Date   

Re: Quickie Tri-Q200

Paul Fisher
 

Agreed Kevin!  I played that game too.  I don't know how many times I took the engine off and back on again trying to resolve my alternator problem, but I know it was a LOT!  I put a belt driven B&C alternator up front and it hasn't given me a lick of problem since.  I think the lesson is - if you make it easy to work on, you won't have to work on it!!

Just for another data point - my battery is in the tail just aft of the split line right in front of the bulkhead (FS120?).  Other than needing long (heavy) battery cables, it has worked well there.  But mine is a conventional gear, not a Tri-Q, so this may not be relevant!

BTW, what does the term "IRAN'd" mean? 

Paul Fisher
Q-200, N17PF

On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 11:10 AM, Kevin Boddicker trumanst@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
 

Jon,

I would leave the alternator up front unless you just can’t stand it.
I do have a Plane Power alternator on the rear of my engine, and have had no trouble. 
The reason that the alt was moved to the front in the first place was because of the poor design of the mounting hardware with the original Denso alt. Some of the units made metal shavings, some had bad bearings etc.
Each time there was a problem, the engine had to come off, no small task! Don’t ask how I know, but seven times the first year will educate one.
I would leave the alt there until it needs to be replaced for whatever reason, and then make a decision, fore or aft.
my 2 cents.





Kevin Boddicker
TriQ 200 N7868B   416 hrs
Luana, IA.



On Apr 15, 2017, at 7:35 AM, 'Jon Matcho' jonmatcho@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:


Hello, thanks for the replies.  I left out a detail that this was a flying Tri-Q200 with ~1,200 hours on the airframe and more on the engine.  It’s been well kept, but with the nose gear collapse and prop strike I am having a full tear-down done by a certified shop.  Is it possible to have my O-200 IRAN’d and not need a break-in?

 

Going from the 40lb MT constant speed prop to a fixed pitch and moving the alternator to the rear of the engine, I am expecting to move one or both batteries back to the firewall.  I am not sure how the W&B will come in just yet, but this may be close to a prior configuration for this aircraft – I’ll try to find out.

 

I am also wondering how to manage the break-in with essentially a new/repaired engine, new airframe configuration, and new pilot (me).  

 

Thanks again,

Jon

 

 

 

 

Jon Matcho

 

Repairing a Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E

Quickie Builders Association Administrator www.quickheads.com

Canard Zone Administrator www.canardzone.com

Canard Avaitors Mailing List Administrator https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/canard-aviators

 

 





Re: Quickie Tri-Q200

Kevin Boddicker
 

Jon,
I would leave the alternator up front unless you just can’t stand it.
I do have a Plane Power alternator on the rear of my engine, and have had no trouble. 
The reason that the alt was moved to the front in the first place was because of the poor design of the mounting hardware with the original Denso alt. Some of the units made metal shavings, some had bad bearings etc.
Each time there was a problem, the engine had to come off, no small task! Don’t ask how I know, but seven times the first year will educate one.
I would leave the alt there until it needs to be replaced for whatever reason, and then make a decision, fore or aft.
my 2 cents.





Kevin Boddicker
TriQ 200 N7868B   416 hrs
Luana, IA.



On Apr 15, 2017, at 7:35 AM, 'Jon Matcho' jonmatcho@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:


Hello, thanks for the replies.  I left out a detail that this was a flying Tri-Q200 with ~1,200 hours on the airframe and more on the engine.  It’s been well kept, but with the nose gear collapse and prop strike I am having a full tear-down done by a certified shop.  Is it possible to have my O-200 IRAN’d and not need a break-in?

 

Going from the 40lb MT constant speed prop to a fixed pitch and moving the alternator to the rear of the engine, I am expecting to move one or both batteries back to the firewall.  I am not sure how the W&B will come in just yet, but this may be close to a prior configuration for this aircraft – I’ll try to find out.

 

I am also wondering how to manage the break-in with essentially a new/repaired engine, new airframe configuration, and new pilot (me).  

