Date   

Re: Q drivers in Portland, Or.--Onan's

R. Frisbee
 

I have a Q-2 right outside of Portland at McMinnville. There is also a builder of a Q over in independence and a Tri-Q driver at Lenhardts

Robert Frisbee
IE - Mobile, Embedded, Tablet, UltraBook

"How do you know the chosen ones? No greater love hath a man than he lay down his life for his brother. Not for millions, not for glory, not for fame. For one person, in the dark...where no one will ever know...or see."
-- Sebastian in "Comes the Inquisitor"

From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...] On Behalf Of conlin michael
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2011 10:13 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Q drivers in Portland, Or.--Onan's



Any Q drivers in Portland? Our son lives there and we will be visiting over the holidays from Houston. I've been out of the Q's for a while and wouldn't mind taking a look at projects while there.

-are there any Onan "boat anchors" available in the Houston Texas area? I know there were many out there.

Mike


Q drivers in Portland, Or.--Onan's

Mike Conlin
 

Any Q drivers in Portland? Our son lives there and we will be visiting over the holidays from Houston. I've been out of the Q's for a while and wouldn't mind taking a look at projects while there.
 
-are there any Onan "boat anchors" available in the Houston Texas area? I know there were many out there.
 
Mike


Re: Q2 Metal parts

V.L. Wegner <laser-dart@...>
 

To all those interested in the Q-2 parts---I was amazed by the interest and
did not think the email had time to process when I got the first taker,
followed by many others. Thanks for your interest. Vince



_____

From: Q-LIST@... [mailto:Q-LIST@...] On Behalf Of
V.L. Wegner
Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2011 12:42 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Q2 Metal parts





I have a bunch of factory built metal parts left over from my Q 2
days---possibly enough for one airplane. They are free if you pay for pkg
and shipping from Houston,Tx. Questions? I am @ 281-488-7010.I am moving --
they need to go this week. Vince


Q2 Metal parts

V.L. Wegner <laser-dart@...>
 

I have a bunch of factory built metal parts left over from my Q 2
days---possibly enough for one airplane. They are free if you pay for pkg
and shipping from Houston,Tx. Questions? I am @ 281-488-7010.I am moving --
they need to go this week. Vince


Re: Level problems

Martin Skiby
 

Will do,

Thanks

--- In Q-LIST@..., "Richard" <mylittlemgb@...> wrote:

Martin,

Check out this link, www.aeroperfect.com/mu-9000x_usb.html We have found this unit to work great. Was designed for the R/C world but with one small mod to the bar that you use to center the unit on the wing ( you have to make one )It is easy and dead on. It will also help set the throws so no jigs needed. As for a level point on all my Q's the left side arm rest was the level point. Mine still have the old bubble levels installed. As I remember it do think the plans say that as well. Don't quote me on that I don't have a set of plans here to check for sure. Hope this helps.

Richard Kaczmarek
Fast Little Airplanes
2232 North State Route 559
Woodstock, OH 43084
937-243-7303
fastlittleairplanes@...



--- In Q-LIST@..., Kevin Boddicker <trumanst@> wrote:

Martin,
I will take a stab at this. I too had to replace the main wing in my project. I had no reference to the level lines. I used the fuselage split line, and measured up or down from there to determine the level line.Per plans. Then jigged the fuselage and let the air out of the tires to clear the concrete. I took off the nose gear(hung it from the rafters with tie down straps) and got the canard level with a water line, at the level lines on the hot wire templates. Then used a 2X2 and bondo to hold the canard tips to the floor. Checked the incidence of the canard relative to the fuselage. It happened to be at 0°. Then set the new wing to 0° also. Also per plans. Got a lot of help from my friends too! Must have worked, I have 230 hours on the plane.
Hope all this text helps. If not ask away. I'm sure I can confuse you sufficiently.

Kevin Boddicker
TriQ 200 N7868B 230 hrs
Luana, IA.



On Nov 22, 2011, at 6:08 PM, Martin wrote:

Ok so I need some advise. I purchased my TriQ200 back after many years and damage from Hurricane Hugo (I think). I am replacing the main wing and the entire tail section. Here is my issue. I did not do the smart thing and make a template of the level line from the main wing before I cut it off so now how the heck do I level the plane properly to get the correct incidence in the wing? Remember it is a TriQ so it is on the gear.

