
John Hoxie
I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands?
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One Sky Dog
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On Jan 2, 2021, at 7:31 PM, John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns@...> wrote:
I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands?
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The easiest is if you can pull back the center far enough then cut the armor with a cutoff wheel RICK Hole
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The corner of a file. I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands?
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Wrap it with masking tape. Use a die grinder with cutting blade. You'll use the die grinder for lots of things. Fly safe. Mike
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I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands?
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Jay Scheevel
From the answers I see popping up, I think there is some uncertainty about which type of cable you are asking about. Is it multi-strand braided stainless control cable, or is it a center wire push-pull cable with a spiral wound sheath? Cheers, Jay
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From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of John Hoxie via groups.io Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2021 7:31 PM To: Q-list IO <main@q-list.groups.io> Subject: [Q-List] Cutting control cable I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands?
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britmcman99
If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables. Phil
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On Jan 3, 2021, at 4:54 AM, Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:
Wrap it with masking tape. Use a die grinder with cutting blade. You'll use the die grinder for lots of things. Fly safe. Mike I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands?
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John Hoxie
It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years.
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On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io <britmcman@...> wrote: If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables. Phil On Jan 3, 2021, at 4:54 AM, Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:
Wrap it with masking tape. Use a die grinder with cutting blade. You'll use the die grinder for lots of things. Fly safe. Mike I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands?
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One Sky Dog
With all the analysis and getting out the chainsaw equivalent die grinder and pumping up the compressor.
As I used to tell my students power tools are not always faster or better.
With the cable in the spiral determine length. Remove plastic coating if present. With pliers kink the spiral to open up a coil where you want to cut it. File diagonally with the corner of a file to cut half way thru then use pliers to bend back and forth to break at the file cut. Controlled operation no chance of damage to inner cable no slip of the die grinder.
You are the mechanic in charge, 40 years of manufacturing and maintenance. Cut many cables.
One Sky Dog
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On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:39 PM, John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns@...> wrote:
It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years. On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io <britmcman@...> wrote: If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables. Phil On Jan 3, 2021, at 4:54 AM, Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:
Wrap it with masking tape. Use a die grinder with cutting blade. You'll use the die grinder for lots of things. Fly safe. Mike I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands?
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Jay Scheevel
Sounds like the way to go, John. I would take Charlie’s advice. For those who don’t know Charlie is One Sky Dog. I hope I haven’t blown your “witness protection program” cover, Charlie! Cheers, Jay
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From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of One Sky Dog via groups.io Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 9:29 AM To: main@q-list.groups.io Subject: Re: [Q-List] Cutting control cable With all the analysis and getting out the chainsaw equivalent die grinder and pumping up the compressor. As I used to tell my students power tools are not always faster or better. With the cable in the spiral determine length. Remove plastic coating if present. With pliers kink the spiral to open up a coil where you want to cut it. File diagonally with the corner of a file to cut half way thru then use pliers to bend back and forth to break at the file cut. Controlled operation no chance of damage to inner cable no slip of the die grinder. You are the mechanic in charge, 40 years of manufacturing and maintenance. Cut many cables.
On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:39 PM, John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns@...> wrote:
It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years. On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables. Phil Wrap it with masking tape. Use a die grinder with cutting blade. You'll use the die grinder for lots of things. I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands?
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One Sky Dog
Jay,
I may have already been outed.
No tandem wing flying for me but I have been trading glass for air. I did a Cherokee nose bowl repair. Replaced the factory crappy sandwich stiffeners. He has taken me flying twice and let’s me fly if I want. Did my first right seat take off and landing in a Cherokee 140 last week. We are right in the middle of flying season, cool air, no snow, clear skies, 67 F today. We also landed on the dry lake bed near Wilson Az. and another dirt strip 2500 ft 4200 MSL.
The Oklahoma oil line problem on the Tri-Pacer has resulted in me making a precautionary landing on the way home from Ogden in September. The #2 rod bearing has failed. I do not know the crank condition. Looking at repair options now plane is at Benson hangar.
King of broken airplanes,
Charlie a.k.a. One Sky Dog
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On Jan 4, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:
Sounds like the way to go, John. I would take Charlie’s advice. For those who don’t know Charlie is One Sky Dog. I hope I haven’t blown your “witness protection program” cover, Charlie! Cheers, Jay From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of One Sky Dog via groups.io Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 9:29 AM To: main@q-list.groups.io Subject: Re: [Q-List] Cutting control cable With all the analysis and getting out the chainsaw equivalent die grinder and pumping up the compressor. As I used to tell my students power tools are not always faster or better. With the cable in the spiral determine length. Remove plastic coating if present. With pliers kink the spiral to open up a coil where you want to cut it. File diagonally with the corner of a file to cut half way thru then use pliers to bend back and forth to break at the file cut. Controlled operation no chance of damage to inner cable no slip of the die grinder. You are the mechanic in charge, 40 years of manufacturing and maintenance. Cut many cables.
