Tank Fitting Question


 

Designing this part to glue into sidewall of header tank for return and aux tank lines ...



2 lines attaching to the header tank thru this 1/4 plate are 3/8 aluminum hard tubing lines and the plate will be tapped for pipe fitting.

So is this the right fitting type for the purpose? ... https://www.amazon.com/ACEFLOW-Straight-Fitting-Adapter-Aluminum/dp/B088P2S9B8

I am trying to figure out what size the hole needs to be cut for tapping and therefore the outside clearances.

Thanks for your help, must be evening fog that's stopping me from clear thinking :-)

Robert


--
Robert "TheFrisco" Schmid
(408) 805-5450

www.facebook.com/TheFlyingFriscos
www.theflyingfriscos.com

Love building planes almost as much as flying. Latest completed build is "Loki", a Chinook Plus 2 bush plane.


Anthony P
 

That fitting will work.  You need a 37/64" tap drill and I would recommend leaving material in the wall around the hole that is at least half of that diameter.  Closer to a full diameter would be better.
https://drillsandcutters.com/npt-tap-drill-chart/
This is a completely separate issue from bond area needed to permanently attach the Al to the glass/foam given CTE, bond strength, vibration, fitting torque, fitting expansion...


I always try very hard to avoid pipe threads for installation, sealing, and maintenance reasons.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sfl-sf92206blk
https://www.hydraulicstore.com/images/pdf/Thread_Identification_Guide.pdf
https://sct-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/saej1926r_2022.pdf





--
Q2 N86KL


Jay Scheevel
 

Robert,

 

With respect to bonding and durability, I would recommend that you use phenolic instead of aluminum. It bonds perfectly with the tank materials, and it also can be cut and threaded in the same way as aluminum (hole dimension should provide slightly more material than if you are threading aluminum. Sealing compound on the threads will work to perfectly seal the threads. It will not be subject to vibration failure of the bond as would the aluminum, and fittings will be plenty tough and will not leak. You would use the same fittings that you have shown.

 

Cheers,
Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Anthony P
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 7:30 AM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Tank Fitting Question

 

That fitting will work.  You need a 37/64" tap drill and I would recommend leaving material in the wall around the hole that is at least half of that diameter.  Closer to a full diameter would be better.
https://drillsandcutters.com/npt-tap-drill-chart/
This is a completely separate issue from bond area needed to permanently attach the Al to the glass/foam given CTE, bond strength, vibration, fitting torque, fitting expansion...


I always try very hard to avoid pipe threads for installation, sealing, and maintenance reasons.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sfl-sf92206blk
https://www.hydraulicstore.com/images/pdf/Thread_Identification_Guide.pdf
https://sct-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/saej1926r_2022.pdf





--
Q2 N86KL


Jay Scheevel
 

Here is an example.  It is not exactly the same function as you are after, but it is an example of use of phenolic. I have been using this for 4 years without a hint of a problem. See page 10 of the following document: http://n8wq.scheevel.com/documents/build_logs/09_N8WQ-log_Construction-FuelTanks.pdf

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Jay Scheevel
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 8:39 AM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Tank Fitting Question

 

Robert,

 

With respect to bonding and durability, I would recommend that you use phenolic instead of aluminum. It bonds perfectly with the tank materials, and it also can be cut and threaded in the same way as aluminum (hole dimension should provide slightly more material than if you are threading aluminum. Sealing compound on the threads will work to perfectly seal the threads. It will not be subject to vibration failure of the bond as would the aluminum, and fittings will be plenty tough and will not leak. You would use the same fittings that you have shown.

 

Cheers,
Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Anthony P
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 7:30 AM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Tank Fitting Question

 

That fitting will work.  You need a 37/64" tap drill and I would recommend leaving material in the wall around the hole that is at least half of that diameter.  Closer to a full diameter would be better.
https://drillsandcutters.com/npt-tap-drill-chart/
This is a completely separate issue from bond area needed to permanently attach the Al to the glass/foam given CTE, bond strength, vibration, fitting torque, fitting expansion...


I always try very hard to avoid pipe threads for installation, sealing, and maintenance reasons.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sfl-sf92206blk
https://www.hydraulicstore.com/images/pdf/Thread_Identification_Guide.pdf
https://sct-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/saej1926r_2022.pdf





--
Q2 N86KL


Jim Patillo
 

I agree with Jay. I used phenolic for my 3/8” stainless fuel line connections in the header tank.
22 years, works fine. 

Jim Patillo
N46JP - Q200
Almost 1900 hours on my Q. 


From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> on behalf of Jay Scheevel <jay@...>
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 7:45:14 AM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Tank Fitting Question
 

Here is an example.  It is not exactly the same function as you are after, but it is an example of use of phenolic. I have been using this for 4 years without a hint of a problem. See page 10 of the following document: http://n8wq.scheevel.com/documents/build_logs/09_N8WQ-log_Construction-FuelTanks.pdf

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Jay Scheevel
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 8:39 AM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Tank Fitting Question

 

Robert,

 

With respect to bonding and durability, I would recommend that you use phenolic instead of aluminum. It bonds perfectly with the tank materials, and it also can be cut and threaded in the same way as aluminum (hole dimension should provide slightly more material than if you are threading aluminum. Sealing compound on the threads will work to perfectly seal the threads. It will not be subject to vibration failure of the bond as would the aluminum, and fittings will be plenty tough and will not leak. You would use the same fittings that you have shown.