Any thoughts on this wouldbe appriciated. Rick I know you are reading this also so please ring in off line.

Thanks all.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Level problems

Martin Skiby
 

No this is great information and what I was thinking about doing. I have had an offer of a jig that I intend on taking up that may speed things up.

Thanks

--- In Q-LIST@..., Kevin Boddicker <trumanst@...> wrote:

Martin,
I will take a stab at this. I too had to replace the main wing in my project. I had no reference to the level lines. I used the fuselage split line, and measured up or down from there to determine the level line.Per plans. Then jigged the fuselage and let the air out of the tires to clear the concrete. I took off the nose gear(hung it from the rafters with tie down straps) and got the canard level with a water line, at the level lines on the hot wire templates. Then used a 2X2 and bondo to hold the canard tips to the floor. Checked the incidence of the canard relative to the fuselage. It happened to be at 0°. Then set the new wing to 0° also. Also per plans. Got a lot of help from my friends too! Must have worked, I have 230 hours on the plane.
Hope all this text helps. If not ask away. I'm sure I can confuse you sufficiently.

Kevin Boddicker
TriQ 200 N7868B 230 hrs
Luana, IA.



On Nov 22, 2011, at 6:08 PM, Martin wrote:

Ok so I need some advise. I purchased my TriQ200 back after many years and damage from Hurricane Hugo (I think). I am replacing the main wing and the entire tail section. Here is my issue. I did not do the smart thing and make a template of the level line from the main wing before I cut it off so now how the heck do I level the plane properly to get the correct incidence in the wing? Remember it is a TriQ so it is on the gear.

Any thoughts on this wouldbe appriciated. Rick I know you are reading this also so please ring in off line.

Thanks all.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: New (and hopefully improved) QBA website. . .

JMasal@...
 

You da man, Dan!

j.

-----Original Message-----
From: dan <dan@...>
To: Q-LIST <Q-LIST@...>; Dragonflylist <Dragonflylist@...>
Sent: Mon, Nov 28, 2011 6:15 pm
Subject: [Q-LIST] New (and hopefully improved) QBA website. . .




The Quickie Builders Association website is back online. You can check
it out here:

http://www.quickheads.com

All of the content and articles are online, but it will take me a few
more days to get some of the "features" updated. The Store, Classified
Ads, and Member Map are down for the next couple of weeks, but they will
be updated and improved by the time they return.

The main improvement at this point is that it's a little less cluttered
and more easy to navigate. As always I appreciate any feedback you
might have about the new look. I also appreciate your patience during
all of this "fall cleaning." ;-)

Cheers,
Dan Yager
QBA Editor
www.quickheads.com







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Level problems

Richard <mylittlemgb@...>
 

Martin,

Check out this link, www.aeroperfect.com/mu-9000x_usb.html We have found this unit to work great. Was designed for the R/C world but with one small mod to the bar that you use to center the unit on the wing ( you have to make one )It is easy and dead on. It will also help set the throws so no jigs needed. As for a level point on all my Q's the left side arm rest was the level point. Mine still have the old bubble levels installed. As I remember it do think the plans say that as well. Don't quote me on that I don't have a set of plans here to check for sure. Hope this helps.

Richard Kaczmarek
Fast Little Airplanes
2232 North State Route 559
Woodstock, OH 43084
937-243-7303
fastlittleairplanes@...

--- In Q-LIST@..., Kevin Boddicker <trumanst@...> wrote:

Martin,
I will take a stab at this. I too had to replace the main wing in my project. I had no reference to the level lines. I used the fuselage split line, and measured up or down from there to determine the level line.Per plans. Then jigged the fuselage and let the air out of the tires to clear the concrete. I took off the nose gear(hung it from the rafters with tie down straps) and got the canard level with a water line, at the level lines on the hot wire templates. Then used a 2X2 and bondo to hold the canard tips to the floor. Checked the incidence of the canard relative to the fuselage. It happened to be at 0°. Then set the new wing to 0° also. Also per plans. Got a lot of help from my friends too! Must have worked, I have 230 hours on the plane.
Hope all this text helps. If not ask away. I'm sure I can confuse you sufficiently.

