N8WQ engine first start(s)


Jay Scheevel
 

I am pleased to announce that after 33.5 years build time, my baby, N8WQ has took her first breath yesterday and is very healthy!

 

The following 5 minute videos document the event(s). Outside air temp was about 55 deg. F, with a slight breeze into the nose of the plane. The engine is a (obviously much newer) Jabiru 3300A with liquid cooled heads, converted to solid lifters, with Rotec alternator and one electronic ignition and one magneto.

 

First video shows a couple starter cycles, first with ignition off to get oil into the gallery, then to pull some fuel into the manifold, after a couple more turns, it  starts up with the throttle too far open, so it startled me a bit, and I shut it down. After the second start it is clear that the throttle range is set too high overall, as the lowest possible RPM is around 800. (I fix this for the second set of videos, below)

https://youtu.be/SPx0WOU6GMM

 

This video picks up where the first left off in mid-run. The total run time for this first test is about 4+ minutes, and this video shows that after I shut her down, there is some smoke..uh oh!... but it turns out that it was just the exhaust manifold wrap “curing”. A one-time thing, so no problems.

https://youtu.be/64zC3icQAww

 

During the first run, after checking vitals, I ran the mixture through its full range, watched pressures and temps and alternated both ignitions, all good. Oil pressure good, a little over 50 psi. Oil did not rise above 90 degrees F on this test (see second run description below for more on that).  After shut down, I checked for any coolant, oil or fuel leaks and none of those were to be seen. You can see me put my hand on the cylinder head just after the engine is shut down. It was about as warm as hot bath. During this run and the second run, the liquid cooling worked like a charm. CHT’s on all cylinders (under the plug, on the exhaust valve side of the cylinder) averaged around 200 degrees F, even after 10 minutes during the second run. Water temps were running at 145 degrees F and much cooler when I fully opened the exit door on the radiator plenum.

 

Prior to the second run, I had adjusted the throttle range, so minimum is more like 500 RPM. I don’t have the exact number because I have not calibrated the tach (EFIS) yet. May have to take my RPM off of a different source. Will see about this. Right now it comes off of the Hall sensor on the electronic side of the ignition. During this second run I ran up around 1800-1900 for about 6 or 7 minutes. Coolant temp stayed about the same as the first run (200-210 F) and oil temp reached up to a max of about 130 F.

https://youtu.be/W27H6B2tQtE

 

In this second video between 3:30 and 4:00 you can see me cycling the exit door (cowl flap) on the near side. This makes about 20 F difference in water temp, with the high being 145 F.  CHT’s still a little over 200 F.

https://youtu.be/IdeMaqZTSOI

 

Final segment of second run.

https://youtu.be/RGS90Js339s

 

OBSERVATIONS:

I think I have wires reversed on #6 cylinder EGT, as it reads negative to start with and as the others heat up, it gets colder (like arctic cold), then goes off scale. The other 5 EGTs read around 700 F when idling and then at 1800-1900 RPM are in the 1100 F range (vary by about 20 F). 

 

The mixture control definitely affects the EGT, and engine gets a little rougher at full rich, so I know it is working, but it does not shut down the engine at full lean at idle. I can kill the engine by shutting off ignitions, or by moving fuel selector to OFF. I prefer the later, as it clears the engine of fuel. Starting, even hot, seems to be non-event (as long as I don’t leave the throttle wide open!).

 

I ran the engine using all combinations of fuel sourcing, gravity from header, header with boost pump, both tanks with both pumps and main only with main pump. All check out and will run the engine as expected. My fuel flow test using these methods a couple weeks ago, before mounting engine all yielded 200%+ of max possible engine consumption, but nice verify while running he engine. Also, whether fuel pumps were off or on and regardless of tank selection, there were no noticeable effects on the engine RPM richness etc., so the throttle body injector’s regulator seems to be working as advertised.

 

Compression appears to be very good. I will check after a couple more test runs.

 

Belt driven alternator, and internal B&C regulator working very well. Was kicking back about 30 amps after the start. Felt the battery boxes and main power cable after start and during charging, both cool to the touch, so that is good.

 

Will check prop torque again and maybe pull a rocker cover to check lash, then do some more test runs today.  All grins so far.

 

Cheers,

Jay Scheevel, Tri-Q still building

 

 


Mike Dwyer
 

It sounds good and seems to start great.  Good job!  I'll be interested what kind of speeds you get out of the 120(?) hp engine.
Mike Q200 N3QP


On Sun, Apr 15, 2018 at 2:04 PM, 'Jay Scheevel SGT' jay@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
 

I am pleased to announce that after 33.5 years build time, my baby, N8WQ has took her first breath yesterday and is very healthy!

 

The following 5 minute videos document the event(s). Outside air temp was about 55 deg. F, with a slight breeze into the nose of the plane. The engine is a (obviously much newer) Jabiru 3300A with liquid cooled heads, converted to solid lifters, with Rotec alternator and one electronic ignition and one magneto.

