Jim-Bob 6-pack article


raynergang <rayners@...>
 

Bob, I have just received today (the Atlantic is big) the Q-Talk and I just want to say thanks for the article. It's good to see all the information on these useful (necessary) modifications in one place with enough detail to get to work. I'm pleased to say I have built most of them mods into my Q - except the toe brakes (kept the hand operation, based on advice from an experienced friend) and the bellcrank for the rudder/tail wheel cables.

I have a question about the bellcrank: you say that Al Kittleson's approach is equally good and it's the way I was expecting to do the job. Is there any advantage to the bellcrank method, because otherwise it seems to be more complicated (so less reliable?) for no reason? Another simpler way could also be to use two cables from the link on each side - with the suitable turn-buckles and springs as necessary.

I already used a beefed-up lower rudder bearing (I saw a Q with a broken original one) and so it is now the same 3/4" phenolic as the elevator centre mounts. Is that beefed up enough do you know?

Thanks for the info.

Chris Rayner (Q-200; painting and decorating it)

PS - to Doug, welcome to the hot seat. You've got your work cut out to better the Richardson team (so thanks to them also), but I'm certainly looking forward to good things. Get printing those decals - I expect to claim one!


Bob Farnam <bfarnam@...>
 

Bob F.
N200QK

-----Original Message-----
From: raynergang [mailto:rayners@...]
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 11:11 AM
To: Q-List
Subject: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article


Bob, I have just received today (the Atlantic is big) the Q-Talk and I
just want to say thanks for the article. It's good to see all the
information on these useful (necessary) modifications in one place with
enough detail to get to work. I'm pleased to say I have built most of them
mods into my Q - except the toe brakes (kept the hand operation, based on
advice from an experienced friend) and the bellcrank for the rudder/tail
wheel cables.

I have a question about the bellcrank: you say that Al Kittleson's
approach is equally good and it's the way I was expecting to do the job. Is
there any advantage to the bellcrank method, because otherwise it seems to
be more complicated (so less reliable?) for no reason? Another simpler way
could also be to use two cables from the link on each side - with the
suitable turn-buckles and springs as necessary.

Chris,

The advantages to the belcrank method over Kittleson's approach is that it
was easy to make it strong. It is also convenient to adjust the rudder
pedal/rudder/tailwheel ratios easily. It is not as easy to modify the lower
rudder bearing to take the 600 or so pounds of load that I wanted it to
take. The US Air Force physiology handbook says that 150 lbs of load is
reasonable to generate with your foot. The rudder pedals multiply that by 2x
each giving a total of 600 pounds load easily possible. If you can make it
safe for that load, Kittleson's method is simpler and is what is used by
most certified taildraggers.

The problem with the two cables originating at the link without the
belcrank is that the loads still end up at the rudder bearing, because the
tailwheel springs will stretch, thereby transferring the load to the rudder.
Better to use either Kittleson's approach, or the belcrank approach.

Re hand brakes v. toe brakes, I chose toe brakes because that is what I
was used to plus I wanted both hands free for throttle, stick and reflexer.
I understand that in Europe, hand brakes are much more widespread than in
the US. Both clearly work, so use whatever you are comfortable with. The
important thing is to get the differential braking which is such an
important part of control of any taildragger.

Bob F.
N200QK



I already used a beefed-up lower rudder bearing (I saw a Q with a broken
original one) and so it is now the same 3/4" phenolic as the elevator centre
mounts. Is that beefed up enough do you know?

Thanks for the info.

Chris Rayner (Q-200; painting and decorating it)

PS - to Doug, welcome to the hot seat. You've got your work cut out to
better the Richardson team (so thanks to them also), but I'm certainly
looking forward to good things. Get printing those decals - I expect to
claim one!





Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--

Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


raynergang <rayners@...>
 

Bob, thanks for the info. I think (for simplicity at the moment) I'll go with the Al K. approach as I built in the heavy duty rudder mounting. I don't know for sure that it will take the 600lbs you mention, but I think it should and unless anyone has a more definite idea that it won't, it seems a good option. I'll use the compression springs between rudder and tailwheel.
Hand operated differential brakes also seem OK for me. As you say, independence left and right is the main issue. Thanks again for the reply.
Chris Rayner

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Farnam" <bfarnam@...>
To: <Q-LIST@...>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 7:23 PM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article





Bob F.
N200QK

-----Original Message-----
From: raynergang [mailto:rayners@...]
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 11:11 AM
To: Q-List
Subject: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article


Bob, I have just received today (the Atlantic is big) the Q-Talk and I
just want to say thanks for the article. It's good to see all the
information on these useful (necessary) modifications in one place with
enough detail to get to work. I'm pleased to say I have built most of them
mods into my Q - except the toe brakes (kept the hand operation, based on
advice from an experienced friend) and the bellcrank for the rudder/tail
wheel cables.

