Date
1 - 15 of 15
Onan, 18 or 20?
Jon Usher <fedxav8r@...>
As stated earlier I recently purchased a Q1 kit. How can I tell if
the Onan engine is the 18 or 20 hp version? (I would like to use a different powerplant than the Onan. Any suggestions would be appreciated) THanks....Jon
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Ryan <rryan@...>
Hi Jon,
The VW engine only adds 75# to the completed aircraft. Ryan Q1 --- In Q-LIST@..., "Jon Usher" <fedxav8r@y...> wrote: As stated earlier I recently purchased a Q1 kit. How can I tell if(I would like to use a different powerplant than the Onan. Any suggestions would be appreciated) Thanks....Jon
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David J. Gall
Jon,
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The only way that I know of to tell the difference is to look at the paperwork... :) Seriously, the "20 hp" was listed as "22.5 hp" by QAC and was the result of shaving the cylinder heads for higher compression, and a minor modification to the carburetter. The shaved heads are junk -- don't use them. Use the 20 hp heads manufactured by Onan specifically for the B48M engine. (These heads came out after QAC pretty much stopped selling Q1 kits.) Whether you start with the 18 hp or the "22.5 hp" engine, the new Onan 20 hp heads will give you a more powerful, more reliable engine. These new heads also require a special graphite head gasket -- don't skimp! If you stick with the Onan there are some definite changes ("deviations from the plans") that need to be made to help reduce vibration and to control temperatures. The installation given in the plans is very likely to result in an overheated engine; read the back issues of QuickTalk/Q-Talk for the mods. Alternate engines? The most popular and successful have been the Rotax 447 and Rotax 503 engines. The 503 "SuperQuickie Solution" plans by Jinx Hawks and Brock McCaman are available on the Yahoo site files area. David J. Gall
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Keith L Welsh <welshq1@...>
A little clarification. Hope you don't mind David.
The only way that I know of to tell the difference is to look at theThe block has some tell tale signs that it's a 20hp model. Also the true OEM 20's have a different carburetor and is very noticable. It sets up higher and is about half again as large. Bigger venturi, 5 air vents to the float bowl, larger fuel tube. Seriously, the "20 hp" was listed as "22.5 hp" by QAC and was theminor modification to the carburetter.QAC never used a 20hp engine. They didn't appear on the market till 1983 and then as the B48M-GAO20 which is the predecessor to the P220 and the Linamar LX 790. The 22.5hp was a modified B48M-GAO18 and was the only version QAC used. It's predecessor is the P218. Each engine is based on the 47.7 CID block. Incidently that 47.7 CID block is the only one available in two hp versions. The shaved heads are junk -- don't use them. Use the 20Those heads originated with the OEM 20hp engine. Big difference is the placement of the spark plug and the domed combustion chamber. Note that only the 22.5hp versions had problems the original 18hp engines didn't and had the same heads. Moral is don't shave or anything else to a set of heads. Whether you start with the 18 hp or the "22.5 hp" engine, the new Onan20 hp heads will give you a more powerful, more reliable engine. These new headsalso require a special graphite head gasket -- don't skimp!Sorry but I haven't been able to see a power difference between the shaved heads and the 20hp heads. And it takes much more than just the heads to produce additional power. Without additional air and fuel, which the new carburators can produce, additional power is just imagination. If you stick with the Onan there are some definite changes ("deviationsfrom the plans") that need to be made to help reduce vibration and tolikely to result in an overheated engine; read the back issues ofQuickTalk/Q-Talk for the mods.Keep in mind you don't read much about the original 18's just those stupid 22.5's. Terry Crouch proves the original baffeling works just fine and I imagine most Onans still sport the same as well. My problems came about to the thinner valve stems found in the newer engines. They can't take the heat without warping that the older ones could. The vibration was controled with the optional Kevlar engine mount in place of the aluminum one. It came standard with the 22.5 option. Hope this helps Keith Welsh
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David J. Gall
Keith,
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I don't mind at all; I'm glad you jumped in here. Lots of good info, and I learned some, too! But I'm still not an "engine guy." :) David J. Gall PS Maybe I'm a "wannabe engine guy" ;^}
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Mark/Pat Pearson/Pound <wlkabout@...>
David:
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What did you say the serial no. of your Q1 is? Mine is 0229 and I know I had the 18HP Onan -- I'm pretty sure the modified engine wasn't available until after I bought my kit. I have replaced mine with a Rotax 532, though I know where my original engine is, if you want a spare or a parts engine. Mark A. Pearson "David J. Gall" wrote:
Keith,
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David J. Gall
Mark,
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Mine is kit #545. It came with the "22.5 hp" engine but without an oil cooler. I've put a lot of work into removing the casting flash from the outside of the block to promote better airflow around the valve areas. I've also torn it down and balanced all the internals, removed the governer parts, etc., and put on electonic ignition and the "20 hp" Onan heads and gaskets (GA020). I think I'll just fly with this until I can't stand it. Then I might put in the P224/Linamar LX990 or ...? David J. Gall
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Mark/Pat Pearson/Pound <wlkabout@...>
You really do want to be an engine guy!! Success!!
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"David J. Gall" wrote:
Mark,
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jzvbike
David... how did you install the electronic ingnition? i have the 18hp and
one magnet in the fly wheel is broken....how do you find parts for the engine? once I intall the engine I will be ready for some taxing thanks Joaquin
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jzvbike
Thanks David.
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David J. Gall
Joaquin,
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The electronic ignition was a bolt-on offered by the factory that I bought from a local Onan dealer. It was called the "Magna-arc" or "Magna-spark" ignition, or something like that. It replaces the breaker points with a hall effect sensor, that's all. The hall effect sensor is triggered by a small magnet mounted on a nylon arm and swung by the same little pushrod that triggers your points now. I also bought the updated, smaller, more powerful coil, but I'm not sure I'll use it yet. Broken flywheel magnets? I have no idea. Parts? I have no idea. I have the old parts manual, but I think all the part numbers are obsolete by now. I'd start at the local Onan (Linamar, John Deere?) dealer, though. David J. Gall
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jzvbike
thanks Welsh .... my worry also is do the magnets have to be lock in a
specific position or this will not affect the timing on the magneto? Since the flywheel is lock in a fix place?
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Keith L Welsh <welshq1@...>
Haven't heard much about the magnets in the Onan flywheel in years.....
BUT in the past magnets coming loose have been known to lock up engines. The magnets were originally glued to the housing with spaces in between. They really need to be better secured. What can be done is to apply JB Weld between, on top and bottom thereby locking them in place by sorta encasing them as a unit. Any chance of any one magnet shifting is eliminated. One of my magnets had come loose and I got lucky enough to find it before the worst happened. And that was many years ago. The engine has been off the plane several times since and will be again after Mattoon and the JB all still looks as it did the day it was done. Welsh
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David J. Gall
The flywheel has nothing to do with the ignition timing. The timing is
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triggered on top of the engine. David J. Gall
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Keith L Welsh <welshq1@...>
my worry also is do the magnets have to be lock in aAn electrical person will have to explain the necessity of the equal spacing of the magnets. Since they were done that way at the start I would make sure I kept them that way. And balance might be another concern. Keith Welsh
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