Topics

progress


Dorothea Keats
 

Managed to get the airplane flipped and now have most of the word done on the bottom. the root fairings are finished and the belly rad mounts are installed [ T nuts]  Two coats of roll on primer and then let it harden for a few days and do some sanding.

 having fun-------------  Chris in Canada



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Bruce Crain
 

Smooth Chris!  Sweet inboard main gears!
Bruce


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Dorothea Keats" <dkeats@...>
To: main@Q-List.groups.io
Subject: [Q-List] progress
Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2021 13:21:28 -0500

 Managed to get the airplane flipped and now have most of the word done
on the bottom. the root fairings are finished and the belly rad mounts
are installed [ T nuts]  Two coats of roll on primer and then let it
harden for a few days and do some sanding.

 having fun-------------  Chris in Canada



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Mike Steinsland
 

Hey Chris
Spray a very light coat of some black or contrasting color and I mean light where it is kinda speckaled
Later as your standing those little speckales will show you where all the low spots and scratches are as they will be the last to sand off

On Sat, Jan 16, 2021, 1:21 PM Dorothea Keats, <dkeats@...> wrote:
  Managed to get the airplane flipped and now have most of the word done
on the bottom. the root fairings are finished and the belly rad mounts
are installed [ T nuts]  Two coats of roll on primer and then let it
harden for a few days and do some sanding.

  having fun-------------  Chris in Canada



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Dorothea Keats
 

Good tip Mike.  I use a two foot board mostly and a sanding block along with a trouble light to look for lows and highs. I'll give the light misting of black paint a try.  I put the primmer on with a roller . I  have premarked  with a pencil any low spots I can feel with my hand. The prime I use I have mixed with micro so I lay it on thick in the low spots. Board sand it later. Your suggestion will make it all that much better.   Take care---------------  Chris


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Mike Steinsland
 

I usually start with a coarser paper, 80 - 120 just to take the "crust" off then hit it with a guide coat again and progressively move up to a finer paper.
If you go through the primer STOP (unless it's your filler)

3M makes a charcoal guide coat that I have used for years.
Here's an amazon link but you should be able to get it through your local jobber a lot cheaper


You put it on with a sponge like applicator (it's part of the the lid top)  You don't have to put it on heavy, a very light coat will give you all the contrast you need.
1 container will easily do your airplane

Nice thing with this is you don't get stinky paint fumes and overspray

On Sat, Jan 16, 2021 at 8:21 PM Dorothea Keats <dkeats@...> wrote:
  Good tip Mike.  I use a two foot board mostly and a sanding block
along with a trouble light to look for lows and highs. I'll give the
light misting of black paint a try.  I put the primmer on with a roller
. I  have premarked  with a pencil any low spots I can feel with my
hand. The prime I use I have mixed with micro so I lay it on thick in
the low spots. Board sand it later. Your suggestion will make it all
that much better.   Take care---------------  Chris


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Mike Steinsland


Mike Steinsland
 

On Sat, Jan 16, 2021 at 10:13 PM Mike Steinsland <mikeskustoms@...> wrote:
I usually start with a coarser paper, 80 - 120 just to take the "crust" off then hit it with a guide coat again and progressively move up to a finer paper.
If you go through the primer STOP (unless it's your filler)

3M makes a charcoal guide coat that I have used for years.
Here's an amazon link but you should be able to get it through your local jobber a lot cheaper


You put it on with a sponge like applicator (it's part of the the lid top)  You don't have to put it on heavy, a very light coat will give you all the contrast you need.
1 container will easily do your airplane

Nice thing with this is you don't get stinky paint fumes and overspray

On Sat, Jan 16, 2021 at 8:21 PM Dorothea Keats <dkeats@...> wrote:
  Good tip Mike.  I use a two foot board mostly and a sanding block
along with a trouble light to look for lows and highs. I'll give the
light misting of black paint a try.  I put the primmer on with a roller
. I  have premarked  with a pencil any low spots I can feel with my
hand. The prime I use I have mixed with micro so I lay it on thick in
the low spots. Board sand it later. Your suggestion will make it all
that much better.   Take care---------------  Chris


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Mike Steinsland



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Mike Steinsland


Sam Hoskins
 

I hope you guys have seen my epoxy wipe video. Probably too late in your stage, but it really works well and eliminates a lot of pain. Here it is. 