On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:39 PM, John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns@...> wrote:
It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years. On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables. Phil Wrap it with masking tape. Use a die grinder with cutting blade. You'll use the die grinder for lots of things. I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands?
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Jay Scheevel
Sorry to hear about the Tri-Pacer, Charlie. That is disappointing when you have to get into the engine for repairs. Glad it didn’t give up on you in flight. How was the progress on the D-fly this year? Got any update photos for the group here? Cheers, Jay
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From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of One Sky Dog via groups.io Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 10:08 AM To: main@q-list.groups.io Subject: Re: [Q-List] Cutting control cable Jay, I may have already been outed. No tandem wing flying for me but I have been trading glass for air. I did a Cherokee nose bowl repair. Replaced the factory crappy sandwich stiffeners. He has taken me flying twice and let’s me fly if I want. Did my first right seat take off and landing in a Cherokee 140 last week. We are right in the middle of flying season, cool air, no snow, clear skies, 67 F today. We also landed on the dry lake bed near Wilson Az. and another dirt strip 2500 ft 4200 MSL. The Oklahoma oil line problem on the Tri-Pacer has resulted in me making a precautionary landing on the way home from Ogden in September. The #2 rod bearing has failed. I do not know the crank condition. Looking at repair options now plane is at Benson hangar. King of broken airplanes, Charlie a.k.a. One Sky Dog
On Jan 4, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:
Sounds like the way to go, John. I would take Charlie’s advice. For those who don’t know Charlie is One Sky Dog. I hope I haven’t blown your “witness protection program” cover, Charlie! Cheers, Jay With all the analysis and getting out the chainsaw equivalent die grinder and pumping up the compressor. As I used to tell my students power tools are not always faster or better. With the cable in the spiral determine length. Remove plastic coating if present. With pliers kink the spiral to open up a coil where you want to cut it. File diagonally with the corner of a file to cut half way thru then use pliers to bend back and forth to break at the file cut. Controlled operation no chance of damage to inner cable no slip of the die grinder. You are the mechanic in charge, 40 years of manufacturing and maintenance. Cut many cables.
On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:39 PM, John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns@...> wrote:
It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years. On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables. Phil Wrap it with masking tape. Use a die grinder with cutting blade. You'll use the die grinder for lots of things. I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands?
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One Sky Dog
Jay,
Here are a few.
After a bad day of flying!
 Replacement canard and gear and engine on its feet.  Reworked cowl to make space for MS carb. To replace vapor locking TBI carb.
So I still have a problem with right side elevator torque tube alignment with the elevator. I have to drop the canard and cut out the bearing blocks and redo them. Wiring changes, finish rebuilding elevator fairings, engine control hookups and a bunch of other little things. Then start the test flights again. Oh! wheel pants Need to be completed.
I will have to bring my 20 ft barriers to put around it as it ain’t no Lindy nearing 900 hours and 30+ years, 4 engines, 3 canards, 2 owners. I can only work on it after the snow melts and the temperatures in Ogden are habitable for camping. I hope next summer will be successful and I can show up in a proper airplane at the FOD.
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On Jan 4, 2021, at 10:53 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:
Sorry to hear about the Tri-Pacer, Charlie. That is disappointing when you have to get into the engine for repairs. Glad it didn’t give up on you in flight. How was the progress on the D-fly this year? Got any update photos for the group here? Cheers, Jay From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of One Sky Dog via groups.io Sent: Monday, January 04, 2021 10:08 AM To: main@q-list.groups.io Subject: Re: [Q-List] Cutting control cable Jay, I may have already been outed. No tandem wing flying for me but I have been trading glass for air. I did a Cherokee nose bowl repair. Replaced the factory crappy sandwich stiffeners. He has taken me flying twice and let’s me fly if I want. Did my first right seat take off and landing in a Cherokee 140 last week. We are right in the middle of flying season, cool air, no snow, clear skies, 67 F today. We also landed on the dry lake bed near Wilson Az. and another dirt strip 2500 ft 4200 MSL. The Oklahoma oil line problem on the Tri-Pacer has resulted in me making a precautionary landing on the way home from Ogden in September. The #2 rod bearing has failed. I do not know the crank condition. Looking at repair options now plane is at Benson hangar. King of broken airplanes, Charlie a.k.a. One Sky Dog
On Jan 4, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:
Sounds like the way to go, John. I would take Charlie’s advice. For those who don’t know Charlie is One Sky Dog. I hope I haven’t blown your “witness protection program” cover, Charlie! Cheers, Jay With all the analysis and getting out the chainsaw equivalent die grinder and pumping up the compressor. As I used to tell my students power tools are not always faster or better. With the cable in the spiral determine length. Remove plastic coating if present. With pliers kink the spiral to open up a coil where you want to cut it. File diagonally with the corner of a file to cut half way thru then use pliers to bend back and forth to break at the file cut. Controlled operation no chance of damage to inner cable no slip of the die grinder. You are the mechanic in charge, 40 years of manufacturing and maintenance. Cut many cables.
