the bottom, the covering is too soft
and rips. Tried WD40, hair blower and even put it in the bath tub with
warm water.  With a wood stir stick it took about three hrs to half do
one side.

  I think I will try denatured alcohol next and if that doesn't work I
will try straight alcohol       in me.

Any suggestions??  Thanks  Chris


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Re: canopy

Stan Susman
 

TRY WITE VINAGER 

On Tuesday, April 12, 2022, 07:21:02 PM PDT, Bruce Crain <jcrain2@...> wrote:


I used several pieces of plexiglass cut in pieces so they would fit my hand.  Then I used them to scrape off the protective film.  It doesn’t hurt the canopy plexiglass.  But it did take a long time to get it all off!
I am waiting for a friend of mine who has worked with getting the film off in the past professionally.  I just don’t remember what he used.
Bruce


On Apr 12, 2022, at 8:26 PM, Robert Dixon <rdixon000@...> wrote:


A good reference chart can be found here:


Acrylic, generally (PMMA), though i am not sure of the formulation of the original canopies.

Robert

On Apr 12, 2022, at 18:56, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:



Check for ammonia’s compatibility with plex. It would be a shame to craze the plex because of the chemical that you use.

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rick Hole via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2022 5:03 PM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] canopy

 

For the laminate on car windows ammonia works

Sonia (1953-2020) & Rick

 

On Tue, Apr 12, 2022, 4:36 PM Chris Walterson <dkeats@...> wrote:

  I am working on another project and am trying to remove the protective
coating on the windows. The spray on protective coating seems to be very
thin. If I heat enough to soften the bottom, the covering is too soft
and rips. Tried WD40, hair blower and even put it in the bath tub with
warm water.  With a wood stir stick it took about three hrs to half do
one side.

  I think I will try denatured alcohol next and if that doesn't work I
will try straight alcohol       in me.

Any suggestions??  Thanks  Chris


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Re: canopy

Bruce Crain
 

I used several pieces of plexiglass cut in pieces so they would fit my hand.  Then I used them to scrape off the protective film.  It doesn’t hurt the canopy plexiglass.  But it did take a long time to get it all off!
I am waiting for a friend of mine who has worked with getting the film off in the past professionally.  I just don’t remember what he used.
Bruce


On Apr 12, 2022, at 8:26 PM, Robert Dixon <rdixon000@...> wrote:


A good reference chart can be found here:


Acrylic, generally (PMMA), though i am not sure of the formulation of the original canopies.

Robert

On Apr 12, 2022, at 18:56, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:



Check for ammonia’s compatibility with plex. It would be a shame to craze the plex because of the chemical that you use.

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rick Hole via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2022 5:03 PM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] canopy

 

For the laminate on car windows ammonia works

Sonia (1953-2020) & Rick

 

On Tue, Apr 12, 2022, 4:36 PM Chris Walterson <dkeats@...> wrote:

  I am working on another project and am trying to remove the protective
coating on the windows. The spray on protective coating seems to be very
thin. If I heat enough to soften the bottom, the covering is too soft
and rips. Tried WD40, hair blower and even put it in the bath tub with
warm water.  With a wood stir stick it took about three hrs to half do
one side.

  I think I will try denatured alcohol next and if that doesn't work I
will try straight alcohol       in me.

Any suggestions??  Thanks  Chris


--
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Re: canopy

Robert Dixon
 

A good reference chart can be found here:


Acrylic, generally (PMMA), though i am not sure of the formulation of the original canopies.

Robert

On Apr 12, 2022, at 18:56, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:



Check for ammonia’s compatibility with plex. It would be a shame to craze the plex because of the chemical that you use.

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rick Hole via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2022 5:03 PM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] canopy

 

For the laminate on car windows ammonia works

Sonia (1953-2020) & Rick

 

On Tue, Apr 12, 2022, 4:36 PM Chris Walterson <dkeats@...> wrote:

  I am working on another project and am trying to remove the protective
coating on the windows. The spray on protective coating seems to be very
thin. If I heat enough to soften the bottom, the covering is too soft
and rips. Tried WD40, hair blower and even put it in the bath tub with
warm water.  With a wood stir stick it took about three hrs to half do
one side.

  I think I will try denatured alcohol next and if that doesn't work I
will try straight alcohol       in me.