On Sat, Jan 16, 2021, 9:24 PM Mike Steinsland <MIKESKUSTOMS@...> wrote:

On Sat, Jan 16, 2021 at 10:13 PM Mike Steinsland <mikeskustoms@...> wrote:
I usually start with a coarser paper, 80 - 120 just to take the "crust" off then hit it with a guide coat again and progressively move up to a finer paper.
If you go through the primer STOP (unless it's your filler)

3M makes a charcoal guide coat that I have used for years.
Here's an amazon link but you should be able to get it through your local jobber a lot cheaper


You put it on with a sponge like applicator (it's part of the the lid top)  You don't have to put it on heavy, a very light coat will give you all the contrast you need.
1 container will easily do your airplane

Nice thing with this is you don't get stinky paint fumes and overspray

On Sat, Jan 16, 2021 at 8:21 PM Dorothea Keats <dkeats@...> wrote:
  Good tip Mike.  I use a two foot board mostly and a sanding block
along with a trouble light to look for lows and highs. I'll give the
light misting of black paint a try.  I put the primmer on with a roller
. I  have premarked  with a pencil any low spots I can feel with my
hand. The prime I use I have mixed with micro so I lay it on thick in
the low spots. Board sand it later. Your suggestion will make it all
that much better.   Take care---------------  Chris


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Mike Steinsland



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Mike Steinsland


Nathan Peck
 


Loved the method on two projects.  

On Sun, Jan 17, 2021 at 6:33 AM Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins@...> wrote:
I hope you guys have seen my epoxy wipe video. Probably too late in your stage, but it really works well and eliminates a lot of pain. Here it is. 

On Sat, Jan 16, 2021, 9:24 PM Mike Steinsland <MIKESKUSTOMS@...> wrote:

On Sat, Jan 16, 2021 at 10:13 PM Mike Steinsland <mikeskustoms@...> wrote:
I usually start with a coarser paper, 80 - 120 just to take the "crust" off then hit it with a guide coat again and progressively move up to a finer paper.
If you go through the primer STOP (unless it's your filler)

3M makes a charcoal guide coat that I have used for years.
Here's an amazon link but you should be able to get it through your local jobber a lot cheaper


You put it on with a sponge like applicator (it's part of the the lid top)  You don't have to put it on heavy, a very light coat will give you all the contrast you need.
1 container will easily do your airplane

Nice thing with this is you don't get stinky paint fumes and overspray

On Sat, Jan 16, 2021 at 8:21 PM Dorothea Keats <dkeats@...> wrote:
  Good tip Mike.  I use a two foot board mostly and a sanding block
along with a trouble light to look for lows and highs. I'll give the
light misting of black paint a try.  I put the primmer on with a roller
. I  have premarked  with a pencil any low spots I can feel with my
hand. The prime I use I have mixed with micro so I lay it on thick in
the low spots. Board sand it later. Your suggestion will make it all
that much better.   Take care---------------  Chris


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Mike Steinsland



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Mike Steinsland


Jerry Gmail
 

The fastest and best process. Jerry 


On Sun, Jan 17, 2021, 9:34 AM Nathan Peck <nathanpeck@...> wrote:

Loved the method on two projects.  

On Sun, Jan 17, 2021 at 6:33 AM Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins@...> wrote:
I hope you guys have seen my epoxy wipe video. Probably too late in your stage, but it really works well and eliminates a lot of pain. Here it is. 

On Sat, Jan 16, 2021, 9:24 PM Mike Steinsland <MIKESKUSTOMS@...> wrote:

On Sat, Jan 16, 2021 at 10:13 PM Mike Steinsland <mikeskustoms@...> wrote:
I usually start with a coarser paper, 80 - 120 just to take the "crust" off then hit it with a guide coat again and progressively move up to a finer paper.
If you go through the primer STOP (unless it's your filler)

3M makes a charcoal guide coat that I have used for years.
Here's an amazon link but you should be able to get it through your local jobber a lot cheaper


You put it on with a sponge like applicator (it's part of the the lid top)  You don't have to put it on heavy, a very light coat will give you all the contrast you need.
1 container will easily do your airplane