Kevin Boddicker
TriQ 200 N7868B 230 hrs
Luana, IA.



On Nov 22, 2011, at 6:08 PM, Martin wrote:

Ok so I need some advise. I purchased my TriQ200 back after many years and damage from Hurricane Hugo (I think). I am replacing the main wing and the entire tail section. Here is my issue. I did not do the smart thing and make a template of the level line from the main wing before I cut it off so now how the heck do I level the plane properly to get the correct incidence in the wing? Remember it is a TriQ so it is on the gear.

Any thoughts on this wouldbe appriciated. Rick I know you are reading this also so please ring in off line.

Thanks all.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: New (and hopefully improved) QBA website. . .

quickheads
 

I guess I spoke about patience a little too soon! Yikes! ;-)

I had to upgrade the software before I could add new articles. They are coming (as people send them to me).

Please remember that I haven't built or test flown yet either, so I'm dependant upon others to provide those experiences in the way of articles. Have you sent me an article recently Thomas? (Something to think about.)

That being said, I got a couple of great safety articles and they will be posted within the next couple of weeks also. Stay tuned.

Cheers,
Dan Yager
QBA Editor
www.quickheads.com

On 28.11.2011 20:26, Thomas Cline wrote:
Dan

I really appreciate that! But, what about the article that someone
promised to deliver
about Q-testing, especially about reflexers and everything of interest to
those of us who
are still building a Tri-Q200 and haven't test-flown one yet? Thanks,

Thomas L Cline,
N49X
===

On Mon, Nov 28, 2011 at 7:15 PM, <dan@...> wrote:

**


The Quickie Builders Association website is back online. You can check
it out here:

http://www.quickheads.com

All of the content and articles are online, but it will take me a few
more days to get some of the "features" updated. The Store, Classified
Ads, and Member Map are down for the next couple of weeks, but they will
be updated and improved by the time they return.

The main improvement at this point is that it's a little less cluttered
and more easy to navigate. As always I appreciate any feedback you
might have about the new look. I also appreciate your patience during
all of this "fall cleaning." ;-)

Cheers,
Dan Yager
QBA Editor
www.quickheads.com






------------------------------------

Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: New (and hopefully improved) QBA website. . .

DDaniels <log@...>
 

Wow Dan, I liked it before and I like it now. I would like to ask now if I can borrow some of your enegry.and say thanks for the many things you do for us. Darrell Daniels

----- Original Message -----
From: <dan@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>; <Dragonflylist@...>
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2011 7:15 PM
Subject: [Q-LIST] New (and hopefully improved) QBA website. . .


The Quickie Builders Association website is back online. You can check
it out here:

http://www.quickheads.com

All of the content and articles are online, but it will take me a few
more days to get some of the "features" updated. The Store, Classified
Ads, and Member Map are down for the next couple of weeks, but they will
be updated and improved by the time they return.

The main improvement at this point is that it's a little less cluttered
and more easy to navigate. As always I appreciate any feedback you
might have about the new look. I also appreciate your patience during
all of this "fall cleaning." ;-)

Cheers,
Dan Yager
QBA Editor
www.quickheads.com



------------------------------------

Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: New (and hopefully improved) QBA website. . .

Thomas Cline <tlc49x@...>
 

Dan

I really appreciate that! But, what about the article that someone
promised to deliver
about Q-testing, especially about reflexers and everything of interest to
those of us who
are still building a Tri-Q200 and haven't test-flown one yet? Thanks,

Thomas L Cline,
N49X
===

On Mon, Nov 28, 2011 at 7:15 PM, <dan@...> wrote:

**


The Quickie Builders Association website is back online. You can check
it out here:

http://www.quickheads.com

All of the content and articles are online, but it will take me a few
more days to get some of the "features" updated. The Store, Classified
Ads, and Member Map are down for the next couple of weeks, but they will
be updated and improved by the time they return.