Any suggestions??  Thanks  Chris


--
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Re: canopy

Mike Steinsland
 

I just Googled " pinstripe removal tool"
That will get you there.
I've always used ones like you see from Mastercraft but I think I would get one of those or consider a wider one.

On Tue., Apr. 12, 2022, 8:26 p.m. Mike Steinsland via groups.io, <MIKESKUSTOMS=GMAIL.COM@groups.io> wrote:
I have used a rubber wheel specifically designed to remove plastic pin striping and decals off of automotive paint finishes. Just attach it to something as simple as a drill.
I think I have one in the shop I'll check it tomorrow for a part number 
They are pretty cheap and dont hurt the paint. Most auto paint shops will have them, might even find one at C Tire.

Try it on a corner and see how it works.
You may go through a few of them on something the size of a canopy.



On Tue., Apr. 12, 2022, 8:14 p.m. dflybldr, <tebhall@...> wrote:
no ammonia!!!!

On Tue, Apr 12, 2022 at 4:02 PM Rick Hole via groups.io <r.hole=ieee.org@groups.io> wrote:
For the laminate on car windows ammonia works

Sonia (1953-2020) & Rick

On Tue, Apr 12, 2022, 4:36 PM Chris Walterson <dkeats@...> wrote:
  I am working on another project and am trying to remove the protective
coating on the windows. The spray on protective coating seems to be very
thin. If I heat enough to soften the bottom, the covering is too soft
and rips. Tried WD40, hair blower and even put it in the bath tub with
warm water.  With a wood stir stick it took about three hrs to half do
one side.

  I think I will try denatured alcohol next and if that doesn't work I
will try straight alcohol       in me.

Any suggestions??  Thanks  Chris


--
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Re: canopy

Mike Steinsland
 

I have used a rubber wheel specifically designed to remove plastic pin striping and decals off of automotive paint finishes. Just attach it to something as simple as a drill.
I think I have one in the shop I'll check it tomorrow for a part number 
They are pretty cheap and dont hurt the paint. Most auto paint shops will have them, might even find one at C Tire.

Try it on a corner and see how it works.
You may go through a few of them on something the size of a canopy.



On Tue., Apr. 12, 2022, 8:14 p.m. dflybldr, <tebhall@...> wrote:
no ammonia!!!!

On Tue, Apr 12, 2022 at 4:02 PM Rick Hole via groups.io <r.hole=ieee.org@groups.io> wrote:
For the laminate on car windows ammonia works

Sonia (1953-2020) & Rick

On Tue, Apr 12, 2022, 4:36 PM Chris Walterson <dkeats@...> wrote:
  I am working on another project and am trying to remove the protective
coating on the windows. The spray on protective coating seems to be very
thin. If I heat enough to soften the bottom, the covering is too soft
and rips. Tried WD40, hair blower and even put it in the bath tub with
warm water.  With a wood stir stick it took about three hrs to half do
one side.

  I think I will try denatured alcohol next and if that doesn't work I
will try straight alcohol       in me.

Any suggestions??  Thanks  Chris


--
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Re: canopy

dflybldr
 

no ammonia!!!!

On Tue, Apr 12, 2022 at 4:02 PM Rick Hole via groups.io <r.hole=ieee.org@groups.io> wrote:
For the laminate on car windows ammonia works

Sonia (1953-2020) & Rick

On Tue, Apr 12, 2022, 4:36 PM Chris Walterson <dkeats@...> wrote:
  I am working on another project and am trying to remove the protective
coating on the windows. The spray on protective coating seems to be very
thin. If I heat enough to soften the bottom, the covering is too soft
and rips. Tried WD40, hair blower and even put it in the bath tub with
warm water.  With a wood stir stick it took about three hrs to half do
one side.

  I think I will try denatured alcohol next and if that doesn't work I
will try straight alcohol       in me.

Any suggestions??  Thanks  Chris


--
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Re: canopy

Jay Scheevel
 

I successfully peeled mine off after 35 years.

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of dflybldr
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2022 5:57 PM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] canopy

 

Buy a new canopy. Spray lat becomes permanent after about 20 years

 

On Tue, Apr 12, 2022 at 3:36 PM Chris Walterson <dkeats@...> wrote:

  I am working on another project and am trying to remove the protective
coating on the windows. The spray on protective coating seems to be very
thin. If I heat enough to soften the bottom, the covering is too soft
and rips. Tried WD40, hair blower and even put it in the bath tub with
warm water.  With a wood stir stick it took about three hrs to half do
one side.