Nice thing with this is you don't get stinky paint fumes and overspray

On Sat, Jan 16, 2021 at 8:21 PM Dorothea Keats <dkeats@...> wrote:
  Good tip Mike.  I use a two foot board mostly and a sanding block
along with a trouble light to look for lows and highs. I'll give the
light misting of black paint a try.  I put the primmer on with a roller
. I  have premarked  with a pencil any low spots I can feel with my
hand. The prime I use I have mixed with micro so I lay it on thick in
the low spots. Board sand it later. Your suggestion will make it all
that much better.   Take care---------------  Chris


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Mike Steinsland



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Mike Steinsland


Dorothea Keats
 

Sam----------  Saw the video you made and am following that method , sort of.  As a homebuilder we modify the heck out of everything.

  I did the micro like you did although I thinned it with alcohol and applied it much wetter than you. After sanding I am applying primer with micro with a roller similar to your epoxi wipe.

 I like the charcoal Mike is suggesting , but has anyone ever tried chalk for a chalk line?  Comes in blue and red and may do similar. I am an old drywaller and we would add some chalk to drywall mud when you do final patching so you can identify the spots you worked on.

 I sprayed the bottom lightly last night like Mike suggested. Sanded a bit this morning and it worked great although I need to let it dry for another day so as not to clog the paper.  I sand with 120 and 150.  Works good in my application.

 I installed some more T nuts this morning in the firewall to hold my oil cooler. Still can't get over how good an idea they are. Could of used them thirty years ago. Also installed a plywood piece on the header tank to allow for attaching a terminal block for various grounds.

 Still need to attach some points on the inner fuselage to allow for attaching wiring and cables.

 Trying to think of everything, but i am bound to slip somewhere.  Take care---------------  Chris


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Kevin Boddicker
 

Chris,
Look into Click Bond. Neet stuff and made for attachment points in planes.
Kevin

On Jan 17, 2021, at 10:35 AM, Dorothea Keats <dkeats@tbaytel.net> wrote:

Sam---------- Saw the video you made and am following that method , sort of. As a homebuilder we modify the heck out of everything.

I did the micro like you did although I thinned it with alcohol and applied it much wetter than you. After sanding I am applying primer with micro with a roller similar to your epoxi wipe.

I like the charcoal Mike is suggesting , but has anyone ever tried chalk for a chalk line? Comes in blue and red and may do similar. I am an old drywaller and we would add some chalk to drywall mud when you do final patching so you can identify the spots you worked on.

I sprayed the bottom lightly last night like Mike suggested. Sanded a bit this morning and it worked great although I need to let it dry for another day so as not to clog the paper. I sand with 120 and 150. Works good in my application.

I installed some more T nuts this morning in the firewall to hold my oil cooler. Still can't get over how good an idea they are. Could of used them thirty years ago. Also installed a plywood piece on the header tank to allow for attaching a terminal block for various grounds.

Still need to attach some points on the inner fuselage to allow for attaching wiring and cables.

Trying to think of everything, but i am bound to slip somewhere. Take care--------------- Chris


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Jay Scheevel
 

Kevin is right. Almost all of my attachments/hard points are Click Bond
hardware. I do NOT recommend you buy their adhesive. It is very good stuff,
but it REALLY stinks for hours during and after the cure, and it has
virtually no shelf life. I quit using it, because I could not use it fast
enough before it dried up inside the packages and I had to clear out of the
shop if I bonded even one fastener. Instead I use the same surface prep, but
then use JB weld (4-minute type). It is the best. Only caveat on JB Weld is
that it does conduct electricity, so be sure not to bond exposed wires with
it. Don't ask me how I know.

I am sure Charlie Johnson will chime in. I learned about Click Bond from
him.

Cheers,
Jay

-----Original Message-----
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Kevin
Boddicker
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2021 10:10 AM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] progress

Chris,
Look into Click Bond. Neet stuff and made for attachment points in planes.
Kevin

On Jan 17, 2021, at 10:35 AM, Dorothea Keats <dkeats@tbaytel.net> wrote:

Sam---------- Saw the video you made and am following that method , sort
of. As a homebuilder we modify the heck out of everything.

