Q1 - Main wing - Flip tabel


Eugen Pilarski
 

Hello Q-Community,

Im on my way to build the main wing, please find in the attachment picture from ailerons slot with 1 bid 45° with some peelply on the top.

Additional to that it´s necessary to flip the table to place 2 Bid at 45° to Spanwise direction, page 9-7 of  Quickie Plans. Is there any solution available to do not flip the table (picture in attachment) ? I do not like to move the Jigs in any way after spend couple of hour to level the table and the wing.

Best regards 

Eugen 


Anthony P
 



Get two of these or make your own from wood or metal.

It looks like they're just trying to get gravity to work with you instead of against.  
If you can fixture, clamp, and vacuum bag well enough, I bet it can be done horizontally.
You seem to be very good at fixturing and vacuum bagging.


--
Q2 N86KL


Chris Walterson
 

Eugen  I made four sets of adjustable jigs.  While the wing is in the jig I bondod the  slotted plywood to the wing.  The other pieces of plywood are installed with two bolts in the slots for adjustment. Using a string and digital level the plywood pieces are leveled and tightened.  Before moving anything I glued a piece of plywood on the wing for level reference.. Now you can  break the wing loose and attach the aileron slots. After you can flip the wing onto the leveled plywood and glass some more. Once the wing is glassed I also install another plywood piece on top for level reference during installation in the fuslelage.

 Clear as mud???           Chris


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Frankenbird Vern
 

 Yes it is the way to do this.. in the factory settings these types of tools are named "strongbacks".  A stable frame of some kind to maintain the wing in construction or during moves to final join. The wings I am more used to working with are as much as 20 meters span or more each but the same reasoning and methods apply. 

 Eugen.. adding the piece highlighted in red below that Chris mentions in his build process for final alignment before moving anything is a key feature. 
Setting your decalage much simplified.

 In my case, with finished surfaces, decalage is going to be a bit of a challenge fitting accurately within the fuselage shell. 😌   


From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> on behalf of Chris Walterson <dkeats@...>
Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2022 10:21 AM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Q1 - Main wing - Flip tabel
 
 Eugen  I made four sets of adjustable jigs.  While the wing is in the
jig I bondod the  slotted plywood to the wing.  The other pieces of
plywood are installed with two bolts in the slots for adjustment. Using
a string and digital level the plywood pieces are leveled and
tightened.  Before moving anything I glued a piece of plywood on the
wing for level reference.. Now you can  break the wing loose and attach
the aileron slots. After you can flip the wing onto the leveled plywood
and glass some more. Once the wing is glassed I also install another
plywood piece on top for level reference during installation in the
fuslelage.

  Clear as mud???           Chris


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Terry Crouch
 

Hi Eugen,

When I built my wing I leveled 4 saw horses all is the same plane and bonded them to the floor. I built a table on top of them with hinges on one side. Hinges pins must all line up. Leveled and aligned the wings jigs, Glasses around the aileron edge of the outer cores installed the cores. Then it is easy to lift the table 90 degrees and screw on some supports to hold it in place to glass sheer web. Pay attention to allow for thickness of sheer web overlap on to outer cores. I sent you some photos.

Terry Crouch
Quickie N14TC




-----Original Message-----
From: Eugen Pilarski <interbus@...>
To: main@Q-List.groups.io
Sent: Sun, Jan 23, 2022 9:23 am
Subject: [Q-List] Q1 - Main wing - Flip tabel

Hello Q-Community,

Im on my way to build the main wing, please find in the attachment picture from ailerons slot with 1 bid 45° with some peelply on the top.

Additional to that it´s necessary to flip the table to place 2 Bid at 45° to Spanwise direction, page 9-7 of  Quickie Plans. Is there any solution available to do not flip the table (picture in attachment) ? I do not like to move the Jigs in any way after spend couple of hour to level the table and the wing.

Best regards 

Eugen 


Eugen Pilarski
 

Hi @ all,

thanks for your comments and hints, after I spend two weekends to listen all Q-News letters and looks around for a solution that cover that issue.

Currently the solution that Terry indicate sounds like the best option, based on the fact, that the main wing at this stage need to turn around 90 degree without any layout of BID or UNI glass on it.  It's necessary to join the foam cores together with micro slurry and I'm not sure how strange this combo are before turn the wing to glass the shear web area. I think that this step is only necessary, as Anthony noted, because of gravity and the "lower" layers.  I also thought about building a partial vacuum in this area to save me the turning, but there is the problem of sealing, which is easier on a smooth surface than on a very porous one like the foam. Maybe I worry to much about this step.