  I think I will try denatured alcohol next and if that doesn't work I
will try straight alcohol       in me.

Any suggestions??  Thanks  Chris


--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus






Re: canopy

dflybldr
 

Buy a new canopy. Spray lat becomes permanent after about 20 years

On Tue, Apr 12, 2022 at 3:36 PM Chris Walterson <dkeats@...> wrote:
  I am working on another project and am trying to remove the protective
coating on the windows. The spray on protective coating seems to be very
thin. If I heat enough to soften the bottom, the covering is too soft
and rips. Tried WD40, hair blower and even put it in the bath tub with
warm water.  With a wood stir stick it took about three hrs to half do
one side.

  I think I will try denatured alcohol next and if that doesn't work I
will try straight alcohol       in me.

Any suggestions??  Thanks  Chris


--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus







Re: canopy

Jay Scheevel
 

Check for ammonia’s compatibility with plex. It would be a shame to craze the plex because of the chemical that you use.

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rick Hole via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2022 5:03 PM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] canopy

 

For the laminate on car windows ammonia works

Sonia (1953-2020) & Rick

 

On Tue, Apr 12, 2022, 4:36 PM Chris Walterson <dkeats@...> wrote:

  I am working on another project and am trying to remove the protective
coating on the windows. The spray on protective coating seems to be very
thin. If I heat enough to soften the bottom, the covering is too soft
and rips. Tried WD40, hair blower and even put it in the bath tub with
warm water.  With a wood stir stick it took about three hrs to half do
one side.

  I think I will try denatured alcohol next and if that doesn't work I
will try straight alcohol       in me.

Any suggestions??  Thanks  Chris


--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus






Re: canopy

Rick Hole
 

For the laminate on car windows ammonia works

Sonia (1953-2020) & Rick

On Tue, Apr 12, 2022, 4:36 PM Chris Walterson <dkeats@...> wrote:
  I am working on another project and am trying to remove the protective
coating on the windows. The spray on protective coating seems to be very
thin. If I heat enough to soften the bottom, the covering is too soft
and rips. Tried WD40, hair blower and even put it in the bath tub with
warm water.  With a wood stir stick it took about three hrs to half do
one side.

  I think I will try denatured alcohol next and if that doesn't work I
will try straight alcohol       in me.

Any suggestions??  Thanks  Chris


--
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canopy

Chris Walterson
 

I am working on another project and am trying to remove the protective coating on the windows. The spray on protective coating seems to be very thin. If I heat enough to soften the bottom, the covering is too soft and rips. Tried WD40, hair blower and even put it in the bath tub with warm water.  With a wood stir stick it took about three hrs to half do one side.

 I think I will try denatured alcohol next and if that doesn't work I will try straight alcohol       in me.

Any suggestions??  Thanks  Chris


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Re: Report of a Q-200 crash today

Bruce Crain
 

Teledyne Continental Motors.  TCM. 


On Apr 12, 2022, at 4:43 AM, Tim <timmrlw@...> wrote:


Thanks for the update Mike.
I have a TCM starter (654046), key/solenoid start, would that be what you refer to as a ‘Cessna’ starter? I guess I need to do some research on the different starters and the internals.

Thanks, Tim


Re: Report of a Q-200 crash today

Tim
 

Thanks for the update Mike.
I have a TCM starter (654046), key/solenoid start, would that be what you refer to as a ‘Cessna’ starter? I guess I need to do some research on the different starters and the internals.

Thanks, Tim


Re: Q-1 partially completed kit for sale

Ryszard Zadow
 

The Rutan Aircraft Flying Experience could really use that.

www.RutanAFE.org 

Ryszard 

On Apr 11, 2022, at 16:10, Bill Higdon via groups.io <willard561@...> wrote:

From HomebuiltAirplanes.com
Quickie Q1 model 54 The most complete unfinished kit available.