I did the micro like you did although I thinned it with alcohol and
applied it much wetter than you. After sanding I am applying primer with
micro with a roller similar to your epoxi wipe.

I like the charcoal Mike is suggesting , but has anyone ever tried chalk
for a chalk line? Comes in blue and red and may do similar. I am an old
drywaller and we would add some chalk to drywall mud when you do final
patching so you can identify the spots you worked on.

I sprayed the bottom lightly last night like Mike suggested. Sanded a bit
this morning and it worked great although I need to let it dry for another
day so as not to clog the paper. I sand with 120 and 150. Works good in my
application.

I installed some more T nuts this morning in the firewall to hold my oil
cooler. Still can't get over how good an idea they are. Could of used them
thirty years ago. Also installed a plywood piece on the header tank to allow
for attaching a terminal block for various grounds.

Still need to attach some points on the inner fuselage to allow for
attaching wiring and cables.

Trying to think of everything, but i am bound to slip somewhere. Take
care--------------- Chris


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Mike Dwyer
 

Does Alcohol eat the blue/orange foam?  I know gas does but I'm not sure about all the different Alcohols.
Mike Dwyer

Q200 Website: http://goo.gl/V8IrJF


On Sun, Jan 17, 2021 at 11:36 AM Dorothea Keats <dkeats@...> wrote:
  Sam----------  Saw the video you made and am following that method ,
sort of.  As a homebuilder we modify the heck out of everything.

   I did the micro like you did although I thinned it with alcohol and
applied it much wetter than you. After sanding I am applying primer with
micro with a roller similar to your epoxi wipe.

  I like the charcoal Mike is suggesting , but has anyone ever tried
chalk for a chalk line?  Comes in blue and red and may do similar. I am
an old drywaller and we would add some chalk to drywall mud when you do
final patching so you can identify the spots you worked on.

  I sprayed the bottom lightly last night like Mike suggested. Sanded a
bit this morning and it worked great although I need to let it dry for
another day so as not to clog the paper.  I sand with 120 and 150. 
Works good in my application.

  I installed some more T nuts this morning in the firewall to hold my
oil cooler. Still can't get over how good an idea they are. Could of
used them thirty years ago. Also installed a plywood piece on the header
tank to allow for attaching a terminal block for various grounds.

  Still need to attach some points on the inner fuselage to allow for
attaching wiring and cables.

  Trying to think of everything, but i am bound to slip somewhere.  Take
care---------------  Chris


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Jay Scheevel
 

I know that acetone does, but I don’t think alcohol does. I have been using a product that is made by Aircraft Coatings Inc. called “wing wash” that is mostly alcohol and I tested it by putting a piece of blue foam in a jar full of the stuff for a month. The foam was no different when I took it out after that time.

 

If you are using a solvent that dissolves Styrofoam, you will need to be careful of pinholes. I did not want to worry about that, so I used something where I could literally pour it on and it would not matter.

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mike Dwyer
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2021 11:12 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] progress

 

Does Alcohol eat the blue/orange foam?  I know gas does but I'm not sure about all the different Alcohols.

Mike Dwyer

 

Q200 Website: http://goo.gl/V8IrJF

 

 

On Sun, Jan 17, 2021 at 11:36 AM Dorothea Keats <dkeats@...> wrote:

  Sam----------  Saw the video you made and am following that method ,
sort of.  As a homebuilder we modify the heck out of everything.

   I did the micro like you did although I thinned it with alcohol and
applied it much wetter than you. After sanding I am applying primer with
micro with a roller similar to your epoxi wipe.

  I like the charcoal Mike is suggesting , but has anyone ever tried
chalk for a chalk line?  Comes in blue and red and may do similar. I am
an old drywaller and we would add some chalk to drywall mud when you do
final patching so you can identify the spots you worked on.

  I sprayed the bottom lightly last night like Mike suggested. Sanded a
bit this morning and it worked great although I need to let it dry for
another day so as not to clog the paper.  I sand with 120 and 150. 
Works good in my application.

  I installed some more T nuts this morning in the firewall to hold my
oil cooler. Still can't get over how good an idea they are. Could of
used them thirty years ago. Also installed a plywood piece on the header
tank to allow for attaching a terminal block for various grounds.

  Still need to attach some points on the inner fuselage to allow for
attaching wiring and cables.