 

First video shows a couple starter cycles, first with ignition off to get oil into the gallery, then to pull some fuel into the manifold, after a couple more turns, it  starts up with the throttle too far open, so it startled me a bit, and I shut it down. After the second start it is clear that the throttle range is set too high overall, as the lowest possible RPM is around 800. (I fix this for the second set of videos, below)

https://youtu.be/SPx0WOU6GMM

 

This video picks up where the first left off in mid-run. The total run time for this first test is about 4+ minutes, and this video shows that after I shut her down, there is some smoke..uh oh!... but it turns out that it was just the exhaust manifold wrap “curing”. A one-time thing, so no problems.

https://youtu.be/64zC3icQAww

 

During the first run, after checking vitals, I ran the mixture through its full range, watched pressures and temps and alternated both ignitions, all good. Oil pressure good, a little over 50 psi. Oil did not rise above 90 degrees F on this test (see second run description below for more on that).  After shut down, I checked for any coolant, oil or fuel leaks and none of those were to be seen. You can see me put my hand on the cylinder head just after the engine is shut down. It was about as warm as hot bath. During this run and the second run, the liquid cooling worked like a charm. CHT’s on all cylinders (under the plug, on the exhaust valve side of the cylinder) averaged around 200 degrees F, even after 10 minutes during the second run. Water temps were running at 145 degrees F and much cooler when I fully opened the exit door on the radiator plenum.

 

Prior to the second run, I had adjusted the throttle range, so minimum is more like 500 RPM. I don’t have the exact number because I have not calibrated the tach (EFIS) yet. May have to take my RPM off of a different source. Will see about this. Right now it comes off of the Hall sensor on the electronic side of the ignition. During this second run I ran up around 1800-1900 for about 6 or 7 minutes. Coolant temp stayed about the same as the first run (200-210 F) and oil temp reached up to a max of about 130 F.

https://youtu.be/W27H6B2tQtE

 

In this second video between 3:30 and 4:00 you can see me cycling the exit door (cowl flap) on the near side. This makes about 20 F difference in water temp, with the high being 145 F.  CHT’s still a little over 200 F.

https://youtu.be/IdeMaqZTSOI

 

Final segment of second run.

https://youtu.be/RGS90Js339s

 

OBSERVATIONS:

I think I have wires reversed on #6 cylinder EGT, as it reads negative to start with and as the others heat up, it gets colder (like arctic cold), then goes off scale. The other 5 EGTs read around 700 F when idling and then at 1800-1900 RPM are in the 1100 F range (vary by about 20 F). 

 

The mixture control definitely affects the EGT, and engine gets a little rougher at full rich, so I know it is working, but it does not shut down the engine at full lean at idle. I can kill the engine by shutting off ignitions, or by moving fuel selector to OFF. I prefer the later, as it clears the engine of fuel. Starting, even hot, seems to be non-event (as long as I don’t leave the throttle wide open!).

 

I ran the engine using all combinations of fuel sourcing, gravity from header, header with boost pump, both tanks with both pumps and main only with main pump. All check out and will run the engine as expected. My fuel flow test using these methods a couple weeks ago, before mounting engine all yielded 200%+ of max possible engine consumption, but nice verify while running he engine. Also, whether fuel pumps were off or on and regardless of tank selection, there were no noticeable effects on the engine RPM richness etc., so the throttle body injector’s regulator seems to be working as advertised.

 

Compression appears to be very good. I will check after a couple more test runs.

 

Belt driven alternator, and internal B&C regulator working very well. Was kicking back about 30 amps after the start. Felt the battery boxes and main power cable after start and during charging, both cool to the touch, so that is good.

 

Will check prop torque again and maybe pull a rocker cover to check lash, then do some more test runs today.  All grins so far.

 

Cheers,

Jay Scheevel, Tri-Q still building

 

 



Virus-free. www.avast.com


Jim Patillo
 

Congratulations Jay,

You’ve just turned a major corner. Congratulations on your accomplishment! Many have tried, few have succeeded. Persistence does payoff! Now it starts to become fun.

It will be nice to see how it compares to Paul’s jabiru.

Let er rip!

Jim Patillo
N46JP -Q200


britmcman99
 

I’m thinking with the door off you’ll be your regions one hour or less Amazon delivery. 

Congrats. Really beautiful. 

Phil


On Apr 15, 2018, at 3:49 PM, logistics_engineering@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

Congratulations Jay,

You’ve just turned a major corner. Congratulations on your accomplishment! Many have tried, few have succeeded. Persistence does payoff! Now it starts to become fun.

It will be nice to see how it compares to Paul’s jabiru.

Let er rip!

Jim Patillo
N46JP -Q200


Jay Scheevel
 

Don't tempt me, Phil. Calculations show that I could fly it ( slowly) with the doors off!. I have a buddy with a Stearman on our field and I told him I could fly my open cockpit biplane also��

Cheers,
Jay

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID


"Phil Lankford britmcman@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

I’m thinking with the door off you’ll be your regions one hour or less Amazon delivery. 


Congrats. Really beautiful. 

Phil


On Apr 15, 2018, at 3:49 PM, logistics_engineering@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

Congratulations Jay,

You’ve just turned a major corner. Congratulations on your accomplishment! Many have tried, few have succeeded. Persistence does payoff! Now it starts to become fun.

It will be nice to see how it compares to Paul’s jabiru.

Let er rip!

Jim Patillo
N46JP -Q200


britmcman99
 

Jay. A small plexi air dam around the front of the opening would likely allow you to fly at higher speeds. It looks like the air would cascade or slip stream right on past. Just don’t flick your cigarette ashes out the window. You’re liable to dis-locate your shoulder. 

