Re: flight report
Good trip report. I got a question tho... what was the dewpoint? At that temp it would be real easy to get the carb to freeze but shouldn't freeze at high power. Your fuel doesn't have water in it I hope. I had carb icing once. The engine died on base when I pulled the carb heat. After that I built a carb temp gauge out of a digital inside outside temp gauge. Now I can see my carb temp and don't pull the heat unless I need to. Fly Safe, Mike Q200 N3QP
On Dec 17, 2017 21:12, "Kevin Boddicker trumanst@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: flight report
Fun stuff, eh Kevin? I'm trying to get a handle on your cab heat and cabin heat setup. How about sending a few photos? You have two heat muffs right? There should be one for cabin heat and one for carb heat. The cabin heat will use fresh air from the intake area of the cowling and the carb heat would use simply a muff from the inside of the cowling. Is that what you have? Sam
On Dec 17, 2017 8:13 PM, "Kevin Boddicker trumanst@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
|
|
flight report
Kevin Boddicker
Had the opportinity to take to the air yesterday. The mission was to meet Paul Fisher at DVN for lunch.
Had flown once since signing off my condition inspection and all went well. Forecast was sunny and 41F winds light and variable. Arrived at the AP and started the pre heater (hair dryer), did the pre flight, had full fuel. All is good Fired her up, taxied to 11, did the runup, into position, full power, lift off at 80, All is good. Climb out at 100, start a right hand turn on coarse, ALL IS BAD!!! Lost partial power! Applied cab heat, cough, sputter, gaining RPM, seems to be full power. Carb heat off while changing from right turn to left turn (trying to find the AP) to a downwind, still climbing slightly. Power loss again to 2000, 2100 rpm. Again with the carb heat, off with the fuel pump, PRM increases slowly, but getting better. Back to full power with carb heat on, about 2400 rpm. 200’ below pattern altitude, power back to 1700 rpm (that makes you pucker as well) a bit fast on final, but not a problem. Nice touch down, brake hard to get speed down. Make first intersection and clear the active. Carb ice is bad shit! Thought I had a handle on this problem a few years back. I had problems then, because the cabin heat box had an overflow hole to let hot air escape. When I applied carb heat, the air would draw from the overflow hole, across the top of the heat muff and into the carb, rather than from the fresh air inlet in the baffling, through the length of the heat muff and into the carb, taking the path of least resistance. When this happened, the air was not warmed sufficiently, and ice could form. Solution. Cover the overflow on the top of the cabin heat box. No problems since. Back to the story. Did passes down the runway full power. Chopped power and did the second and third. Forth the pass, climb out at 100 to 3000’ and fly around the airport for about 15 min. No sign of that nasty bastard ice! Got on coarse and headed for DVN. Every little noise or bump gets your attention, RIGHT NOW! Took about half the flight to get the edge off. Fair landing at DVN. Taxied to Paul’s hanger. Had a nice lunch. Played with some wires and annunciator boards that Paul had made. Paul got his pre heat going. We both took off from runway 21. Paul followed me for about half the trip home, (just because he could) and turned back. Engine ran fine all the way home and made an excellent LDG at DEH. Now the to conclusion. Remember the cabin heat box? Wellll, I had turned on cabin heat before taxiing to 11 on my first attempt. Thus allowing the engine to pull air from the cabin, across the heat muff, instead of through the muff, and was not getting hot air on runup. Started to form ice and by the time I was 400’ off the ground bad things happened. When I left DVN, I closed the cabin heat on TO and left it that way all the way home, as it wasn’t too cold. A bit chilly when I got there. You can draw your own conclusions, but be aware of carb ice. It will make you sit up and take notice! Merry Christmas Kevin Boddicker TriQ 200 N7868B 445 hrs Luana, IA.
|
|
Re: Torpedo heaters - epoxy contamination?
Bruce McCormack
Carbon monoxide is never our friend. It bonds to the red corpuscles blocking them from moving oxygen.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
For a better alternative surf up ‘ Infrared tube heater gas ‘
On 17Dec, 2017, at 16:08, Sanjay@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote: Is there a problem in using Torpedo heaters in workshop/ hangar while working on composite airplane projects? Thanks Sanjay
|
|
Re: Torpedo heaters - epoxy contamination?
sanjay <Sanjay@...>
Charlie, thanks.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I am considering a Kerosene heater to keep me and the hangar warm, not much epoxy work, but the project is not painted so is there threat of some contamination on composite surface? For curing epoxy I have been using plastic tenting around layup with space heater inside. Thanks Sanjay
-------- Original message -------- From: "Charlie oneskydog@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> Date: 12/17/17 5:40 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Q-LIST@... Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Torpedo heaters - epoxy contamination? Like propane or kerosene ? Propane produces a lot of water vapor, this can react with epoxy cure agents to produce amine blush on the surface of your laminate. Amine blush can be removed by scrubbing with soap and water before sanding. If not removed before sanding it is just spread all over and will compromise subsequent bonding. Kerosene heaters emit vaporized kerosene as well as water vapor. I like local plastic tents with electric space heaters like the radiator kind to keep the layup warm untitled cured. Regards, Charlie Johnson
|
|
Re: Torpedo heaters - epoxy contamination?