The kit is complete as received from the Quickie Aircraft Corporation. All of the original parts, plans,and media are included. Many patterns created during the build are also included. This project (s/n 95) was bought in February of 1979 and built by Jim Gilman of the Ranger Canoe Co. of New Hampshire. If you search this you will find that they build high-end composite watercraft. The build quality of this Quickie is first rate, which is why I bought it. After moving I now have a short grass strip which is not ideal for this design. It is in the perfect stage of completion for transportation. All of the major components are built, but not joined together. It will easily fit on a 16' utility trailer. The motor is still banded to the skid it was originally shipped on. New undrilled prop, and canopy also included. I have collected many of the parts needed to make it a Super Quickie that are available separately. I have many pictures available and all documentation to prove all statements.
Price is $4950. Located about an hour south of Nashville. 765-621-3334 Scott


Re: Report of a Q-200 crash today

Bruce Crain
 

I am with Jim.  I had a Skytech starter.  Blew it up.  Installed a B and C.  Have flown for years with it.
Bruce


On Apr 11, 2022, at 12:56 PM, Jim Patillo <logistics_engineering@...> wrote:


I went thru the starter thing several years ago after increasing piston size to from 6:7.1 to 9:4.1. I installed and blew up 3 Skytech starters before realizing they were not going to work in my engine with electronic ignitions. I then put in a 320H B&C and never had another problem with it. If you are increasing HP and have electronic ignitions, I would recommend B&C for sure. 

Jim 
N46JP Q200

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> on behalf of Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...>
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2022 10:27:35 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io <main@q-list.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Report of a Q-200 crash today
 
Ya, an update for you all.

I called both AeroTech of Louisville and Niagara Airparts.  Mine was the AeroTech part.  Both told me of multiple instances of this pinion gear cracking.  The failures occur with both the Key and Pull Cessna starters.  At this point, if your using the Cessna Starter you may really want to switch to the SkyTech.  Supposedly the SkyTech has a key that breaks and the key protects from the gear failing (the key breaks first).

Had I known this, there is no way I'd have been running a Cessna Starter!
Mike Dwyer

Q200 Website: http://goo.gl/V8IrJF


On Mon, Apr 11, 2022 at 11:30 AM Richard Thomson <richard@...> wrote:

    I went for the SkyTek in the end as well Mike, after having bought the B&C then realising the firewall mod needed. The B&C is belting around in a F1 pylon racer now.

   The C12ST2 seems to start well and only on size 6 feeders.

    It seems odd that the starter pinion should fail, it is usually the Mag couplings isnt it. For me its the main reason to go EI. Next years mod.

    Rich T

   

On 09/04/2022 16:23, Paul Fisher wrote:
I also eliminated the sprag clutch on my key start O-200, but went with the SkyTek starter.  I suspect the B&C starter is better, but the SkyTek didn't require any changes.  Unbolt the old and bolt on the new.  I've got less than 50 hours on it, but so far I'm very happy with it.

I have replaced the sprag clutch multiple times in the last 30+ years.  It would fail "open", so the starter wouldn't turn the engine, it would just slip.  The last time it failed, it failed "closed" such that the starter would continue to spin with the engine running.  That seemed like a failure waiting to happen!  So I got rid of it all together.  I'm much more comfortable with the SkyTek C12ST2.

Paul Fisher
Q-200 N17PF

On Fri, Apr 8, 2022, 23:05 Bruce Crain <jcrain2@...> wrote:
B and C in Newton, KS makes a light weight starter that eliminates the old Sprag Clutch.  It turns over a lot faster than the old starter.  You will need to modify the firewall cut out a small bit but the starter is a solid player!
Bruce Crain


On Apr 8, 2022, at 3:54 PM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:



Thanks for the update, Mike. This is all good stuff to know. Again, sorry about your airplane, but glad you are doing well, and willing to share the results of what you find.

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mike Dwyer
Sent: Friday, April 8, 2022 2:02 PM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Report of a Q-200 crash today

 

So an update on my engine failure.  

I got a bit further into the engine tear down and when I pulled the starter, there was the smoking gun.  The starter motor turns a large gear that goes through a sprag clutch into a small gear that drives the crankshaft.  I have a pull starter on mine so this whole mess disengages from the crankshaft gear when you release the pull handle.  My small gear had disintegrated.  I only found about half of it.  The rest is rattling around in the accessory case somewhere, which happens to be located where the oil pump is driven.  Or possibly a piece of hardened steel got into the oil pump and damaged it.  More to follow, but it looks like the root cause was a starter gear failure.  The part was the almost new Niagara Airparts upgraded Sprag Clutch and it had about 100 hours on it!   On the day of the accident, the plane started perfectly.

