Tank Fitting Question
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Designing this part to glue into sidewall of header tank for return and aux tank lines ...
 2 lines attaching to the header tank thru this 1/4 plate are 3/8 aluminum hard tubing lines and the plate will be tapped for pipe fitting. So is this the right fitting type for the purpose? ... https://www.amazon.com/ACEFLOW-Straight-Fitting-Adapter-Aluminum/dp/B088P2S9B8 I am trying to figure out what size the hole needs to be cut for tapping and therefore the outside clearances. Thanks for your help, must be evening fog that's stopping me from clear thinking :-) Robert -- Robert "TheFrisco" Schmid (408) 805-5450 www.facebook.com/TheFlyingFriscos www.theflyingfriscos.com Love building planes almost as much as flying. Latest completed build is "Loki", a Chinook Plus 2 bush plane.
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Anthony P
That fitting will work. You need a 37/64" tap drill and I would recommend leaving material in the wall around the hole that is at least half of that diameter. Closer to a full diameter would be better.
https://drillsandcutters.com/npt-tap-drill-chart/ This is a completely separate issue from bond area needed to permanently attach the Al to the glass/foam given CTE, bond strength, vibration, fitting torque, fitting expansion... I always try very hard to avoid pipe threads for installation, sealing, and maintenance reasons. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sfl-sf92206blk https://www.hydraulicstore.com/images/pdf/Thread_Identification_Guide.pdf https://sct-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/saej1926r_2022.pdf -- Q2 N86KL
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Robert,
With respect to bonding and durability, I would recommend that you use phenolic instead of aluminum. It bonds perfectly with the tank materials, and it also can be cut and threaded in the same way as aluminum (hole dimension should provide slightly more material than if you are threading aluminum. Sealing compound on the threads will work to perfectly seal the threads. It will not be subject to vibration failure of the bond as would the aluminum, and fittings will be plenty tough and will not leak. You would use the same fittings that you have shown.
Cheers,
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Anthony P
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 7:30 AM To: main@Q-List.groups.io Subject: Re: [Q-List] Tank Fitting Question
That fitting will work. You need a 37/64" tap drill and I would recommend leaving material in the wall around the hole that is at least half of that diameter. Closer to a full diameter would be better.
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Here is an example. It is not exactly the same function as you are after, but it is an example of use of phenolic. I have been using this for 4 years without a hint of a problem. See page 10 of the following document: http://n8wq.scheevel.com/documents/build_logs/09_N8WQ-log_Construction-FuelTanks.pdf
Cheers, Jay
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Jay Scheevel
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 8:39 AM To: main@Q-List.groups.io Subject: Re: [Q-List] Tank Fitting Question
Robert,
With respect to bonding and durability, I would recommend that you use phenolic instead of aluminum. It bonds perfectly with the tank materials, and it also can be cut and threaded in the same way as aluminum (hole dimension should provide slightly more material than if you are threading aluminum. Sealing compound on the threads will work to perfectly seal the threads. It will not be subject to vibration failure of the bond as would the aluminum, and fittings will be plenty tough and will not leak. You would use the same fittings that you have shown.
Cheers,
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Anthony P
That fitting will work. You need a 37/64" tap drill and I would recommend leaving material in the wall around the hole that is at least half of that diameter. Closer to a full diameter would be better.
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I agree with Jay. I used phenolic for my 3/8” stainless fuel line connections in the header tank.
22 years, works fine.
Jim Patillo
N46JP - Q200
Almost 1900 hours on my Q.
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> on behalf of Jay Scheevel <jay@...>
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 7:45:14 AM To: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> Subject: Re: [Q-List] Tank Fitting Question Here is an example. It is not exactly the same function as you are after, but it is an example of use of phenolic. I have been using this for 4 years without a hint of a problem. See page 10 of the following document: http://n8wq.scheevel.com/documents/build_logs/09_N8WQ-log_Construction-FuelTanks.pdf
Cheers, Jay
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Jay Scheevel
Robert,
With respect to bonding and durability, I would recommend that you use phenolic instead of aluminum. It bonds perfectly with the tank materials, and it also can be cut and threaded in the same way as aluminum (hole dimension should provide slightly more material than if you are threading aluminum. Sealing compound on the threads will work to perfectly seal the threads. It will not be subject to vibration failure of the bond as would the aluminum, and fittings will be plenty tough and will not leak. You would use the same fittings that you have shown.