Like propane or kerosene ? Propane produces a lot of water vapor, this can react with epoxy cure agents to produce amine blush on the surface of your laminate. Amine blush can be removed by scrubbing with soap and water before sanding. If not removed before sanding it is just spread all over and will compromise subsequent bonding. Kerosene heaters emit vaporized kerosene as well as water vapor. I like local plastic tents with electric space heaters like the radiator kind to keep the layup warm untitled cured. Regards, Charlie Johnson
On Dec 17, 2017, at 3:08 PM, Sanjay@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
|
|
Torpedo heaters - epoxy contamination?
Sanjay@...
Is there a problem in using Torpedo heaters in workshop/ hangar while working on composite airplane projects? Thanks Sanjay
|
|
Re: Update on Quickie Builders Association / Quickheads website
Thanks Jon and Dan,
Looks good. Cheers, Jay Scheevel, Tri-Q still building
|
|
Re: Pre-buy Checklist
Chris Walterson
Shaun----------- I don't have a Q but on my Dragonfly I needed to reinforce the area where my heals sit. After about ten years it was a bit hollow. Drilled it, filled it with micro, and glassed multiple layers on top. I am building a Q200 and this will be incorporated in the canard from the start. Take care-------------- Chris
|
|
Update on Quickie Builders Association / Quickheads website
Hello,
The QBA website has been restored and is back online thanks to Dan’s key assistance.
Looking forward, the site will be reworked into a platform that is better designed for maintenance and upkeep so that situations like these do not happen again.
Thank you for your patience and support, and please do not hesitate to let me know of any issues or suggestions.
Kind regards, Jon
Jon Matcho
Repairing Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E Building a Cozy Mark IV+ Quickie Builders Association Administrator www.quickheads.com Canard Zone Administrator www.canardzone.com Canard Avaitors Mailing List Administrator https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/canard-aviators
|
|
Re: Pre-buy Checklist
I will send you my condition inspection checklist. Seven pages. Sam
On Dec 15, 2017 5:07 PM, "Shaun Milke shaun_milke@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: BRS Chute in a Q2
|
|
Re: BRS Chute in a Q2
|
|
Re: Pre-buy Checklist
If it's actually a Q-200 it'll have factory-built tapered tubular carbon fiber spars, that are semi-exposed in the cockpit. Be sure to coin-tap test them inside the cockpit. Pat
On Dec 15, 2017 3:21 PM, "jay@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Pre-buy Checklist
Look along the top surface of the canard. Any waviness means probable damage from hard landing (disqualifier unless you want to do extensive repairs).
Check log books and see when it last ran (long down time not a good sign). check the locations where torque tubes enter the fuselage for any damage to the glass there means wings were over-flexed, not good. Check cockpit for fuel stains or odors indicating tank leaks. Check tailwheel assembly for cracks. If it is the original 5/8" fiberglass round rod tailspring, you will probably need to replace. A positive sign would be if you see separate cables emerging from the fuselage to control the tail wheel and rudder independently. That would mean that a prior owner has been paying attention and has fixed some or all of the deficiencies in original design. The rest are probably more like regular "plane stuff", or are easily updated. Cheers, Jay Scheevel, Tri-Q, still building
|
|
Pre-buy Checklist
Shaun Milke
Hi and thanks for the add into the group!
I'm seriously considering buying a Q200 and am having a buddy take a look at the airplane for me this weekend. I'm pretty familiar with general items to look for during a prebuy, but I was hoping I could get tips for some Q200-specific items to check for.
Common wear items, likely damage locations, service problems, approximate wear limits, etc. and general tips would be extremely helpful.
Thanks!
Shaun
|
|
Re: BRS Chute in a Q2
According to my modeling, once you reach Vmin the only way to arrest the sink rate is with power, so I can see what you are saying Jerry.
Cheers, Jay Scheevel, Tri-Q, still building
|
|
Re: BRS Chute in a Q2
Larry Severson
Not a chance. But, flying the q200 model in X-Plane a lot would help.
From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...]
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2017 6:07 AM To: Q-LIST@... Cc: Jerry Marstall Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] BRS Chute in a Q2
Another perspective. Would anybody send a non pilot on a solo in a q 200 with only 10 hours of instruction?
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
I'm trying to stay out of this ("if you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all"), but I will provide some real world numbers. I've been flying my Q-200 taildragger for 27 years and have about 1,650 hours on it, so I think I can speak authoritatively about my particular airplane.
In a typical pattern I slow down to 120mph on downwind. Abeam the numbers I slow to 100mph. On short final I slow to 90mph. My plane stops flying at 80mph, so I always touchdown at or above that number.
I have flown 152s. I can't quote the speeds, but I know things happen considerably faster in my Q-200. In my opinion anyone who thinks they are about the same has clearly never flown a Q-200 and is doing the community a disservice by implying they are. Just my opinion.
Paul Fisher Q-200 N17PF
On Dec 14, 2017 4:12 PM, "ryan goodman elboy0712@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: BRS Chute in a Q2
Jerry Marstall <jnmarstall@...>
With AOA I can fly final at 80MPH. However final is with power. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message -------- From: "logistics_engineering@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> Date: 12/15/17 11:36 AM (GMT-05:00) To: Q-LIST@... Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] BRS Chute in a Q2 My approach and landing inumbers are the same as Paul’s.
|
|
Re: BRS Chute in a Q2
My approach and landing inumbers are the same as Paul’s.
Jim Patillo N46JP Q200 1450 hours on my Q
|
|