Mike Dwyer xQ200

 

Q200 Website: http://goo.gl/V8IrJF

 

 

On Sun, Mar 20, 2022 at 6:39 AM Adam hied <hiedadam@...> wrote:

Hey mike,

Glad you’re okay. I was really sad about the accident. Was really hoping to get in touch with you and do some formation once I finish the install of the new engine in the dragonfly since I’m over on the east coast and my family lives near brooksville.


Re: Reflexor control

Terrence ONeill
 

Great , Jay !!!
I’ll chek ‘em out.

Terry

On Apr 11, 2022, at 1:33 PM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:

Hi  Terry,
 
Have a look at pages 36-42 of linked pdf and you will see the access ports that I put in over the canard (left and right sides). I thank my lucky stars that I put these in. I use them almost all the time for access, maintenance and annual inspections. I have toe brakes and these ports are essential for me to maintain them easily. 
 
 
Cheers,
Jay
 
 
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Terrence ONeill
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2022 1:13 PM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Reflexor control
 
Thanks Paul.  Well heck; I’ve flown with rudder brakes since 1947 and I’m  too old to try to remember where my brakes are when I SUDDENLY need ‘em. 
 
 Learned that lesson— that habit controls in an emergency - trying (one time was enough) to adapt to an ultralight Mitchel's… pull-to-go-down-by reducing angle of attack - pitch-control.  Surviving the impack, when I repaired the landing gear etc. I just modified it to “push to go down - conventional, and all was well thereafter.
 
Has anyone figured our how to modify the Q200 to modify so as to access, then thereafter be able to service the brakes?
 
Terry
 
 


On Apr 11, 2022, at 12:13 PM, Paul Fisher <rv7a.n18pf@...> wrote:
 
Access is exactly why I still have hand brakes.  I'm too old to reach under the instrument panel to maintain toe brakes!  That and I've flown with hand brakes for over 30 years now, so I think I'm used to it.
 
Paul
 
On Mon, Apr 11, 2022, 12:02 Terrence ONeill <troneill@...> wrote:
Sam, I remember your hand brakes, when I visited your plane last year; and mine are the same.
But I really want to change them to have  my brakes on the rudder pedals.
 
Does anypne on the list have converted fromhand to them them on th3 rudders?
How do you access the rudder pedals?
 
Terry


On Apr 11, 2022, at 6:29 AM, Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins@...> wrote:
 
Nick, I use the ratchet type cable.  You can see it here, just aft of the control stick.  I normally only adjust it three times during flight; before takeoff, cruise, and in the landing pattern. BTW, this photo is at least 15 years old, the instrument panel is now completely different.
 
Sam
 
On Sun, Apr 10, 2022 at 1:58 PM Nick Wright <nwright27@...> wrote:
Hi guys. What is the best option for reflexor control? I've thought about using a friction lever in the location where the hand brake once was, but I've also seen some using a push-pull throttle vernier control also. Is one beeter than the other or just preference?
 
 
 
 
 
 



Q-1 partially completed kit for sale

Bill Higdon
 

From HomebuiltAirplanes.com
Quickie Q1 model 54 The most complete unfinished kit available.

The kit is complete as received from the Quickie Aircraft Corporation. All of the original parts, plans,and media are included. Many patterns created during the build are also included. This project (s/n 95) was bought in February of 1979 and built by Jim Gilman of the Ranger Canoe Co. of New Hampshire. If you search this you will find that they build high-end composite watercraft. The build quality of this Quickie is first rate, which is why I bought it. After moving I now have a short grass strip which is not ideal for this design. It is in the perfect stage of completion for transportation. All of the major components are built, but not joined together. It will easily fit on a 16' utility trailer. The motor is still banded to the skid it was originally shipped on. New undrilled prop, and canopy also included. I have collected many of the parts needed to make it a Super Quickie that are available separately. I have many pictures available and all documentation to prove all statements.
Price is $4950. Located about an hour south of Nashville. 765-621-3334 Scott


Re: Reflexor control

Jay Scheevel
 

Hi  Terry,

 

Have a look at pages 36-42 of linked pdf and you will see the access ports that I put in over the canard (left and right sides). I thank my lucky stars that I put these in. I use them almost all the time for access, maintenance and annual inspections. I have toe brakes and these ports are essential for me to maintain them easily.