The main improvement at this point is that it's a little less cluttered
and more easy to navigate. As always I appreciate any feedback you
might have about the new look. I also appreciate your patience during
all of this "fall cleaning." ;-)

Cheers,
Dan Yager
QBA Editor
www.quickheads.com



New (and hopefully improved) QBA website. . .

quickheads
 

The Quickie Builders Association website is back online. You can check it out here:

http://www.quickheads.com

All of the content and articles are online, but it will take me a few more days to get some of the "features" updated. The Store, Classified Ads, and Member Map are down for the next couple of weeks, but they will be updated and improved by the time they return.

The main improvement at this point is that it's a little less cluttered and more easy to navigate. As always I appreciate any feedback you might have about the new look. I also appreciate your patience during all of this "fall cleaning." ;-)

Cheers,
Dan Yager
QBA Editor
www.quickheads.com


Re: Level problems

Kevin Boddicker
 

Martin,
I will take a stab at this. I too had to replace the main wing in my project. I had no reference to the level lines. I used the fuselage split line, and measured up or down from there to determine the level line.Per plans. Then jigged the fuselage and let the air out of the tires to clear the concrete. I took off the nose gear(hung it from the rafters with tie down straps) and got the canard level with a water line, at the level lines on the hot wire templates. Then used a 2X2 and bondo to hold the canard tips to the floor. Checked the incidence of the canard relative to the fuselage. It happened to be at 0. Then set the new wing to 0 also. Also per plans. Got a lot of help from my friends too! Must have worked, I have 230 hours on the plane.
Hope all this text helps. If not ask away. I'm sure I can confuse you sufficiently.

Kevin Boddicker
TriQ 200 N7868B 230 hrs
Luana, IA.



On Nov 22, 2011, at 6:08 PM, Martin wrote:

Ok so I need some advise. I purchased my TriQ200 back after many years and damage from Hurricane Hugo (I think). I am replacing the main wing and the entire tail section. Here is my issue. I did not do the smart thing and make a template of the level line from the main wing before I cut it off so now how the heck do I level the plane properly to get the correct incidence in the wing? Remember it is a TriQ so it is on the gear.

Any thoughts on this wouldbe appriciated. Rick I know you are reading this also so please ring in off line.

Thanks all.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Emergency landings Re Bob Farnham un-latched canopy?

Clive Clapham
 

Hi You Guys

Bob thanks for sharing that with us.
Are your gas struts vertical on the header like the "fancope" drawings? where the struts hold the canopy in the closed position?
Where as Chris's and mine and probabley a few others have the struts horizontal so they push the canopy up with very little force.
So may be a less happy outcome? I copied the saftey catch for the side opening canopy, but put it at the top center and made a pull handle with a length of cord so when up and straped in enables the pilot or passenger to pull the canopy down.
Clive.....gobxoy



--- In Q-LIST@..., Bob Farnam <bfarnam@...> wrote:

What happens to an unlatched forward hinged canopy in flight.? I found out about 10 years ago when I took off with the canopy unlatched. First, I was by myself and couldn't close it by myself as I had no good place to grip it to pull down. At pattern speed, the canopy lifted about an inch and when I slowed to 85-90 knots on base, it lifted about 2 inches. There was no discernible change in trim or handling and the landing was normal.
Pretty much of a non-event.
Bob

Quickie Q200 N200QK

Sent from my netbook

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: More action video

Rick Hole
 

Aveo lights- one of my clients reported radio noise with them and solved the
issue with a bypass capacitor from ground to +12 supply at the light unit.
He used an electrolytic capacitor, I would have tried a 0.1 mfd ceramic
first.

The LED units have improved so much they are hard to beat!

Rick Hole

Q2 wing build: aileron slot cores and trailing edges glassed


Re: More action video

Dave Dugas
 

Nice looking installation Jay...I really like my Aveo lights. Perfect chouce for the futuristic Quickie.
Dave Dugas


________________________________
From: "scheevel@..." <scheevel@...>
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 3:36 PM
Subject: [Q-LIST] More action video


 
Hi All,

This is another video ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBipUWD2sOw ) of me at work on my project. This time I was shaping the wingtips. Did most of the work on the foam, then made some plywood backing inserts for the nav/strobe/position lights. Happened upon a good technique: The inserts are 1/4 inch plywood which I mounted with flox to the foam, then applied very thick micro paste to fair them into the existing foam shape (which was previously "sealed" with micro and sanded smooth). Once the micro-paste began to set up, I put peel ply over it and stretched the peel ply back into the contour of the foam. This made a beautiful contour on the micro that only needed minor touch-up sanding. Video shows the process and the finished product mated to the Aveo Engineering nav/strobe/position lights.