I have a question about the bellcrank: you say that Al Kittleson's
approach is equally good and it's the way I was expecting to do the job. Is
there any advantage to the bellcrank method, because otherwise it seems to
be more complicated (so less reliable?) for no reason? Another simpler way
could also be to use two cables from the link on each side - with the
suitable turn-buckles and springs as necessary.

Chris,

The advantages to the belcrank method over Kittleson's approach is that it
was easy to make it strong. It is also convenient to adjust the rudder
pedal/rudder/tailwheel ratios easily. It is not as easy to modify the lower
rudder bearing to take the 600 or so pounds of load that I wanted it to
take. The US Air Force physiology handbook says that 150 lbs of load is
reasonable to generate with your foot. The rudder pedals multiply that by 2x
each giving a total of 600 pounds load easily possible. If you can make it
safe for that load, Kittleson's method is simpler and is what is used by
most certified taildraggers.

The problem with the two cables originating at the link without the
belcrank is that the loads still end up at the rudder bearing, because the
tailwheel springs will stretch, thereby transferring the load to the rudder.
Better to use either Kittleson's approach, or the belcrank approach.

Re hand brakes v. toe brakes, I chose toe brakes because that is what I
was used to plus I wanted both hands free for throttle, stick and reflexer.
I understand that in Europe, hand brakes are much more widespread than in
the US. Both clearly work, so use whatever you are comfortable with. The
important thing is to get the differential braking which is such an
important part of control of any taildragger.

Bob F.
N200QK



I already used a beefed-up lower rudder bearing (I saw a Q with a broken
original one) and so it is now the same 3/4" phenolic as the elevator centre
mounts. Is that beefed up enough do you know?

Thanks for the info.

Chris Rayner (Q-200; painting and decorating it)

PS - to Doug, welcome to the hot seat. You've got your work cut out to
better the Richardson team (so thanks to them also), but I'm certainly
looking forward to good things. Get printing those decals - I expect to
claim one!




Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--

Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.







Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org


Yahoo! Groups Links









Peter Harris <peterjfharris@...>
 

Bob in relation to the two different cable mods , which method will best maintain tailwheel cable tension during the ground run when the tail spring is flexing ? In the plans version the tension is taken up by the pilot at the pedals.
Peter

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Farnam
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 5:23 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article




Bob F.
N200QK

-----Original Message-----
From: raynergang [mailto:rayners@...]
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 11:11 AM
To: Q-List
Subject: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article


Bob, I have just received today (the Atlantic is big) the Q-Talk and I
just want to say thanks for the article. It's good to see all the
information on these useful (necessary) modifications in one place with
enough detail to get to work. I'm pleased to say I have built most of them
mods into my Q - except the toe brakes (kept the hand operation, based on
advice from an experienced friend) and the bellcrank for the rudder/tail
wheel cables.

I have a question about the bellcrank: you say that Al Kittleson's
approach is equally good and it's the way I was expecting to do the job. Is
there any advantage to the bellcrank method, because otherwise it seems to
be more complicated (so less reliable?) for no reason? Another simpler way
could also be to use two cables from the link on each side - with the
suitable turn-buckles and springs as necessary.

Chris,

The advantages to the belcrank method over Kittleson's approach is that it
was easy to make it strong. It is also convenient to adjust the rudder
pedal/rudder/tailwheel ratios easily. It is not as easy to modify the lower
rudder bearing to take the 600 or so pounds of load that I wanted it to
take. The US Air Force physiology handbook says that 150 lbs of load is
reasonable to generate with your foot. The rudder pedals multiply that by 2x
each giving a total of 600 pounds load easily possible. If you can make it
safe for that load, Kittleson's method is simpler and is what is used by
most certified taildraggers.