I am curious on what your angle of incidence is anticipated to be during takeoff based on how your hoop gear and nose-wheel are set up?  Is there a sweat spot or any different than a taildragger?

Regards,
Phil 


On Apr 15, 2018, at 5:39 PM, Jay Scheevel jay@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

Don't tempt me, Phil. Calculations show that I could fly it ( slowly) with the doors off!. I have a buddy with a Stearman on our field and I told him I could fly my open cockpit biplane also��

Cheers,
Jay

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID


"Phil Lankford britmcman@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

I’m thinking with the door off you’ll be your regions one hour or less Amazon delivery. 


Congrats. Really beautiful. 

Phil


On Apr 15, 2018, at 3:49 PM, logistics_engineering@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

Congratulations Jay,

You’ve just turned a major corner. Congratulations on your accomplishment! Many have tried, few have succeeded. Persistence does payoff! Now it starts to become fun.

It will be nice to see how it compares to Paul’s jabiru.

Let er rip!

Jim Patillo
N46JP -Q200


Jay Scheevel
 

need to get to about 7 degrees. Same as the tail dragger. Taxi angle looks like it will be about 3 degrees, so will need 4 degrees of rotation.

Cheers,
Jay

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID


"Phil Lankford britmcman@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

Jay. A small plexi air dam around the front of the opening would likely allow you to fly at higher speeds. It looks like the air would cascade or slip stream right on past. Just don’t flick your cigarette ashes out the window. You’re liable to dis-locate your shoulder. 


I am curious on what your angle of incidence is anticipated to be during takeoff based on how your hoop gear and nose-wheel are set up?  Is there a sweat spot or any different than a taildragger?

Regards,
Phil 


On Apr 15, 2018, at 5:39 PM, Jay Scheevel jay@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

Don't tempt me, Phil. Calculations show that I could fly it ( slowly) with the doors off!. I have a buddy with a Stearman on our field and I told him I could fly my open cockpit biplane also��

Cheers,
Jay

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID


"Phil Lankford britmcman@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

I’m thinking with the door off you’ll be your regions one hour or less Amazon delivery. 


Congrats.. Really beautiful. 

Phil


On Apr 15, 2018, at 3:49 PM, logistics_engineering@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

Congratulations Jay,

You’ve just turned a major corner. Congratulations on your accomplishment! Many have tried, few have succeeded. Persistence does payoff! Now it starts to become fun.

It will be nice to see how it compares to Paul’s jabiru.

Let er rip!

Jim Patillo
N46JP -Q200


sanjay <Sanjay@...>
 

Congrats Jay
Sanjay

-------- Original message --------
From: "'Jay Scheevel SGT' jay@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...>
Date: 4/15/18 2:04 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] N8WQ engine first start(s)

 

I am pleased to announce that after 33.5 years build time, my baby, N8WQ has took her first breath yesterday and is very healthy!

 

The following 5 minute videos document the event(s). Outside air temp was about 55 deg. F, with a slight breeze into the nose of the plane. The engine is a (obviously much newer) Jabiru 3300A with liquid cooled heads, converted to solid lifters, with Rotec alternator and one electronic ignition and one magneto.

 

First video shows a couple starter cycles, first with ignition off to get oil into the gallery, then to pull some fuel into the manifold, after a couple more turns, it  starts up with the throttle too far open, so it startled me a bit, and I shut it down. After the second start it is clear that the throttle range is set too high overall, as the lowest possible RPM is around 800. (I fix this for the second set of videos, below)

https://youtu.be/SPx0WOU6GMM

 

This video picks up where the first left off in mid-run. The total run time for this first test is about 4+ minutes, and this video shows that after I shut her down, there is some smoke..uh oh!... but it turns out that it was just the exhaust manifold wrap “curing”. A one-time thing, so no problems.

https://youtu.be/64zC3icQAww

 

During the first run, after checking vitals, I ran the mixture through its full range, watched pressures and temps and alternated both ignitions, all good. Oil pressure good, a little over 50 psi. Oil did not rise above 90 degrees F on this test (see second run description below for more on that).  After shut down, I checked for any coolant, oil or fuel leaks and none of those were to be seen. You can see me put my hand on the cylinder head just after the engine is shut down. It was about as warm as hot bath. During this run and the second run, the liquid cooling worked like a charm. CHT’s on all cylinders (under the plug, on the exhaust valve side of the cylinder) averaged around 200 degrees F, even after 10 minutes during the second run. Water temps were running at 145 degrees F and much cooler when I fully opened the exit door on the radiator plenum.

 

Prior to the second run, I had adjusted the throttle range, so minimum is more like 500 RPM. I don’t have the exact number because I have not calibrated the tach (EFIS) yet. May have to take my RPM off of a different source. Will see about this. Right now it comes off of the Hall sensor on the electronic side of the ignition. During this second run I ran up around 1800-1900 for about 6 or 7 minutes. Coolant temp stayed about the same as the first run (200-210 F) and oil temp reached up to a max of about 130 F.

https://youtu.be/W27H6B2tQtE

 

In this second video between 3:30 and 4:00 you can see me cycling the exit door (cowl flap) on the near side. This makes about 20 F difference in water temp, with the high being 145 F.  CHT’s still a little over 200 F.

https://youtu.be/IdeMaqZTSOI

 

Final segment of second run.

https://youtu.be/RGS90Js339s

 

OBSERVATIONS:

I think I have wires reversed on #6 cylinder EGT, as it reads negative to start with and as the others heat up, it gets colder (like arctic cold), then goes off scale. The other 5 EGTs read around 700 F when idling and then at 1800-1900 RPM are in the 1100 F range (vary by about 20 F). 