@Terry, did you send the picture already?

Best regards

Eugen 


Chris Walterson
 

Eugen------  I think the main wing cores need to be glassed before flipping and then you join the aileron cores, and glass them,

 At least that is how  I remember it on my Dragonfly and Q200. I think this is how it was done on the Q1 I built also. Could be wrong, it's been a while, but it makes sense  micro the cores together , while installing them in the jigging  templates.

 Lay up the glass on the foam going over the edge about an inch and covering the back shear web. Peel ply the entire wing or at least all the edges. Install the plywood jigs as in my photo and using a string or preferably lazer level and digital level.

Break the foam from the bottom jig and flip it onto the level plywood jigs , then glass this surface going over the back shear web and over the front. Don't forget to remove peel ply. Remember to install level block on finished wing. Now you can flip it on it's nose to glue on the aileron cores. You can make an airfoil template to help with aligning. Now you can turn it and glass the cores.  Leave on the plywood templates and finish the glassing using the plywood level jigs against the table.

This is how I prefer to do it.--------------  Chris




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Chris Walterson
 

Eugen-------------- I dug out my old construction pictures from the Q1 I built in 94.  I did lay up the glass on one side before turning. Then layed the glass on the other side. Then stand on nose and glue aileron fairings in place . Then install aileron hinges. Then , lay back down and install glass to hold aileron fairings to main wing.

 When the aileron hinges are installed the ailerons need to be made. As I said before it is better to install the  hinge inserts in the ailerons tubes and then attach them to the foam and glass. Same for elevators.

  That's my story and I am sticking to it.  Take care--------------  Chris


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Eugen Pilarski
 

Hello Q Community,

 

Thank you for your messages and tips. I have now implemented it according to the procedure from a Q-talk #9 from 1983, attached the link to it. Just Duck tape, micro, resin, glass, compoflex, peel ply and a vacuum bag. 

Main wing shear and rib

The connection with the two layers BID in the middle I will additionally support with a local vacuum bag, the idea I have copied from the CozyGirls.

Attached are some pictures.

How do you think I should run the cables for a strobe light at the wing tips?  Just put a tube in the foam from the top and fix it with micro? Which size I should choice? What would you guys recommend?

Best regards

 

Eugen


Frankenbird Vern
 

 In my Dragonfly wing the wire is buried in the aileron cove, Eugen. A simple "drill" of tubing with a "tooth" made from 
hack saw on one end cleanly cut the hole in the foam from the cove centerline outboard end to the Wingtip, then 
was a groove cut forward to the navigation light.

 It's not a large distance from the aileron cove to the wingtip. Perhaps 20cm. 

I will be correcting the span and developing a new tip design and lighting to match so in effect my ailerons will be even 
less distance to the tip. Still the cove is a better location for this wire. Do all you can to avoid interruptions of the upper
skin to foam area in both your Wing and Canard. If you must disrupt the area, the lower surface in this construction is 
much safer structurally. Composites fail in compression, not tension.      

 A conduit to carry the wire, most I have seen use small diameter acrylic tube, as is my wing. Modern LED wiring demands are 
near zero of a concern for heating as the original halogen strobes demanded. Still..possible to have electrical short so consider 
protection of your foam structure.

 Dry Fiberglass is amazingly effective in blocking heat transfer. The resin is fuel to fire however. When I reduce the wingspan I 
will be wrapping the wire in dry fiberglass cloth and then inserting through the tube conduit.

Vern    

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> on behalf of Eugen Pilarski <interbus@...>
Sent: Sunday, February 6, 2022 12:47 PM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Q1 - Main wing - Flip tabel
 

Hello Q Community,

 

Thank you for your messages and tips. I have now implemented it according to the procedure from a Q-talk #9 from 1983, attached the link to it. Just Duck tape, micro, resin, glass, compoflex, peel ply and a vacuum bag. 

Main wing shear and rib

The connection with the two layers BID in the middle I will additionally support with a local vacuum bag, the idea I have copied from the CozyGirls.

Attached are some pictures.

How do you think I should run the cables for a strobe light at the wing tips?  Just put a tube in the foam from the top and fix it with micro? Which size I should choice? What would you guys recommend?

Best regards

 

Eugen