Cheers,
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Anthony P
That fitting will work. You need a 37/64" tap drill and I would recommend leaving material in the wall around the hole that is at least half of that diameter. Closer to a full diameter would be better.
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It's stinky if a disk sander is used. Pheeew!! Robert..you will need to "ruff" the phenolic
bond surfaces. Take your time in your thread cutting because it can be brittle..but it is
true the material is durable.
Vern @
Boeing OKC
E7
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> on behalf of Jim Patillo <Logistics_engineering@...>
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 11:20 AM To: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> Subject: Re: [Q-List] Tank Fitting Question I agree with Jay. I used phenolic for my 3/8” stainless fuel line connections in the header tank.
22 years, works fine.
Jim Patillo
N46JP - Q200
Almost 1900 hours on my Q.
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> on behalf of Jay Scheevel <jay@...>
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 7:45:14 AM To: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> Subject: Re: [Q-List] Tank Fitting Question Here is an example. It is not exactly the same function as you are after, but it is an example of use of phenolic. I have been using this for 4 years without a hint of a problem. See page 10 of the following document: http://n8wq.scheevel.com/documents/build_logs/09_N8WQ-log_Construction-FuelTanks.pdf
Cheers, Jay
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Jay Scheevel
Robert,
With respect to bonding and durability, I would recommend that you use phenolic instead of aluminum. It bonds perfectly with the tank materials, and it also can be cut and threaded in the same way as aluminum (hole dimension should provide slightly more material than if you are threading aluminum. Sealing compound on the threads will work to perfectly seal the threads. It will not be subject to vibration failure of the bond as would the aluminum, and fittings will be plenty tough and will not leak. You would use the same fittings that you have shown.
Cheers,
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Anthony P
That fitting will work. You need a 37/64" tap drill and I would recommend leaving material in the wall around the hole that is at least half of that diameter. Closer to a full diameter would be better.
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Chris Walterson
Robert--------------- Jay has a good point using phenolic, BUT, I still use aluminum. However I drill many more holes in it for anchoring and I also bevel the holes with a larger drill bit. Sand and clean the part with acetone and then add wet flox to the part and imbed it into the flox on the header with a few layers of glass. This will make a glass --flox --glass bond through the fitting. I like to thread the part ahead of time and fill the hole with plastasine,[ silly putty} with a bit for tape over it. Cut the glass when it is still green and remove the tape and silly putty.
It's not that it is any better, but that is what I do.-------------- Chris -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com
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Those are good points, Chris. I did the same for my Plexiglas when I built the frames for my 3-part/door opening. I drilled 1/4" holes in the edge of the plexiglass at about 2 inch spacing and pushed flox through those holes, which then bonded with the fiberglass on either side. Probably overkill since burnished plex bonds with epoxy/glass layups anyway, but I like the extra strength.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Cheers, Jay
-----Original Message-----
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Chris Walterson Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 1:03 PM To: main@Q-List.groups.io Subject: Re: [Q-List] Tank Fitting Question Robert--------------- Jay has a good point using phenolic, BUT, I still use aluminum. However I drill many more holes in it for anchoring and I also bevel the holes with a larger drill bit. Sand and clean the part with acetone and then add wet flox to the part and imbed it into the flox on the header with a few layers of glass. This will make a glass --flox --glass bond through the fitting. I like to thread the part ahead of time and fill the hole with plastasine,[ silly putty} with a bit for tape over it. Cut the glass when it is still green and remove the tape and silly putty. It's not that it is any better, but that is what I do.-------------- Chris -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com
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