 

The mixture control definitely affects the EGT, and engine gets a little rougher at full rich, so I know it is working, but it does not shut down the engine at full lean at idle. I can kill the engine by shutting off ignitions, or by moving fuel selector to OFF. I prefer the later, as it clears the engine of fuel. Starting, even hot, seems to be non-event (as long as I don’t leave the throttle wide open!).

 

I ran the engine using all combinations of fuel sourcing, gravity from header, header with boost pump, both tanks with both pumps and main only with main pump. All check out and will run the engine as expected. My fuel flow test using these methods a couple weeks ago, before mounting engine all yielded 200%+ of max possible engine consumption, but nice verify while running he engine. Also, whether fuel pumps were off or on and regardless of tank selection, there were no noticeable effects on the engine RPM richness etc., so the throttle body injector’s regulator seems to be working as advertised.

 

Compression appears to be very good. I will check after a couple more test runs.

 

Belt driven alternator, and internal B&C regulator working very well. Was kicking back about 30 amps after the start. Felt the battery boxes and main power cable after start and during charging, both cool to the touch, so that is good.

 

Will check prop torque again and maybe pull a rocker cover to check lash, then do some more test runs today.  All grins so far.

 

Cheers,

Jay Scheevel, Tri-Q still building

 

 


Bruce Crain
 


Jerry Marstall
 

Congratulations!!  Guess your are officially out of the longest time to complete  contest.

On Apr 15, 2018 2:04 PM, "'Jay Scheevel SGT' jay@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
 

I am pleased to announce that after 33.5 years build time, my baby, N8WQ has took her first breath yesterday and is very healthy!

 

The following 5 minute videos document the event(s). Outside air temp was about 55 deg. F, with a slight breeze into the nose of the plane. The engine is a (obviously much newer) Jabiru 3300A with liquid cooled heads, converted to solid lifters, with Rotec alternator and one electronic ignition and one magneto.

 

First video shows a couple starter cycles, first with ignition off to get oil into the gallery, then to pull some fuel into the manifold, after a couple more turns, it  starts up with the throttle too far open, so it startled me a bit, and I shut it down. After the second start it is clear that the throttle range is set too high overall, as the lowest possible RPM is around 800. (I fix this for the second set of videos, below)

https://youtu.be/SPx0WOU6GMM

 

This video picks up where the first left off in mid-run. The total run time for this first test is about 4+ minutes, and this video shows that after I shut her down, there is some smoke..uh oh!... but it turns out that it was just the exhaust manifold wrap “curing”. A one-time thing, so no problems.

https://youtu.be/64zC3icQAww

 

During the first run, after checking vitals, I ran the mixture through its full range, watched pressures and temps and alternated both ignitions, all good. Oil pressure good, a little over 50 psi. Oil did not rise above 90 degrees F on this test (see second run description below for more on that).  After shut down, I checked for any coolant, oil or fuel leaks and none of those were to be seen. You can see me put my hand on the cylinder head just after the engine is shut down. It was about as warm as hot bath. During this run and the second run, the liquid cooling worked like a charm. CHT’s on all cylinders (under the plug, on the exhaust valve side of the cylinder) averaged around 200 degrees F, even after 10 minutes during the second run. Water temps were running at 145 degrees F and much cooler when I fully opened the exit door on the radiator plenum.

 

Prior to the second run, I had adjusted the throttle range, so minimum is more like 500 RPM. I don’t have the exact number because I have not calibrated the tach (EFIS) yet. May have to take my RPM off of a different source. Will see about this. Right now it comes off of the Hall sensor on the electronic side of the ignition. During this second run I ran up around 1800-1900 for about 6 or 7 minutes. Coolant temp stayed about the same as the first run (200-210 F) and oil temp reached up to a max of about 130 F.

https://youtu.be/W27H6B2tQtE

 

In this second video between 3:30 and 4:00 you can see me cycling the exit door (cowl flap) on the near side. This makes about 20 F difference in water temp, with the high being 145 F.  CHT’s still a little over 200 F.

https://youtu.be/IdeMaqZTSOI

 

Final segment of second run.

https://youtu.be/RGS90Js339s

 

OBSERVATIONS:

I think I have wires reversed on #6 cylinder EGT, as it reads negative to start with and as the others heat up, it gets colder (like arctic cold), then goes off scale. The other 5 EGTs read around 700 F when idling and then at 1800-1900 RPM are in the 1100 F range (vary by about 20 F). 

 

The mixture control definitely affects the EGT, and engine gets a little rougher at full rich, so I know it is working, but it does not shut down the engine at full lean at idle. I can kill the engine by shutting off ignitions, or by moving fuel selector to OFF. I prefer the later, as it clears the engine of fuel. Starting, even hot, seems to be non-event (as long as I don’t leave the throttle wide open!).