  Trying to think of everything, but i am bound to slip somewhere.  Take
care---------------  Chris


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Mike Dwyer
 

Good info Jay,
I'm curious which Alcohol you did your test with.  Ethanol, Methanol, Propanol?
Thanks,
Mike Dwyer

Q200 Website: http://goo.gl/V8IrJF


On Sun, Jan 17, 2021 at 1:28 PM Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:

I know that acetone does, but I don’t think alcohol does. I have been using a product that is made by Aircraft Coatings Inc. called “wing wash” that is mostly alcohol and I tested it by putting a piece of blue foam in a jar full of the stuff for a month. The foam was no different when I took it out after that time.

 

If you are using a solvent that dissolves Styrofoam, you will need to be careful of pinholes. I did not want to worry about that, so I used something where I could literally pour it on and it would not matter.

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mike Dwyer
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2021 11:12 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] progress

 

Does Alcohol eat the blue/orange foam?  I know gas does but I'm not sure about all the different Alcohols.

Mike Dwyer

 

Q200 Website: http://goo.gl/V8IrJF

 

 

On Sun, Jan 17, 2021 at 11:36 AM Dorothea Keats <dkeats@...> wrote:

  Sam----------  Saw the video you made and am following that method ,
sort of.  As a homebuilder we modify the heck out of everything.

   I did the micro like you did although I thinned it with alcohol and
applied it much wetter than you. After sanding I am applying primer with
micro with a roller similar to your epoxi wipe.

  I like the charcoal Mike is suggesting , but has anyone ever tried
chalk for a chalk line?  Comes in blue and red and may do similar. I am
an old drywaller and we would add some chalk to drywall mud when you do
final patching so you can identify the spots you worked on.

  I sprayed the bottom lightly last night like Mike suggested. Sanded a
bit this morning and it worked great although I need to let it dry for
another day so as not to clog the paper.  I sand with 120 and 150. 
Works good in my application.

  I installed some more T nuts this morning in the firewall to hold my
oil cooler. Still can't get over how good an idea they are. Could of
used them thirty years ago. Also installed a plywood piece on the header
tank to allow for attaching a terminal block for various grounds.

  Still need to attach some points on the inner fuselage to allow for
attaching wiring and cables.

  Trying to think of everything, but i am bound to slip somewhere.  Take
care---------------  Chris


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Jay Scheevel
 

I used the “Wing wash” compound as is (comes in gallon cans. It is designed to prep A/C fabric for primer and paint). I am pretty sure it uses isopropyl, but I would have to check on the label at the hangar.

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mike Dwyer
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2021 11:35 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] progress

 

Good info Jay,

I'm curious which Alcohol you did your test with.  Ethanol, Methanol, Propanol?

Thanks,

Mike Dwyer

 

Q200 Website: http://goo.gl/V8IrJF

 

 

On Sun, Jan 17, 2021 at 1:28 PM Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:

I know that acetone does, but I don’t think alcohol does. I have been using a product that is made by Aircraft Coatings Inc. called “wing wash” that is mostly alcohol and I tested it by putting a piece of blue foam in a jar full of the stuff for a month. The foam was no different when I took it out after that time.

 

If you are using a solvent that dissolves Styrofoam, you will need to be careful of pinholes. I did not want to worry about that, so I used something where I could literally pour it on and it would not matter.

 

Cheers,

Jay

 

From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mike Dwyer
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2021 11:12 AM
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] progress

 

Does Alcohol eat the blue/orange foam?  I know gas does but I'm not sure about all the different Alcohols.

Mike Dwyer

 

Q200 Website: http://goo.gl/V8IrJF

 

 

On Sun, Jan 17, 2021 at 11:36 AM Dorothea Keats <dkeats@...> wrote:

  Sam----------  Saw the video you made and am following that method ,
sort of.  As a homebuilder we modify the heck out of everything.

   I did the micro like you did although I thinned it with alcohol and
applied it much wetter than you. After sanding I am applying primer with
micro with a roller similar to your epoxi wipe.

  I like the charcoal Mike is suggesting , but has anyone ever tried
chalk for a chalk line?  Comes in blue and red and may do similar. I am
an old drywaller and we would add some chalk to drywall mud when you do
final patching so you can identify the spots you worked on.