The problem with the two cables originating at the link without the
belcrank is that the loads still end up at the rudder bearing, because the
tailwheel springs will stretch, thereby transferring the load to the rudder.
Better to use either Kittleson's approach, or the belcrank approach.

Re hand brakes v. toe brakes, I chose toe brakes because that is what I
was used to plus I wanted both hands free for throttle, stick and reflexer.
I understand that in Europe, hand brakes are much more widespread than in
the US. Both clearly work, so use whatever you are comfortable with. The
important thing is to get the differential braking which is such an
important part of control of any taildragger.

Bob F.
N200QK



I already used a beefed-up lower rudder bearing (I saw a Q with a broken
original one) and so it is now the same 3/4" phenolic as the elevator centre
mounts. Is that beefed up enough do you know?

Thanks for the info.

Chris Rayner (Q-200; painting and decorating it)

PS - to Doug, welcome to the hot seat. You've got your work cut out to
better the Richardson team (so thanks to them also), but I'm certainly
looking forward to good things. Get printing those decals - I expect to
claim one!





Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--

Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.







Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


Bob Farnam <bfarnam@...>
 

Peter,

Probably the belcrank approach might maintain the tailwheel cable tension
better, but only marginally so. It has slightly better geometry when the
tailspring flexes. I doubt that it would make much difference in the real
world. Kittleson's old airplane is now owned by Geoff Rutledge who shares my
hangar. It seems to work every bit as well as mine. In the plans version,
the cables are tensioned first by the pedal return springs, and extra
tension comes from the pilot.

Bob F.
N200QK

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Harris [mailto:peterjfharris@...]
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 1:58 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article


Bob in relation to the two different cable mods , which method will best
maintain tailwheel cable tension during the ground run when the tail spring
is flexing ? In the plans version the tension is taken up by the pilot at
the pedals.
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Farnam
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 5:23 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article




Bob F.
N200QK

-----Original Message-----
From: raynergang [mailto:rayners@...]
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 11:11 AM
To: Q-List
Subject: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article


Bob, I have just received today (the Atlantic is big) the Q-Talk and I
just want to say thanks for the article. It's good to see all the
information on these useful (necessary) modifications in one place with
enough detail to get to work. I'm pleased to say I have built most of
them
mods into my Q - except the toe brakes (kept the hand operation, based
on
advice from an experienced friend) and the bellcrank for the rudder/tail
wheel cables.

I have a question about the bellcrank: you say that Al Kittleson's
approach is equally good and it's the way I was expecting to do the job.
Is
there any advantage to the bellcrank method, because otherwise it seems
to
be more complicated (so less reliable?) for no reason? Another simpler
way
could also be to use two cables from the link on each side - with the
suitable turn-buckles and springs as necessary.

Chris,

The advantages to the belcrank method over Kittleson's approach is
that it
was easy to make it strong. It is also convenient to adjust the rudder
pedal/rudder/tailwheel ratios easily. It is not as easy to modify the
lower
rudder bearing to take the 600 or so pounds of load that I wanted it to
take. The US Air Force physiology handbook says that 150 lbs of load is
reasonable to generate with your foot. The rudder pedals multiply that
by 2x
each giving a total of 600 pounds load easily possible. If you can make
it
safe for that load, Kittleson's method is simpler and is what is used by
most certified taildraggers.

The problem with the two cables originating at the link without the
belcrank is that the loads still end up at the rudder bearing, because
the
tailwheel springs will stretch, thereby transferring the load to the
rudder.
Better to use either Kittleson's approach, or the belcrank approach.

Re hand brakes v. toe brakes, I chose toe brakes because that is what
I
was used to plus I wanted both hands free for throttle, stick and
reflexer.
I understand that in Europe, hand brakes are much more widespread than
in
the US. Both clearly work, so use whatever you are comfortable with. The
important thing is to get the differential braking which is such an
important part of control of any taildragger.

Bob F.
N200QK



I already used a beefed-up lower rudder bearing (I saw a Q with a
broken
original one) and so it is now the same 3/4" phenolic as the elevator
centre
mounts. Is that beefed up enough do you know?

Thanks for the info.

Chris Rayner (Q-200; painting and decorating it)

PS - to Doug, welcome to the hot seat. You've got your work cut out
to
better the Richardson team (so thanks to them also), but I'm certainly
looking forward to good things. Get printing those decals - I expect to
claim one!





Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
--

Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.







Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





--------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.







Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


David J. Gall
 

Bob,

Thanks for the excellent article.


David J. Gall


Peter Harris <peterjfharris@...>
 

Bob thanks . I decided to keep the plans steering cable construction because I have a preference to keep the tailwheel connected directly to the pedals as operation of the tailwheel is then direct in contact with the pilot and no possibility of slack under any circumstances. We fitted an improved tailspring designed by John Tenhave as my original broken kit tailspring was very poorly made of solid glass and looked like 50% resin. The new tailspring is tubular glass with excess resin removed under pressure and we believe is very unlikely to break.
I guess separate cables could be run to the rudder from the pedals if this was a concern.
Peter

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Farnam
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 8:16 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article


Peter,

Probably the belcrank approach might maintain the tailwheel cable tension
better, but only marginally so. It has slightly better geometry when the
tailspring flexes. I doubt that it would make much difference in the real
world. Kittleson's old airplane is now owned by Geoff Rutledge who shares my
hangar. It seems to work every bit as well as mine. In the plans version,
the cables are tensioned first by the pedal return springs, and extra
tension comes from the pilot.

Bob F.
N200QK

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Harris [mailto:peterjfharris@...]
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 1:58 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article


Bob in relation to the two different cable mods , which method will best
maintain tailwheel cable tension during the ground run when the tail spring
is flexing ? In the plans version the tension is taken up by the pilot at
the pedals.
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Farnam
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 5:23 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article




Bob F.
N200QK

-----Original Message-----
From: raynergang [mailto:rayners@...]
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 11:11 AM
To: Q-List
Subject: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article


Bob, I have just received today (the Atlantic is big) the Q-Talk and I
just want to say thanks for the article. It's good to see all the
information on these useful (necessary) modifications in one place with
enough detail to get to work. I'm pleased to say I have built most of
them
mods into my Q - except the toe brakes (kept the hand operation, based
on
advice from an experienced friend) and the bellcrank for the rudder/tail
wheel cables.

I have a question about the bellcrank: you say that Al Kittleson's
approach is equally good and it's the way I was expecting to do the job.
Is
there any advantage to the bellcrank method, because otherwise it seems
to
be more complicated (so less reliable?) for no reason? Another simpler
way
could also be to use two cables from the link on each side - with the
suitable turn-buckles and springs as necessary.

Chris,

The advantages to the belcrank method over Kittleson's approach is
that it
was easy to make it strong. It is also convenient to adjust the rudder
pedal/rudder/tailwheel ratios easily. It is not as easy to modify the
lower
rudder bearing to take the 600 or so pounds of load that I wanted it to
take. The US Air Force physiology handbook says that 150 lbs of load is
reasonable to generate with your foot. The rudder pedals multiply that
by 2x
each giving a total of 600 pounds load easily possible. If you can make
it
safe for that load, Kittleson's method is simpler and is what is used by
most certified taildraggers.

The problem with the two cables originating at the link without the
belcrank is that the loads still end up at the rudder bearing, because
the
tailwheel springs will stretch, thereby transferring the load to the
rudder.
Better to use either Kittleson's approach, or the belcrank approach.

Re hand brakes v. toe brakes, I chose toe brakes because that is what
I
was used to plus I wanted both hands free for throttle, stick and
reflexer.
I understand that in Europe, hand brakes are much more widespread than
in
the US. Both clearly work, so use whatever you are comfortable with. The
important thing is to get the differential braking which is such an
important part of control of any taildragger.

Bob F.
N200QK



I already used a beefed-up lower rudder bearing (I saw a Q with a
broken
original one) and so it is now the same 3/4" phenolic as the elevator
centre
mounts. Is that beefed up enough do you know?

Thanks for the info.

Chris Rayner (Q-200; painting and decorating it)

PS - to Doug, welcome to the hot seat. You've got your work cut out
to
better the Richardson team (so thanks to them also), but I'm certainly
looking forward to good things. Get printing those decals - I expect to
claim one!





Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
--

Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.







Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





--------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.







Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.







Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


Bob Farnam <bfarnam@...>
 

Message-----
From: Peter Harris [mailto:peterjfharris@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 1:15 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article



Bob thanks . I decided to keep the plans steering cable construction
because I have a preference to keep the tailwheel connected directly to the
pedals as operation of the tailwheel is then direct in contact with the
pilot and no possibility of slack under any circumstances. We fitted an
improved tailspring designed by John Tenhave as my original broken kit
tailspring was very poorly made of solid glass and looked like 50% resin.
The new tailspring is tubular glass with excess resin removed under pressure
and we believe is very unlikely to break.