 

I ran the engine using all combinations of fuel sourcing, gravity from header, header with boost pump, both tanks with both pumps and main only with main pump. All check out and will run the engine as expected. My fuel flow test using these methods a couple weeks ago, before mounting engine all yielded 200%+ of max possible engine consumption, but nice verify while running he engine. Also, whether fuel pumps were off or on and regardless of tank selection, there were no noticeable effects on the engine RPM richness etc., so the throttle body injector’s regulator seems to be working as advertised.

 

Compression appears to be very good. I will check after a couple more test runs.

 

Belt driven alternator, and internal B&C regulator working very well. Was kicking back about 30 amps after the start. Felt the battery boxes and main power cable after start and during charging, both cool to the touch, so that is good.

 

Will check prop torque again and maybe pull a rocker cover to check lash, then do some more test runs today.  All grins so far.

 

Cheers,

Jay Scheevel, Tri-Q still building

 

 


Jay Scheevel
 

Thanks Jerry,

 

I guess I will have to accept defeat gracefully, but I gave it the old college try!

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2018 8:23 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] N8WQ engine first start(s)

 

 

Congratulations!!  Guess your are officially out of the longest time to complete  contest.

 

On Apr 15, 2018 2:04 PM, "'Jay Scheevel SGT' jay@... [Q-LIST]" <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

I am pleased to announce that after 33.5 years build time, my baby, N8WQ has took her first breath yesterday and is very healthy!

 

The following 5 minute videos document the event(s). Outside air temp was about 55 deg. F, with a slight breeze into the nose of the plane. The engine is a (obviously much newer) Jabiru 3300A with liquid cooled heads, converted to solid lifters, with Rotec alternator and one electronic ignition and one magneto.

 

First video shows a couple starter cycles, first with ignition off to get oil into the gallery, then to pull some fuel into the manifold, after a couple more turns, it  starts up with the throttle too far open, so it startled me a bit, and I shut it down. After the second start it is clear that the throttle range is set too high overall, as the lowest possible RPM is around 800. (I fix this for the second set of videos, below)

https://youtu.be/SPx0WOU6GMM

 

This video picks up where the first left off in mid-run. The total run time for this first test is about 4+ minutes, and this video shows that after I shut her down, there is some smoke..uh oh!... but it turns out that it was just the exhaust manifold wrap “curing”. A one-time thing, so no problems.

https://youtu.be/64zC3icQAww

 

During the first run, after checking vitals, I ran the mixture through its full range, watched pressures and temps and alternated both ignitions, all good. Oil pressure good, a little over 50 psi. Oil did not rise above 90 degrees F on this test (see second run description below for more on that).  After shut down, I checked for any coolant, oil or fuel leaks and none of those were to be seen. You can see me put my hand on the cylinder head just after the engine is shut down. It was about as warm as hot bath. During this run and the second run, the liquid cooling worked like a charm. CHT’s on all cylinders (under the plug, on the exhaust valve side of the cylinder) averaged around 200 degrees F, even after 10 minutes during the second run. Water temps were running at 145 degrees F and much cooler when I fully opened the exit door on the radiator plenum.

 

Prior to the second run, I had adjusted the throttle range, so minimum is more like 500 RPM. I don’t have the exact number because I have not calibrated the tach (EFIS) yet. May have to take my RPM off of a different source. Will see about this. Right now it comes off of the Hall sensor on the electronic side of the ignition. During this second run I ran up around 1800-1900 for about 6 or 7 minutes. Coolant temp stayed about the same as the first run (200-210 F) and oil temp reached up to a max of about 130 F.

https://youtu.be/W27H6B2tQtE

 

In this second video between 3:30 and 4:00 you can see me cycling the exit door (cowl flap) on the near side. This makes about 20 F difference in water temp, with the high being 145 F.  CHT’s still a little over 200 F.

https://youtu.be/IdeMaqZTSOI

 

Final segment of second run.

https://youtu.be/RGS90Js339s

 

OBSERVATIONS:

I think I have wires reversed on #6 cylinder EGT, as it reads negative to start with and as the others heat up, it gets colder (like arctic cold), then goes off scale. The other 5 EGTs read around 700 F when idling and then at 1800-1900 RPM are in the 1100 F range (vary by about 20 F). 

 

The mixture control definitely affects the EGT, and engine gets a little rougher at full rich, so I know it is working, but it does not shut down the engine at full lean at idle. I can kill the engine by shutting off ignitions, or by moving fuel selector to OFF. I prefer the later, as it clears the engine of fuel. Starting, even hot, seems to be non-event (as long as I don’t leave the throttle wide open!).

 

I ran the engine using all combinations of fuel sourcing, gravity from header, header with boost pump, both tanks with both pumps and main only with main pump. All check out and will run the engine as expected. My fuel flow test using these methods a couple weeks ago, before mounting engine all yielded 200%+ of max possible engine consumption, but nice verify while running he engine. Also, whether fuel pumps were off or on and regardless of tank selection, there were no noticeable effects on the engine RPM richness etc., so the throttle body injector’s regulator seems to be working as advertised.

 

Compression appears to be very good. I will check after a couple more test runs.

 

Belt driven alternator, and internal B&C regulator working very well. Was kicking back about 30 amps after the start. Felt the battery boxes and main power cable after start and during charging, both cool to the touch, so that is good.