  I sprayed the bottom lightly last night like Mike suggested. Sanded a
bit this morning and it worked great although I need to let it dry for
another day so as not to clog the paper.  I sand with 120 and 150. 
Works good in my application.

  I installed some more T nuts this morning in the firewall to hold my
oil cooler. Still can't get over how good an idea they are. Could of
used them thirty years ago. Also installed a plywood piece on the header
tank to allow for attaching a terminal block for various grounds.

  Still need to attach some points on the inner fuselage to allow for
attaching wiring and cables.

  Trying to think of everything, but i am bound to slip somewhere.  Take
care---------------  Chris


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One Sky Dog
 

Love Click- bonds but I do not like adhesive. Epoxies work well to hold them on. 


On Jan 17, 2021, at 10:32 AM, Jay Scheevel <jay@...> wrote:

Kevin is right. Almost all of my attachments/hard points are Click Bond
hardware. I do NOT recommend you buy their adhesive. It is very good stuff,
but it REALLY stinks for hours during and after the cure, and it has
virtually no shelf life. I quit using it, because I could not use it fast
enough before it dried up inside the packages and I had to clear out of the
shop if I bonded even one fastener. Instead I use the same surface prep, but
then use JB weld (4-minute type). It is the best. Only caveat on JB Weld is
that it does conduct electricity, so be sure not to bond exposed wires with
it. Don't ask me how I know.

I am sure Charlie Johnson will chime in. I learned about Click Bond from
him.

Cheers,
Jay

-----Original Message-----
From: main@Q-List.groups.io <main@Q-List.groups.io> On Behalf Of Kevin
Boddicker
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2021 10:10 AM
To: main@Q-List.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] progress

Chris,
Look into Click Bond. Neet stuff and made for attachment points in planes.
Kevin

On Jan 17, 2021, at 10:35 AM, Dorothea Keats <dkeats@...> wrote:

Sam----------  Saw the video you made and am following that method , sort
of.  As a homebuilder we modify the heck out of everything.

 I did the micro like you did although I thinned it with alcohol and
applied it much wetter than you. After sanding I am applying primer with
micro with a roller similar to your epoxi wipe.

I like the charcoal Mike is suggesting , but has anyone ever tried chalk
for a chalk line?  Comes in blue and red and may do similar. I am an old
drywaller and we would add some chalk to drywall mud when you do final
patching so you can identify the spots you worked on.

I sprayed the bottom lightly last night like Mike suggested. Sanded a bit
this morning and it worked great although I need to let it dry for another
day so as not to clog the paper.  I sand with 120 and 150.  Works good in my
application.

I installed some more T nuts this morning in the firewall to hold my oil
cooler. Still can't get over how good an idea they are. Could of used them
thirty years ago. Also installed a plywood piece on the header tank to allow
for attaching a terminal block for various grounds.

Still need to attach some points on the inner fuselage to allow for
attaching wiring and cables.

Trying to think of everything, but i am bound to slip somewhere.  Take
care---------------  Chris


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One Sky Dog
 

Alcohol will not dissolve styrofoam.


On Jan 17, 2021, at 11:12 AM, Mike Dwyer <q200pilot@...> wrote:


Does Alcohol eat the blue/orange foam?  I know gas does but I'm not sure about all the different Alcohols.
Mike Dwyer

Q200 Website: http://goo.gl/V8IrJF


On Sun, Jan 17, 2021 at 11:36 AM Dorothea Keats <dkeats@...> wrote:
  Sam----------  Saw the video you made and am following that method ,
sort of.  As a homebuilder we modify the heck out of everything.

   I did the micro like you did although I thinned it with alcohol and
applied it much wetter than you. After sanding I am applying primer with
micro with a roller similar to your epoxi wipe.

  I like the charcoal Mike is suggesting , but has anyone ever tried
chalk for a chalk line?  Comes in blue and red and may do similar. I am
an old drywaller and we would add some chalk to drywall mud when you do
final patching so you can identify the spots you worked on.

  I sprayed the bottom lightly last night like Mike suggested. Sanded a
bit this morning and it worked great although I need to let it dry for
another day so as not to clog the paper.  I sand with 120 and 150. 
Works good in my application.