 

http://n8wq.scheevel.com/documents/build_logs/02_N8WQ-log_Construction-Fuselage.pdf

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Terrence ONeill
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2022 1:13 PM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Reflexor control

 

Thanks Paul.  Well heck; I’ve flown with rudder brakes since 1947 and I’m  too old to try to remember where my brakes are when I SUDDENLY need ‘em. 

 

 Learned that lesson— that habit controls in an emergency - trying (one time was enough) to adapt to an ultralight Mitchel's… pull-to-go-down-by reducing angle of attack - pitch-control.  Surviving the impack, when I repaired the landing gear etc. I just modified it to “push to go down - conventional, and all was well thereafter.

 

Has anyone figured our how to modify the Q200 to modify so as to access, then thereafter be able to service the brakes?

 

Terry

 

 



On Apr 11, 2022, at 12:13 PM, Paul Fisher <rv7a.n18pf@...> wrote:

 

Access is exactly why I still have hand brakes.  I'm too old to reach under the instrument panel to maintain toe brakes!  That and I've flown with hand brakes for over 30 years now, so I think I'm used to it.

 

Paul

 

On Mon, Apr 11, 2022, 12:02 Terrence ONeill <troneill@...> wrote:

Sam, I remember your hand brakes, when I visited your plane last year; and mine are the same.

But I really want to change them to have  my brakes on the rudder pedals.

 

Does anypne on the list have converted fromhand to them them on th3 rudders?

How do you access the rudder pedals?

 

Terry



On Apr 11, 2022, at 6:29 AM, Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins@...> wrote:

 

Nick, I use the ratchet type cable.  You can see it here, just aft of the control stick.  I normally only adjust it three times during flight; before takeoff, cruise, and in the landing pattern. BTW, this photo is at least 15 years old, the instrument panel is now completely different.

 

Sam

 

On Sun, Apr 10, 2022 at 1:58 PM Nick Wright <nwright27@...> wrote:

Hi guys. What is the best option for reflexor control? I've thought about using a friction lever in the location where the hand brake once was, but I've also seen some using a push-pull throttle vernier control also. Is one beeter than the other or just preference?

 

 

 

 

 

 


Re: Reflexor control

Terrence ONeill
 

Thanks Paul.  Well heck; I’ve flown with rudder brakes since 1947 and I’m  too old to try to remember where my brakes are when I SUDDENLY need ‘em. 

 Learned that lesson— that habit controls in an emergency - trying (one time was enough) to adapt to an ultralight Mitchel's… pull-to-go-down-by reducing angle of attack - pitch-control.  Surviving the impack, when I repaired the landing gear etc. I just modified it to “push to go down - conventional, and all was well thereafter.

Has anyone figured our how to modify the Q200 to modify so as to access, then thereafter be able to service the brakes?

Terry



On Apr 11, 2022, at 12:13 PM, Paul Fisher <rv7a.n18pf@...> wrote:

Access is exactly why I still have hand brakes.  I'm too old to reach under the instrument panel to maintain toe brakes!  That and I've flown with hand brakes for over 30 years now, so I think I'm used to it.

Paul

On Mon, Apr 11, 2022, 12:02 Terrence ONeill <troneill@...> wrote:
Sam, I remember your hand brakes, when I visited your plane last year; and mine are the same.
But I really want to change them to have  my brakes on the rudder pedals.

Does anypne on the list have converted fromhand to them them on th3 rudders?
How do you access the rudder pedals?

Terry

On Apr 11, 2022, at 6:29 AM, Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins@...> wrote:

Nick, I use the ratchet type cable.  You can see it here, just aft of the control stick.  I normally only adjust it three times during flight; before takeoff, cruise, and in the landing pattern. BTW, this photo is at least 15 years old, the instrument panel is now completely different.

Sam


On Sun, Apr 10, 2022 at 1:58 PM Nick Wright <nwright27@...> wrote:
Hi guys. What is the best option for reflexor control? I've thought about using a friction lever in the location where the hand brake once was, but I've also seen some using a push-pull throttle vernier control also. Is one beeter than the other or just preference?






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