 

Thanks again,

Jon

 

 

 

 

Jon Matcho

 

Repairing a Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E

Quickie Builders Association Administrator www.quickheads.com

Canard Zone Administrator www.canardzone.com

Canard Avaitors Mailing List Administrator https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/canard-aviators

 

 




Re: Quickie Tri-Q200

quickieaircraft
 

Jon, I'm pretty sure that any real tear down is going to require some form of break-in because the cylinders will get a new hone.  Continental wants >75% power for first hour and then alternating 65-75% for the next hour or two. Several mechanics said "go fly to start the break in process right away," but upon further questioning revealed that they regularly run re-assembled engines up to a total of 30-40 mins to get them set up properly before they turn them over to the pilot with instructions to start break-in immediately.

The big area I can see this impacting is your taxi-time familiarity. For the TriQ this will be a lot easier. If ~30 mins won't be enough time, is it possible for you to get taxi-comfortable before the rebuild or in a different aircraft?  It's not clear what your experience is, but I did find that a little bit of Grumman Cheetah/Tiger and Diamond DA/20 time was helpful to me to get used to similar(-ish) ground handling.

Best,
Emron
TriQ200 ~20hrs


Re: Quickie Tri-Q200

Jon Matcho
 

Hello, thanks for the replies.  I left out a detail that this was a flying Tri-Q200 with ~1,200 hours on the airframe and more on the engine.  It’s been well kept, but with the nose gear collapse and prop strike I am having a full tear-down done by a certified shop.  Is it possible to have my O-200 IRAN’d and not need a break-in?

 

Going from the 40lb MT constant speed prop to a fixed pitch and moving the alternator to the rear of the engine, I am expecting to move one or both batteries back to the firewall.  I am not sure how the W&B will come in just yet, but this may be close to a prior configuration for this aircraft – I’ll try to find out.

 

I am also wondering how to manage the break-in with essentially a new/repaired engine, new airframe configuration, and new pilot (me). 

 

Thanks again,

Jon

 

 

 

 

Jon Matcho

 

Repairing a Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E

Quickie Builders Association Administrator www.quickheads.com

Canard Zone Administrator www.canardzone.com

Canard Avaitors Mailing List Administrator https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/canard-aviators

 

 


Re: Quickie Tri-Q200

Bruce Crain
 


Re: Quickie Tri-Q200

Mike Dwyer
 

Your better off using a 0-200 that has some time on it.  The break in procedure for a new engine is 100% power but that's not the procedure for a new homebuilt...  Idle and taxi time is deadly to a new engine.  Can't you use the engine as is then after you have a few hundred hours on the airframe then rebuild it.

Mike N3QP Q200




On Fri, Apr 14, 2017 at 5:11 PM, 'Jon Matcho' jonmatcho@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
 

Hello everyone, I am sorry to see that I just missed a couple of you at Sun-n-Fun by a day or two, coming in late.  Anyway, I found what I was looking for there – some motivation to kick myself into gear.

 

The big $ task in front of me is to have my O-200 engine overhauled (I *was* thinking to do a minimum-essential IRAN, but am lately with a “new/like-new engine” mindset).  Since the cost of an overhaul approaches the cost of a NEW O-200D engine, I spent some time considering moving to a Rotax 912 (100HP) or 914 (115HP).  There are benefits with that approach, but I am settling back in to bringing my O-200 up to spec. with, probably, new high-compression pistons and possibly new cylinders.

 

I am making two changes:

 

  1. I am losing the heavy MT constant speed prop in favor of a fixed pitch prop.
  2. I am losing the forward-mounted belt-driven alternator in favor of a rear-mounted gear-driven B&C model.

 

Forward weight is being reduced and coming aft.  I also noticed in the builder’s logs (Earnest’s) that he moved the dual batteries from the firewall to behind the seats when he added the MT prop. 

 

My question is:  What am I in for?  What else should I consider?  What am I missing?