 

Cheers,
Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Anthony P
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 7:30 AM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Tank Fitting Question

 

That fitting will work.  You need a 37/64" tap drill and I would recommend leaving material in the wall around the hole that is at least half of that diameter.  Closer to a full diameter would be better.
https://drillsandcutters.com/npt-tap-drill-chart/
This is a completely separate issue from bond area needed to permanently attach the Al to the glass/foam given CTE, bond strength, vibration, fitting torque, fitting expansion...


I always try very hard to avoid pipe threads for installation, sealing, and maintenance reasons.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sfl-sf92206blk
https://www.hydraulicstore.com/images/pdf/Thread_Identification_Guide.pdf
https://sct-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/saej1926r_2022.pdf





--
Q2 N86KL


Frankenbird Vern
 

 It's stinky if a disk sander is used. Pheeew!!  Robert..you will need to "ruff" the phenolic 
bond surfaces.  Take your time in your thread cutting because it can be brittle..but it is
true the material is durable.  

Vern @
Boeing OKC
E7 


From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> on behalf of Jim Patillo <Logistics_engineering@...>
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 11:20 AM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Tank Fitting Question
 
I agree with Jay. I used phenolic for my 3/8” stainless fuel line connections in the header tank.
22 years, works fine. 

Jim Patillo
N46JP - Q200
Almost 1900 hours on my Q. 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> on behalf of Jay Scheevel <jay@...>
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 7:45:14 AM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Tank Fitting Question
 

Here is an example.  It is not exactly the same function as you are after, but it is an example of use of phenolic. I have been using this for 4 years without a hint of a problem. See page 10 of the following document: http://n8wq.scheevel.com/documents/build_logs/09_N8WQ-log_Construction-FuelTanks.pdf

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Jay Scheevel
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 8:39 AM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Tank Fitting Question

 

Robert,

 

With respect to bonding and durability, I would recommend that you use phenolic instead of aluminum. It bonds perfectly with the tank materials, and it also can be cut and threaded in the same way as aluminum (hole dimension should provide slightly more material than if you are threading aluminum. Sealing compound on the threads will work to perfectly seal the threads. It will not be subject to vibration failure of the bond as would the aluminum, and fittings will be plenty tough and will not leak. You would use the same fittings that you have shown.

 

Cheers,
Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Anthony P
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 7:30 AM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Tank Fitting Question

 

That fitting will work.  You need a 37/64" tap drill and I would recommend leaving material in the wall around the hole that is at least half of that diameter.  Closer to a full diameter would be better.
https://drillsandcutters.com/npt-tap-drill-chart/
This is a completely separate issue from bond area needed to permanently attach the Al to the glass/foam given CTE, bond strength, vibration, fitting torque, fitting expansion...


I always try very hard to avoid pipe threads for installation, sealing, and maintenance reasons.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sfl-sf92206blk
https://www.hydraulicstore.com/images/pdf/Thread_Identification_Guide.pdf
https://sct-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/saej1926r_2022.pdf





--
Q2 N86KL


Chris Walterson
 

Robert---------------  Jay has a good point using phenolic, BUT, I still use aluminum.  However I drill many more holes in it for anchoring and I also bevel the holes with a larger drill bit. Sand and clean the part with acetone and then add wet flox to the part and imbed it into the flox on the header with a few layers of glass. This will make a glass --flox --glass bond through the fitting. I like to thread the part ahead of time and fill the hole with plastasine,[ silly putty} with a bit for tape over it. Cut the glass when it is still green and remove the tape and silly putty.

It's not that it is any better, but that is what I do.--------------  Chris


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Jay Scheevel
 

Those are good points, Chris. I did the same for my Plexiglas when I built the frames for my 3-part/door opening. I drilled 1/4" holes in the edge of the plexiglass at about 2 inch spacing and pushed flox through those holes, which then bonded with the fiberglass on either side. Probably overkill since burnished plex bonds with epoxy/glass layups anyway, but I like the extra strength.

Cheers,
Jay

-----Original Message-----
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Chris Walterson
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 1:03 PM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] Tank Fitting Question

Robert--------------- Jay has a good point using phenolic, BUT, I still use aluminum. However I drill many more holes in it for anchoring and I also bevel the holes with a larger drill bit. Sand and clean the part with acetone and then add wet flox to the part and imbed it into the flox on the header with a few layers of glass. This will make a glass --flox --glass bond through the fitting. I like to thread the part ahead of time and fill the hole with plastasine,[ silly putty} with a bit for tape over it. Cut the glass when it is still green and remove the tape and silly putty.

It's not that it is any better, but that is what I do.-------------- Chris


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