BTW, I put the lights on the bench to test and they are incredibly bright, have good strobes, and are a sealed unit weighing a few ounces with nothing to mount inside the plane. Current draw is 0.25 amps for the nav/position lights going up to 1.8 amps when the strobe fires (per side). Boy am I glad I took so long to finish my plane..All this cool stuff to put on it now. ;-)

Cheers,
Jay Scheevel -- Tri-Q, still building




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


More action video

scheevel@...
 

Hi All,

This is another video ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBipUWD2sOw ) of me at work on my project. This time I was shaping the wingtips. Did most of the work on the foam, then made some plywood backing inserts for the nav/strobe/position lights. Happened upon a good technique: The inserts are 1/4 inch plywood which I mounted with flox to the foam, then applied very thick micro paste to fair them into the existing foam shape (which was previously "sealed" with micro and sanded smooth). Once the micro-paste began to set up, I put peel ply over it and stretched the peel ply back into the contour of the foam. This made a beautiful contour on the micro that only needed minor touch-up sanding. Video shows the process and the finished product mated to the Aveo Engineering nav/strobe/position lights.

BTW, I put the lights on the bench to test and they are incredibly bright, have good strobes, and are a sealed unit weighing a few ounces with nothing to mount inside the plane. Current draw is 0.25 amps for the nav/position lights going up to 1.8 amps when the strobe fires (per side). Boy am I glad I took so long to finish my plane..All this cool stuff to put on it now. ;-)

Cheers,
Jay Scheevel -- Tri-Q, still building


Emergency landings

Bob Farnam <bfarnam@...>
 

What happens to an unlatched forward hinged canopy in flight.? I found out about 10 years ago when I took off with the canopy unlatched. First, I was by myself and couldn't close it by myself as I had no good place to grip it to pull down. At pattern speed, the canopy lifted about an inch and when I slowed to 85-90 knots on base, it lifted about 2 inches. There was no discernible change in trim or handling and the landing was normal.
Pretty much of a non-event.
Bob

Quickie Q200 N200QK

Sent from my netbook


Re: Emergency landings

Terry Adams
 

I have been there .........off airport landing, upside down in a sliding
canopy. The roll bar and shoulder harness saved me. When the canopy
fractured it cut a hole through my baseball cap and sliced open the top
of my head, thankfully just a couple of stitches. I used my escape
hammer/axe to break out the side of the canopy enough to wiggle out the
side of the plane. Believe me the cockpit feels allot different when
you are upside down, you pop the harness and are twisting around to get
out hoping the plane doesn't catch fire. Don't count on anyone being
there to help you, you are on your own. I do not believe I could have
gotten out without the escape axe to break the canopy.
I am familiar with two other accidents. Both occurred upon landing at
the airport and in both cases the pilot was still in the airplane until
rescue people arrived to extract them. Neither of these pilots had a
means to break out the canopy. Thankfully for my two friends, neither
of these planes caught fire.

Terry

On 11/25/2011 3:44 AM, Chris Rayner wrote:

Hi all, although most of the emergency landings (crashes) we discuss
happen
because of problems immediately before a landing, it is possible to have
more time to "plan" an emergency landing, in the way we are taught during
training, engine failure or whatever. Does anyone have experience of this
and if so, what's the best thing to do with the canopy before landing? I
have a "per plans" forward hinged canopy with the gas struts on my tail
dragger Q-200 and am just about to attach small lengths of cord with bob
weights on to the catch handles so they can be more easily reached if the
plane is upside down. Obviously it's best if the plane does not invert
though and I wondered what happens if the canopy is unlatched before
landing. How high would it lift on its own and what would happen to the
trim? Also would it be possible (probably the co-pilot) to push the canopy
up on landing, to reduce the likelihood of it turning over, or
wouldn't that
make any difference?

Just thinking about things that I hope will never happen, but you never
know.

Cheers all

Chris Rayner (G-CUIK)




need info

Paul Selmer
 

Sam Hoskins could you contact my off list

paul selmer
paulselmer@...