 

Any feedback is very much appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Jon

 

 

 

Jon Matcho

 

Repairing a Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E

Quickie Builders Association Administrator www.quickheads.com

Canard Zone Administrator www.canardzone.com

Canard Avaitors Mailing List Administrator https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/canard-aviators

 

 

 

 



Quickie Tri-Q200

Jon Matcho
 

Hello everyone, I am sorry to see that I just missed a couple of you at Sun-n-Fun by a day or two, coming in late.  Anyway, I found what I was looking for there – some motivation to kick myself into gear.

 

The big $ task in front of me is to have my O-200 engine overhauled (I *was* thinking to do a minimum-essential IRAN, but am lately with a “new/like-new engine” mindset).  Since the cost of an overhaul approaches the cost of a NEW O-200D engine, I spent some time considering moving to a Rotax 912 (100HP) or 914 (115HP).  There are benefits with that approach, but I am settling back in to bringing my O-200 up to spec. with, probably, new high-compression pistons and possibly new cylinders.

 

I am making two changes:

 

  1. I am losing the heavy MT constant speed prop in favor of a fixed pitch prop.
  2. I am losing the forward-mounted belt-driven alternator in favor of a rear-mounted gear-driven B&C model.

 

Forward weight is being reduced and coming aft.  I also noticed in the builder’s logs (Earnest’s) that he moved the dual batteries from the firewall to behind the seats when he added the MT prop. 

 

My question is:  What am I in for?  What else should I consider?  What am I missing?

 

Any feedback is very much appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Jon

 

 

 

Jon Matcho

 

Repairing a Quickie Tri-Q200 N479E

Quickie Builders Association Administrator www.quickheads.com

Canard Zone Administrator www.canardzone.com

Canard Avaitors Mailing List Administrator https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/canard-aviators

 

 

 

 


Re: Bushings

John Hartley
 

No drawbacks that I've noticed. Unless you already have no clearance between spinner and cowl or your cg is too for aft (is that even possible? )

I installed mine during revmaster to o-200 swap. I anticipated having a forward cg issue and installed these mounts during the conversion to help address it before it occurred. Come to think of it, I probably wouldn't have considered them if my plane was already flying and just needed new bushings - unless there was an excessive gap between the spinner and cowling and the CG needed top move aft.

My $0.02
John

---In Q-LIST@..., <quickieaircraft@...> wrote :

John, this is neat.  Are you aware of any drawbacks to converting to cone-mounts?  I may not be a candidate due to clearance.

Best,
Emron


Re: Bushings

Jerry Marstall <jnmarstall@...>
 

Thx Jim.  That's a winner.  Greatly appreciated. Jerry



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "logistics_engineering@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...>
Date: 4/12/17 11:56 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Re: Fwd: Bushings

 

Hi Jerry,

Call Fresno Airparts, Fresno,CA. They are about $35.00 for the rubber bushing set.

Regards,
Jim
N46JP


Re: Bushings

Jim Patillo
 

Hi Jerry,

Call Fresno Airparts, Fresno,CA. They are about $35.00 for the rubber bushing set.

Regards,
Jim
N46JP


Re: Bushings

Jerry Marstall <jnmarstall@...>
 

Thanks Kevin.
J



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Kevin Sheely kjsheely1@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...>
Date: 4/11/17 5:43 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: Fwd: Bushings

 

Jerry,

I replaced mine last year using ACS p/n 07-01131 (J-3608-1 Lord Rubber Mount).

Kevin


Re: Bushings

Kevin Sheely
 

Jerry,

I replaced mine last year using ACS p/n 07-01131 (J-3608-1 Lord Rubber Mount).

Kevin


Re: Bushings

Jerry Marstall <jnmarstall@...>
 

I'll check. Thx.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Sam Hoskins sam.hoskins@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...>
Date: 4/11/17 12:04 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Quickie List <Q-LIST@...>
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Fwd: Bushings

 

Jerry, check Ebay. Much cheaper

The only problem is, you don't know how old they are.  I just bought some $16.00 exhaust Blo-Pruf gaskets for $5.00.  They look okay.