 

Will check prop torque again and maybe pull a rocker cover to check lash, then do some more test runs today.  All grins so far.

 

Cheers,

Jay Scheevel, Tri-Q still building

 

 


Jay Scheevel
 

Thank Jim,

 

You all have been a great help and a great inspiration. Hope to be joining the “flying club” soon.

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2018 4:50 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: N8WQ engine first start(s)

 

 

Congratulations Jay,

You’ve just turned a major corner. Congratulations on your accomplishment! Many have tried, few have succeeded. Persistence does payoff! Now it starts to become fun.

It will be nice to see how it compares to Paul’s jabiru.

Let er rip!

Jim Patillo
N46JP -Q200


Sam Hoskins
 

Congratulations Jay! What was once a bunch of hair-brained ideas, money in the bank, bottles of epoxy, rolls of glass and hundreds of other spare parts has now become a fire breathing thing.  What a great feeling that first start is.  Enjoy the glow.

Sam


On Sun, Apr 15, 2018 at 1:04 PM 'Jay Scheevel SGT' jay@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:
 

I am pleased to announce that after 33.5 years build time, my baby, N8WQ has took her first breath yesterday and is very healthy!

 

The following 5 minute videos document the event(s). Outside air temp was about 55 deg. F, with a slight breeze into the nose of the plane. The engine is a (obviously much newer) Jabiru 3300A with liquid cooled heads, converted to solid lifters, with Rotec alternator and one electronic ignition and one magneto.

 

First video shows a couple starter cycles, first with ignition off to get oil into the gallery, then to pull some fuel into the manifold, after a couple more turns, it  starts up with the throttle too far open, so it startled me a bit, and I shut it down. After the second start it is clear that the throttle range is set too high overall, as the lowest possible RPM is around 800. (I fix this for the second set of videos, below)

https://youtu.be/SPx0WOU6GMM

 

This video picks up where the first left off in mid-run. The total run time for this first test is about 4+ minutes, and this video shows that after I shut her down, there is some smoke..uh oh!... but it turns out that it was just the exhaust manifold wrap “curing”. A one-time thing, so no problems.

https://youtu.be/64zC3icQAww

 

During the first run, after checking vitals, I ran the mixture through its full range, watched pressures and temps and alternated both ignitions, all good. Oil pressure good, a little over 50 psi. Oil did not rise above 90 degrees F on this test (see second run description below for more on that).  After shut down, I checked for any coolant, oil or fuel leaks and none of those were to be seen. You can see me put my hand on the cylinder head just after the engine is shut down. It was about as warm as hot bath. During this run and the second run, the liquid cooling worked like a charm. CHT’s on all cylinders (under the plug, on the exhaust valve side of the cylinder) averaged around 200 degrees F, even after 10 minutes during the second run. Water temps were running at 145 degrees F and much cooler when I fully opened the exit door on the radiator plenum.

 

Prior to the second run, I had adjusted the throttle range, so minimum is more like 500 RPM. I don’t have the exact number because I have not calibrated the tach (EFIS) yet. May have to take my RPM off of a different source. Will see about this. Right now it comes off of the Hall sensor on the electronic side of the ignition. During this second run I ran up around 1800-1900 for about 6 or 7 minutes. Coolant temp stayed about the same as the first run (200-210 F) and oil temp reached up to a max of about 130 F.

https://youtu.be/W27H6B2tQtE

 

In this second video between 3:30 and 4:00 you can see me cycling the exit door (cowl flap) on the near side. This makes about 20 F difference in water temp, with the high being 145 F.  CHT’s still a little over 200 F.

https://youtu.be/IdeMaqZTSOI

 

Final segment of second run.

https://youtu.be/RGS90Js339s

 

OBSERVATIONS:

I think I have wires reversed on #6 cylinder EGT, as it reads negative to start with and as the others heat up, it gets colder (like arctic cold), then goes off scale. The other 5 EGTs read around 700 F when idling and then at 1800-1900 RPM are in the 1100 F range (vary by about 20 F). 

 

The mixture control definitely affects the EGT, and engine gets a little rougher at full rich, so I know it is working, but it does not shut down the engine at full lean at idle. I can kill the engine by shutting off ignitions, or by moving fuel selector to OFF. I prefer the later, as it clears the engine of fuel. Starting, even hot, seems to be non-event (as long as I don’t leave the throttle wide open!).

 

I ran the engine using all combinations of fuel sourcing, gravity from header, header with boost pump, both tanks with both pumps and main only with main pump. All check out and will run the engine as expected. My fuel flow test using these methods a couple weeks ago, before mounting engine all yielded 200%+ of max possible engine consumption, but nice verify while running he engine. Also, whether fuel pumps were off or on and regardless of tank selection, there were no noticeable effects on the engine RPM richness etc., so the throttle body injector’s regulator seems to be working as advertised.

 

Compression appears to be very good. I will check after a couple more test runs.

 

Belt driven alternator, and internal B&C regulator working very well. Was kicking back about 30 amps after the start. Felt the battery boxes and main power cable after start and during charging, both cool to the touch, so that is good.

 

Will check prop torque again and maybe pull a rocker cover to check lash, then do some more test runs today.  All grins so far.