" I guess separate cables could be run to the rudder from the pedals if
this was a concern. "


Peter,
If you did that, you could at least incorporate the tailwheel steering
springs. I think they are worthwhile.

Bob F
N200QK

Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Farnam
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 8:16 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article


Peter,

Probably the belcrank approach might maintain the tailwheel cable
tension
better, but only marginally so. It has slightly better geometry when the
tailspring flexes. I doubt that it would make much difference in the
real
world. Kittleson's old airplane is now owned by Geoff Rutledge who
shares my
hangar. It seems to work every bit as well as mine. In the plans
version,
the cables are tensioned first by the pedal return springs, and extra
tension comes from the pilot.

Bob F.
N200QK

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Harris [mailto:peterjfharris@...]
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 1:58 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article


Bob in relation to the two different cable mods , which method will
best
maintain tailwheel cable tension during the ground run when the tail
spring
is flexing ? In the plans version the tension is taken up by the pilot
at
the pedals.
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Farnam
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 5:23 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article




Bob F.
N200QK

-----Original Message-----
From: raynergang [mailto:rayners@...]
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 11:11 AM
To: Q-List
Subject: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article


Bob, I have just received today (the Atlantic is big) the Q-Talk
and I
just want to say thanks for the article. It's good to see all the
information on these useful (necessary) modifications in one place
with
enough detail to get to work. I'm pleased to say I have built most
of
them
mods into my Q - except the toe brakes (kept the hand operation,
based
on
advice from an experienced friend) and the bellcrank for the
rudder/tail
wheel cables.

I have a question about the bellcrank: you say that Al Kittleson's
approach is equally good and it's the way I was expecting to do the
job.
Is
there any advantage to the bellcrank method, because otherwise it
seems
to
be more complicated (so less reliable?) for no reason? Another
simpler
way
could also be to use two cables from the link on each side - with
the
suitable turn-buckles and springs as necessary.

Chris,

The advantages to the belcrank method over Kittleson's approach is
that it
was easy to make it strong. It is also convenient to adjust the
rudder
pedal/rudder/tailwheel ratios easily. It is not as easy to modify
the
lower
rudder bearing to take the 600 or so pounds of load that I wanted it
to
take. The US Air Force physiology handbook says that 150 lbs of load
is
reasonable to generate with your foot. The rudder pedals multiply
that
by 2x
each giving a total of 600 pounds load easily possible. If you can
make
it
safe for that load, Kittleson's method is simpler and is what is
used by
most certified taildraggers.

The problem with the two cables originating at the link without
the
belcrank is that the loads still end up at the rudder bearing,
because
the
tailwheel springs will stretch, thereby transferring the load to the
rudder.
Better to use either Kittleson's approach, or the belcrank approach.

Re hand brakes v. toe brakes, I chose toe brakes because that is
what
I
was used to plus I wanted both hands free for throttle, stick and
reflexer.
I understand that in Europe, hand brakes are much more widespread
than
in
the US. Both clearly work, so use whatever you are comfortable with.
The
important thing is to get the differential braking which is such an
important part of control of any taildragger.

Bob F.
N200QK



I already used a beefed-up lower rudder bearing (I saw a Q with a
broken
original one) and so it is now the same 3/4" phenolic as the
elevator
centre
mounts. Is that beefed up enough do you know?

Thanks for the info.

Chris Rayner (Q-200; painting and decorating it)

PS - to Doug, welcome to the hot seat. You've got your work cut
out
to
better the Richardson team (so thanks to them also), but I'm
certainly
looking forward to good things. Get printing those decals - I expect
to
claim one!





Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






--------------------------------------------------------------------
----
----
--

Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.







Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





----------------------------------------------------------------------
----
----
Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.







Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
--
Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.







Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





--------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.







Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--

Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


Peter Harris <peterjfharris@...>
 

Thanks Bob. It is a good idea now added to my list.
Peter

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Farnam
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 9:36 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article




Message-----
From: Peter Harris [mailto:peterjfharris@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 1:15 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article



Bob thanks . I decided to keep the plans steering cable construction
because I have a preference to keep the tailwheel connected directly to the
pedals as operation of the tailwheel is then direct in contact with the
pilot and no possibility of slack under any circumstances. We fitted an
improved tailspring designed by John Tenhave as my original broken kit
tailspring was very poorly made of solid glass and looked like 50% resin.
The new tailspring is tubular glass with excess resin removed under pressure
and we believe is very unlikely to break.