On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:39 PM, John Hoxie via groups.io <hoxdesigns@...> wrote:
It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years. On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables. Phil Wrap it with masking tape. Use a die grinder with cutting blade. You'll use the die grinder for lots of things. I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands?
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The SKY King of broken planes.
: >))))
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Jay,
I may have already been outed.
No tandem wing flying for me but I have been trading glass for air. I did a Cherokee nose bowl repair. Replaced the factory crappy sandwich stiffeners. He has taken me flying twice and let’s me fly if I want. Did my first right seat take off and landing in a Cherokee 140 last week. We are right in the middle of flying season, cool air, no snow, clear skies, 67 F today. We also landed on the dry lake bed near Wilson Az. and another dirt strip 2500 ft 4200 MSL.
The Oklahoma oil line problem on the Tri-Pacer has resulted in me making a precautionary landing on the way home from Ogden in September. The #2 rod bearing has failed. I do not know the crank condition. Looking at repair options now plane is at Benson hangar.
King of broken airplanes,
Charlie a.k.a. One Sky Dog On Jan 4, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:
Sounds like the way to go, John. I would take Charlie’s advice. For those who don’t know Charlie is One Sky Dog. I hope I haven’t blown your “witness protection program” cover, Charlie! Cheers, Jay With all the analysis and getting out the chainsaw equivalent die grinder and pumping up the compressor. As I used to tell my students power tools are not always faster or better. With the cable in the spiral determine length. Remove plastic coating if present. With pliers kink the spiral to open up a coil where you want to cut it. File diagonally with the corner of a file to cut half way thru then use pliers to bend back and forth to break at the file cut. Controlled operation no chance of damage to inner cable no slip of the die grinder. You are the mechanic in charge, 40 years of manufacturing and maintenance. Cut many cables. It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years. On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables. Phil Wrap it with masking tape. Use a die grinder with cutting blade. You'll use the die grinder for lots of things. I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands?
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John Hoxie
Phil & others, Thanx for everyone's input. I was able to withdraw the inner cable. I sucked some teflon WD-40 through with the shop vac. I then used a flat file diagonally and flat filed to finish. I then reinserted the inner cable. My ultralight throttle quadrant is back together now.
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On Mon, Jan 4, 2021 at 5:34 PM, Kevin Boddicker <trumanst@...> wrote: The SKY King of broken planes.
: >))))
Jay,
I may have already been outed.
No tandem wing flying for me but I have been trading glass for air. I did a Cherokee nose bowl repair. Replaced the factory crappy sandwich stiffeners. He has taken me flying twice and let’s me fly if I want. Did my first right seat take off and landing in a Cherokee 140 last week. We are right in the middle of flying season, cool air, no snow, clear skies, 67 F today. We also landed on the dry lake bed near Wilson Az. and another dirt strip 2500 ft 4200 MSL.
The Oklahoma oil line problem on the Tri-Pacer has resulted in me making a precautionary landing on the way home from Ogden in September. The #2 rod bearing has failed. I do not know the crank condition. Looking at repair options now plane is at Benson hangar.
King of broken airplanes,
Charlie a.k.a. One Sky Dog On Jan 4, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:
Sounds like the way to go, John. I would take Charlie’s advice. For those who don’t know Charlie is One Sky Dog. I hope I haven’t blown your “witness protection program” cover, Charlie! Cheers, Jay With all the analysis and getting out the chainsaw equivalent die grinder and pumping up the compressor. As I used to tell my students power tools are not always faster or better. With the cable in the spiral determine length. Remove plastic coating if present. With pliers kink the spiral to open up a coil where you want to cut it. File diagonally with the corner of a file to cut half way thru then use pliers to bend back and forth to break at the file cut. Controlled operation no chance of damage to inner cable no slip of the die grinder. You are the mechanic in charge, 40 years of manufacturing and maintenance. Cut many cables. It has a mutistrand center and I believe spiral wrap. Not sure of material type. Was hesitant to pull the center back because I think the friction may be too much to push it in place later, especially if it collapses slightly. One thing I can try is to raise up one end and put a lube on it to reduce friction. It probably hasn't been lubed in many years. On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:09 PM, Phil Lankford via groups.io If the cable is the type that has no fitting on the end then fully withdraw the cable from the sheath that you are shortening. If not possible then try inserting a narrow section of feeler gage steel into the sleeve. It will not afford so much protection from your Dremel city of wheel but will nudge the cable away from the side being cut. I have done a lot of motorcycle cables. Phil Wrap it with masking tape. Use a die grinder with cutting blade. You'll use the die grinder for lots of things. I need to shorten an armored cable, like a bicycle cable. What's the best way to cut the armor without damaging the strands?
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