 

Cheers,

Jay Scheevel, Tri-Q still building

 

 


Jay Scheevel
 

Many thanks to you Sam!  A little piece of yours is on this fire-breather. That little carb heat muff that you sold me at “Sam’s garage sale” a number of years ago at FOD, was just perfect and both fits and works great. One man’s trash is another’s treasure, for sure. Thanks!

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2018 11:29 AM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: Re: [Q-LIST] N8WQ engine first start(s)

 

 

Congratulations Jay! What was once a bunch of hair-brained ideas, money in the bank, bottles of epoxy, rolls of glass and hundreds of other spare parts has now become a fire breathing thing.  What a great feeling that first start is.  Enjoy the glow.

 

Sam

On Sun, Apr 15, 2018 at 1:04 PM 'Jay Scheevel SGT' jay@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

I am pleased to announce that after 33.5 years build time, my baby, N8WQ has took her first breath yesterday and is very healthy!

 

The following 5 minute videos document the event(s). Outside air temp was about 55 deg. F, with a slight breeze into the nose of the plane. The engine is a (obviously much newer) Jabiru 3300A with liquid cooled heads, converted to solid lifters, with Rotec alternator and one electronic ignition and one magneto.

 

First video shows a couple starter cycles, first with ignition off to get oil into the gallery, then to pull some fuel into the manifold, after a couple more turns, it  starts up with the throttle too far open, so it startled me a bit, and I shut it down. After the second start it is clear that the throttle range is set too high overall, as the lowest possible RPM is around 800. (I fix this for the second set of videos, below)

https://youtu.be/SPx0WOU6GMM

 

This video picks up where the first left off in mid-run. The total run time for this first test is about 4+ minutes, and this video shows that after I shut her down, there is some smoke..uh oh!... but it turns out that it was just the exhaust manifold wrap “curing”. A one-time thing, so no problems.

https://youtu.be/64zC3icQAww

 

During the first run, after checking vitals, I ran the mixture through its full range, watched pressures and temps and alternated both ignitions, all good. Oil pressure good, a little over 50 psi. Oil did not rise above 90 degrees F on this test (see second run description below for more on that).  After shut down, I checked for any coolant, oil or fuel leaks and none of those were to be seen. You can see me put my hand on the cylinder head just after the engine is shut down. It was about as warm as hot bath. During this run and the second run, the liquid cooling worked like a charm. CHT’s on all cylinders (under the plug, on the exhaust valve side of the cylinder) averaged around 200 degrees F, even after 10 minutes during the second run. Water temps were running at 145 degrees F and much cooler when I fully opened the exit door on the radiator plenum.

 

Prior to the second run, I had adjusted the throttle range, so minimum is more like 500 RPM. I don’t have the exact number because I have not calibrated the tach (EFIS) yet. May have to take my RPM off of a different source. Will see about this. Right now it comes off of the Hall sensor on the electronic side of the ignition. During this second run I ran up around 1800-1900 for about 6 or 7 minutes. Coolant temp stayed about the same as the first run (200-210 F) and oil temp reached up to a max of about 130 F.

https://youtu.be/W27H6B2tQtE

 

In this second video between 3:30 and 4:00 you can see me cycling the exit door (cowl flap) on the near side. This makes about 20 F difference in water temp, with the high being 145 F.  CHT’s still a little over 200 F.

https://youtu.be/IdeMaqZTSOI

 

Final segment of second run.

https://youtu.be/RGS90Js339s

 

OBSERVATIONS:

I think I have wires reversed on #6 cylinder EGT, as it reads negative to start with and as the others heat up, it gets colder (like arctic cold), then goes off scale. The other 5 EGTs read around 700 F when idling and then at 1800-1900 RPM are in the 1100 F range (vary by about 20 F). 

 

The mixture control definitely affects the EGT, and engine gets a little rougher at full rich, so I know it is working, but it does not shut down the engine at full lean at idle. I can kill the engine by shutting off ignitions, or by moving fuel selector to OFF. I prefer the later, as it clears the engine of fuel. Starting, even hot, seems to be non-event (as long as I don’t leave the throttle wide open!).

 

I ran the engine using all combinations of fuel sourcing, gravity from header, header with boost pump, both tanks with both pumps and main only with main pump. All check out and will run the engine as expected. My fuel flow test using these methods a couple weeks ago, before mounting engine all yielded 200%+ of max possible engine consumption, but nice verify while running he engine. Also, whether fuel pumps were off or on and regardless of tank selection, there were no noticeable effects on the engine RPM richness etc., so the throttle body injector’s regulator seems to be working as advertised.

 

Compression appears to be very good. I will check after a couple more test runs.

 

Belt driven alternator, and internal B&C regulator working very well. Was kicking back about 30 amps after the start. Felt the battery boxes and main power cable after start and during charging, both cool to the touch, so that is good.

 

Will check prop torque again and maybe pull a rocker cover to check lash, then do some more test runs today.  All grins so far.

 

Cheers,

Jay Scheevel, Tri-Q still building

 

 


Paul Spackman
 

Nice Jay!  I will look for a hole in the weather and see if I can make it down that way soon.