  I installed some more T nuts this morning in the firewall to hold my
oil cooler. Still can't get over how good an idea they are. Could of
used them thirty years ago. Also installed a plywood piece on the header
tank to allow for attaching a terminal block for various grounds.

  Still need to attach some points on the inner fuselage to allow for
attaching wiring and cables.

  Trying to think of everything, but i am bound to slip somewhere.  Take
care---------------  Chris


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Bruce Crain
 

I used Denatured Alcohol.
Bruce


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Mike Dwyer " <q200pilot@...>
To: main@q-list.groups.io
Subject: Re: [Q-List] progress
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2021 13:11:50 -0500

Does Alcohol eat the blue/orange foam?  I know gas does but I'm not sure about all the different Alcohols.
Mike Dwyer
 
Q200 Website: http://goo.gl/V8IrJF

 

On Sun, Jan 17, 2021 at 11:36 AM Dorothea Keats <dkeats@...> wrote:
  Sam----------  Saw the video you made and am following that method ,
sort of.  As a homebuilder we modify the heck out of everything.

   I did the micro like you did although I thinned it with alcohol and
applied it much wetter than you. After sanding I am applying primer with
micro with a roller similar to your epoxi wipe.

  I like the charcoal Mike is suggesting , but has anyone ever tried
chalk for a chalk line?  Comes in blue and red and may do similar. I am
an old drywaller and we would add some chalk to drywall mud when you do
final patching so you can identify the spots you worked on.

  I sprayed the bottom lightly last night like Mike suggested. Sanded a
bit this morning and it worked great although I need to let it dry for
another day so as not to clog the paper.  I sand with 120 and 150. 
Works good in my application.

  I installed some more T nuts this morning in the firewall to hold my
oil cooler. Still can't get over how good an idea they are. Could of
used them thirty years ago. Also installed a plywood piece on the header
tank to allow for attaching a terminal block for various grounds.

  Still need to attach some points on the inner fuselage to allow for
attaching wiring and cables.

  Trying to think of everything, but i am bound to slip somewhere.  Take
care---------------  Chris


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Mike Steinsland
 

Sure like that video Sam and I like the presentation, you're a skilled communicator.
Judging from the reflection on the wing you got that pretty straight.

I've always been open to new ways of doing things, particularly while I was working on high level show cars over the years. I've learned there's always another way to skin a cat and you don't progress and increase your craftsmanship if you stay in the same mindset.
I'm going to give your method a try when the time comes to do the finishing work. I'll let you guys know what the differences are.
In the mean-time I've attached a picture of a reflection in the door of one of the many paint jobs I've done over the years.

I really enjoyed that video. It was very informative. Thanks for taking the time to do that.


On Sun, Jan 17, 2021 at 7:33 AM Sam Hoskins <sam.hoskins@...> wrote:
I hope you guys have seen my epoxy wipe video. Probably too late in your stage, but it really works well and eliminates a lot of pain. Here it is. 

On Sat, Jan 16, 2021, 9:24 PM Mike Steinsland <MIKESKUSTOMS@...> wrote:

On Sat, Jan 16, 2021 at 10:13 PM Mike Steinsland <mikeskustoms@...> wrote:
I usually start with a coarser paper, 80 - 120 just to take the "crust" off then hit it with a guide coat again and progressively move up to a finer paper.
If you go through the primer STOP (unless it's your filler)

3M makes a charcoal guide coat that I have used for years.
Here's an amazon link but you should be able to get it through your local jobber a lot cheaper


You put it on with a sponge like applicator (it's part of the the lid top)  You don't have to put it on heavy, a very light coat will give you all the contrast you need.
1 container will easily do your airplane

Nice thing with this is you don't get stinky paint fumes and overspray

On Sat, Jan 16, 2021 at 8:21 PM Dorothea Keats <dkeats@...> wrote:
  Good tip Mike.  I use a two foot board mostly and a sanding block
along with a trouble light to look for lows and highs. I'll give the
light misting of black paint a try.  I put the primmer on with a roller
. I  have premarked  with a pencil any low spots I can feel with my
hand. The prime I use I have mixed with micro so I lay it on thick in
the low spots. Board sand it later. Your suggestion will make it all
that much better.   Take care---------------  Chris


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