" I guess separate cables could be run to the rudder from the pedals if
this was a concern. "


Peter,
If you did that, you could at least incorporate the tailwheel steering
springs. I think they are worthwhile.

Bob F
N200QK

Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Farnam
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 8:16 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article


Peter,

Probably the belcrank approach might maintain the tailwheel cable
tension
better, but only marginally so. It has slightly better geometry when the
tailspring flexes. I doubt that it would make much difference in the
real
world. Kittleson's old airplane is now owned by Geoff Rutledge who
shares my
hangar. It seems to work every bit as well as mine. In the plans
version,
the cables are tensioned first by the pedal return springs, and extra
tension comes from the pilot.

Bob F.
N200QK

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Harris [mailto:peterjfharris@...]
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 1:58 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article


Bob in relation to the two different cable mods , which method will
best
maintain tailwheel cable tension during the ground run when the tail
spring
is flexing ? In the plans version the tension is taken up by the pilot
at
the pedals.
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Farnam
To: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 5:23 AM
Subject: RE: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article




Bob F.
N200QK

-----Original Message-----
From: raynergang [mailto:rayners@...]
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 11:11 AM
To: Q-List
Subject: [Q-LIST] Jim-Bob 6-pack article


Bob, I have just received today (the Atlantic is big) the Q-Talk
and I
just want to say thanks for the article. It's good to see all the
information on these useful (necessary) modifications in one place
with
enough detail to get to work. I'm pleased to say I have built most
of
them
mods into my Q - except the toe brakes (kept the hand operation,
based
on
advice from an experienced friend) and the bellcrank for the
rudder/tail
wheel cables.

I have a question about the bellcrank: you say that Al Kittleson's
approach is equally good and it's the way I was expecting to do the
job.
Is
there any advantage to the bellcrank method, because otherwise it
seems
to
be more complicated (so less reliable?) for no reason? Another
simpler
way
could also be to use two cables from the link on each side - with
the
suitable turn-buckles and springs as necessary.

Chris,

The advantages to the belcrank method over Kittleson's approach is
that it
was easy to make it strong. It is also convenient to adjust the
rudder
pedal/rudder/tailwheel ratios easily. It is not as easy to modify
the
lower
rudder bearing to take the 600 or so pounds of load that I wanted it
to
take. The US Air Force physiology handbook says that 150 lbs of load
is
reasonable to generate with your foot. The rudder pedals multiply
that
by 2x
each giving a total of 600 pounds load easily possible. If you can
make
it
safe for that load, Kittleson's method is simpler and is what is
used by
most certified taildraggers.

The problem with the two cables originating at the link without
the
belcrank is that the loads still end up at the rudder bearing,
because
the
tailwheel springs will stretch, thereby transferring the load to the
rudder.
Better to use either Kittleson's approach, or the belcrank approach.

Re hand brakes v. toe brakes, I chose toe brakes because that is
what
I
was used to plus I wanted both hands free for throttle, stick and
reflexer.
I understand that in Europe, hand brakes are much more widespread
than
in
the US. Both clearly work, so use whatever you are comfortable with.
The
important thing is to get the differential braking which is such an
important part of control of any taildragger.

Bob F.
N200QK



I already used a beefed-up lower rudder bearing (I saw a Q with a
broken
original one) and so it is now the same 3/4" phenolic as the
elevator
centre
mounts. Is that beefed up enough do you know?

Thanks for the info.

Chris Rayner (Q-200; painting and decorating it)

PS - to Doug, welcome to the hot seat. You've got your work cut
out
to
better the Richardson team (so thanks to them also), but I'm
certainly
looking forward to good things. Get printing those decals - I expect
to
claim one!





Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






--------------------------------------------------------------------
----
----
--

Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.







Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





----------------------------------------------------------------------
----
----
Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.







Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
--
Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.







Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





--------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.







Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org






----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--

Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.







Quickie Builders Association WEB site
http://www.quickiebuilders.org





------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Q-LIST/

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Q-LIST-unsubscribe@...

c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.