Sam

On Tue, Apr 11, 2017 at 6:53 AM, Jerry Marstall jnmarstall@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
 





Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------

Subject: Fwd: Bushings

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung 

Where do you guys buy O200 Motor mount rubber bushings replacements?  Part number?
Thx
Jerry



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone



Re: Bushings

quickieaircraft
 

John, this is neat.  Are you aware of any drawbacks to converting to cone-mounts?  I may not be a candidate due to clearance.

Best,
Emron


Re: Bushings

John Hartley
 

I use a shorter bushing that brings the engine a little further aft  (maybe 1/2") for CG. They've been selling then on eBay ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/282357542042 ) for years. First time you use them, you have to buy a kit. The next time you replace them, you can just buy the rubber for ~$60 for the entire set. 


---In Q-LIST@..., <jnmarstall@...> wrote :

I didn't see it in the catalog. I called them and the sales representative didn't have a clue what I was talking about so I came to the experts on the list.

 I didn't have to sit down it knocked me down



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Sam Hoskins sam.hoskins@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...>
Date: 4/11/17 8:01 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: Quickie List <Q-LIST@...>
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Fwd: Bushings

 

Aircraft Spruce has them. Be sure you are sitting down when you look at the price.


Sam

Sent via wireless Gizmo.

On Apr 11, 2017 6:57 AM, "Jerry Marstall jnmarstall@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
 





Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------

Subject: Fwd: Bushings

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung 

Where do you guys buy O200 Motor mount rubber bushings replacements?  Part number?
Thx
Jerry



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


Re: Bushings

Sam Hoskins
 

Jerry, check Ebay. Much cheaper

The only problem is, you don't know how old they are.  I just bought some $16.00 exhaust Blo-Pruf gaskets for $5.00.  They look okay.

Sam

On Tue, Apr 11, 2017 at 6:53 AM, Jerry Marstall jnmarstall@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
 





Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------

Subject: Fwd: Bushings

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung 

Where do you guys buy O200 Motor mount rubber bushings replacements?  Part number?
Thx
Jerry



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone



Re: Bushings

Jerry Marstall <jnmarstall@...>
 

I didn't see it in the catalog. I called them and the sales representative didn't have a clue what I was talking about so I came to the experts on the list.

 I didn't have to sit down it knocked me down



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Sam Hoskins sam.hoskins@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...>
Date: 4/11/17 8:01 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: Quickie List <Q-LIST@...>
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Fwd: Bushings

 

Aircraft Spruce has them. Be sure you are sitting down when you look at the price.


Sam

Sent via wireless Gizmo.

On Apr 11, 2017 6:57 AM, "Jerry Marstall jnmarstall@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
 





Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------

Subject: Fwd: Bushings

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung 

Where do you guys buy O200 Motor mount rubber bushings replacements?  Part number?
Thx
Jerry



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


Re: Bushings

quickieaircraft
 

Agreed.  You want 8 of part number 530740.  I last ordered a set from A/C Spruce in mid 2013 when they were $16.50 each.  I see they are now $19.50
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/contmountparts.php.

I suggest you measure the metal spacer inside them (p/n 530627-0200) while you have the assembly apart.  It's a thin tube and seems to be the weakest part of the assembly.  I have seen a couple of installations where the spacer had compressed (overtorque, overload, rough landing??). I can't remember the specified length but if the spacers aren't all the same length, I would replace them all (4 total).  A/C Spruce will charge you $29 for each, so I've been buying them from Univair for $18 each.

Best,
Emron
TriQ200 ~15ish hours


 
 


Re: Bushings

Sam Hoskins
 

Aircraft Spruce has them. Be sure you are sitting down when you look at the price.


Sam

Sent via wireless Gizmo.

On Apr 11, 2017 6:57 AM, "Jerry Marstall jnmarstall@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
 





Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------

Subject: Fwd: Bushings

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung 

Where do you guys buy O200 Motor mount rubber bushings replacements?  Part number?
Thx
Jerry



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


Bushings

Jerry Marstall <jnmarstall@...>
 





Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------

Subject: Fwd: Bushings

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung 

Where do you guys buy O200 Motor mount rubber bushings replacements?  Part number?
Thx
Jerry



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

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