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Jay Scheevel
I have used 1/8” stainless steel tubing for may brake lines, with a small PTFE (Teflon) segment at each end for flexibility. The PTFE will take more pressure than the Nyla flow, and is good to 500F. The stainless will last forever without corrosion and also is a narrower line that will take up less room in the corner of your elevator slot core. Easier to bleed, since the interior volume of the tubing is very small, bubbles move quickly through it. My 2 cents. Cheers, Jay
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Sam Hoskins
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2021 9:04 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Brittle fuel sight tube It's not too bad to replace. You can run it in the lower corner of the elevator slots. You will have to cut a slot in your wheel pant to bring it down to the brake but once you get started is not really that bad. Lucky break - happening on the ground! Certainly going to be checking mine. The original plastic hydraulic brake lines worry me, too. I have found spare material, that I had left over, to be very brittle too (not surprising after 40 years, I suppose). Anyone have experience of replacing this? How easy/difficult is it?
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Just be aware on the 1/8" SS brake lines that wall thickness, and therefore inside diameter, matter. James Redmond on his Berkut ended up ripping out all of the 1/8" 0.035" wall stainless and replaced it with 1/8" 0.020" lines. The Q-birds may be different run lengths, but I think the issue is the same. On my Cozy I went with 1/4" aluminum hard lines and stainless braided teflon lines for the flexible pieces and it has been trouble-free since installation.
On Mon, May 10, 2021 at 10:00 AM Jay Scheevel < jay@...> wrote: I have used 1/8” stainless steel tubing for may brake lines, with a small PTFE (Teflon) segment at each end for flexibility. The PTFE will take more pressure than the Nyla flow, and is good to 500F. The stainless will last forever without corrosion and also is a narrower line that will take up less room in the corner of your elevator slot core. Easier to bleed, since the interior volume of the tubing is very small, bubbles move quickly through it. My 2 cents. Cheers, Jay From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Sam Hoskins
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2021 9:04 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Brittle fuel sight tube It's not too bad to replace. You can run it in the lower corner of the elevator slots. You will have to cut a slot in your wheel pant to bring it down to the brake but once you get started is not really that bad. Lucky break - happening on the ground! Certainly going to be checking mine. The original plastic hydraulic brake lines worry me, too. I have found spare material, that I had left over, to be very brittle too (not surprising after 40 years, I suppose). Anyone have experience of replacing this? How easy/difficult is it?
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On Mon, May 10, 2021 at 10:07 AM Kevin R. Walsh < krwalsh@...> wrote: Just be aware on the 1/8" SS brake lines that wall thickness, and therefore inside diameter, matter. James Redmond on his Berkut ended up ripping out all of the 1/8" 0.035" wall stainless and replaced it with 1/8" 0.020" lines. The Q-birds may be different run lengths, but I think the issue is the same. On my Cozy I went with 1/4" aluminum hard lines and stainless braided teflon lines for the flexible pieces and it has been trouble-free since installation.
On Mon, May 10, 2021 at 10:00 AM Jay Scheevel < jay@...> wrote: I have used 1/8” stainless steel tubing for may brake lines, with a small PTFE (Teflon) segment at each end for flexibility. The PTFE will take more pressure than the Nyla flow, and is good to 500F. The stainless will last forever without corrosion and also is a narrower line that will take up less room in the corner of your elevator slot core. Easier to bleed, since the interior volume of the tubing is very small, bubbles move quickly through it. My 2 cents. Cheers, Jay From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Sam Hoskins
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2021 9:04 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Brittle fuel sight tube It's not too bad to replace. You can run it in the lower corner of the elevator slots. You will have to cut a slot in your wheel pant to bring it down to the brake but once you get started is not really that bad. Lucky break - happening on the ground! Certainly going to be checking mine. The original plastic hydraulic brake lines worry me, too. I have found spare material, that I had left over, to be very brittle too (not surprising after 40 years, I suppose). Anyone have experience of replacing this? How easy/difficult is it?
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Kevin
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Jay Scheevel
Here is what I used. Purchased from McMaster Carr. Type 304 Smooth-Bore Seamless Stainless Steel Tubing, 1/8" OD, .085" ID, .02" Wall Cheers, Jay
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Kevin R. Walsh
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2021 11:08 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Brake lines On Mon, May 10, 2021 at 10:07 AM Kevin R. Walsh <krwalsh@...> wrote: Just be aware on the 1/8" SS brake lines that wall thickness, and therefore inside diameter, matter. James Redmond on his Berkut ended up ripping out all of the 1/8" 0.035" wall stainless and replaced it with 1/8" 0.020" lines. The Q-birds may be different run lengths, but I think the issue is the same. On my Cozy I went with 1/4" aluminum hard lines and stainless braided teflon lines for the flexible pieces and it has been trouble-free since installation. On Mon, May 10, 2021 at 10:00 AM Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote: I have used 1/8” stainless steel tubing for may brake lines, with a small PTFE (Teflon) segment at each end for flexibility. The PTFE will take more pressure than the Nyla flow, and is good to 500F. The stainless will last forever without corrosion and also is a narrower line that will take up less room in the corner of your elevator slot core. Easier to bleed, since the interior volume of the tubing is very small, bubbles move quickly through it. My 2 cents. Cheers, Jay From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Sam Hoskins
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2021 9:04 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Brittle fuel sight tube It's not too bad to replace. You can run it in the lower corner of the elevator slots. You will have to cut a slot in your wheel pant to bring it down to the brake but once you get started is not really that bad. Lucky break - happening on the ground! Certainly going to be checking mine. The original plastic hydraulic brake lines worry me, too. I have found spare material, that I had left over, to be very brittle too (not surprising after 40 years, I suppose). Anyone have experience of replacing this? How easy/difficult is it?
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Jay, do you have photos or a parts list for how the transition from the SS to PTFE works? Special fittings or ???
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-MD
#2827 (still thinking about planning on visualizing how to finish building)
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Jay Scheevel
Hi Mike, I used custom lengths, as you will need to also. I had the hoses pre-made with fittings pre-installed from DiscountHydraulicHose.com. The specs for the tubing from them is: “1/4" SAE 100R14A PTFE Hose Assembly”. This is a stainless-braided-sheath PTFE tubing. You can custom design them on their website. They have an website widget that is easy to use. When I was ordering the hose, there were a variety of fittings. I selected “T09-04-04 | ¼” JIC Female Swivel fittings” because they had the shortest swaged sleeve, but was still about ¾” inch long, so plan for that much host to be rigid on each end. They tell you how to measure and do the design. You can choose from straight, 45 and 90 fittings. These fittings are not small, so plan accordingly. The ¼” is the smallest PTFE braided tubing they have, so you will have to buy some male to male 1/8” to ¼” adapters (37 degree/JIC), plus some nuts and collets for the 1/8” tubing. These are available from Spruce, I think. If not, then a hotrod custom site, such as JEGs will have them. I chose this hose because price per hose was so good and the quality very good. Make sure you use a professional quality flare tool to do your flares on the stainless. Best to do most of the flare, turn the tube 90 degrees in the retainer and finish up the flare. This makes it nice and symmetrical and the seal perfect. I suppose there are places you can buy similar 1/8” hoses, but I could not find them, so I went with these good quality ¼” ones. The combination of the 1/8” stainless hard-line and the ¼” flexible works well and will last longer than I will. Good luck. Cheers, Jay
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Michael
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2021 11:54 PM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Brake lines Jay, do you have photos or a parts list for how the transition from the SS to PTFE works? Special fittings or ???
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-MD
#2827 (still thinking about planning on visualizing how to finish building)
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