Jay Scheevel
 

Thanks Paul,

 

Still winter in Wyoming. I will give you a call. Kevin went ahead and scheduled his spring fling the same weekend as our fly-in at Mack. I will be going to Decorah, hoping the weather is conducive to getting some familiarization time in several Q’s. Kevin put Lynn French in charge of the weather this year. I think that was an excellent choice given the failure of other “weather chairmen” in the past.  I still think you and your Avid would enjoy the fly-in at Mack, and one of my buddies can let you in to crawl through my plane and make notes of what still needs doing while you are here.

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: Q-LIST@...
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2018 10:26 PM
To: Q-LIST@...
Subject: [Q-LIST] Re: N8WQ engine first start(s)

 

 

Nice Jay!  I will look for a hole in the weather and see if I can make it down that way soon.


quickieaircraft
 

Spectacular news, Jay! 

With your perennial contributions to other builds, I suspect you have partial completion in several other aircraft over your build time, the sum of which may near an aircraft completion.  With that said, I'm ecstatic to see your aircraft has come alive!

I hope to see you again at Spring Fling in a month!

Best,
IF



Kevin Boddicker
 

Congrats Jay!
I don’t know why in the hell you didn’t  do the first 55% as fast as you have finished the last 55%. You’d have a 1000 hours on it by now! :>)))
See you in DEH!
Kevin

On Apr 15, 2018, at 1:04 PM, 'Jay Scheevel SGT' jay@... [Q-LIST] <Q-LIST@...> wrote:

 

I am pleased to announce that after 33.5 years build time, my baby, N8WQ has took her first breath yesterday and is very healthy!
 
The following 5 minute videos document the event(s). Outside air temp was about 55 deg. F, with a slight breeze into the nose of the plane. The engine is a (obviously much newer) Jabiru 3300A with liquid cooled heads, converted to solid lifters, with Rotec alternator and one electronic ignition and one magneto.
 
First video shows a couple starter cycles, first with ignition off to get oil into the gallery, then to pull some fuel into the manifold, after a couple more turns, it  starts up with the throttle too far open, so it startled me a bit, and I shut it down. After the second start it is clear that the throttle range is set too high overall, as the lowest possible RPM is around 800. (I fix this for the second set of videos, below)
 
This video picks up where the first left off in mid-run. The total run time for this first test is about 4+ minutes, and this video shows that after I shut her down, there is some smoke..uh oh!... but it turns out that it was just the exhaust manifold wrap “curing”. A one-time thing, so no problems.
 
During the first run, after checking vitals, I ran the mixture through its full range, watched pressures and temps and alternated both ignitions, all good. Oil pressure good, a little over 50 psi. Oil did not rise above 90 degrees F on this test (see second run description below for more on that).  After shut down, I checked for any coolant, oil or fuel leaks and none of those were to be seen. You can see me put my hand on the cylinder head just after the engine is shut down. It was about as warm as hot bath. During this run and the second run, the liquid cooling worked like a charm. CHT’s on all cylinders (under the plug, on the exhaust valve side of the cylinder) averaged around 200 degrees F, even after 10 minutes during the second run. Water temps were running at 145 degrees F and much cooler when I fully opened the exit door on the radiator plenum.
 
Prior to the second run, I had adjusted the throttle range, so minimum is more like 500 RPM. I don’t have the exact number because I have not calibrated the tach (EFIS) yet. May have to take my RPM off of a different source. Will see about this. Right now it comes off of the Hall sensor on the electronic side of the ignition. During this second run I ran up around 1800-1900 for about 6 or 7 minutes. Coolant temp stayed about the same as the first run (200-210 F) and oil temp reached up to a max of about 130 F.
 
In this second video between 3:30 and 4:00 you can see me cycling the exit door (cowl flap) on the near side. This makes about 20 F difference in water temp, with the high being 145 F.  CHT’s still a little over 200 F.
 
Final segment of second run.
 
OBSERVATIONS:
I think I have wires reversed on #6 cylinder EGT, as it reads negative to start with and as the others heat up, it gets colder (like arctic cold), then goes off scale. The other 5 EGTs read around 700 F when idling and then at 1800-1900 RPM are in the 1100 F range (vary by about 20 F). 
 
The mixture control definitely affects the EGT, and engine gets a little rougher at full rich, so I know it is working, but it does not shut down the engine at full lean at idle. I can kill the engine by shutting off ignitions, or by moving fuel selector to OFF. I prefer the later, as it clears the engine of fuel. Starting, even hot, seems to be non-event (as long as I don’t leave the throttle wide open!).
 
I ran the engine using all combinations of fuel sourcing, gravity from header, header with boost pump, both tanks with both pumps and main only with main pump. All check out and will run the engine as expected. My fuel flow test using these methods a couple weeks ago, before mounting engine all yielded 200%+ of max possible engine consumption, but nice verify while running he engine. Also, whether fuel pumps were off or on and regardless of tank selection, there were no noticeable effects on the engine RPM richness etc., so the throttle body injector’s regulator seems to be working as advertised.
 
Compression appears to be very good. I will check after a couple more test runs.
 
Belt driven alternator, and internal B&C regulator working very well. Was kicking back about 30 amps after the start. Felt the battery boxes and main power cable after start and during charging, both cool to the touch, so that is good.
 
Will check prop torque again and maybe pull a rocker cover to check lash, then do some more test runs today.  All grins so far.
 
Cheers,
Jay Scheevel, Tri-Q still building